i have freeriders and shimano gr7 shoes, find the shimanos better in every way.

bolt snapping is a thing on the alloy 140/160 older stereos, basically drive side bolt comes loose slowly people dont notice it and it wobbles about till it either snaps or ruins the thread. pretty simple fix and easily avoided if you check the bolts every few weeks. rear drop out issue is also something i have seen on alloy and carbon bikes, usually caused by riding with loose rear axle should be reasonably solid as long as the little screw is there. souldnt be like that if its a new one though.

all bikes break, its how its dealt with that matters. in this case rather well it would seem.

just seems like case of the recreationally offended brigade finding this mornings reason for being outraged to me.

wouldn’t touch the YT ebike with a 10ft pole. every carbon YT i’ve worked on has been really roughly made.
Then there is the bespoke battery, if your battery packs in you ARE going to be left with a £4500 paper weight. YT are a tiny bike company in the grand scheme of things and i doubt that the “slung together in chinas cheapest battery factory” bespoke battery is going to be either reliable or in plentiful supply.

make sure the bleed port on the caliper is the highest point of the caliper too, on some frames it wont be, makes a huge difference to brakes with bigger calipers, hope e4/v4 codes, guides, saints etc.

seems to be a handful of folk in this thread that have let their inner white knight totally slay reality.

the KOM of the actual descent is 5 mins, ive done a 6 and could probably shave a few seconds of that with a clean run and trying a bit.

terrys belly 10 mins+ ??

i can get down there in 6 mins ish and i dont think i’ve ever had a clean run.

it’s pretty much 6 minutes of tedium too, left berm, right berm, left burm, right berm. . .

in what world is that possibly a warranty issue??

its lack of maintenance plain and simple, the cassette would have been wobbling like a good un with freehub bearings that worn out.

always thought the dai hard double was a fair qualifier when you consider that if you want to ride it as intended there is a reasonably sized road gap/step down followed by a 15-20 ft double near the end of the trail.

Had a bit of a chuckle when i read that folks think BPW has techy trails. what on earth do you regularly ride to think that??

there’s nothing at eastridge to be scared about, kneepads and helmet are sufficient.

i’ve had to deal with quite a few people getting all arsey because i wont process warranty parts of their broken canyons and crapra’s free of charge.

they get filled with water and grit by poor maintenance but don’t suddenly fall apart of their own accord.

always get concerned when someone claims their BB just “failed”, its right up there with how are my brakes plastered in oil? i dont spray my chain with gt85 honest.

just more shitty shimano lever problems, had it happen to mine, so did a week in france hanging my helmet over the front brake when stopped so it didnt lock on in the direct sublight.

throw them away and get something decent.

well if your that tight you’ll have to wait. would you sell to direct customers for a far higher profit or to a shop for less if it was your business.

nope, they are different.

have one in the shop at the moment and doubt very much a 27+ would fit in there.
why would you want to put a plus sized pootleing tyre on a bike lie the rallon anyway ??

nice, i have to wait till mid feb for my 29er to arrive, not a kona but a rallon so similar.

they will side with the buyer absolutely 100% of the time regardless of how much proof or evidence you have to disprove the buyers claims.

trust me its the seal (6) it will seem to work fine of the bike but once the whole assembly is compressed when fitted to the bike it will drag.

@nickism, ive had quite a lot of experience with the race face droppers, the turbine’s are utter crap that are super sensitive to cable length and endlessly lose air.
the aefect posts are basically rebadged tranz-x posts and far superior in both action and reliability.

part no 6 hasn’t been seated properly, remove parts 7,8,9 slide the freehub body onto the axle shaft and give it a thump, this should seat the seal(6) properly and the freehub will spin normally once re-assembled.

taking one out tuesday afternoon, i’ll let you know.

Nope it’s gone, time to buy a new lever. All Shimano levers do it if you work them hard. They are utter suite, it still amazes me that they get so much love on the googleweb

Just ditched my xt’s after yet another lever shit the bed, popped some guide re brakes on instead.

Hopes, the shimanos WILL stop working after a few months the hopes won’t.

do it, i’ve owned nothing but vans for the last 10 years, once you’ve had a van you realize just how impractical cars are even if your not a biker.

its possible the wrong rocker link kit has been used, the one for alloy frames has slightly longer bolts that the carbon frame kit. they look almost identical though.

should work perfectly, you’ve done something wrong.

3mm allen key to remove the cover and simply push the cable out, a toddler could do it.

i know the bolt they are referring to, its not that hard to remove if you have some pretty basic tools.

not how cube operate in my experience, never had to send anything back, a few photos and a new part/frame within a week or so if they have one usually.
the folk at oneway bike speak better english than most folk on this forum.

they should be tough enough, the one i worked on recently weighed about the same as a small moon.

@wideboy i was told a while back from an industry insider that the total sales from v10’S doesn’t even come close to covering the cost of running the dh team.

In the case of the stereo pop a 160 airshaft in the forks and some offset bushes and it’s a total weapon.

if it’s splines with the ratchet ring get them if its the 3 pawl go hope.

oh to be a fly on the wall when the box full of components in plastic bags arrives from germany and **** all works because one of the OE parts has different firmware to the rest.