Thanks everyone. Semi slicks it is. Now to spend 2 hours effing and jeffing in the garage after swapping them over and they inevitably don’t seal 🙂

Yeo valley were offering reusable lids online recently. A bit more durable than the normal ones.

Frigging autocorrect 😀

I used Coldplay on my drive kerb. The transition from road to kerb had a very abrupt dip and then a steep dropped kerb. Wasn’t doing my suspension any good. I laid a couple of bags of Coldplay and then rolled with my garden roller. Sealed with a spray can. Still going after a couple of years.

It is only about 4 inches deep probably. 1 foot wide, 10ft wide ish

Hurt my knee last may. Made it worse in August. Rear medial radial meniscus tear diagnosed in November. Can cycle ok, have just started to run again, 30s at a time. But sometimes even walking is painful. Really p!SSI g me off now.
Any twisting motion is very painful.
Any tips for improving that?

Thanks for the replies. I’ll try and speak to Ribble (couldn’t get through earlier) and see what they say.

I would say NBs are for wide feet. Certainly the 1080s are wider than my Pegasus.

I’ve got the nb 1080s.
There is a seam the runs up your arch. Hard to notice when you try them on but after a few miles starts to cause blisters. So would not recommend. Google it to see what I mean.
I tried the ghost in the shop too. Were a bit narrow in the toe box but otherwise seemed fine.

My road bike was previously owned by Mark Webber (the racing driver)
An Avanti Corsa.

Thanks peeps. Not sorted it though. Time to call out a man i think.

My sister has cats… Now I am worried.

My youngest has shingles at the mo…

I can see a theme to these replies…
I should have said I’ve got the ball rolling with the docs. I’ve had a blood test at a walk-in and am waiting to see my doc to see what he wants to do.

I’m pretty fit (I do XC races and am a reasonably good runner) and in my 40s. Never had anything like this before.
I do press ups every day. I’ll give those up to see if that helps. Though I’ve been doing them for months.

True, but it takes weeks to get a referral to someone who can do full tests.
So in the mean time I was wondering if others had had similar to give me a clue what it might be.

Seems popular in the Midlands and Poland apparently!
There’s a track near me in Coventry that sees a fair few races.

This happened to my bro about 25yrs ago.
The joint between stay and guard failed. Stay dropped, jammed on tyre.
Stay was flipped up by rotating tyre then jammed again near top of fork. This time it locked front wheel. He went straight over bars. Off to hospital minus front teeth. Very poor design. No sticks involved!

Thanks for the info chaps.
I think I’ll just follow kbrembos advice and see some sights.

A lot of manuals have synchro on reverse these days. So this may have. Simplest way to find out is to try and engage rev while rolling slowly fwd. any grating noise means it is crash engagement, silence means synchromesh.
I had a similar prob a few years back. Oil change sorted it.

Thanks for the tips. Cat piss describes it quite nicely(?)
I’ll try the freezer thing 1st. Failing that Halo next.
Maybe pouring neat bleach into them could work. Can bleach damage the materials or glue?

I fitted by Sub 5 on the turbo a couple of times then noticed the amount of flex even though it was a steady session. Took it off sharpish.
As is fairly obvious the loads through the frame are much higher than normal. Not a good idea I’d say.

Poppa. mrmo means harder to steer turn not rotate turn. THe gyroscopic effects will be larger on a larger wheel when you turn the handle bars.
Whether this is noticeable or not is another matter…
Interesting about the 5% difference required to be perceptable. If you’re racing that’s a big difference. Even allowing for air resistance being the bigger factor that would lose you a lot of time in a race. Hmmmmmmm

((1.43×10^22)/(2.6×10^25))x1,000,000

Unless I’m missing something the 9 speed mech will be fine. The shifter defines the increments the mech moves. The mech just does at it is told! So as long as the stops on the mech are set so they reach top and bottom sprockets you’ll be fine.
I ran a 9 spd set up with a 7 spd mech for quite a while with no probs.
This was with Shimano kit though. May be with SRAM they have kept the amount of cable pull per shift the same and altered the mech. Seems unlikely as 7/8/9/ speed are interchangeable.

