I see from your other postings you often ride from Willingham Woods. I live 5 mins from Caenby Corner, If you bring some decent biscuits your welcome to pop round and I'll get them seated for you.

I'm certainly no expert but I haven't had any problems with either Flow's, 355's or Olympics.

Put a tube in it overnight at 40psi, it helps to stretch the bead into place (and settle your yellow tape). Leave one bead still on when you take the tube out, plenty of watery soap on the open side and have another go with the track pump.

It's daft really because the shape of the fitting looks like it should never rattle, which I suspect was their intention. However the tapered pin isn't made accurately enough so the taper runs out and so doesn't press the dovetail into the mount to take up any slack.

If you see what I mean!

Coleman, wrap a few turns of plumbers PTFE tape around the dovetail fitting and your rattling woes will end.

My Pro3 SP XC3 (Stan's 355 rim) with 3 bolt 160mm rotors are lighter than the King/Olympic/Rev's & lightweight Mini floating 160mm rotors they replaced.

See Wheelpro website as Roger's price includes £10 of valves and £7 of Stan's rimtape.

It's just a short freehub body, what is there not to work? As long as you can get the cogs to build up to the correct overall width your laughing.

Mine fitted RC31's fine. They were '07 model forks if that makes any difference.

Not sure if On-one still do, but for ages they had their's for £10. Got myself a couple and they are no different to other team replica's that sell for £50.

If you have a look on the bicycle mania website they organise events and you can download some of their routes that take you over the Wolds.

A lot of the riding can get a bit sluggish in the wet due to the farmland type paths. Oh, and it's really quite hilly in the Wolds!

If your aware of the Belvoir routes, have you seen the Viking challenge?

I have just got a pair of Spesh Storm-Pro tyres from Rutlands. 2.0" winter tyre, folding, 495g on the scales and £25 the pair delivered. Sweeet, thats buy one get one free!

Not ridden them yet mind….

I use Olympics, Flows and 355s and never used anything other than just the yellow tape on various different tyres.

MisterP Re. XTR pedals, you need to hold the pedal body still (not the axle as all that will happen is it will all just spin on the bearings!) and turn the part mentioned, which is ally not plastic and has an arrow on it to show thread direction.

Facing post-mounts helps to ensure the caliper and pads are true in all directions, the mounting slots will only allow adjustments in one plane to centralise it on the disc.

2.4" tyres and 5' drops, the Flow's for sure.

The flow still isn't that heavy.

Swapping the velcro strap for 2 well spaced zip-ties for the torch side of the lockblock adds considerably more stability.

Personally I find the Fenix L2D a great mid-priced helmet light to compliment a barlight. Over 2hrs on decent recharchables, good beam pattern and considerably smaller than a P7 torch.

I use a modified BLT helmet mount for mine though because a) it was about £3, b) it offers more adjustment and c) it is more solid.

These wouldn't stop me riding with anyone, but my personal no no's

Incorrect size of zip-tie usage, an 8mm wide zip-tie really isn't needed to hold a disc hose in place. While we are at it, all heads but be rotated out of view and if in a row all heads must start from the same side and must all be aligned to each other. And they must be black, coloured zip ties do not look good.

Gear/brake hoses must be cut to the appropriate length. Just enough spare but without flapping in the breeze.

Seat QR must always run in line with the collar.

Stem and seatpost should match.

Brake lever bite-point must always be after about 5mm of lever travel.

Presta valves only. Front and rear stems should be of same length and have the same valve cap.

Headset spacers should always be under the stem and must all be of same type. Exceptions allowed for the 'just built' to check stem heights.

Accessory add ons should be kept to a minimum, preferably none at all. Mudgaurds never used on dry trails. Items left on from a previous ride which aren't needed on this particular ride should be removed.

Helmets. Selfishly I personally don't want to have my ride ruined by someone else falling off and bumping their head and needing to wait for an ambulance.

Lycra shorts and baggy tops (baggy shorts fine with lycra tops).

Baggy clothing on a road bike. You don't look like a real MTB'er at heart, you look like a prat. Just as someone turning up to play cricket in football kit would do.

Grips must always finish at the end of the bar, not hanging over the edge or mounted inboard. Endcaps must always in.

Distance from end of grips to brakes and/or shifters must be equal on both left and right hands.

QR's must be Shimano.

If your spokes weighed 895g either your scales or calculations seriously need checking.

DT Revs are about 130g per wheel.

CRC did give away sweets with orders in the not so distant past, around Xmas IIRC.

Lovely they were too, minty slices of rock.

I've just got the Topeak one and with 3kg's of kit on it, with the QR done up just average tight, it's as solid as a rock. Really impressed.

