Firstly I am a self confessed weight weenie, Its very unusual I come in contact with someone with lighter bikes than mine. Sounds like ‘willy waving’ but I do spend a lot of money, I like nice things and can afford them (at the moment). I mostly ride normal trails so I don’t need a long travel bike. A lightweight bike suits me (I weigh less than 12 Stone wet) and suits the terrain I ride.
So the question is, is it necessary? In my view, for me Yes. I ride faster on light bikes and as I’m a bit competitive by virtue I enjoy it more. Its always a good feeling beating your pal up a hill even though you havent been on a bike for 2 weeks and they train every day.
Its all about FEEL GOOD factor, if you feel good on a light bike then you need one…you will be faster, that will make you feel good and on and on it goes.

I too have done this (twice).
Modern Diesels, its the kiss of death due to common rail technology and higher pressures.

Older engines like the one you are talking about will be fine.
In fact my one has run smoother and had more power ever since.

Now Im Stoked.!

A code red.!

WFT?

Then again if its a code I spoze only those in the know..know.

Im not sure on any of them.

Probably playing to the crowd but agree the RAD STOKED bit does get on your nerves. Then again I dont suppose they (or their sponsors) are trying to play to the likes of me and most of STW. Its the kids that they target and Im sure they love em.!
If I where their sponsors I would be signing them for as long as I could afford to.
I will reserve judgement until one of them buys me a beer.

Is it me though or is there something about Rach?

CORRECT.

Cards on the table.
I changed my front ones for Hope ones a while ago for exactly these reasons. It was easy for me as has 160mm hope ones front and back on other bikes so just had a swap around.

Sorry, I should have said but didn’t want to put the frightners-up people running them already. I can’t see an issue with running them the conventional way but for me it was no hassle to change them so I did. As Dave said I really didn’t want any question marks over my front brakes.

Yep,
FITTED WRONG WAY ROUND.

Arrow indicates correct way but it is in fact wrong.

Exactly the problem with these rotors. As I said above there are literally hundreds out there installed like that.
Ashima have corrected the mistake now but that doesn’t help the poor folk that are riding a bike with the old ones totally oblivious to the pending catastrophe.

Hi all,
I have seen a few catastrophic failures with these rotors. ALL where fitted the wrong way. Why would anybody fit a rotor around the wrong way?
Early ones had the etching on the wrong side, making the arrow face the wrong way. The situation is even worse as after a while the etching wears-off, so you have no way of proving anything if a failure was to happen.
It amazes me a company can get away with something like that, had that been a company in the ‘developed world’ I’m sure they would no longer be trading, Harsh I know, but probably true.
Its a shame, Ashima make some really good lightweight products. I tried to contact them via email with no success on several occasions. The website has no mention of the issue. Very poor in my view.
I have lost count of the number of riders I have seen with these rotors fitted incorrectly. Saw a picture some time ago of one of the Specialized Team riders with a similar looking rotor fitted the wrong way.
Someone is really going to get hurt by one of these.

I had this exact same problem when I changed my 2007 SID’s for 2011 ones.
I had XTR brakes IS mounted to the original SID with 160mm rotor. When I got the new forks they had post mount, so calliper wouldn’t fit.

I bought the Giant converter as suggested above but it wouldn’t go around the calliper. Tried the KCNC Red one s well but same problem, carefully ground some metal away but calliper was only sweeping about half the pad.

Contacted Shimano who said the easiest way it can be done is by going to 180mm rotor. On a lightweight XC race bike I didn’t fancy that, they then said Shimano do a converter and 170mm rotor as a kit which would do the job. Didn’t fancy that either as expensive and Ctr lock only.
In the end I bit the bullet and bought a post mount calliper, it fits directly with no spacers and was lighter as well.!

Hope that helps.

If you have deep pockets Scott Scale.

If you dont On-One Whippet.

Light bikes (sub 20 pounds) ride fast its up to you to stay on the bike and off the brakes.

You will need the skills to match either otherwize you WILL hurt yourself.

Any decent bike frame can fail regardless of material.

I have the exact car you are considering, You get what you pay for. Its not a VW or Audi but then again you will fork out another 2+K for an alternative ‘quality’ brand.
My one is good, Not great just good. If it was a bike I would hate it, but its not its just a car and quality is lower than function and price on my car list these days.

To summarise if your a car person don’t buy it, you will hate it after a while. If you want to get from A to B in comfort at minimum cost you really cant go wrong.

”Im going to take that bat, shove it up your ass and turn you into a popsicle”.

THE WORRIORS.

One word ”consistance”.

