^^
This – did the same on my camber – no problems at all.

Piesoup –

I’d be interested in one too if you are doing a run? I’m using a bell super helmet with the gopro mount on my SSX2.

Happy to bung a few quid your way or donate here (or to a charity of your choice)

Andy

There is – it’s hidden under the foot bolt on the air side. Undo the foot bolt, and shine a torch in there – the core of a schraeder valve is hidden in the air shaft. Depress it and be ready for a little bit of oil to be shot out!

EDIT – beaten to it!

Yup – just updated the iPhone app – now gone all screwy

Andywill – yup, sorry mate – I’ve used them.

Thought you were after the new to new type bolts.

A

EDIT – I remember seeing somewhere (maybe MTBR?) that someone had modified the hooked shifter to be like the “new” non-hooked shifter and managed to use the bolt arrangement in the lower right picture?

EDIT #2 – maybe this might help? Not sure…….

Clicky

Andywill – I might have a set in the garage.

My levers are all I-spec A – but they came with both sets.

I’ll take a look later when I get home and if so – I’ll post back here to let you know!

A

Tried the Bell Super at another LBS on way home – fitted well, liked it – (but not the colour they had in my size) so they’ve ordered the one I want in.

Happy days.

Now to get a go pro base mount to fit to my light unit for night riding duties! (Nice extra feature)

^^^^ This

Got mudhuggers on 3 bikes – no problems to report on any of them.

Although – I did do the heat-gun trick that they suggest on the fitting instructions to help shape the guards better to the contours of the fork arch (mainly to help improve tyre clearance though)

Popped to the LBS at lunch – bit of a limited selection, so gonna shop around.

Tried a Bell stoker – much like my feature, as posted above – however it seemed really “wide” so not too sure.

Think another LBS about 10 mins away has some supers in so going to take a detour home.

Cheers for the suggestions so far.

Quite liking the idea of a Bell Super (thinking of using the go-pro mount as a light mount?) as an option – anyone got one and what are their experiences/views?

A

Outside of actually being at the event, a little voice in the back of my head says “that would be a cool, really challenging thing to do”. At the event, I couldn’t even consider it. I don’t have enough kudos to give to soloists as much as they deserve.

I kind of said jokingly I’d love to have a crack at it solo after a couple of attempts as a team of 4 – I didn’t realise the guys I was with were listening seriously?!

First solo this year – much better course for it than last year, and weather played a massive part in me doing ok (if it was a little too hot at times!!!)

Definitely going solo again next year, had a target this year which I exceeded – so setting next years target already!
Really great time this year, much better atmosphere – and having proper trackside camping made all the difference – the support from everyone cheering you on makes it worthwhile to dig deep when you feel your legs just can’t take anymore!
All the marshals and spectators who encouraged and cheered us all on – THANK YOU! – you were amazing

Phew!

Now to decide my target for next years solo attempt!

rOcKeTdOg – Member
Really enjoyed the course, all rideable but still tough over multiple laps, good mix of climbs & descents with lots if overtaking places. Of course the weather played a big part.
Heard rumours this might be the last one

Last one – if so I’m glad that I did it solo for the first time this weekend then!

Singlespeed_Shep – Member
what’s the crack with the Red Bull downhill section only being on for 6 hours?!
+1
There will be arm wrestles in our team of ten for who goes out in that slot.
Nice video of the course on Vin cox’s facebook, Mud-x’s will def be on my bike.

Any chance of a link?

First crack at Mayhem solo for me this year – been a team of 4 for last 3 years!

Yup – I was miffed too when I fitted mine and found I had to buy them separately!

I got mine from Petra cycles – think I paid something like £4 each.

jsync – Member
The direct mount 2×9 you need is a M665. I bought one for my camber a few months ago for a 22/36 setup (also M665)
POSTED 38 MINUTES AGO # REPORT-POST

Sadly not – the “direct mount” used by specialized is their DMD mount – which is just an e-type mech with the BB plate removed – so it won’t fit in this situation

That’s the trouble with these “standards” that all share the same name……

LoCo – Member

Revs as the damping is better (rebound mainly)
The new top caps should be available soon which will allow fitting of the air tokens to get the air spring to ramp up better too as the air spring can be a touch linear.
Have a 2 week old set of the RCT3s which had the new top cap fitted, but still need a couple of spacers to get it just so as running them at 110mm (29er) and still a touch linear with 3 tokens (can take 6 max in that spec.!)

Apologies for thread highjack…..

Loco – cool – looking forward to the new top caps being available – any idea on when? And do they come with tokens too – or do I need to buy them separately? Can you update when you get some in as I’ll want two sets……..

Will they fit a 2013 Solo Air Reba? Set at 110m? I’m still struggling to tune them as I want – the correct air pressure for approx. 30% sag leaves them too soft and “divey” – to counteract that with more air they feel “dead” and” harsh”

Yeah, def available to buy.

I’m sure I saw someone on here selling one a few months back – might be worth a search and e-mail to see if they still have it?

A

You need a DMD adaptor. It’s to fit an e-type mech with the BB plate removed.

I needed to get one for an epic frame I picked up that didn’t have one fitted.

Local Spesh dealer ordered one in – took 2 days, was about £7

A

You can’t fit the end cap after the cassette lockring – the lockring ID is smaller than the end cap OD…..

You sure about that?
Can’t say I’ve ever had to remove my cassette to get my hope end caps off, be they QR,10mm,135×12 or 142×12 (has them all on these wheels)

Yup – definitely sure. Pro 2 Evos and shimano cassettes – only just foul each other, but they do. (Have 135×9 QR, 135×10 and 142×12 axles too)

Might be wrong on the saint tool (but my shimano one definitely fits.

And yes – saint hubs use a lockring to hold the rotor on – centre-lock.

