Sag = air past the IFP = not related to regular servicing. (Think of it as a damper service in a shock/forks vs a lowers/wiper seal service).

I warrantied mine last month for the same issue. They fix them now rather than replacing, took 1.5 weeks all in.

Having built about 10 of my own now, my advice would be to use DT swiss rims with their Squorx nipples and the Squorx driver tool, they are an absolute pleasure to build compared to using a spoke key!

I’ve never ran my T130 at 130mm, upped it to 140 on day one. I have the boost Pike from my bike in the ‘must get around to selling’ pile if you are interested? I’ve got both 130 and 140mm travel springs.

You never see Whyte parts listed anywhere, but a Whyte dealer should be able to order you one in I’d have thought. They are able to get the cable grommets and other various bits I’ve asked about previously.

Alternatively, you could try this: https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/frames-forks-c6/frame-fork-spares-c152/remedy-29-2014-carbon-armour-kit-p12605

I know the Transition boys use them on both carbon and alloy frames, should fit pretty much anything…

In the meantime here’s yet another T130 picture… This time at the top of Win Hill in the Peak District (Ladybower in the background)

https://www.whyte.bike/dealer-locator

Any blue logos on there are supposed to be a test center.

Mojo will set it up for you and your bike inclusive of the purchase price so I understand.

Possibly the pressure and knob settings but I can’t see them spending a few hours pulling the damper apart and rebuilding it for free?

I’m also interested in one, but it is slightly annoying that they only offer it in one default tune for all, especially at the asking price! I’d need to budget extra for a suitable retune on the non-adjustable HSC shim stack straight away.

Whytes are pretty solid so you might be ok, you would just need to check on the clamping forces on the tube for your seat. Maybe ask ATB (the distributor)…

The owners manual states:

Maximum Weight Limit for Whyte G-160, T-130-C, T-130 & T-129: 18st. / 114kg (including rider’s luggage) LINK

The Ohlins coil is only in 29er for now.

2017 Marzocchi 350NCR ti is 170mm, and coil should be the better option for Alps, but a Fox 36 should be stiffer with 20mm axle and 36mm stanchions. Coil upgrade also available from Push and 170 or 180mm options, plus a lower A2C than the MArzocchi or Lyrik so less impact on geometry.

They definitely need to work on the marketing behind the Saturday/Sunday events. Lots of people riding the Saturday race who should really be on Sunday one, and I suspect vice versa too.

Despite the wide openness of the terrain I didn’t think it was that easy to overtake as in general the speed was quite high. It is much easier to pass people on slower technical more twisty stuff..

I did practice with a 2.3 DHR2 up front and 2.3 HR2 rear (both 3c EXO), then put 3 holes in the HR2 practicing stage 2.

For the race I stuck with the DHR2 up front (24psi) and a Minion SS Exo (25psi) on the back. 3 scoops of Stans race sealant in each. First ever experience on a semi-slick was dropping in to stage 1 on race day, slightly nerve wracking as stage 1 had the most loose corners of the day, but it was a great tyre! No punctures all day, despite one big rim impact on stage 6, but I have spotted a few cuts on the sidewall.

I’d definitely recommend double down casing on the rear!

Racal, yes I do have a T130, raced it at Ard Rock on Saturday and brought it home in 48th/450 in masters.

One of my friends has an XL T130 and I actually think I could ride it OK with a short stem at 5’10”, but I’ve only had a quick spin on it.

First time at Ard Rock, finish time of 20:07, mostly racing blind as you could only practice stages 1,2 and 6 which is a bit odd! Thoroughly enjoyed it, hope the rider who went off in the air ambulance was ok, we had an hours wait at the top of stage 2 while the rerouted around a bog that caused the accident.

I think you are on the line between L and XL at 6′ – personal preference could swing it either way. Having the short seat tube means you choose the size by reach rather than seat tube length.

my money is on wet

http://www.mylocalweather.org.uk/swaledale/

That forecast says dry Fri/Sat/Sun, as does every other forecast I have seen!

bacondoublechee – can you link me to the mounting hardward required for the CC Inline pls?

CCDB Inline uses standard size bushes, so you can re-use the originals. I have Burgtec titanium ones in mine. I am also testing a Burgtec offset rear mount in mine at 90 degrees to drop the shock lower from the top tube for a little more clearance, as I didn’t want to take any more material off the shock. It seems to be holding position so far!

SRAM warrantied my OEM Monarch RT3 (had a knock inside, found some broken bits on the compression adjust mechanism inside) and yesterday I got sent back a brand new Monarch Plus instead! But in MM tune which will feel permanently locked out on a T130… So i’ve got to pull apart a brand new shock to put it right!

ML tune is compression force 80lbs, ML3 is compression force 60lbs. Not entirely sure how they measure it!

Basically ML3 is the lowest compression damping model as the T130 has a low leverage ratio.

Yep, I did that on mine. I need to advertise my 130/140mm Pikes that came with the bike, but they are boost so not what you were after.

