XT levers and MT5 calipers here which do not behave as you describe. I think you have air in the system and need to bleed again. The bleed is a bit of a faff as described above, you have to work hard to get all those bubbles out!

The disc thickness means nothing as the pads will auto adjust on the first couple of lever pulls anyway.

Slight hijack as I’m also looking for my daughter… @pdw how much would you want for the Hellion

TheBrick: My old rear wheel is currently an m525/Mavic 321 32 spoke on which 2 spokes are broken. Holding true despite that amazingly. I need to buy a new wheelset so will get something more tandem suitable like 36 spokes.

tandemwarriors: That’s similar to what we would do but it was still fairly clunky.

Still pondering on whether to get the front mech fixed, I guess they’re cheap now that no one wants them!

I think I’ve only ever used the 22 tooth once, attempting to cycle up a yorkshire dale, it was ridiculous though and we were faster walking at that point. Balancing a tandem at super slow speed is not easy!

Trouble is front shifting really sucks on a tandem, would be nice to get rid, haven’t really missed the range while running enforced 1×9 but the chainline is really bad in the upper range of the cassette.

Weight is an absolute non-issue! More concerned with durability, 11sp stuff is a good deal more expensive especially at the rate things wear out. Hopefully with regular enough chain replacement it wouldn’t be too bad.

Cheers Conkers, I’ll give “Method 1” a go tonight.

Because the service cost is a significant proportion of a brand new one with warranty. If this is a design flaw then how long can I expect it to last until it happens again?

I’ve bled it and pumped it up to 250 but that didn’t help at all with the vertical movement.

Wow nice, maybe I should try that first..

Is this DIYable?

Had a call back to say that they’d had a discussion about it, and now will pay out. Good news! Moral is: just keep on arguing I guess.

I’m trying to argue exactly that, the case has been referred to an “expert” who will call back tomorrow. Their argument was that once a part is removed from a bike, it becomes an accessory. It’s nonsense imo.

Blazin-saddles: its good to hear you managed to argue the case, gives me hope!

I’m in the middle of an insurance claim regarding bike parts (http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/bike-parts-not-covered-by-insurance?replies=1#post-5991772) and they are saying they are not covered. It would be interesting to see what your insurance company say about those parts that were not attached to a bike.

It’s a 9speed mech, and the hanger appears to be straight.

You could be on to something there. This is on a Deore hub that is fairly old and has only been used on a standard bike (so half the power).

Ah I knew I’d missed something. The chainrings are also brand new deore rings. As far as I can tell its the cassette where the skipping is happening, although it’s more difficult to tell when I’m way up front. It is also equally a problem no matter which front chainring is used.

Yes they will work just fine on Avid discs and indeed adapters, I’m doing exactly that with these brakes. They are a bargain!

And again!

Bump, anyone interested?

Ha I just came on STW to see if anyone wanted to share a car up there, so you’re if you’re willing to get to Bristol I’ll take you.

Email me on my profile addy if you’re interested.

Yeah the puller was in all but the very last part of the thread so theres basically none of it left now! I’ll try some of these tips, thanks!

Be useful if you could post up the results of that email convo in this thread for other Remedy owners!

If you don’t post pics [or at least a link to them], no I won’t email or text you for them

Seriously, it’s so easy to upload photos these days. Easier than emailing a photo.

Specialized Demo 8 has 8 inches of travel, the Demo 9 of yesteryear had 9 inches of travel. The Santa Cruz V10 has 10 inches of travel. The Transition TR450 has 450 inches of travel.

I suggest asking Superstar and/or giving us the model number for the headset.

The SL4 looks significantly better specced, I’d go for that.

The top guide of my LG1+ snapped off while I was in France and the chain started coming off all the bloody time. Granted the trails were a lot faster and bumpier than normal UK trails but it was really really annoying.

Turns out it’s seized solid, the stiffness was the plastic bearing cover moving against the bearing. The bearings themselves look shiny and new (being 2 weeks old, I’d expect them too!) and have loads of grease on them. Even trying to force them to move they won’t budge. Have I got any chance of getting them replaced by the shop?

Preload was only done up with a little twiddle tool, it’s not like I cranked it on. Also I’ve been using the same tightness on the old bottom bracket for years with no ill effects.

A little rain, but nothing compared to one wet ride back here.

I have a renthal 32t chainring on SLX triple cranks and find that normal chainring bolts are just a tiny bit too long (probably less than 0.1mm too long), so they don’t do up tight against the chainring. Instead they bind to themselves and eventually rattle loose.

IMO it’s the second best thing to spend money on biking after Jedi training 😀

Meta has a fairly low BB to start with, offset bushings might not be viable. I remember a 1 1/8th offset headset being developed by Cane Creek, not sure if it’s out yet but that might be worth a look.

I think a loud alarm is probably the best thing you could fit, followed by the biggest chain and lock you can afford.

I went from an all SLX 22/36 double & bash, front mech, front shifter and DRS chain device to a single 32t and an E13 LG1+ and saved 400g/0.9 lbs. Pretty significant!

Oh, and so far I haven’t missed having a granny ring at all.

Amazing fun to drive, and as has already been said, it corners fantastically! You need to rev it but thats part of the fun. The LSD means that even if you do lose teh back end it is ridiculously easy to control. It’s a great car if you forget about the fuel economy and drive it hard.

I’d definitely try a soft. I’m 68ish kg and use an extra soft for about 25% sag.

I use a BB mounted LG1+ on my 09 Remedy and it’s great! Really easy to setup and the chain is going nowhere.

I’m using a BB mounted LG1+, nice and lightweight if you need a bash of some kind and about as secure as you can get.

2.1 High Rollers are rubbish, you should use the 2.35s.