The proper tool only pops the freehub & seal back onto the hub. It doesn’t seat the seal into the freehub groove.

Just use brute thumb force and be careful not to snag it on the pawls. Oh and get it the right way around!

Try adhere.co.uk they seem to make double sided tape for every scenario.

I pop-rivetted mine on, I I had to file the backs of the rivet though once done as they fouled the steerer inside the headtube. 2 minute job.

Be aware you won’t be able to fish any running water until June 16th. It’s the closed season atm.

Ponds are fine and you are better off learning the basics there anyway.

Top Tip; you can get most things on a lowish budget but get a decent fly line. £30 will get you something reasonable and will make a big difference.

18bikes offer 10% for subscribers on anything that isn’t a bike.

Not sure if a frame counts though. Doesn’t hurt to ask.

You will get a lot of twist using Revolutions on a 700c wheel. According to Roger M’s wheel-building book he wouldn’t recommend it.

On the Pro2 all 4 pawls engage at the same time giving 24 engagement points over one rotation.

On the Pro2 Singlespeed/trials hub however the pawls are offset in pairs giving 48 points over one rotation.

Much prefer the new style ProII pawls personally

Great link cheers Simon.

Bare no rings, newest style XTR,

XTR r/h crank 333g
XTR l/h crank 206g
XTR bb 93g

It clearly must depend on the type pf powdercoat.

Nitromors WONT strip anything done by the powdercoat company I use. Regardless of colour.

meths

I took my front wheel off at the weekend to strip the tyre to see what a years worth of sealant looked like and to clear it out for fresh stuff. I got a bucket of warm water and a hose pipe and gave it a good clean, came up spotless.

I put it back on the bike but the clean front wheel just looked wrong against the rest of the dirty bike. I looked at the bucket and hose and thought shall I?

So I did, I rode it a bit more and got the front wheel dirty again to match 🙂

Cheers for the links to the flite saddles.

£79.99! I winced at paying £45 for one kicking around my LBS last year, I’m pretty chuffed now 🙂

Ziggy, linky for the flite?

(Without embroidery naturally)

09 Reba Team for my i0 but if Merlin had that offer on when I got mine I would have got those instead. Poplock went in the bin after 10mins mind you.

Original shape Flite ti saddle.

Original MK1 EBB Tinbred.

IIRC those Brannigan crips aren’t the same as old. They certainly aren’t in that thick paper/foil bag either. They were indeed the finest crips ever.

Ridden mine as my main bike for over a year and love it. I’ll admit the frame is only original part left now, but it has always been a hoot to ride before I started upgrading.

The cheapish steel still has that lovely whip about it a-la old Kona.

Seeing as the frame is designed for 100-130mm forks they should be ideal!

Full bike in a hatchback yup, but Id be interested if anyone fits one in a saloon boot?

We have a monster of an old Lexus saloon (over 5m long) with a boot 64″ wide, 40″ deep and about 20″ high and I still have to take my front wheel off!

Issues- Mine weighed nearly a 1/4lb more than the oe paint.

Lovely to have an individual colour choice though.

I haven’t ridden gears for over 5 years and I have certainly never found it restrictive, nor have I ever held up geared riders because of it.

The Olympics run tubeless with the normal yellow rim strip and the appropriate valve. No ‘tubeless kit’ is needed as such.

You can use any tyre you fancy with a bit of sealant which also protects very well against thorn punctures.

Stan’s rims are brilliant. Never bothered with tubes after day 1. I was suprised how easy tubeless is with these rims and oh so light.

If your cash is tightish then be aware VW’s are top budget as far as vans are concerned, A Vivaro is by far a more ‘sensible’ option. My T5 80,000 mile service has just cost me £2500 (clutch,flywheel,ps pump,driveshafts,steeringsomething,fullservice….vat) I wouldn’t have paid it if I didn’t think the van was worth it mind you.

Tax is about £190 pa.

My 104ps T5 is about 4mpg more econimical than the 2 T4’s I’ve had previously and nicer to drive.

I was just lent a 130ps SWB while mine was being worked on and it was mighty quick.

Not sure what the prices are like at the moment as it’s been a year since I looked but 6k would get you a reasonable T5 if you can find a private seller with no VAT.

