If you like cheap, light non UST tyres then Stan’s.

If you like heavier, expensive but sturdier UST tyres then 819’s.

Cotic Simple but,

Drop the rear wishbone by 1/4″ so it’s inline with the top tube.
Add lugged joints which you can personally shape before the frame is built up.

Thanks Daffy, but I’m sorted now.

Hi Daffy,

Thanks for the offer, are they an unused kit or have they been fitted and thus the olives already crushed?

White-spirits, just like golf grips.

Facing a bottom bracket will make a significant difference and the B/B isn’t alligned just by relying on the threads.

Considerably more important on HT2 Bearings.

Sounds like you were squeezing the pawl and spring into the same slot?

If there’s a head of natural trout, then sure as eggs is eggs there will be an angling club with dibs on it already.

£50 if in good nick.

Stif were selling them off new for £72 the other week

Can’t say there is a great deal of faff to be honest. Bolt up crank, turn the bearing collar, nip up collar – job done.

There is only about 2mm of threads on the collar though so you need to get the crank over a bit yet in order to load the bb bearings.

Motorcyclists have a perspex screen about 100mmx200mm to see out of. It gets dirty incredibly easy on the outside, and mists ups incredibly easy on the inside. A car using sidelights only in situations where all other car are on dipped beams makes the car look further away if your just doing a quick glance at a junction. Yes your rear lights are on to help people coming up behind you, but people waiting to pull out at junctions need to see YOU and accurately judge how far away you are.

If everyone drove sidelights only then it would be bearable, but for 1 in 20 to be doing it is stupid IME.

Oh, and the whole point of motorcyclists having their headlights on during the day is that it helps them stand out. If all vehicles have their lights on all the time as per the proposed legistation then they will no longer stand out!

By the time you have bought the hub, built the wheel and bought the disc adapter it doesn’t leave you much for the frame!

If I was looking for a van to sleep in then I would buy a high-roof model.

That be ‘lezyne’ then, sorry!

A ‘Leyzene’ sounds like it may fit the bill.

Expenive to service and can’t fit 8’x4′ in the back.

Is it for bike or work duties?

Original shape Flite ti.

Jase, it sounds like the threads have been clogged with paint. If you can run a thread tap through that would sort it out. A cheap one off Ebay would work fine for clearing paint. You could always Email Cy see if he will send you one to borrow, and a new unmangled bolt too.

Are you talking about the chain-tensioner bolts that are hard to turn?

If so you are releasing the hub first before trying to force it backwards?!

I usually pull the wheel back by hand and tighten the hub. I then simply screw the chain tension bolt lightly back into the hub to stop it from being pulled forward.

In your situation I would go for a 480L Hope Vision 2. Online about £150 and build quality is superb.

The Exposure range is indeed supurb, but their more powerful lights aren’t helmet mountable.

The Inbred has that solid do everything feel. The Cotic and Genesis have more Zing for XC which I prefer, and is similar to the old steel Kona feel.

The others I haven’t owned so can’t compare.

The above picture shows it with the axle spacer removed. This is exactly how it needs to be to pull off the freehub.

It should come off with a sharp tug as all your doing is pulling the freehub seal out of it’s groove. If it won’t budge then something is definately wrong.

What happens about the rebuild cost?

Whats wrong with a 1p zip-tie?

There is no way I would ride without something stopping the hose from grabbing between the tyre and fork. You’d only need one bump for the hose to be ripped out and your left with no brake.

I’m fortunate though in that the rigid fork I use has a hose guide up the leg about level with the tyre.

The 2mm washer that sits on the axle between the freehub body and the hub bearing is definately in there?

Looking at the above pic, if you simply pull off the freehub body (very easyit just comes off with a pop) just have a look to see if the pawls are all in working order (there are 4 so you would notice if one is looking odd) and that the washer is in there on the axle. The freehub simply pushes back on, but just be careful to seat the rubber/plastic seal properly.

Henry.

Man’s hoover is that. We’ve had ours 5 years and my old man has one nearly 20yrs old and still as good as new. Bags are about £7 for 20 (delivered) off Ebay and hold loads.

Will suck up c-cell battery’s without you noticing.

…..and also ruin the brazing if it’s a nice old lugged frame.

Go for Stan’s rims and go tubeless using any old tyres.

It will then end up a lot lighter than UST.

Going Tubeless on Stan’s was the best thing I can remember doing to a bike.

I suspect you won’t be using the post again anyway!

Turn the frame upside down and clamp the seat post in a vice, use the frame as a large lever. Be gentle if you value the frame.

Just imagine a normal freehub, just stubbier.

You will need to buy a lockring though as it doesn’t come with one.

It’s been a few years but it involves using a punch and mallet on the lockring to unscrew it (I vaguely remember needing a vice). There are loads of loose very small balls so don’t do it near the fridge 😉 Nowt inside but balls a few pawls and a large snap-ring that pops the pawls up.

The Shimnano one can be taken appart if you can be bothered.

I seem to recall Brant claiming no limits on rotor size.

However I would agree that the new Pro2 pawls are better than the older XC’s. Mainly because the old fridge suck moments are a thing of the past. The leaf spring makes more sense.

I think there is a lot to be said for well sealed serviceable cup/cone bearings.

I’m with Brother Will, ISOFIX is very secure if you have it. We have the above combination and to be honest I have never noticed any play or rattling. If it does rattle it certainly isn’t audible.

After your first trip out in the car with the diddy one, the last thing on your mind will be the seat/base interface!

What’s wrong with pedal power?

Resprayed and much fettled i0

Stif were selling off Black XC rears last time I looked at about £75 iirc.