Olympic Rims
Revolution Spokes
Hope Pro2.

The beauty of stan’s rims is you also save 100g off each wheel with not needing an inner tube nor UST tyres.

Have just bought my second set of Olympics for a 2nd wheelset, first set still going strong after a year.

Surly steel for sure.

OP, be pleased to know your FSA headset is lighter than King’s £110 offering 🙂

(presuming that includes topcap/bolt and star fangled nut)

I’m hoping to break the magical 10kg when my Simple arrives in June.

SLR, Olympic Rims/rev spokes, Easton ec/ea90, XTR, Chris King, Mini X2 Pro, Racing Ralphs, foam grips ;-)……

Not sure if it will, but here’s hoping.

Merlin’s Racing Ralphs were the cheapest I could find at £59 pair posted.

Could find Fast Freds for £12 though!

Stuck on? Long fine screwdriver slid underneath along the length, run the red pipe from WD40/GT85 along side it, quick spray, twist grip and it’s off.

I’d take tubeless over either of them tbh.

It’s also more than 20g 🙂

I have both and like them both.

Charlie the bikemonger for Stronglight ally.

Velosolo for stainless steel.

After 10yrs on the singlespeed bandwagon I’m not convinced by the BMX chain thing myself.

Chris King ‘Fun-Bolts’. £35. Jesus wept.

Finally the Yanks understand irony with the term ‘fun’.

If any one is interested, Boneshaker Bikes in Harrogate had the frame on offer behind the till with about £100 off. Looked largish, it was a few weeks ago now though.

True, but not really the same though. Riding your own wheels is lovely.

I put in 32hole, are you on 36h?

A quick check on the DT calculator (assuming XT Disc hubs and the rims you list) shows an increase in 1mm on the front wheel spokes (259-260 & 260-261) and 1mm on the rear spokes (260-261 & 259-260).

In which case you will be fine. New nipples advised and going to 14mm nipples instead of the standard 12mm will add that extra 1mm you need anyway.

1st- Download Roger’s book from the wheelpro website, worth every penny.

A £5 Spokey (red) will be the first and only spoke key you will ever need. (unless your using far eastern or odd factory built spokes, but unlikely. They are superb, don’t be fooled by the price.

Practice lacing the wheel up with the spokes you have. You’ll get a feel for how long the spokes are you actually need. The spoke calculators are not as good as experience.

FFIW, I’m very suprised to hear that the new rim needs 3mm shorter spokes on only one side, are the eyelets offset on the new rim then?

If your running Stan’s rims for general XC stuff then sticking with non UST tyres will save a few hundreds grams and average about £20 cheaper per set.

For me, that’s the beauty of Stan’s.

You could always consider rebuilding a pair of Olympic rims with DT Revolution spokes onto your XC hubs.

Olympic rim £55 (£68rrp) Wiggle 343g x2
DT Revs £22 (£44rrp) CRC 169g inc brass nipples x2
Rebuild – ask a respected local builder for pricing, he/she may also supply the spokes at a decent price.

(Weights are accurate, not claimed weight btw)

Just a thought to save a few quid. Nowt wrong with Hope XC hubs.

Technically you want an undercoat then a top coat, but I find two coats of top-coat works a lot better.

I paint a LOT of MDF and for me I need to make sure it is done right as going back to a customer’s to put another coat on will cost me lost time. Only one coat of top coat over an undercoat isn’t 100% reliable for coverage.

FFIW paying the extra for Trade dulux satin-wood is well worth the extra money. I also rate very highly for coverage Layland’s Satinwood which is only £9.99 for 1/2 gallon at Screwfix but a lot more at the trade paint centre. Unfortately it yellows quicker than Dulux Trade.

£10-15 spent on ONE good brush (1 1/2″ my choice for skirting) will give much better results and will last years if taken care of. Cutting in is easier with a good brush too.

Bromley-bike website shows them.

Yes and Yes.

Ring Hope, they will provide you with a new spring.

If you look at your invoice it will say Parceforce delivery for tires. ParcelForce don’t deliver on Saturdays unless you pay the massive premium.

The good old days for CRC as I recall was oe shimano stuff that came in plastic bags and was always a lot cheaper than anywhere else. This is going back maybe 8 or more years though.

150g sugar
100g golden syrup
100g unsalted butter
250g good quality oats
Handfull of raisens
Handfull of chopped glace cherries
Handfull of chopped mixed nuts

One handy hint is not to over cook it. It can often look not quite done at the set time and even after another 10mins in the oven it can still look exactly the same, but unfortunately by then once it’s cooled it tastes all dry and nasty.