I had a vivaro for a year and to be honest other than being a bit dull and soft to drive it was perfectly fine. Unfortunately though an 8’x4′ sheet of timber won’t fit in the back and as a joiner this is a major upset!

Far right is me (green singlespeed) in the on-one jersey 🙂

I know it doesn’t help, but any shimano dealer should be able to get you a spare one overnight.

I suspect the pozidrive screwdriver may have ruined it, they are a philips head.

I got mine from 18bike. They ordered them in for me and it only took a day or two.

I got the front and rear set including freehub and it worked out considerably cheaper then CRC.

The only advantage of USD tyres is that they tend to be a bit sturdier esp. in the sidewalls. You still need to run sealant if you want puncture protection.

Not a problem for me as I’m only 65kg.

Not had one puncture since I fitted them and I know of several times when the latex has sealed thorns. Never burped even though I always run at 20psi.

You can always experiment without the sealant to see how well it works. They will last maybe an hour or so.

Are you running tubes atm? If you so will need to fit the yellow tape and the olympic tubeless valve.

No reason at all why your original tyres won’t fit straight on to the olympic rims, thats the beauty of Stan’s rims. You will need 80-100mls ish of sealant in there too though after you have got the beads seated.

Put plenty of washing up liquid around the bead and remove the valve core when pumping up. Once the tire beads have popped on, take off the track pump and with the valve core still out, stick in your chosen sealant with a 50p syringe from Ebay. Put valve core back in, inflate, then do the fandango dance with the wheel to slosh the sealant all around the inside of the tire.

See the Stan’s website for detailed instruction.

Despite there being warnings against it, I am running bog standard Michelin tyres with just the yellow tape and never had an issue in just under a year.

If your not using it then just don’t fit it.

Mine went in the box marked junk the day I fitted the forks.

Everyone is welcome, just tag along. I’d agree about the 10.30 being ride off time rather than aim to meet time.

Jon, you look like Mr Toad in your pic. Toot toot. 🙂 Are you parking at the Pines?

Looks like a good route plan as it takes in nearly all of the new trail + quite a lot more of the locals trails. Looking forward to it.

Something tells me you should have waited until the summer like the rest of us for when the large frames come back in stock!

It’s a nice build though, well done.

Are you going to organise a route then jon? You’re the man with the map after all 🙂

I’ll see if I can get over Jon. We’re on the breakfast run there this weekend so may not have enough points in the bag by the follwoing weekend 🙂

Why not support a local joiner and have them made to any design you fancy? They would also probably use a local timber supplier too.

The cheap Ebay one’s last me about a month in the winter, they even feel cheap. The expensive Ebay one’s are the £10 SKF’s which work out rediculously expensive.

I found the o/e (INA) Hope one’s a good compromise at about £5 each from 18bike.

FWIW, the genuine Hope tools are well worth the money.

The Osmo hardwax oil can take several days before it fully dries out. The colour can remain patchy until then too.

As a joiner I wouldn’t use anything other than Osmo now for higher quality work. Worth every penny.

Mine runs on semi sythetic, I find the wet clutch slips on fully sythetic. Oh no, thats the VFR400, my bad.

They run on greased bearings the same as any hub. Someone’s been winding you up.

1) Depends on how the worktop is fixed and if it is joined to another run. If it can’t come out, it can be cut insitu by hand and covered over with a specific metal end-strip which is a fairly painless job and if it’s up to a cooker you won’t see it anyway. To edge it properly with matching laminate you are likely to need the worktop out completely to get a saw or router to run along the full depth.

2) Providing you can get access to the fixings then quite easy. If you can’t get access then you need to drill the odd 35mm hole (35mm can be filled with a bog standard plastic hinge-hole cap to keep things neat afterwards) here and there through the top corners of the back to locate where it’s been fixed back to the wall. It’s also likely to be screwed up into the underside of the worktop.

You also need to make good 300mm by the sounds of it. You could buy an open fronted 300mm unit in matching material and create a tray-space if you can’t get a match for the doors.

Wall units are usually fixed to each other and are hung on the wall on brackets, again in the top corners at the back. Once free from it’s neighbour it should simply lift off. Easy to do but you may need to alter the cornice and light pelmet if its been fitted.

Use a skilled joiner or kitchen-fitter and it would be done in under a day.

Good point nick, I was referring to the Stan’s rims.