Yeah, and iirc you have about 4 other Whytes in the stable to choose from 🙂

For the first time I have really made the effort to spec. light parts instead of what looks ace. Unfortunately it does make you a little obsessive, and once it’s covered in mud it won’t make much difference anyway!

Can’t wait to ride it.

Rough Spec;

Cotic Simple frame
RC31 carbon rigid fork
Olympic on King with Revolution spokes (brass nipples)
Racing Ralphs
XTR cranks, steel c-ring and cog
Hope Mini X2 Pro’s 160’s
SLR saddle on carbon Alien post.
EC90 bars EA90 stem

I have an anal spreadsheet with all the actual weights of all the components!

All sensible kit, but I only weigh 65kg so I’m not especially harsh on my kit.

Dibb’s, just to make you feel bad, the actual weight (when the frame arrives) of my Cotic Simple S/S will be 17lb 10-14oz (depending on exact frame weight) exc. pedals and tyre latex.

And thats with sensible wheels and nothing out the ordinary spec wise.

By using UST’s you adding at least 1/2lb over their tubed equivalent (taking into account no inner tubes and a bit of latex via a Stan’s type rim)

The Reba Teams are 1636g without pop-lock so you save a chunk there. In fact well over 2lb if you had rigid Pace RC31’s!

Foam Decathalon grips are 1/2 the weight of Ritchey WCS or is that claimed weight(!) or is that each grip?

Egg-beaters will save 1/4lb for £175 ti versions or 1/2lb for £375 4ti versions!

You could loose over 1/2lb on stem, seatpost and saddle.

Trouble is it starts to get expensive, near to £1 per gram saved.

Although very good, the wheels/ tyres aren’t the lightest around either.

Are you using it for your road commute or off-road?

Gear ratio’s will need to be quite different unless your commute is uphill all the way.

For offroad try 2:1 as a starting point. Get a steel chainring as they last a lot lot longer. Any chain will do but most prefer a bmx chain, the KMC 610HX at about a tenner are my personal favourite for strength. I prefer 3/32″ over 1/8″.

Any cranks can be used.

Roughly how much pressure are you loosing over an hour?

If it’s very little then ignore it, the sealant will work it’s magic once it’s had a good slosh round.

FFIW my Racing Ralphs have taken over a week of being laid flat on either side before holding pressure 100%.

Ralph, I’m sorry I wasn’t trying to be a git.

I was refering more to using any type of ‘glue’ for sticking something to the outside of a tyre. The vulcanising solution actually melts the rubber together rather than a superficial adhesion you would get from normal glue.

Back on topic, I love it.

‘glue’ a patch to the outside of a tyre?

Vulcanising solution should be left to dry before putting the patch on. It should be ready use in seconds once it’s applied.

Vucanising solution doesn’t actually ‘glue’ patches on it bonds the rubbers together.

Your seriously trying to glue a patch to the outside of a tyre?

Out of interest when did you get the front hub?

Is it a 32h QR?

I’ve been waiting for Evolution to get mine for over a month, it came in 2 weeks ago but due to their incompetence my hub was sent elsewhere and I got posted a 20mm one. I have just been told it may be another 2 months before I can get another QR 🙁

Is that my hub?

Lugs must be easier too.

Although I may have imagined it, I seem to remember someone posting a link to an ebay seller with what your looking for a few months ago.

google Almax.

Having rearraged my garage I tried to ‘remove’ my Datatool one. With an angle grinder and a 24″ crow bar, I lost interest in trying after 1/2hour and decided to just ignore it and put my workbench over it. It was of the rawl-bolt + bearing wacked into head veriety. I was suprised how simple and effective this method was.

A 12mm eye bolt, unless welded, could be prised open in seconds with just a hammer.

Sit on a table and let your feet hang as naturally as you can. Look at which way they point and try to mimic it with the angle of the cleats.

That’s what I thought!

However I have just had an email from Wystanley’s to say they have dispatched my order for a pair of 2007 disc-only 440mm versions I placed on Monday when they listed them as ‘in stock and ready for dispatch’.

Sweet, it will be interesting to see what turns up. They had £25 knocked off too.

SS for 11 years and purely SS since 2003. 6 years without gears!

IMHO the Whytes have the best drop out set up for going s/s

Practical yup, but too large and ugly.

I find the simple horizontal dropout far more elegant.

Have you tried leaving it for several hours with an inner tube in on the Flow rim?

No probs for me with just the yellow tape on various tyres.

As I mention above, if it’s only a 5mm thread then I wouldn’t advise a lot more more torque than you can get with a 4mm allen key otherwise all you will do is strip the thread rather than the head.

Regardless of head shape, if they are only an M5 thread you won’t really gain any more torque. An M5 bolt is likely to have an 8mm hex head and most 8mm spanners aren’t 4mm going to be much bigger than your average allen key. The thread will strip before then anyway.

By ‘Same as bottle cage’ do you mean same size allen key or same size thread? I really struggle believe they are using M5 thread bolts.

Andy, that looks a very gentle ratio!

A lot of carbon stems are heavier than lightweight ally one’s. Easton EA90 for example is 128g actual weight in 90mm O/S version.

M5 bolts for holding the wheel tight? Your joking right, it’s no wonder they slip!

Do you mean a 5mm headed allen bolt?

www. stagonset. co.uk

Easton EC90 CNT.

128g for O/S, they’re narrow at 560mm though.

No rings or chainring bolts, my 175mm 970’s are 632g including the 93g bottom bracket.

No problems with XTR HT2 BB either and easy enough to regrease.

I seem to remember a few owners ditching the stock allen-head bolts and putting in something with a hex head so you can get more leverage with a decent spanner rather than an 80mm long allen key.

And get them through Roger at Wheelpro.

On my scales;

32 DT 14mm brass nipples are just under 32g.

32 Revolution spokes at 258mm are 137g.

Stan’s Olympic 26″ 343 and 344g.

Chris King ISO rear hub (ally freehub) is 335g
Chris King ISO front hub is 166g

So actual (not claimed) Stan’s Olympic on Chris King with Revolution spokes are; 1526g. (accurate to within 1.5g) Reduce to just under 1500 for ally nipples.

However these wheels don’t need an inner tube nor UST tyres. Just a 7g valve, a 5g yellow plastic rim-strip and about 50g’s of Latex.

Some of these manufacturer claimed weights look a little optimistic.

Hollowtech = hollow!

should i wonder about my portly 11st mass pushing it as a 32:18 SS?

32:18 hardly ‘pushing’ it 😉

Orange Evo your figures look a little optimistic, are they claimed weights or on the scales?

Your rear hub for example at 430g with QR (your QR’s you list as 232, lets say this is a 100f/132r mix) this means your rear hub is 298g which is lighter than Chris King and XTR.

Depends on what size you need, I need a 36T and On-one only do 32’s.

Ally for lightweight (approx 20g less) but may seize long term. Unless your racing or you enjoy rebuilding the wheels yourself, I’d go for brass.

Strength is no different.

JxL, have a look at the justridingalong website to give you a lowdown on Stan’s Rims.

Looks tall and short.