I wouldn't, no. To be honest I'm a bit worried about getting mine out come bearing change time. I tried to push them in by hand (the AM4 has an o-ring on the caps but the XC3 doesn't; it's just an interference fit), but couldn't so greased them up and they then very easily tapped in with a soft mallet.

Getting them out will be exactly like a headset cup. There is no more than 2mm of soft aluminium to whack with a drift. I did think about making a tool indentical to a headset cup remover out of 15mm copper pipe.

Pro3 XC3 or AM4?

I presume you know this, but you may be limited to a 15mm thru-axle as the XC3 can't be converted to 20mm.

The 15mm adapter in my Pro3 XC3's were a seriously snug fit, and required pressing in. I don't imagine for one minute they will simply pull out by hand which may involve a little faffing as there is little to nothing to get a drift to locate against.

The ally insert factory-fitted into my Lynskey would mirror that, it's about 60mm long and about 10mm past the top-tube weld.

Search the forum. There was exactly the same thread a few months back.

The same size Sumo weighed over 60g more and was sent back to be exchanged for the Alien for that very reason.

USE Alien Carbon. Suprised myself when I weighed mine as they aren't uber expensive.

A 27.2 350mm weighed 172g

Google, 0.24seconds, 6804 2rs.

Have a look at the bicyclemania events website. They have past years routes online which take in most of the Wolds riding.

A lot will be claggy mud and it's hillier than you think in places but it's always nice to get out and explore.

Oh, and if you really did have flu, you wouldn't even be wanting to turn the computer on let alone go ride, so rest assured you haven't got flu.

No.

Above neck then fine albeit go gentle.
Below neck then you risk serious problems with your heart.

Note, a medium Sanderson acutally weighs 5lb 6oz, about a lb more than the Simple.

Sanderson is lovely to look at but was rather too 'solid' for my liking, and I couldn't get their ebb to lock out properly.

Cotic would be my choice.

Is the water definately coming in around the edge?

To get them water-tight, can he not insert expanding foam (using the proper gun not the crap plastic nozzle sort) and then point the outside?

You haven't mentioned if the valves are both open?!

The Pro3-AM4 can be converted to 20mm (Adapters included with wheels), 15mm or QR but the Pro3-XC3 (only superlight XC rims so no Flows) can only do QR and 15mm.

The bearings are stainless steel which IMO is a big selling point, the Pro2 freehub seal is plastic and water easily gets through it (you can tell mid-ride when it is getting in as the freehub sound changes), sits inside the hub and rots the driveside hub bearing.

If you need rotors as well then the AM4's are a cracking deal. I managed to pinch flat so hard I went through the tyre (running Flow's tubeless) but the wheel and rim still remained perfectly true!

FFIW, the Hope tools really do make the job nicer. The old XC bearings used to have a substantial outer race which a socket would easily whack against. The newer Pro2's have much less meat round the edge and a chamfered socket doesn't seem to sit very well.

It's do-able, but the tools cost less than the bearings so worth it imo. Genuine Hope INI bearings last considerably longer than the £1.50 one's from ebay IME.

When I bought my tools from 18bikes they were £17 for a full set; front bearing tools, rear bearing tools and the freehub tool. CRC do the bearing tools seperately for about £10 if you just wanted the front ones.

Tis an easy job. Oh, and the cartridge bearings come supplied with the seals.

It is easy to tell DIY fit doors. If you can, get a joiner in to do it, he sould get them all done in a day if everything is straight forward and you already have all the materials on site.

Beware of tracing round the old one because if its been fitted properly the latch edge (and often the hinge edge too if the frame has been clagged up with years of paint) should have been led in and will give a false reading for it's actual width.

I can't believe no one has mentioned marking gauges. I wouldn't entertain chopping hinges without a pair of them, and a saw horse with a notch in the end to hold the door upright for planing.

An electric plane is fine for shooting the edges if you need to take a lot off but I would always finish them with a couple of passes by hand.

Sharp tools are a must. Most brand new chisels won't be sharp, often they haven't even had a secondary bevel put on them, same goes for plane irons.

