There was a thread last night about people wanting to swap……….

here…….

I’ve just done the same with someone on that thread – so maybe try there?

I’ve got a pair of specialized storms – sent you an email.

Andy

From memory I think the SID MoCo unit is shorter than the Revelation one, so it would “fit” but don’t think it will work too well.

Haven’t tried calling LoCo yet – was hoping he might pop up here…….

Bump for the daytime crowd

Any other advice?

Ah, mine are exactly the opposite – really harsh to get into their travel if set with air pressure to stop diving, or really divey feeling if set more small bump compliance!

Bit gutted really – my older 26″ dual air Reba’s were perfect! Not impressed with the newer solo air – especially as to change travel it’s a new air spring assembly too.

Not sure about it being bushings – had the forks apart a couple of times to see if anything unusual in there I could see and the lowers slid nicely onto the stanchions so going to rule that out for the moment.

I saw a thread on MTBR about removing the top out bumper (Or cutting it down a bit) to increase the size of the negative chamber but can’t really see how that will work?!

Seriously thinking of binning them off at the moment, just can’t get them feeling right. Either that or might end up doing a coil conversion somehow!

^
What he said!

5′ 10″ here, 32 inside leg. Medium camber 29er, medium/17.5″ carve HT in the garage.

Both fit perfect.

This is a 26er BTW – is the Butcher available in 29er flavour?

Yup! They’ve been OEM on 29er Spesh bikes in 2012/2013, but for 2013/2014 you can get them aftermarket. I first got mine mail order from hi-bike but have since got another from my LBS (they ordered it in tho – but said they’ve had a enough requests to get a few in as stock)

I’m running a butcher control up front and a purgatory control rear in 29er guise on my camber and on my carve (swap wheels between the two)

I echo OW’s comments above. Really happy with the set up, hopefully won’t need to swap to Storm’s this year!

Specialized tyres – light, cheap, tubeless easy – what’s not to like?!

Any shimano e-type front mech will work. Just need to take the BB mount plate off. You should have the DMD mount plate already attached to the frame.

The SRAM mount is S3 standard.

Looking at that I’d be VERY wary of using the forks now.

Bear in mind a cast structure isn’t the strongest structure, and there is now a fault in the casting, which will get worse. The lower mount is continually being cyclically loaded in tension (think about how the brake works – lower mount being pulled in tension under braking, upper mount being compressed) I’d be looking for some new lowers.

Sorry mate – don’t want to scare monger but I’m sure you like your face as it is. The forks won’t collapse but I’d bet the mount coming off at some point with the brake attached.

Hmm, makes it a bit murky then. You could try talking to them but I don’t know how far you’d get with a complaint – they might say something along the lines of “you should have done a trial fit etc before tightening etc / or you should have got a bike shop to fit them etc….”
Really? Did you actually suggest that? And when they have finished laughing, I imagine they will politely remind you to apply a ‘little bit’ of common sense & check first.

I’m sure the lowers will be fine. As others have said, just use some old, shorter bolts & ride the bike.

I’m sure you will laugh about it in days to come. It’s not the end of the world.

POSTED 32 SECONDS AGO #
Yes – I did suggest that. That’s why in my post I said you “could” and “I’m not sure how far you’d get” and that they may say about a trial fit (ie common sense – not wanging it all together straight away etc without checking the bolt length etc – which is what I do be it at work or at home when building something new)
It was in answer to the OP saying he might speak to ribble about it. I wasn’t suggesting they would go “sure, you’ve knackered your bike by fitting them without checking etc but hey, it’s ok – we’ll see you right……”

Seriously – the OP asked for some advice. People have given it. If it were me (or you by the sounds of it) you would have checked first, and put it down to experience that it was damaged post your efforts to fit it and not gone back to the shop to complain – as a lot of other posters suggested that the shop had got it wrong- etc but the OP didn’t and came on here asking for an opinion.

I see!

Hmm, makes it a bit murky then. You could try talking to them but I don’t know how far you’d get with a complaint – they might say something along the lines of “you should have done a trial fit etc before tightening etc / or you should have got a bike shop to fit them etc….”

I agree though – it’s pretty confusing why shimano have now reverted to using those conical washers.

And also – you don’t have this problem with 203 discs as due to the offset the mount bolts to the fork then the caliper to the mount, and with 160 it’s direct mount – it’s only 180 mounts that act as a spacer and the bolts pass through the mount into the fork leg.

Just to get this clear I’m not blaming Ribble but to fit 160 you don’t use an adapter.
There is no mention on the as that these are 180 bolts when you buy the brakes. If have bought bolts if I’d have known.

But did you buy them as 180 with the mount fitted? In which case shimano/ribble have sent the right thing, and expected you just to bolt the mount to the forks.

It’s not quite clear-cut that you can just remove the mount and it will all fit fine – which is a bit backwards really! Unlike when it was IS to PM….

Yup – they are……

That’s weird, ive ever seen Shimano bolts like those, we’ve got three bikes at home with shimano brakes, and ive fitted a few sets for mates and they all came with shorter ones with a black washer on em, and they’re all the same size regardless of what size rotor they’re running.

I know – all of my shimano brakes (including the ones you bought!) had the same length black bolts with a captive washer only my newest XTR ones (about 2 months old) came with the hateful conical washers and longer bolts!

The bolts are the correct length if if used with the 180 mount. If they were shorter and still used with a 180 mount you probably wouldn’t have sufficient thread engagement in the lowers.

If to think about it – the bolt needs to take up those washers, the mount and the caliper. If you aren’t using the mount you need shorter bolts or else the bolt bottoms out in the lowers (or cracks them – as you’ve found out – as they are cast magnesium alloy – which isn’t that strong really)

I’ve just popped to the garage and the bolts I have on my wife’s bike (160 rotor) are shorter than the ones I got with my xtr post mount for a 180 rotor

khani – Member
They’re not Shimano bolts..

