I’ve been pushing myself more and more this year and take a similar approach to what maxtorque talked about. Confidence is knowing that you have the ability to allow a good outcome and a big part of that is trusting yourself.

Rather than focus on a specific technique, like maxtorque, I have wee mental cues which remind me about what to do: look where you want to go, not where your front wheel is; stand tall on the bike and give it room to move; feet firm on the pedals, heels down; heavy feet, soft hands; keep off the brakes for better traction. Every now and again I remind myself of those when I’m riding but it’s gotten to the point where it’s mostly automatic and natural.

Just finished my bottle of Finish Line Dry and bought some Squirt lube on the strength of the recommendations here. A few folk saying degrease the chain before first application… I have a relatively new (200 miles?) chain which has only had aforementioned dry lube on it – should I still degrease?

I’ve been to GT once and I’m in no rush to return.

A few folk here blaming Strava. I doubt that’s the cause of people being dicks, instead it’s just a means to an end for their self-fulfilment.

People sell what people will buy. I agree that a fully rigid, even single speed, bike would benefit from maximising that £129 budget. But people don’t want that. They want suspension, they want a number of gears. “They”, in this case, being people who don’t want to spend (and frankly don’t need to spend) hundreds on an entry level bike.

That’s mostly water retention, as you’ve relaxed your diet over a while. When you suddenly change to eat salty foods, in particular, it’s not uncommon to end up as much as 10lbs heavier pretty much overnight. Body fat scales won’t really register this accurately because the water levels mean they’re generally really unreliable. Go back to eating your normal healthy diet and you’ll drop the water fairly quickly. You’ll know this happens if it feels like you’re peeing more than usual!

Big yellow thing in the sky was trying to out-yellow the fields in the Pentlands.

Have you adjusted the lever pull? If the levers are wound in too close to the bar the brakes will feel naff, good bleed or not.

32T if yer fit, 30T if yer fat. Unless you like blasting down fireroads at 30mph, it’s better to have lower ratios than higher ratios imo.

30T rings often have spacers so the chain doesn’t rub against the crank tabs, no idea what the Superstar one is like.

Northwind: for sizes, see http://www.reifenbreiten-datenbank.de/reifen-Maxxis-Ardent-29×2.40.html

Since I started using dry lubes instead of wet ones, I’ve only had to wipe the chain clean with a rag. It doesn’t get manky enough to necessitate degreasing and cleaning it thoroughly.

I thought chain baths in degreaser were supposed to be bad because they wash the grease out of parts of the chain which lube (and muck) don’t really reach?

I’ve never bought a bike from them but have bought the odd part. Sent out the same day and arrived less than 48 hours after I ordered. Never had to get in contact with them for any reason so dunno about the CS.

My bike has 180mm Shimano rotors with XT brakes, using the Shimano adapters. There’s barely enough calliper clearance as it is, a few more mm wouldn’t fit.

legend: I think that bit takes you out at the end of the top red loop. You know, where the fireroad climb ends and the red starts winding up into through the trees?

Edit: matt, I always wondered if that trail existed so you could go new red to blue, or so you could use the start of the blue as an alternative to the fire road to start the red climb. Good to know it’s the former, I’ve been linking new red to blue by taking the fireroad to the start of the blue…

That’s what I love about CC. It’s short but there’s never a moments respite from something technical.

Thiaisnotaspoon: I don’t think the SLX jockeys are the same style of bearing as XT so if that’s the issue then I doubt it would affect Deore and SLX mechs. You can tighten the clutch, if you google I’m pretty sure someone like Pinkbike did a photo guide.

Northwind: I think the 2015 Nukeproof addressed that problem with the Evo version. Not sure if the SS pedals are based on new or old Electrons.

Another +1 for the Nukeproof Electron Evos. Very similar design to the Superstar ones, but with a couple of extra pins. I bought some recently, cheapest online is ubyk for a fiver more than the SS ones.

That all depends on how fit you are and how much training you’ve done so far this year. Without a good base of training, you’ll find it more difficult to get back into things after a break.

Either option could easily leave you too fatigued to recover in time for your big ride and, frankly, one ride on its own isn’t going to make much of a difference. I’d settle for a moderate length at a moderate effort, rather than going high intensity or long duration. Recovering from time on the bike matters more than what you do on it, in this case.

Accuracy is similar, sample rate is higher for dedicated devices. That means it more accurately represents a ride. Also means battery might not last as quickly though. My Polar GPS watch wouldn’t last as long as my phone would using Strava; partly because of smaller battery, partly because of the demands of tracking position.

Regarding earlier comment on phones locking on faster because of AGPS, many GPS devices (mine included) use AGPS too and update satellite predictions when you sync.

Is your saddle too high? If the bike can’t move around underneath you, it’ll move you instead, bucking you up and off the pedals.

Is your body positioned far enough back, too? Most of your weight should be going down through your feet into the pedals rather than through your hands. Let your legs absorb the landing

I eat a moderately high protein diet (160g day). Focus on getting lots at breakfast, if I don’t eat much protein at breakfast then it’s difficult to catch up through other meals and snacking. A few scrambled eggs is my usual. Cheap, delicious, decent amount of protein.

