hi sadexpunk,

I used a presta valve from a bmx tube. Actually I first tried the cut open bmx tube method, but couldn't get the tyre on (seems that DT rim and bonty tyre are rather tight!).

I cut the valve out narrow enough to get in the rim. The problem seemed to be that the tyre wanted to stay in the center of the rim and the bead wouldn't settle next to the valve at first. Some fiddling and mild cursing got it in in the end.

I did two wraps of insulation tape with the valve trapped between the two.

The key really seemed to be the compressor (aldi small one) and once up, the sealant. It first sealed with a small amount of sealant because I ran out. I've since added more and at the same time got to see that the tape was well pushed into the spoke holes by the pressure, but with no splitting at this stage. No sign of losing pressure so far.

the only thing i've ever seen that 'wears out' headsets (even cheapy caged ball badly sealed ones) is jet washing.

oh, and one that got a little bit notchy after someone hit a tree head on.

Don't think I'd ever spend more than 20 quid or so on one…

thanks again Brant. So far my only test was that I've not died yet (alps and little slope style park).

If you have any figures/methods about strength and leverage for frames I would certainly be interested from an academic point of view…

marin rocksprings with TARA (at 150mm travel setting)

thanks for the input Brant

To clarify, the question came about because I got a big fork cheap in a sale, and planned to follow up with a frame. In the meantime I've tried it on an existing bike, and find that it actually rides quite well (dh/fr, never expected it to be a trail bike with a 180mm fork).

What I was wondering after a couple of similar discussions on here, is can any figures be put on the extra force on the frame, and because of that, how overbuilt standard frames are these days?

thanks the00, those are exactly the things I was wondering about!

that's why I asked really, to get some more detailed info on the complexity…

regarding the fork length, surely force=newtons x length if I remember correctly, so assuming same newtons (mass of rider) it will be a linear relationship with length of the fork?

would just be interested in some real enginering input. I'm not afraid of a few equations!

I still come back to the CEN frame testing stuff. If every frame has to now pass a test with a certain force applied on the headtube, is this area becoming as standard 'very strong' for all types of frame?

just to join in your fun – i successfully converted one of my wife's wheels yesterday.

cheapy electrical tape to seal the spoke holes, cut out valve from old inner tube taped in, used non-UST tyre and stans sealant.

it took a bit of fiddling to get tyre to seat around the cut out valve, but eventually the compressor did it's thing. I only really used soapy water after inflation to help check for leaks. The sealant has done its thing nicely.

For the next conversion I'm going to get a real tubeless valve to put in, as the cut out version gets in the way of the tyre too much.

tails, that ought to work of course, but I've always found it more effective to set the limits without the cable.

for both points, the sealant shouldn't go off.

there's air in the tyre, so exposure to air with the bead off isn't any different.

I recently had to put 2 patches inside a UST tyre where a really good wallop put two splits in the tyre. Worked fine. I suspect that patching a UST is more effective though as there is a better layer of rubber inside for the patch to vulcanise to.

what on earth are you trying to do with this derailleur??

sounds like you're seriously overcomplicating it.

with the cable unattached, set the screws so that it lines up with the small sprocket, push it by hand to the top of its range and use the screw to line up with biggest sporcket.

let go.

check shifter is fully clicked to left. pull cable tight and attach.

try shifting, if up shift isn't going well, unscrew barrel adjuster on mech or shifter a litlle and try again.

ride.

I'm surprised you've got any trouble in October. I've had to resort to stuffing a sock down there one winter, but it was -15 on the commute.

A second layer of lycra, or windproof baggies over is about all you can do I reckon.

don't think you've said what tyres? try it with a real UST first?

since you're talking about rear mech, smallest sprocket will in fact mean little red marker at the left of the window.

that's the second mention of a bike stolen from a train I've seen recently.

how the hell are we supposed to decide to use the trains more if this is what happens.

good luck finding it.

I did.

Why the desire to find a way in which you've 'suffered a loss'?

You say yourself you're not that fussed about selling it, so isn't it reasonable that they've helped you have a functional bike.

I'm also not a halfords employee(or -er) (see the happy jobs thread!).

If you're determined to get some sort of compensation for the intense suffering of using a lower spec hub, maybe you should be trying to get given a pair of matching wheels.

why not just be happy that you've been given frames and wheels without argument, and keep or keep using the bike until you finally get the wheel. Do you think they're making it all up for fun? Sounds to me like they've been trying to be helpful.

so in other words you're no closer to getting exactly 23!

I agree with the change in intended use, but that's essentially part of my original question.

If I have an 'all-mountain' frame (6" travel, so probably into the burlier realms of all-mountain) that is ok for decent size drops etc. at 130mm fork, is the safety margin so big that similar drops with a bigger fork aren't actually a lot more stressful?

Starting out with an all-mountain full suss rather than an xc race hardtail obviously influences the intended use.

In fact though, if all frames now have to pass the new regulations, isn't the head tube on a basic hardtail effectively tested to be as strong as a freeride bike?

if the tests found a difference but one couldn't hear it, then Mr Woppit would still be deluded…

That's why I mentioned the new EU regulations stuff. I can't remember the exact details, but didn't people on here mention that some frames had to have headtubes redesigned?

So if all frames have to now meet the same standard for strength at the headtube, what is an EU standard max rider weight?

I agree that food shopping in particular seems to add up amazingly fast lately.

I should add that I'm not in the UK but in Belgium, but just buying normal stuff without either luxuries or mega budget stuff adds up horribly.

Can't complain with our quality of life overall, but it's always frustrating to see money haemorrhage out…

apparently a slipstreamer helps the car/bike in front

I also agree it seems the cost of the compromise.

The low front end and sharp geometry that makes a better climbing bike makes downhill harder work.

I often wouldn't mind a better bike for climbing to keep up with some fast mates, but then I wouldn't enjoy the downhills as much.

I think a travel adjustable fork is about as good as you can get to have the choice of a lower front end when you want.

neuroscientist – not always mega exciting day to day, but a satisfying job.

On 'grass is always greener' moments I think something bike related would be good, but then think that ending up fixing punctures most of the time or dealing with people too much would spoil it. Plus feel inclined to make use of the PhD I had to work for.

chilli – bugger!

chilli – what caused that????

maybe missed the point of usual cycling, but as an exercise in engineering all those linkages to run the legs in a realistic manner it's cool!

the set screws in the other thread don't look like they'll work with 50/50s…

or download a trial version of a real statistics program

thanks Trevor!

interested in this too. anyone got a link?

cool!

i seem to remember that excel has a spearman's function anyway…

check the statistical functions

fairy liquid is NOT the same as mortar plasticiser. Had a hell of a job convincing my father-in-law that one, till I could show him the difference between his crumbling mortar and the nice one I made. His brickwork was good though!

definitely one of the nicest quality videos I've seen posted in some time. Must have taken you a while to set up all the camera angles and walk back up to ride. NIce work.

cool Stevo. I do seem to have missed out on some nice trails though!

thanks guys, i'll check them out.

those vids look nice colin. Can I ask where you got the camera from?

vholdr/contourHD looks interesting, though I don't see many suppliers (I'm in Belgium).

Any other suggestions folks? (and places to buy please!)