Work out what you want as your take home pay then work backwards from there with regards expenses, including things like no sick pay, no holidays, no bank holidays, periods where work will be slack, overtime.

Paul, the Kona came with a 27.0 and I rode it for about 2 years before changing it to a 27.2mm!

It depends entirely on the quality of the engineering. My old steel kona was specified as 27.0 but a 27.2 fitted fine.

I’d be very suprised if you can fit a coke can shim in bewtween 27.2 and 27.0 (In the real world, not maths on paper that is).

You need to give it a try, but if it is anything other than a snug fit, don’t.

The main-beam switch will go through a relay as the smallish switch can’t cope with the high loads headlights draw. They cost a few quid and it’s worth checking. It will probably look like a 25mm black plastic cube.

The 3 freehub bearings only need doing if the freehub has play. If just the hub has play (noticable at the rim) then it’s just the 2 6903’s you need.

Hope use INI and are avaiable from 18bikes for about £5ish. SKF are overpriced for MTB use IMO and don’t last twice as long. The cheap £1.50 Ebay alternatives lasted me about 3 weeks compared to about 6 months with the INI’s.

The Hope tools are inexpensive and well worth the money (again 18bikes can supply), I struggled to find sockets deep enough for the Pro2’s. Although mine is the 10mm bolt up axle which may be larger in diameter than the QR version. The old XC hubs were easy with sockets.

I have spent about 10yrs faffing about trying to knock them in straight using just a bolt. It always worked but was a bit hit and miss. After spending £15 on the Pedros tool I really wish I had done it back in 1998.

Screw on nut, slide over steerer, whack with hammer, job done. Perfect depth and perfectly straight. Perfick.

As myself and Mr Blazin have said, for screwdriving only, you can’t beat the mini Bosch GSR10.8V Li-ion SCREWDRIVER.

If you think you may need it as a DRILL too, then indeed the £100 Dewalt combi DRILL is a very good buy. Like the older XRP but not quite as high spec.

Using the speed control trigger on an electric drill for screwdriving isn’t great unless there is a lower gear option.

Scaredypants; most are like this, in fact the only one I have experience of that didn’t have slow start was a shocking £10 item about 10 years ago.

For reference, the actual weight of a pair of XTR sd’s exc. cleats is 329g.

Glad I paid £55 from Merlin last year now.

XTR for me. Shimano QR’s are a no brainer.

Powdercoat can be heavy, my Genesis gained nearly 5oz over it’s original wet paint.

I suspect it may have to go back to Hope. IIRC the racthet ring is theaded into the hub, so a) it will be flipping tight and b) you have nothing to twist it with.

As a joiner I use the Li-on 10.8V Bosch blue screwdriver (not impact wrench) for 98% of screwdriving up to 4″x10g screws.

I was amazed how powerful it was when I got it, I only thought I would be using it for small more delicate jobs but it’s very rare I ned something with more grunt, usually putting in something like 140mm 14g frame fixings.

Batteries last an acceptable time and charge super quick. Worth getting the double battery set though.

Check out the velosolo website for what they did with a set of £40 Deore cranks a-la Jones XTR.

As Vinny says, any cranks you want really.

The Pace is a lovely build but the angle that photo is taken makes the bike look absolutely horrible.

It’s a fair point about things that come down in price. Although it doesn’t happen as often though!

if you spend £10 to buy something but later it will cost you £15 to replace how do you stay in business if you don’t increase the price on old stock.

Although if you go back to the day they bought the stock, they paid £10 to then sell it for £20. The restock costs £15 and so the 2nd one has to sell for £25. Where is the problem, there is still £10 profit in either case. The £10 one hasn’t cost anymore to buy as they have already paid for it, so why make £15 profit on it?

Your taking the valve core out as you seat the tyre aren’t you?

Laying the wheel flat over a bucket is also good practice.

No problems with Stans rims and normal tires here using just the yellow tape. For me thats the great advantage of Stan’s rims.

As mentioned, using a tube to help seat the tyre for the first time is good advice. If only to help straighten out the bead after being packaged up for ages.

Cool. They must have been filmed in the last day or so with the rain as it’s clearly wetter than its been there for the past few months.

Put a light smear of grease around it and just shove it hard. Or run your thumbs round it going opposite ways. Ie start with both a 6pm and run left thumb anti clockwise and right thumb clockwise until the seal pops in at 12 noon.

I bought the F+R bearing tools and the freehub tool from 18bikes for £17 iirc and they are well worth it.