That’s the new EVO design!

The driveside is also now without ‘flange’ and everytime I take my cassette off there is a good few mls of water sat in there, even though my bike sits next to a radiator when not in use.

It’s perhaps as well they are now fitted with stainless bearings.

Can’t quite understand it personally and the old pro2 bearing drifts don’t fit now either!

Nice1

I want a bike cellar!

The R4 has a split clamp aluminium bracket with 2x M4 bolts, 3mm Allen key head.

As long as you get it even over the two bolts I don’t think you’ll go wrong with your average length loose Allen key.

Not a lot, its hardly under a lot of weight.

As with all torque, I tend to use a mix of common sense and ‘feel’

If not, think I have, somewhere…

Lol, so in order for my Race X2’s to feel as powerful as my xtr’s, I need to pull the lever harder?

So in the real world, surely that means my XTR’s are more powerful because I don’t need to pull them as hard?!

Dyno ‘power’ and real riding ‘power’ for me, must differ, for my girl like fingers anyway!

Naturally pad compound and conditions play a major part in comparisons.

I love the both though, don’t get me wrong.

Had a set for few weeks. No where near the power of my XTR Trail’s but fine for general lightweight trail duties.

They are lovely things for sure though, with uncut hoses, ex rotors they were 206/212g so good weight. I so much prefer the minimal Race levers compared with the agricultural Tech levers.

Might be intentional, but my ‘stealth’ anodizing on the calipers actually looks very dark blue in certain lights, definitely inconsistent with the jet black of the lever assembly.

To confirm, they are just a black version of the green ones, which were 15% betterer than the older grey non Evo ones.

I never bothered.

For normal section rims the extra ‘spare’ 30odd mm of brass makes them weigh more than a normal tube anyway and unbalances the wheel at speed. (#Read-I’m a snob and couldn’t stand to look at them!)

Hope a few of you got a bargain,

Anthony.

Note, taking ones feet out of spd’s whilst riding fastish downhill on a fixie with no brakes isn’t a good idea. Matching ones feet with the rotating pedals is very very frightening as a fixie-novice 😯

MoreCashThanDash, I remember that; it was a lovely article.

The boy’s grandad had done similar, only on far more primitive technology. He then also had to cycle the 100miles home the next day iirc!

4 year old son that now happily rides 1-2hrs of Sherwood Pines red route.

Rides on average 30mins to an hour everyday whether it be larking about riding the curbs or off across the fields.

Now the nights have drawn in we are off nightriding too.

Blooming ace it is, his pace is far from slow either.

The smaller front rings will provide more suitable the same gear inches (link) to a 26er.

A bit like changing gear you mean?!

Yeah, I see what you mean cheers.

When under load the pawls are ‘locked’ though? Presumably you’re then referring to wear/damage to the pawl seats? Which being the alloy of the freehub I guess could get damaged.

So a singlespeed rider actually puts less strain on a freehub going up steep hills than a geared rider?

Osmo is still amazing stuff, I love it, for most Joinery its my go to finish. But surfaces that catch the light really show up scratches and can look shabby within weeks. Sadly when sat at a dining table under electric lighting they stand out.

We tried pouring boiling water straight out the kettle onto the TimberTect and it was like, er, water off a ducks back!

No recoat needed. Ever (according to the blurb, not used it long enough to properly test that!).

TimberTect from Conservation Chemicals.

Superseded my favourite Osmo Polyx by a long way. This stuff is tough!

Order directly from C-C, Google should find them. Tell them what its for, they may advise their worktop top-coat.

As a general rule of thumb on a complete overhaul, you’ll average around 1g saved per £1 spent.

There are exceptions, but as an average, on a decent spec to start with, its a fairly accurate model over the sum of all the parts you change.

It’s very similar to bikepacking gear in fact.

Fit one of their spiders and use any ring you fancy?

Just wrap a few turns of electrical tape over the yellow tape, keeping it nice and central.

Mat under bag for me.

Helps keep the bivvy bag off wet and dirty ground thus stays cleaner and breathes better. Can’t say I have ever rolled off and I’m quite a restless sleeper, esp outdoors.