The right tune is ML3, but you will struggle to get a Monarch Plus ready built in that tune. I bought an ML, and tried it like that but felt it was a bit over damped on compression for me. I tried pulling shims here and there but in the end bought a Rockshox ML3 tune assembly (basically the main piston with a different shim stack) from Germany and fitted that. I really liked it for the time it worked, but my shock needs a new piggyback after tweedlove weekend, so currently out of action.

I took my T130 to BPW in standard guise (140 Pikes and Monarch RT3) and didn’t find it much fun, very choppy, lots of arm pump (I also took my Yeti SB66c with 36s and Fox X2 which handled the hardpack bikepark stuff way better). But then I have friends who like Pikes on that kind of terrain. Morzine would be pretty similar to BPW I think.

I would like to see if the 36s on the T130 have made it mode BPW friendly (I suspect they have), but haven’t been back since (to be honest I prefer riding natural trails in the woods more anyway, which also don’t pummel you as much).

At the end of the day the geometry is great, and forks ride the same whatever bike they are on – if you like Pikes then yo’ll be fine. I prefer 36s so switched to them. The rear end is great with the Monarch Plus ML3, the standard RT3 is fine too.

just not sure if I have the skills to get the best out of one

They are pretty easy to ride, the only place I had to adjust was on the very steep chutes with corners (Golfie, Wrekin etc) I kept washing the front out. The long front centre and short chain stays require you to really get over the front when it is steep in order to weight the tyre, much more so than other bikes I have owned.

It isn’t a bad thing at all, just a skill to learn, and only really stands out on the steep stuff, but useful everywhere to get the most grip and balance out of the bike.

Bacon, how did the forks/shock change the handling of the bike?

The 36s are shorter axle to crown than pikes so no real geometry difference from the 140mm Pikes I ran before (put them to 140 the day I got the bike so never actually ridden it at 130). You just get the usual 36 benefits of stiffness and ability at ploughing through high speed chop.

On the rear my favourite shock is probably the Monarch Plus with an ML3 tune kit fitted. It felt great but in true monarch fashion was toast after a weekend at the tweedlove international. The CCDB inline is good but not as supple, however I haven’t really spent the required hours of back to back runs setting it up, and it was second hand so a service would probably do wonders. I wouldn’t recommend the ccdb due to the fit issue though.

Morphio – snap! I did the Brecon Gap on mine in Feb (couldn’t resist going up the windy stone path on the right of your picture for an extra bash down!)

I’d be very interested to see if the DB inline coil fits, tried quite a few shocks on mine, Float X and X2 doesn’t fit, even my CCDB inline air needed to say hello to the bench grinder (luckily just the replaceable retaining ring)

All I’ve changed on mine is the tyres, and bars/stem/ grips etc..

The only things original on mine (other than the frame) is the reverb (which has started to sag a bit) the saddle (which has started to split on one side) and the bars/stem (I have been eyeing up carbon replacements but can’t decide which yet!)

Any more T130 owners about?

Ok, I will consider myself told! During my research I saw countless cracked alloy ones (some people had 4 or more replacements) but I never saw a cracked carbon one on MTBR (must not have looked hard enough!)

No crconception style protective film sheet either to allow switching back to air.

P.S. Get your frame bearings from here for £65 (probably cheaper for a full frame bearing set than most other bikes!): http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/bearings/mtb/frame-bearing-kits/yeti/sb66-carbon?

They are Enduro Max as per Yeti’s spec.

Advice given higher up in the thread is wrong – the alloy rear triangles are very prone to cracking on the chainstay. The carbon ones are fine.

My SB66c was a great bike at descending. Great fun and very fast! I was sad to see it go.

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/whyte-s-150-carbon-rs-review.html

Sounds like Whyte may be on to a winner with this one…

I see your point regarding flow vs pressure (a pressure washer uses a lot less water than a hose), but a) more pressure is worse for seals and b) any less flow than a normal 17l mobi/other and you will be there for hours.

It might work OK with a second 5l water bottle on standby to refill.

I see your point regarding flow vs pressure (a pressure washer uses a lot less water than a hose), but a) more pressure is worse for seals and b) any less flow than a normal 17l mobi/other and you will be there for hours.

It might work OK with a second 5l water bottle on standby to refill.

I have a VGC 26″ DHF DH maxxgrip surplus to requirements if you are interested…

Did your feet slide of the front or back of the pedals? Or did the bike drop away from your feet?

As above, stick to the waymarked dog/monkey/stile cop DH runs. The off piste is fun but difficult to navigate on a set timescale and you will come out of it looking like you’ve had a fight with a bear at the moment.

I see you push the saddle all the way forward too. I wonder if they should have made the seat angle a little steeper…

2/10 for effort on this SC… I would hazard a guess that the rear triangle is also mostly the same just with an updated brake mount (which will magically appear on the regular hightower soon…). The lack of plus compatibility could just be a side effect of longer shock stroke and tyre clearance at bottom out.

Bony’s steakhouse is a good alternative. It’s at the foot of the access road to the trails (15 seconds away form the wigwams) and only £25 a night with a great breakfast if you have 3 in a room.

I’ve stayed there a couple of times and would recommend it.