Oh, and 3mm gaps don't cut it in my book.

Good luck.

Is the axle-spacer washer still in there? IIRC on the XC's it sits on the axle between the hub body and freehub. It's about the size of a penny but with a big hole it it!

Other than that do the three pawls and their springs look to be fine?

Try taking freehub off, flushing the bearings well with WD40 to get them spinning freely, then go ride and see if ithe problem stops. If it does then just replace the 3 freehub bearings.

FFIW, Thomson stems do have a habit of breaking due to over stress on bolts. I personally know of 2.

Spent £180 on a pair and sold them about a month later for £65.

If your used to SPD's you may find them hard to get used to. Buy a £15 pair off ebay and give them a try. The lack of positive engagement takes some getting used to. I also found my feet slipping out of them at critical moments even with the cleats at the max release angle.

They do look amazing and are uber light. Bearings/bushes have poor reputaion for longivity.

Cotic Soul in large is 4.7lb

Cynic, which size inbred have you weighed at 4.7lb?

Genius.

Steel female and ally male. Have done for years and Shimano supply them as standard like this too.

I have just tried it with a spare inner tube and it works great. Just tried it on the Stan's valve again and it doesn't work, despite them looking identical (inner tube also a removable core).

It's perfectly normal and your doing everything right.

The knurled valve nut can sometimes get a little clogged with sealant or the pin can get slightly bent from hamfisted pumping. In this case as you say the valve will come appart as you unscrew.

Uplink's idea of silicone grease is good to stop it happening, and the £5 for the red Stan's tool is money well spent ime compared to a mini adjustable for nipping the valve-core back up nice and tight.

It's just one of those things.

I find to get the valve assemby nice and tight to the rim, it helps if you pull on the valve as hard as you can whilst tigtening the lockring. I've never had a whole valve unscrew before like you describe.

Slw, it's won pretty much every test it has been in which is why I had specifically hunted it down.

Although I admit it is the shiniest 🙂

Osmo Polyx hardwax oil.

Not really a wax, but I suspect it is what you are remembering. I use it a lot for work and it is brilliant. Not cheap but for a single door you shouldn't need much.

Use the QR as a lever to tighten up the 20mm axle using the notch (only needs nipping up) in the end.

Then treat the QR like a normal QR, in that you need to wind in the loose nut to get the right tension before closing the lever.

In the maxle case, all the QR is doing is stopping the 20mm through-axle from unscrewing.

Cheers for the head's up HH, I'm in for '10 🙂

think about home the weight is spread about on a p7 torch compared to the highly centralised mass of a MAXX D

Not sure I agree with that, unless your strapping it directly to your head, your helmet is quite likely to distribute the load.

I'm not saying a MaxxD is any good on the helmet though, just that it's not that much heavier than a P7.

Not sure how the MaxxD compares, but the 3-led Enduro Maxx isn't that much heavier than a P7 torch.

A singlespeed specific chain like a KMC 610HX might help, although even 8sp chains don't stretch that badly.

And yup, a spare bit of chain is a good idea.

XTR don't have a titanium axle.

Scribe your internal skirting-board corners won't you.

How many people are going to be owning and wanting a salary from the profits of this bike shop?

The more people in the pot the less viable the chances of making a living. An average bike shop isn't going to make enough money to provide 3 or 4 £20k+ salaries. Hence a lot use part time student staff and weekend youngsters.

Are those door knobs real diamonds?

Great collection btw, well done. I presume all the Thomson's are Masterpiece's?

I've not had any problems injecting Stan's through the valve myself, even using just a normal 50p 60ml syringe.

There is an independent review of the caffelatex on bikefix.net

My last 1L bottle of JRA was rubbish, on 2 or 3 occasions it set solid like fried egg white after only a few days of being sat still in the tyre. Back to Stan's for me.

It's worth taking into account Roger fits valves and yellow tape which is about £17's worth.

If my wheels came 3mm out of true I'd not be happy tbh.

1st thing I would do is put the old chain back on to see if the noise goes away.

Burls do cheap custom ti.

I presume you are using a Stan's vavle?

I'll mail you my address just in case!

Anthony.