Comrie Croft has a Strava segment for the new red trail, named “Euan’s Second Cousin Buys Jam for the First Time”. I don’t even…

I use a combination of OS maps and Strava. Finding trails on an OS map is one thing, but Strava tells you how, and if, the locals ride it.

They’re a more rigid, rectangular shape rather than the flexy water sausage that my camelbaks end up like, so I find they sit better. Still a bit of movement if the pack is too big for the reservoir but it’s a lot better.

I have one, love it. Reservoir is a good size and the rigid body makes it easier to fill than my old CamelBak. Plenty of space, maybe more than I need. Fits my tools, snacks, extra layer, camera, etc with room to spare. I could’ve probably gotten a smaller one. Only downside is it snagged on a tree and tore the compression net on the back, although it’s off for warranty repair. I think someone posted here a few weeks ago about a different pack, except the tree tore the entire front pocket off, so I got off lightly!

Anyone used their finned XT pads? How do they compare to the Shimano ones?

Always on, except when taking wheel off. Never adjusted mine yet, it’s still solid.

Epic bleed solutions also do a cheap cutter.

I went 1×10 with a Deore triple and Superstar N/W, no problems here whatsoever. Like mcnultycop I sold the (used) rings on for about £20 which recovered some of the cost.

Remember to get single chainring bolts since the ones with the crank will be too long – about a fiver from Charlie the Bikemonger.

jezzep >> I fairness I purchased a Halfrauds Carrera Kraken for my son thinking it should last the distance/a distance. Within one year the only thing of major significance is the frame & forks ;-( whilst one would think that it was just an upgrade path, I would add that most parts just wore out or broke. In my sons defence he did manage about 2500Km in the last 13 months….I guess Krakens are built to a price and for lighter use

So what you’re saying is the components – which you’ll find on similar or more expensive priced bikes from other brands – are goosed, and the frame and fork are still going strong? What does that have to do with it being a Carrera or a bike from Halfords? If anything, the one thing which Halfords are responsible for is the bit which is still fine!

No idea what the deal is nowadays, but their old frames were great (made by Merida). My (2009?) frame is still going strong. All the other bits have been replaced or upgraded, but the frame is braw :-)

Used to wear those same ones years ago, fantastic. Used to fog up if it was raining so I’d have to climb with them pushed down my nose a bit. Unfortunately, now I’ve got to wear “proper” glasses.

I’ve got a Polar M400 with HRM. Great device, battery alright, GPS is excellent (even in the aids). I’d recommend Polar were it not for lack of third party connectivity. Is automatically exporting to Strava,etc too much to ask?!

I like a good old-fashioned “access for no-one except us” argument. Haven’t seen one from climbers before, though, that’s new to me.

I went from 3×8 to 1×10 this year. 34-11T with a 32T N/W. Not missing the little ring and not feeling the need for a wider range on the back (bargain 34T for me rather than the normal 36T cassette). I ride big Scottish hills and the only things I can’t get up I’d be pushing up anyway. The jump from 8 to 10 speed was good, not sure I’d have bothered with a new drivetrain for just one more cog on the back…

Fife council have a DET teacher surplus as a result of merging the schools in Leven in a year or two, so they’re not advertising any jobs for the foreseeable future. That said, I’ve also heard that Fife like to keep their probationers when they can.

Perth & Kinross seems to have a fair amount of jobs advertised in DET. A little bit further away, there often seem to be jobs going in the Falkirk area too. Good luck if you go for it – it seems like a fun subject and O/H loves teaching it :)

My other half is a DET teacher in Scotland. I don’t want to put you off it, but the job market is very tough. Be prepared to work on supply for a while. Some councils have actually stopped hiring new permanent staff, for the time being, as many schools are merging and there are more teachers than there are jobs.

Unless you’re willing to move up North, permanent jobs are difficult to come by. It’s easier to find jobs north of the central belt because “once you move there, you can’t move back”. The rather frank view is that if you’re teaching the placid, rural chookters, you’ll be out of your depth with the rough and rowdy kids from the central belt. Especially in the DET subjects, which generally tend to attract the less academic kids. Some people don’t mind that but most don’t want those jobs because it limits future options. Just bear it in mind.

She did the PG course at Strathclyde a while ago and seemed happy with it. Most of her class are no longer in teaching, for reasons I’ve mentioned above.

I would like to try wider bars but I’m finding 720 too tight in some local trails and I’m not rad enough to manual and twist the bars as I pass through the trees.

I’m using the SLX rotors (RT66?) with XT brakes, all good. On CRC they’re only a tenner for 180mm and aren’t the Ice Tech ones.

http://www.mbr.co.uk/how-to-2/tech-advice/goes-inside-suspension-fork-shock-322602

No videos, but has cutaway images showing the internals of a fork and shock.

I let it dry then knock the mud off. If I want it really clean I’ll give it a quick run over with some baby wipes (they’re magic, really) – means I’m not throwing water at it and faffing about with dirty rags and brushes. Fork juice every couple of rides to keep it smooth and bring up gunk from the seals.

Only thing I don’t bother with is the wheels. Sparkly bike, bogging tyres.

I like cleaning my bike. It’s an effort in futility but I enjoy it all the same.