You can’t fit the end cap after the cassette lockring – the lockring ID is smaller than the end cap OD…..

I ended up turning my end caps down a fraction on a lathe to clear the lockring as one frame is 135 spacing and the other 142 – and I share wheels between the two! Was a faff to keep removing the lockring every time I swapped bikes!

Although – as above – the Park tool had a deeper engagement than my old tool, however I used a shimano one designed for saint hubs that use the lockring to hold the rotor on!

dave_rudabar – Member
Til recently was this;

POSTED 1 DAY AGO # REPORT-POST

Dave – were you a Hurn, Culdrose or East Midlands guy?

Alpha Foxtrot was the last Falcon I worked on at Hurn before transferring to Cobham Mission Equipment (FRL) in ’03……

Favourite toy at work for me at the mo is this:

I don’t think it’s meant to cut it down in height – my impression was to change the size of it (it’s conical – I imagined them to replicate the height but reduce the volume – but I could be wrong!)

Saw your thread about the “bottomless token” for 32mm forks – got a spare topcap so tempted to try it myself. Read on MTBR that RS were thinking of doing a proper version for 32mm forks – would like to find out more!

I’ve got a 2013 camber but built it up as an evo – 120mm fork, wide bars, short stem, dropper post etc.

Have tinkered with the shock (removed the spacer that limited it to 110mm travel so now has 51mm stroke instead of original 48mm) giving 120mm at the back too. No issues with tyre contact etc.

Coupled with an offset bush at the front of the shock (can’t do back end due to the clevis) it’s as close to an evo version in build and geometry as possible without changing the shock yoke to the evo version (if you could buy it separately) and I love it! Really happy with it.

Have an epic 29er frame incoming this week to build up instead of the HT so may end up swapping out to a stumpy or enduro to cover bigger stuff though.

I’m 5′ 9″ and on a Medium frame.

Bigjim – it’s under the foot bolt on the air spring side (so left stanchion as if sat on bike)

You’ll probably find some oil will spray out when you do it so best to have wheel out so you don’t get anything on the rotor.

I’ve found a good thread on MTBR – I’ll post a link – about a mod to the top-out bumper to increase the size of the negative air chamber – about improving small bump response. Not tried it yet.

MTBR link

Post is towards bottom of page – poster is ole

Solo air does have a second schraeder valve “in” the air spring rod. It’s hidden under the foot bolt.

Somehow – and I’ve not worked out how – the negative spring can become over pressurised and “suck” the fork down into its travel. This has happened a few times on my solo air reba’s. Releasing the pressure from this valve allows the fork to re-extend.

So yes – you only fill the air spring from a single valve at the top and the transfer port machined in the stanchion does allow the negative side to auto fill,

I’ve still not managed to fully dial my solo air forks in as well as my old dual airs though. Correct psi gives a harsh and dead / non-compliant ride – correct pressure to get right sag leaves them very “divey”

Tempted to convert to coil still…..

Got a 2013 camber – alu frame though – and as above, opened the hole up.

From memory it’s about 4.5mm as standard, and a reverb hose is 5.5mm

Used a hand reamer to give a nice clean finish. (Benefits of working in an engineering company…..)

Can’t see how they will ever tell I’ve done it (without measuring) if I ever needed to warranty the frame.

Newer ones with the revised internal routing just uses guide ports/blanks which are plastic so much easier (and less scary!!) to do than the actual frame.

Cool – thanks!

Just “acquired” (don’t tell the wife?!) another frame that I’m thinking of freshening up!

Renton –

How much did fast lane charge you for the turner?

Did you have to strip the original finish or did they dip it?

It says compatible with XT or XTR cassettes – anyone know why it wouldn’t work with SLX?

Is it because the cog you need to remove is part of the riveted lump on SLX – instead of separate on XT/XTR? – if so, what’s to stop you splitting the cassette down by removing the rivets and re-assembling?

Have done that on other cassettes before to tweak gear ranges/steps.

Bumping this as I’ve got exactly the same problem!

Have done an oil change, followed the guidelines on re-pressurising it to the letter.

Rock solid apart from at full extension.

It’s only on the hardtail but have gone back to a normal post temporarily until I sort it but missing the dropper post!

Hi Derek,

I’ve got a brand new air top cap from a spare revelation air spring assembly if you want it?

Brand new – never used.

My email is in my profile if interested. Can post tomorrow for you.

Andy

http://bit.ly/NpgtvV

Randomly was looking for other stuff on eBay and found this – might be helpful for you……

I got one from one of the German bike shops (think it was bike.discount) as I couldn’t fine a UK seller anywhere.

That was early last year though!

enfht – Member
From memory the cover plate is already incorporated into the lever body. Small round thingy. No need to buy separately.
POSTED 2 MINUTES AGO # REPORT-POST

Not on the newer shifters.

M770 have them tucked behind the windows. Newer M780’s don’t.

I ordered mine from Petra cycles – about £3 each? Was early last year.

Yup – 2 series 2 parallel config.

Just built one myself after the original died a very wet death……

Tracey –

Got a link for that seatclamp or do I need to see a specialized dealer? My Spesh frameset didn’t come with one…….

Thanks,

Andy

Yup, aware of the damping controls etc – just can’t get them feeling “right”

Correct air pressure leaves them feeling dead/harsh on small stuff – too little pressure to counteract that leaves them very divey……..

Yeah, aware of the difference of stanchion diameter – more interested in height so can gauge approx dimensions for 32mm version…..

Same here – both ’13 solo air Reba’s and Rev’s…….

Thinking of bonding an old rubber travel spacer into a spare topcap I’ve got……

Give it a go on one pair of forks to see if improves matters – then start fine tuning.

Anyone know the dimensions of pike bottomless tokens?