The £3.90 rim tape at Wiggle is actually £3.00 at Just Riding Along. It used to be clear but is now yellow to confuse things.

I think your getting it mixed up with the 21/25mm yellow tape for sealing Stan's rims which is the one that usually sells for about £10, and which Wiggle don't sell.

Could you not just use a fine tea-stainer and put the coffee in the boiling water a-la tea?

The yellow tape and 2x valve's Roger includes in his service are worth £24 alone.

Wheelpro is well worth the extra few bob, ime.

If your running a chain tug then just nip them up, nothing can slip forward!

But then Moots and Airborne aren't really in the same league!

Another nod for Wheelpro here.

Pro3’s are like a slightly lighter Pro2 and with funky looks. Bearings out the box seem to spin forever too, and if you read the blurb are higher quality in some way. Pro3’s are the nicest wheel’s I have owned inc. King’s, Pro2’s, XC’s.

Lynskey, like buses….

7907g so well sub 18lb. Could easily loose another lb if I wanted a bike that I never fancied actually riding.

I’ll stick with a nice big mug of tea with toast & mamalade if it’s all the same. After an intensive ride all my body and brain wants to do is ahhh and r e l a x.

You have to admire Gee Atherton’s plucky line choice!

‘If he was any more fluid he would be mercury’, yeah ok.

Oh, the pot is about the size of one of those mini drinks cans and although substatial it isn’t that heavy.

The Pace (dualco) one is well made but its a PITA to have to keep ramming a screwdriver up the base to keep the grease flowing.

You used to be able to get an identical one with a sprung shaft which had the rod sticking out the bottom. If you can get one of these they are ace, they used to be sold through Ison Distribution. Otherwise the one’s that screw onto a tube of grease would be my next choice as you can squeeze the tube as you use the trigger so it’s still a one handed job.

T5 104ps, 35-36 day to day, 38-39 good run. Worked out based on fuel used vs. millage done each time I get a receipt, over about 12 months of having the van.

I do very little traffic/town driving.

4 days too late to save me £130 🙁

Hi GSI-MAN, I didn’t know they did a lightweight/heavyweight option, although mine do look slightly chunkier to the one’s on the Hope site.

What is interesting,

The 24 Sapin spokes are 6g each with nipple
Rims are lets guess 355g
That leaves 186g for the front hub, which is quite heavy.

There is some crap spouted about weights. As mentioned in my original post;

I OWN and HAVE WEIGHED Olympics on Pro2’s with Revolution spokes and ally nipples. I OWN and HAVE WEIGHED the 355’s on Pro3’s.

The Pro3 wheelset IS lighter and they weigh 1506g WITHOUT ROTORS.

180mm 3bolt rotor is 127g
160mm 3bolt rotor is 96g
160mm 6bolt rotor is 78g

(The weights on the Hope website are somewhat optimistic)

My front wheels-

Olympic on Pro2 Rev/Ally + 160 floating rotor = 792g
355 on Pro3 + 3-bolt rotor = 780g

Just to reiterate, these are the actual weights and should be accurate to within 0.1%.

They are hardly the superlight wheels they claim, but even so they are still considerably lighter than XTR and considerably cheaper and look bloomin lovely.

Assuming you get them through Wheelpro you need nothing other than some sealant like Stan’s or JRA wheel milk. You can mount your existing Conti’s and just add the sealant to make them air-tight. Tubeless on Stan’s rims is awesome. You have nothing to lose by trying it other than a few bob on a bottle of latex. For me, tyres at 20-25psi is fantastic.

Total weight of mine which arrived today, are 1506g without rotors. This is ACTUAL weight which is lighter than my Olympic on Kings and Olympic on Pro2’s (both with DT Revolution spokes). What was suprising is that the 160mm 3-bolt rotor weighs more than the Hope X2 Mini-Pro 6-bolt floating rotor.

Comparing the weight to the race wheels reviewed in this months mag, they are lighter than wheelsets costing twice that of the Hope’s.

They are truely beautiful things.

Mine were through Roger and I would highly recommend his service.

My email from Pace indicates a custom geometry fillet brazed 853 frame including any RAL paint, with 953 stainless chainstay/dropout for £700ish.

I’ll be keeping my eye on this one for sure.

Download Roger M’s book from the wheelpro website and get the plans to make one yourself.

Not difficult and better than most you can buy.

Olly, it’s not a pillar drill 😉

Pedros Star-Nut tool. Whop, and it’s in.

Eggbeaters. Not sure if the cheaper one’s do but the higher end ones come with an adapter to screw into the axle end.

Not totally in love with mine though.

Oh, and on racing-ralphs the going was fine.