Yup – they are……

See my post above!

Silly shimano – I hated them on my avids – one of the reasons I switched!

Yup – some new shimano brakes come with those washers!

Also – they only come with one “set/pair” per bolt which when fitted go between the bolt head and the caliper body.

My new XTR ones did. First thing I did was throw them away and use the “normal” older shimano bolts I had in my spares box!

Another vote for specialized storms here.

Control version instead of the s-works ones.

Often paired with a purgatory up front.

not a galaxy?!

I think the newest shap c-max comes in a “grand” c-max guise – maybe that’s got 7 seats?

I know the mk1 and facelift are def 5 seats.

I’d say the c-max is way above the xsara picasso! Much more refined and screwed together better!

I Had a Picasso as a stop-gap car (5 weeks) after selling my mk3 mondo estate ( and couldn’t wait to get shot of it!)

Turning circle of an oil tanker! Sloping roofline wasn’t as practical either.

And I’m not anti-Citroen – wife has a Berlingo multi space and that’s been great!

2004 1.8 petrol c-max here.

Economy is low 30’s…….so not that great……..but ours are mostly round town jaunts.

Yes – all rear seats come out separately. Can get some smart fork mount bike racks (got 2) that clip in the seat spaces. If I take a couple of seats out can get 2 29ers in ok (dropper posts compressed and front wheels out) plus plenty of riding kit.

Pretty good as a family wagon. Comfy, and pretty spacious.

Had an alternator die – which was about £230 just for the alternator! (Fitted myself but a bit tricky – engine is squeezed in)
Main problem is the alarm – can’t disable it, and every now and again it goes mental and sets off randomly every day?! (Working on that at the moment………)

bigyinn – Member
Wanted to go see it at Bournemouth Airshow at the weekend, but it was on display only.
Couldn’t find out when it was flying in / out, so didn’t go. Gutted.

Was cancelled at Bournemouth this weekend – luckily found out before leaving home……

The in-laws-didn’t find out in time – spent ages in traffic!!!

Nice one – cheers!

Pops in to garage to check looks for spare pawls in spares box……….

Think I’ll give it a whirl – after all, it’s completely reversible if its not working!

Cheers – look forward to the pics.

I love a bit of bike-tinkering me…….

Faster freehub pick up’s a good move IMO. I’ve been running my pro 2 evo’s as 48 point pick up (shortened two of the pawls by about 2mm) for the last 500 or so miles, love the almost instant engagement.

Intrigued – any pics? How did you do it?

scaredypants – Member
NB watery soap, not soapy water
POSTED 20 SECONDS AGO # REPORT-POST

You say potato, I say……potato

I use a mix of about 5:1 water:fairy liquid in a spray bottle. Never had any issues apart from that one tyre mentioned above.

Had a stubborn tyre that refused to play ball – bead was a bit baggy.

Usual tricks didn’t work – loads of soapy water, ghetto compressor etc, tube in first.

Ended up putting a webbing strap (like a baggage/luggage strap) around the circumference of the tyre. Worked first time.

It’ll help reduce the volume you are trying to work against with the tyre and also helps push the beads out to the edge of the rim. Obviously slacken the strap off as you need to inflate the tyre more……

Webbing strap now stored in the box with tyre levers/stans/pump etc for future stubborn tyres.

I use Astral couriers for work (I’m about 10 miles from bournemouth)

They might be worth a try? We’ve never had any issues with them for work stuff before (defence and military stuff)

http://www.astralcouriers.co.uk/%5B/url%5D

Yeah, re-reading the thread Robin was using a GS mech.

No harm in trying it, and if needs be I could buy an SGS mech if it doesn’t work and flog the GS on.

Glad to hear its working well for you so far!

Cheers!

Arse!

Hmmm, maybe you’ll see a nearly new SLX GS clutch mech on the classifieds within the next couple of weeks……..

Rob,

Are you running a medium cage (GS) or long (SGS) cage?

Been reading up and on MTBR forums someone suggested the 42t cassette runs best with an SGS cage. I’m currently running a GS cage

Thinking of ordering one from bike-discount this week, and would rather not order a new mech too if I don’t need it!!!!

Specialized storm.

TR (2bliss) – go up on stans with a track pump, light and grippy, and cheap! Approx £30 each

Go for the control casing rather than the s-works (too thin)

Yup – new whites level climb (lower trail) and descent (higher trail) at glyncorrwg

Cheers Robin!

robgclarkson – Member
Robin, I’ll be doing the 42t (when it arrives) on an XT cassette so any pics/tips on how you set yours up would be a great help!!!!
Either pics on this thread or my email address is in my profile…
POSTED 6 MINUTES AGO # REPORT-POST

pics on the thread please! Very interested to see how it’s working/set up etc (and the Dremel work too……)

Northwind – Member
andysmiff1 – Member
Plenty folk not finding that to be the case with XX1
For me the works ring has proved more effective than a top-only chainguide. even if it turns out not to be a 100% fix it’s still going to be better than the old options which folk found satisfactory

Oops – I only meant to ask where Rob had ordered his adaptor.

No experience yet on a thick-thin ring to comment on their performance……..

If this setup is comparable with xx1, & let’s face it, that’s the point, then you should not need any kind of chain guide or device… My adapter will hopefully be here by this weekend and will be put to use/tested in the lakes straight away

Rob – where have you ordered yours from?

Looking at getting one at the end of the month……..(payday!!!!)

If you can up your budget – I’d go hope hoops.

Hope hoops with Arch EX on my 29er camber – so far so good!