I bought the needle bearing shock kit from RWC and was impressed with the quality and attention to detail of the kit and is still going strong since fitment.

Apparently the shim kit you can put inside the air can resolves this issue, so would be your cheapest option.
I run a Marzocchi Roco TST R and that is nice shock, and has a very useful climb and descend lever which nearly locks it out for climbing and then makes it nice and coil like for the downhills.
Bonus of the Marzocchi shocks is they can be picked up quite cheaply second hand.

The sensible thing would be for the person doing the boring commute runs, to make them private.

I had one crack at the faceplate.
Needless to say i now have a heavy but dependable stem fitted now.

The biggest advantage of a singlespeed is you realize you need speed to get through a technical uphill climb.. And you soon loose speed in a technical climb when you cant change gears.
So you just have to try and keep as fast as possible, for as long as you can.
When you get to the top, you realize its actually made clearing the obstacle easier.
Thus you become faster and fitter.

Has anyone been up around Farley Mount (Winchester) recently? Just wondering how overgrown things are at the moment..

Went up there last week, and came back with no skin left to be stung by stingy nettles..
Never seen it so overgrown!

Its for those who forget your supposed to tension the chain once in a while

Go along to an Edinburgh RC Mtb ride on a Saturday morning, best way to explore the Pentlands

If you’re thinking rigid, I can recommend these.
Bit of a bargain at that money, weigh next to nothing, disturbingly comfortable over the rough stuff compared to the stock fork on my fortitude, and damn sexy to boot.

Don’t suppose you have a picture of them fitted to your fortitude?

Raceface Turbine SL

You know manually setting an elevation point reference on the 500 improves altitude readings and keeps them reliable.
Or just leave the Garmin outside for 20mins before starting makes it more accurate.

How about a P-Clip:

Always thought it would be nice if they did a version with swap drop outs to allow for singlespeed use..

That’s a good deal for a Genesis Fortitude Race at £634

Old 2003 – 2004 Marzocchi Marathon S are the closest to that spec i have found.
Shame they don’t make anything like that anymore.

http://www.marzocchi.com/template/detailProdotti.asp?LN=UK&idC=1592&IdFolder=113&idMY=2456&IdOggetto=2611

I think the main problem is the rubbish bleeding process..
The fact the kit costs 1/3 of the brake set if you have elixir 1’s doesn’t make them cost effective.

I have been running mine for a year and a half, and other getting past the most aggravating bleed process they work fine and are nice and powerful used year round.

The bleed process though.. many a time i have bled as per the instructions and then you find the lever could feel better but works..
So you bleed it again and the lever then feels worse.
Then you do it again and the hose on one of the syringes fails and your back to square one..
Which could be a good reason why there is air in there because its all or nothing with the bleed process.

What has redeemed them from the bin due to the rubbish bleeding process. Was only using one syringe and a rag at the lever end, and pushed the fluid out that way retaining the same bleed procedure.

And just remembering, when i got mine new the hose was to short so bought a new hose, and was surprised with the contaminants which came out of the fluid for new brakes.. That’s not going to help longevity.

If you are using the granny currently to get up the hills, and are not a fan of a singlespeed technique for getting up the hills..
1×10 may not be suitable.

Cheapest way would be to do your rides in the middle ring for a while and see how that feels.

The illusion that is given that 1×10 is the answer to all gear combos isn’t true. Or the definition of hill varies…

Bontrager G-Mud
http://bontrager.com/model/08867

I feel mugged

Until you remember winter time destroys your nice expensive components..
And you wish for a bike which didn’t cost so much to replace the consumables..

I’m pretty sure the the main difference is stainless steel bearings vs mild steel, which gives you the extra life difference between the two imo.

Every Tuesday night from Wallington Village Hall there is a Fareham Wheelers Mountain bike ride:

http://www.fareham-wheelers.org.uk/mtb.shtml

There is also a Gosport Clarion MTB Ride on a Sunday Evening also:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/GosportClarionCyclingClub/

Both of those cover the local area

Done this today, and works a treat.
Thanks for the heads up 🙂

By advocating that you use a voucher to get the discount, with the sole intention of returning part of the order as your total spend was never intended to be over the voucher discount threshold.

Doesn’t come across very sporting this.
Nice that companies offer a free way of returning products, so it would be a shame to loose that facility from abuse.

I do wonder if a lot of the this brake was rubbish the new brake i replaced it with is amazing.
Is due to the fact brakes a lot of the time, are fitted and the brake fluid isn’t changed, until it has damaged the brake with age.. Not to mention having a lower boiling point, and loosing the lever feel.
Hardly surprising then a new brake feels better.

Ordered recently from them, and needed the item asap so used the next day delivery. And as it says, arrived the next working day.
Recommended.

Profile Elite Mtb Hub

Once a brake has cooked, the brake fluid will have a lower boiling point than before.
So the problem will only get worse and worse..
You say you have had them 4 years, so the brake fluid will require changing.
Buy some new Dot 4 and re-bleed the brakes.

If there anything like the Shimano DX30 pedal.
The inner bush nearest the thread, is made of plastic, and once worn means the play can be a pain to eliminate.

You would be much better off letting the forks bed in first, so that the oil in there is contaminated from manufacturing byproducts.
And then change it.
By changing the oil yourself on new forks you do risk the hazard of invalidating your warranty mind.

30.9 or 31.6 seat tube 30.9
66 or 67 degree head angle 67.5
71 ish seat angle 72
140 or 150mm front travel 150mm
43″ plus wheel base 44.5″ in Large

2013 Santa Cruz Heckler

I would say no.
Its more important to have decent bottom bracket drainage..

Could you not get away with drilling the center of your current tool a slightly larger diameter than the axle stub, so you could get the extra depth?

Cheers for the heads up, that’s a decent offer.

http://www.identitibikes.com/products-details.php?id=FKITRLJK 465mm

Identiti rebate forks

I have a 44t Chainring with a bash guard, paired with a medium cage rear mech. It works very nicely at keeping the chain nice and tight for the bumpy bits.
Only sacrifice is you cant use the 44t for the higher gears but that’s duplicated by the 32t anyway.
Its good fun pedalling downhill to go as fast as possible..
I wouldn’t want to be without it.

I have the same colour frame, and mine was similar when I picked it up over a year ago.
The parts where it looks bare metal Haven’t rusted and by the time the rest of the paint wears you soon forget!
Not to mention the usual On One gusset rusting.
For the price you pay its to be expected, rides well which is what counts.