Have been a Manager for 10 years myself and made all the mistakes and then some.
The one thing I have learnt is to be consistent.
As soon as you loose that people will spot it and standards will slip, if you want a report or something by Thursday make it clear that there is no adjustment. Come down hard if you dont get it. Slip once and everybody will know Thursay means Friday.
Lastly, dont say ”I want that by Thursday” Say ”Can you get that to me by Thursday”. If they agree and you dont get it they have let you down on what they promissed not what you asked for.

Nailed-it. (As in We Nailed-it)

Hammered. (As In we hammered down there)

Unless you are builder or a carpenter you cannot use these words.

Go Figure.!

I have these on both of my XC bikes (160F 140R). Yes they are light, yes pad wear is slightly increased. I don’t really notice the pulsing, stopping power is fine but BEWARE.! I have heard a few catastrophic failures, Im sure someone will post up a picture of one bent-up before long. Apparently, the older ones are the ones that failed and according to Ashima they have been modified (I have old and new). The only difference I can see is the printed direction of rotation arrow now goes the other way.

If you need to know what is old and what is new I can check tonight. Let me know.

I bought a pair of SSC wheels about a year ago, Superleggra TI rear hub CX Ray spokes, cant remember what the front hub is called. Both had Alloy nipples and DT 350 Rims. I have mixed feelings, firstly at 1425 Grams they were not as light as I had expected. Build was not good, one of the spokes had been inserted from the wrong side of the hub flange and had an awfull dog kink in it as a result. The spoke tension was very loose and got worse with rinding, I ended-up truing them myself. The rear hub has not slipped but is noisey, not in the same click-click-click as Hope but more a ‘Bumble bee type buz’. I have had people comment on the noise several times, Grease will probably quiten it down. The bearings are now gone in the rear hub, I emailed SSC and asked for the sizes, So I could get some before stripping down, they sent me a good instructional ‘HOW TO OVERHAUL REAR HUB’ but no bearing size listed.
So all in all, would I recommend?
If your reasonably handy in the workshop YES.
If you want a Fit and Forget Wheelset NO.

Hope that is of some use.

LUNGE.
You make some good points.

A few observations after reading the posts above.

Some people on here clearly are not happy but don’t really seem to know why.
Lots of ‘sniping’ at other STW posters.
Lots of unrest in general amongst posters, not the usual my bike is better than yours stuff, more vicious.
This is war on anybody who’s opinion is not liked or agreed with.
People on here seem to want to engage just for the sake of it.
Bit like what’s happening out there.

I have a garage full of tyres, must have 25-30 pairs, I have tried them all. I have in the past spoken for hrs on the great tyre debate. I have come to an expensive conclusion, ITS ALL IN THE HEAD.
I was once using a certain tyre, Conti Mountain kings I think and getting along just fine, a riding pal said in passing they are great tyres but the front washes out for no reason, even a low speeds. The next thing I know my front (seemed) to be washing at the slightest provication, I litrally couldnt stay on.
I learnt a lot that day, it really is all in the head.
Well maybe not all but alot.

I now use Spesh Fast Track until they die and have no plans to change any time soon.

Anyone else sent a message to the seller?

These people come over all innocent but someone will get at the very least stitched-up.
At the worst after reading oldgits post they could get seriously hurt.

Should I report it to Ebay, is it worth it? Will they do anything?

Looking a little closer is the Fork even a Reba?

Little update:
I sent a message to the seller
He’s saying he bought the bike complete as it is from Evans in 2005.

Blimey, I have learnt something here. I never knew there was an industry out there making fake bike parts. Trainers and Watches yes but bike frames.!

Someone could get seriously hurt here and wouldnt have a leg to stand on (so to speak).

Makes you wonder how many ‘better’ copies slip through without anybody cottoning-on.

I suppose there is money to be made and thats all some people care about.
I hope Specialized are doing their bit on this sort of thing, just with a few messages and a bit of collective knowkledge we have sussed it out. Manufacturers should have people dedicated to just this srort of thing.

Im going to send the seller a message, you never know he may be totally unaware.
I will post the reply if I get one.

Yep, thought so and you guys have confirmed.
Great photo B.A.Nana. those ones are identical, same stickers, drop-outs etc. So are they out-and-out rip-offs then?

I will get my barge pole out.

Should I message the seller and let him know?

I googled images too and it just doesnt look right. Think It may be best to stay well away then. Shame as it looks like its in great cond for its vintage. Strange mix of parts though.

I have always fancied one of these M5 alloy frames but this one just doesnt look right, especially the drop-outs and decals.
Just needed a few opinions before bidding.