just upgrade to sram eagle, then all you have to worry about is replacing the £80 jockey wheels and inner plate every few weeks when the thread for the top jockey wheel sheers off.

remove pads
pop in a shimano bleed block
manipulate the bike so the calipers bleed port is the highest point or remove if front or not internal.
pop a syringe into the lever bleed port
remove the rubber bung in the bleeding edge port
use a 4mm allen key to open the port
push through brake fluid
close bleeding edge port with 4mm allen key
remove syringe from lever
clean up the caliper
refit pads and hey presto.
prep time may be a bit longer than 20 seconds but the actual bleed is 20 seconds if that.

you can bleed them just fine without it, takes all of about 20 seconds.

is there any one who can update this thread with actually trying a 29er wheel in a 150 stereo?
kind of fancying one myself with wheel swapping in mind.

if the articulation inserts dont just pop out leave them there, the spacers just need to be prized out with a screw driver.

in my exprience “kids brake cable” usually equates to
rusted solid inner and outer, adjuster on the end of the lever crushed,bent or missing, noodle broken or missing, pads down to backing or totally misaligned possibly both.
and that before the trying to get them to even remotely work as they are on a bag of shit from a supermarket.

chap at jungle is telling you lies, i have never ever seen an outer race that will come out with with a pick and ive changed hundreds of bearings, if they were that loose they would have come out with the inner race and balls.

love a thread full of regurgitated magazine crap, if you had ever ridden with these mtb journalists you would know that they generally cant ride for shit.
and wouldn’t know what to write if there wasn’t a press release to re-word.

its oil/gt85 etc see it every week, always accompanied by the same story of “i’ve never sprayed anything on them” until a quick wipe of a finger shows them to be caked in oil of some sort. cleaning won’t fix it because the pads are porous and the oil soaks into them.
clean the disc change the pads and don’t spray gt85 etc anywhere near them.

or possibly glazed pads but this is far less likley.

Typical BPW, just take take take and give nothing at all back.

does solid steel not keep water out these days then?

total non story, trek offer training to women in a male dominated industry so a bunch of male yanks try to score equality points by saying its sexist somehow. more PC BOLLOCKS

where do people get this “shimanos are reliable” idea from?
they are very very prone to random lever failures lost count of how many we have sent back to madison.

reach is a measurement from BB to bars as far as i’m aware and wont change 1 bit

lured by budget brands, put up with budget aftersales. . .

HT x-1 pedal are very very supportive.

thinking more bos, e*thirteen and mavic but race face do make quite poor BB’s and pikes arent the most reliable either in my experience.

YT’s R&D department is a few catalouges from Chinese frame manufacturers.
cheap tat with blingy unreiable components bolted to them.

as a former owner of a 66 and mechanic at a (former)yeti dealer just don’t. Bearing life is terrible, the thing is that they seem all solid and play free until the bearings are absolutely mullered.
i sold mine within 3 months (2 full sets of bearings) of building it. i’ve had a lot of bikes and the only 2 that had really bad bearing problems were the yeti and a blur ltc, don’t think the yanks test in mud at all.
Oh and silverfish/yeti are terrible to deal with regarding warranties too.

ring mojo first, i was talking to one of the technicians a little while back about the evol can and he mentioned that on the enduro the shock needed to be totally revalved to work properly, the stumpy may be the same.

I’m 5″9 and have a medium X10 on order that should be shipping tomorrow so should have it by the end of the week.
also have a 35mm stem and 800mm bars waiting for it.

shop i work at sold 5 sb66c’s in the short time we dealt with yeti and 4 cracked at the chainstay, 2 more than once. they were all warrantied but the process was very slow with endless photo requests and emails insinuating that the riders were abusing them.
woudn’t be surprised if the newer bikes are the same.
problems wont really show up until the investment bankers sell them on to people who start riding them harder.

welcome to the world of direct sales customer care.
chap i know has been waiting almost 5 months.

under 10s are free with a full paying adult, 2 x £6 day passes and 2 x £4 for an upift = £20.
Add to that the very expensive food and an attractive place to take a child it ain’t.

BPW have been greedy from the outset. to do 1 ulifted run with my 10 year old son would cost £20!
i live 20 mins away and hardly go near the place.

please dont start telling the tourists about the masts and the like, the last thing we need is people breaking themselves on the unmarked trails and the powers that be getting twitchy and flattening them all.

there’s a great big thread full of people having problems with their YT’s on a popular colour related mtb site.

you must be joking, i’m surprised the toilets are still free to use.

QUIMOIL !!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-bnhrFnVcY

tis true, cube carbon frames are tested to 4 times the euro impact standards.

http://www.cube.eu/uk/bikes/fullsuspension/stereo/cube-stereo-140-hpc-race-29-blacknflashred-2015/

it should tap through, they can be quite stubborn if they have corroded onto the inner bearing races though.

got a 2015 stereo 160 SL (the very green one) 18″ im a tough over 5 ft 9.

i’ve dealt with lapierre warranty a number of times and they are pretty efficient, usually photo’s will do and they generally don’t ask for the frame for inspection just for the failed frame to be returned.

the 2013 carbon frames did have issues or more accurately the replacement articulation spacers did once the originals wore out, the replacements were too small causing them to rotate in the frame rather than the insert rotating in the spacers.

the 2014> frames have been bombproof, not seen a single failure of any kind on one yet including my own 527 which ha a harder life than most bikes.

my m4’s were shite too, never had such flimsy brake levers, some thing would snap or bend every ime i crashed.

pretty much all the stereo’s are sold out before they have hit the shops, demand has been huge.
we’ve had the hpa pro in the shop and its really nice, its owner is very happy with it.

rode a couple of e-bikes around FOD on a cube dealer day last year and they are immense fun, would i have one as my only bike? No, but if i could afford one i’d love one as a personal uplift service.
everyone who tried one was grinning like an idiot when they got back.
holier than thou trail hippies will despise everything that isn’t a rigid single speed.

http://www.cube.eu/uk/bikes/fullsuspension/stereo/cube-stereo-140-super-hpc-race-275-carbonnflashred-2015/

i sold a five for a blur LTc. . . it was the biggest mistake i ever made. the blur felt totally dead no matter what shock it had, i tried fox,rockshox and a coil.
It chewed through bearings and pivot pins at an alarming rate too despite being stripped and re-lubed every 2 weeks to stop the damn thing creaking.
Sold it after just 8 months to buy a canyon strive which was superior in every possible way as was the SB66, 2014 spicy and stereo 160SL tha have followed it.