I wanted to do this on my 11 speed XT mech, but couldn’t get the bolt out. What tool to remove theclip please?

If you were going to fit it in the future, may as well get it done, if you have it, you will use it.

I have the carbon version, got it in September and I’m still really enjoying it. Mine has a 150mm fox 36 and a -2 degree angleset. It plods uphill as well as anything else I’ve owned, but don’t expect an XC bike.

I had a similar issue, tried every kind of lubricant, scoured the internet… I used an old 31.8 stem, probably a hundred mm length, attached it to the exposed section of the dropper and tapped the stem with a mallet. Obviously this won’t work if there is no post exposed.

Loads of great suggestions, unfortunately not much you can actually buy at present.

Thanks all.

Thanks I will have a look.

It really depends on what discipline it’s to be used for?! As others have said, it isn’t suitable to leave them outside and you don’t want to keep hanging them up/taking them down. My Fairtex uppercut bag weighs over 60kg and is awkward as hell to hang up, so I never take it down. Depending on how hard it’s going to be hit a standing bag may be the best bet, far easier to manhandle into a corner when not in use.

RRP Proguard has much better clearance than the mudhugger, even after doing the boiling water tricks it would still rub with a 2.6 Magic Mary on a 29er boost lyrik.

Fair play to Fury for getting up twice and for some great moments, but some of the head holding got a bit much.

I have both and would say they are both worth having, but the EDC is cheaper and slightly better.

Have a go at barbell hack squats, they are like a hybrid squat/deadlift similar to trap bar deadlifts and put far less strain on your lower back.

180cm on large here, long legs and short body, feels just right. If pushed I could size up, but wouldn’t want to size down.

Down, at full extension my saddle is up in the clouds!

Sounds great ta11pau1, mine probably wont be ready until March, so missing the boat a bit myself. There is a good chance whatever I get will just be a nice hardtail that get’s winterised when the trails get soggy.

The Scandal keeps catching my eye and some trails would be amazing on it, but some would be downright scary.

Octane looks pretty good, head angle a little steep for my taste and the tyre clearance is tight.

Currently running a 2.6 Mary front with 2.4 SG Betty rear, so I’m sure a lighter rear tyre will make things more sprightly, I also prefer reasonably LLS geometry, quite tempted to get another Transmitter, but reduce the fork to 130mm. Always run a decent front mudguard, but can’t be putting one on the rear.

Think I’ve made up my mind to have front suspension, an alloy frame probably makes more sense, but I am finding myself drawn to steel. So I’m thinking 2.3 shorty on the front, but what rear tyre?

I did the steep and natural course from the main centre, half day jumps and drops, big lunch, then trail ride on the ‘steep and natural’ stuff, followed by coffee and the biggest piece of cake I’ve ever eaten. It was a good day and pretty good value, I rode a few things I wouldn’t have otherwise had the bottle for.

I’ve enjoyed singlespeed in the past, but I would end up walking half the time through lack of traction.

benman, it’s not just about sparing the full suss, it’s about the way the bike rides. Some of the short hills I ride are quickest standing up, which works well on a hardtail, even locking out the shock on the full suss just isn’t the same, also I want less travel and ideally less weight and more mud specific tyres.

CX bike would be pushing it a bit far for me, I’m terrified of any bike without a dropper! It would mainly be riding places like Woburn and Rushmere, but also the Downs by my house. I’ve had and enjoyed a Sonder Transmitter and a Bird Zero TR, but I’m fairly set on 29 only now, so the zero 29 is a definite contender.

My home gym is an 8 x 12 ft summer house, I’ve used that silver bubble wrap on the walls and polystyrene panels in the roof, the floor has those knobbly rubber horse mats. There is a vent at either end and I use a little fan heater periodically through my workout (resistance training only.)I’ve been using the gym like this for nearly six years and there is no rust on any of my dumbells/barbells, it get’s warm in the summer, but not unusable.

I have both, the only exercise I prefer on TRX is hamstring curls, otherwise rings all the way.

Strange about the Sonder page, maybe it’s owners only?! So if you do a lot of miles the Cortex is really good, on rougher terrain I found the Rockshox shock a little wooden and harsh, probably down to the tune and factory fitted bands. Moving to the Cane Creek Inline it was much more forgiving with better grip. The Evol feels good with the standard shock, probably as much to do with the tune as the extra 20mm of travel. It has a pretty low seat tube, so you can easily size up if you want, but with my long legs and short body at 5’11” size large was just right for me. The Cortex was a lot of fun and great for powering up small climbs, but as I currently only have one bike I prefer having the extra travel on the Evol. Sonder is a great company to deal with, I’m on my third and likely to get a signal in spring. Bird is also a great company and I wouldn’t hesitate to buy another. Any specific Sonder questions feel free to pm me.

I’ve had and enjoyed a Cortex, really capable for the travel and now have an Evol which I’m really enjoying, for me the geometry is spot on, pedals well, quiet, jumps well and has good tyre clearance. What it lacks is some nice dry trails to ride it on, so right now I would love a signal st.

The Nukeproof ones are great if you can find some.

Tracey, I was very much in the no harm in a bit of grit club, then I got gastric flu, but nobody else did. Can only think it was from the muck on my bottle.

The damper is likely the main cause, but removing any tokens might help.

Did you try without tokens? I’m around 92kg, 110 psi, no tokens, 1 click of low speed and feels great, doesn’t use all of the travel, but close enough.

Always wear knee pads, rarely notice them now.

CRC is a joke, the Nukeproof Blackline jacket I was looking at last week for £72 jumped up to £120 and the DHB top I considered at £55 has jumped up to £75! Black Friday my arse.

Personally I would remove the tokens and add pressure, the fork sits higher in the travel and gives better small bump sensitivity, there is a good push industries podcast about this, as said above too much sag and you are spending most of the time in the firmer part of the stroke.

doomanic, hence why I’m wearing XL rather than L, also for length. I’ve only worn them twice, but both on wet rides with plenty of puddles, no issue with a wet bum, but not sure how hard wearing they will be.

bungalistic, the Nukeproof are a better fit as they are more adjustable, probably run a little warmer and also harder wearing. At the reduced price I would definitely go Nukeproof, but at RRP the Decathlon’s are half the price and well worth a punt.

Yep, that’s the ones I was referring to.

Not too sweaty, maybe slightly warmer than shorts, I have size XL, they are a little loose on the waist, but I good fit everywhere else, I’m usually 34 waist. Also have Nukeproof Blackline in size large.

I was there last week, a fair bit is still rideable, but also really boggy in places, a short travel hardtail would be perfect at the moment. There are some nice jumps and a drop at Rushmere, in the main they are XC trails, but to describe them as family trails is definitely down playing them, although sadly many of the better sections are now kapoot.

One ride in on my Nukeproof Blacklines and really pleased, very comfortable, slim fit, but not too tight on my big legs, room for pads, but don’t flap around. Coped well with spray and mud seems to fall off of them. They size up quite big, Nukeproof size large is similar to Decathlon AM’s in XL.