YGM 🙂

Nice one cheers bol, I’ll have a looky

Welcomes

Another vote for 18bike. Not cheap ones, not expensive ones, just a nice middle ground at around £6 iirc. Service with a smile as always.

Normally yup.

The last Mach N Back forecast I saw was warm and wet. Still pondering on the sleeping kit.

PHD Minim 600, -16’C, 1.1kg, 5L Packsize

or

Minim Ultra +8’c plus Montane Down Jacket, around 700g total, 4L Packsize

Full length Neo-air, in a TN Photon tent

Alpkit PD800 or PHD Minim 600 depending on the conditions.

Inov8 or OMM for a lightweight pack. Gourdon is great VFM but quite basic. Probably more suited to winter use though, not such a sweaty back and weather-proof.

There are always sleeping bag bargains online, make sure you know what fill weight/power you require and keep your eye out. Outdoormagic clasifieds can be good, my £300+ PHD was £100 and in great condition.

Mark, are you saying the OS 1:50k Garmin mapping isn’t good enough to navigate by on their small screens?

I was looking at an Etrex 30 with the additional £200 OS UK maps for bivvy duties where I don’t want to be carrying several paper maps.

Lights to ride or camp?

Camp- Petzl E-lite which uses coin cells so I pack a few spares.

Riding- Exposure Diablo, 10hr on low or 3hrs mid, piggyback battery gives 4x that run time for when trips are likely to require lots of night riding which isn’t that often.

It’s my wife’s birthday. Maybe ill try and convince her on a family entry, our lad will be 3 1/2 so with 2yrs riding experience by then I’m sure he’ll be fine. He loves a muddy puddle even more than me after all 😀

Stuart I can’t believe it’s changed to June 3-4 for 2012, its the only weekend of the whole year I can’t do. 🙁

Best organised event I have done for years.

I have to dissagree, for my style of riding at least.

What springs to mind is I have ridden the same Cutgate Peak district rocky descent plenty of times this year fully loaded, both rucksack or framebag. With the framebag, the bike just handles like a heavier bike, whereas the rucksack had me lolloping out of balance on the steeper sections to the point I had to slow to regain control.

On steeper rocky decents a heavy rucksac is also be far more prone to having me over the bars, and on steep inclines it lifts the front wheel. I’ll admit the wingnut helps in overcoming this a little.

the weight is more central if higher

? 🙂 What, more central than when actually central?

Are you refering more to panniers vs rucksack?

It is better for tricky singletrack tho.

How?

I can’t think of any tricky singletrack I would prefer to ride with a heavy pack compared to a frame-bag/bar-roll combo.

Food weight is your biggest problem on multiday trips. If you’re relying on picking stuff up as you go then you’ll probably be fine.

It’s the cost that amazes me.

A few years ago I was ringing round to have mine changed, I forget now why but I was paying for it directly. Autoglass wanted £650ish, a local firm came within hours and charged £72, he even let slip the glass came from the same depot.

It’s no wonder insurance premiums are sky-high.

Montane Featherlite Velo H20.

No pocket, but then when I’m running the last thing I want is stuff jangling away in a pocket.

TNF Triumph or Marmot Essence if the pocket is worth the extra £30-40

Rab Storm – yup.

It’s a great bag, good size, good weight and very popular. There are no features to speak of it’s just a waterproof bag cover with a draw hood.

When absolutely soaked through I did end up with a lot of condensation once, but they all do that under certain conditions once wetted out. It’s roomy enough to allow a winter bag to loft, but you wouldn’t fit any kit in there too.

Packsize, I would guess you could squeeze it into a 500ml bottle at a push.

If its just the wheel bearings you only need 2 of the 5, the other 3 are for the freehub.

Be aware pro3 xc3 use different bearings to pro3 am4’s.

Stoner, Racing Ralphs and latex weighing 1700g?

Mine weighed in at 909g + 150gish of sealant.

Both the Use carbon Alien or KCNC seatposts are light and mid priced.