I've got a similar problem.
I've tried
Orange peel
Ultra sonic PIR alarm thingy
Green jelly granules
Gralic granules
Horribly spiky twigs/branches
The orange peel didn't seem to help, the Ultra sonic seems effective, but hard to be sure as I've not tried it on its own, the granules seemed to work too but are expensive. Covering the soil with plenty of spiky branches works well understandably and is cheap too!

Rolling resistance will be proportional to all up weight of rider and bike. So you wouldn't need much change in rolling resistance coefficient to counteract the small change in tyre mass.
e.g. You save 2lbs on the tyres, bike + rider = 200lbs. Therefore 2/200 =1% change in total mass. But rolling coefficient of 1 tyre could be +/- 25% of the other easily.

You have kind of got it there. The weight of the bridge is the equiv of the force from the tyre (each unit area of the bridge exerts a force due to mass same as each unit area of the tyre exerts as force due to pressure). i.e. double the width and the brdge weighs twice as much. The cables are the equiv of the rim. This is fixed in size/strength. The only thing resisting the force from the weight of the bridge is the cables so now they are twice has heavily loaded, same as the rim is twice as heavily loaded as the tyre exerts twice the force.

I'm gonna have another try.
Do you accept that a larger tyre has more surface area and force is pressure x area?
If so you will understand that there is more force acting on the tyre.
The tyre is very flexible so the only thing that is stopping it opening up is the rim.
Try pumping up a inner tube inside a tyre off a rim. The beads get further apart as the tube inflates
The force is NOT dissipated. Force does not dissipate.
So therefore is nothing to stop the tyre beads spreading apart other than the rim. What is making the tyre open up is the FORCE created by the pressure x area so the rim feels more force with a large tyre.

100psi is 100 pounds per square inch. If your ram has a piston of 1 sq in in area the force is 100 x 1 = 100lbs force
If your ram is 2 sq inch in area the force is 100 x 2 = 200 lbs force.

Poppa is right. The surface area inside the tyre is greater on a fat tyre and force = Pressure x area. The force is trying to separate the 2 beads. The only thing resisting this force is the rim.
It is the force not the pressure that is trying to split your rim apart.
If you have 2 pneumatic rams, 1 small 1 large, at a given pressure the large one will exert more force. Your tyre is effectively a annular pneumatic ram.
HTH

aracer. I think sfb was saying that people are arguing over % efficincy but the OP is talking about switching a car for a bike. A bicycle wasting 90% of 100W is wasting a lot less energy than a car wasting 67% of 50kW. Even a scooter will use a lot more energy than a leccy bike.

An update incase others find this thread in the future.
I connected the toggle switch in series on the battery -ve lead. The battery +ve lead goes to batt +12v on the driver but the -ve lead (from the switch) goes on grd not the batt -12V pin. LEDs were straight fwd. LED + pin on driver to LED + on LED board and v-v.
Light level is good. Much much brighter than a 15W halogen. Spread is more than I’d like (middle beam optic) but reasonable. The LED board is not a snug fit in the Lumi housing, prob about 0.5 to 1mm clearance all round. I couldn’t get the driver board in the housing due to it’s length so this is mounted externally. Not ideal. I’ll have to sort a weather proof housing for it. But for £30 I’ve got a bright long burn time light so I’m not complaining.
I opted for just 700mA level to keep control simple.

If I want to switch between modes how does that work? i think I need a clicky button. How do I connect it up?

The Rocket is right next door. If you come out the station with the taxi rack in front of you it is straight ahead about 100 yds. Entrance is on opp side. Perfectly decent pub. Not the smartest you’ll find but I’ve been in plenty of times and it’s fine.
There are quite a few places in town to eat/drink. Priory place has a couple of expensive bars. Medieval spon street has a few good ones too.
Not so sure about pubs near the Ricoh Stadium. But it’s not the nicest area of town…