I’m running 120mm on my ’13 camber 29er. Happy with that, slackens it out a bit.

Have tried the ’13 100mm reba’s from my carve on it to see what it’s like – prefer the 120mm.

Don’t forget that ’13 onwards RS forks can’t be adjusted with the travel spacer – need a new air spring assembly. If you want easy internally adjustable RS forks look for anything ’12 or older (reba, revelation etc)

Remember that 2013 onwards can’t be spaced and need a new airspring assembly to reduce/increase travel……

Some of the recon’s still have the old style airspring you can space (at least my 2013 ones did?!)(my 2013 reba’s definitely needed a new assembly)

I’ve just used a Park glueless patch on mine – tiny leak at one of the seams. (Charge LR reservoir)

Holding up fine so far!

Edit – too slow!!!

Jon,

I’ve got a L/XL (it’s more of a L really) Macmillan/Dorset Bike Ride one (it’s in the macmillan green and white)

I’ll ping you a picture when I get home (is your e-mail in your profile?) to see if it’s what you want?

More than happpy to loan it to you and you put the money saved in to the collections pot.

Cheers.

Andy

YGM!

Andy

Front 15mm and rear 142 are just push in and held with captive o-ring.

20mm fronts are held in with circlip.

The survivor + catalyst is pretty much the same size as the lifeproof, and I’m happy size-wise with it (not felt the need to take it off for everyday use)

Yup, it looks like eBay and amazon are full of fakes – I’d say if its under £40 it’s probably a fake! Think they retail around the £55 mark?

A mate has a lifeproof fre for his iPhone 5 – he likes it apart from the screen protector.

Lifeproof are just releasing a new version – the nuud. Still waterproof but without a screen protector.

I’ve just got a Survivor + Catalyst, and so far so good! I prefer the integrated screen protector to the lifeproof one, and it’s not massively bulky – and fully waterproof.

I’d avoid the lunatik Taktik – had one and destroyed it within 6 weeks!!

I used alcohol gel (hand cleanser stuff)

Works really well!

Rockshox changed the seal kits to get rid of the oil seal (black) to reduce stiction. My reba’s and revs didn’t have the black oil seals. Old pikes did, and I junked them – did notice a difference to stiction, much more supple.

Rosberg keeps the win – only got a reprimand instead of a time penalty.

Would have been a shame if they had demoted him – reckon he’s really showing how capable he is against Hamilton at the moment – his arrival is keeping Nico on his toes.

Rosberg under investigation for not slowing under yellow flag conditions?!

Yup, new climb and descent for White’s level at Afan/Glyncorrwg

Rode it Monday – climb seems a hell of a lot quicker/easier then the old one. Descent was quick – and loose, very dry/dusty!

I’m running a Purgatory 2.3 29er up front (control casing) with a Ground Control 2.1 29er (control casing again) out back on my Camber and on my Carve (swap wheels between the two) and all good so far! Cheap, tubeless easy (just a track pump on my Arch EX’s) and good performance. – what’s not to like?!

Been running Spesh tyres for past 3 years now – can’t rate them enough!

Might go slightly quicker rear tyre (fast trak) if we get a summer that warrants it – if not the Storms are going back on!

No pictures but I’ve got one!

2013 carve comp, now running hope hoops, 1×10 XT and some reba RLs – only stock part now is the frame!

Bought it on the ride to work scheme in January with a plan to try 29ers – now only run 29ers!!!

Love it – so far it’s my most ridden bike this year. I’m 5′ 10″ and run a 17.5″ frame

Currently running a 2.3 Purg up front and 2.1 Ground Control out back on my 29er camber.

Ace tyres – Purg nice and grippy, GC relatively fast rolling and still grippy enough.

Rode Cwmcarn on the camber this weekend, really happy with tyres, and just done my local loop with same wheels on my Carve hardtail.

Managed to tubeless them on stans rims with only a track pump too – no issues with Spesh tyres at all – only just taken the Storms off now we’ve seen sun……..

Northwind – YGM

No worries!

Bolt that back on to the bike with one bolt at the back, then the two bolts for the e13 go thought the e13 mount and the DMD plate.

I didn’t need any spacers on mine – lined up perfect with no rub on an XT crank, but you should have the e13 offset plates if you need them for fine tuning.

Let us know how you get on!

Hmmm, that doesn’t sound right?!

Mine was an S3 mount and fitted straight on! Have you got the specialized DMD plate fitted to the bike before you fitted the e13?

Looks like this –
Mount

Yup, I’ve got one!

Bought the base model in march on a deal from my LBS.

Stripped it completely and sold off everything as had a full XT group set waiting to on and some 120 forks. New wheels arrive today.

Very happy, sold my 26″ camber pro to fund it, not regretted it.

Perfect for my kind of riding now, light since I’ve swapped the stock kit out.

Thanks for the offer but think I’ll pass on the rovals.

Thinking hope hoops due to the hub versatility and support. Would you go hope hoops or a custom build?

Thinking arch EX might be the best rim to go off for all round use?

Budget is relatively wide – enough for crossmax’s (at a push!!)

Good to hear that you have tried both.

Was thinking arch ex on pro 2’s rather than crests – weight difference is minimal for the strength difference between them.

Crossmax added to the list!

Yeah, a bit steep but the quality of the e13 is way above the superstar – had one of those on another bike and the e13 is far far better!

I’ve been running the e13 one that bolts on in place of the front mech on my camber running 1×10 – no issues at all!

I think it’s called the S3 mount? Got mine from CRC.

Ah, yeah – maybe a bit pricy!!!

I’m sure there are loads off 10mm all travel spacers knocking about – good luck and hope it works out!

I think it’s worth a shot to see if it works – a simple 10mm spacer is easy to knock up or get hold of.

I’ve got an old 20mm rubber spacer from a pair of solo air forks that you can cut down to try it?

Drop me your address – e-mail in profile and i’ll send it off tomorrow if you want?

If it works then great, problem solved – and if it plays on your mind you could try and track down the proper damper shaft later.

The u-turn is effectively a screw – as you turn the knob the spring rotates, and the spring rod is fastened in place to the lowers. As the spring rotates it moves up and down the rod, effectively shortening or lengthening the rod. The spring itself doesn’t change length.

Does that make sense? So if the 150mm u-turn spring is wound down to 140mm, it effectively shortens the spring rod that is attached to the lowers.

When you do this you also start to move the rebound shaft up in its travel as its fixed to the lowers.

Hence why you can’t adjust the travel with the fork locked out as it stops the rebound shaft moving up inside the damper leg due to hydraulic lock.

Which takes me back to my original point – if the damper shaft is longer than the spring rod, you may end up stretching the spring out.

Looking at the 2013 spare parts catalogue the uppers are the same – across both 140mm and 150mm DPC’s

But……

The rebound damper shaft is different! Maybe that is the root cause of the problem?

If the rebound shaft is shorter on the 140mm ones your get the same effect – the spring may stretch out that extra 10mm?

Maybe a spacer under the top-out spring on the damper side to shorten the rebound stroke as a bodge to check?

Easy way to check – lowers off – pull the rebound shaft all the way down and measure the length of the exposed rod to bottom of stanchion and compare that to same measurement on the spring side.

If you bought them as an upgrade and not as part of a bike, the blanking plates should have come in the box.
Looks 10x better without them.

Unless you bought them in a bag like I did from CRC – ex OEM ones!

Yup, just 2 screws.

Petra cycles sell them – about 3-4 quid each (unlike 770s that had them included)

We’ve got parrot MKi9200 ones in both cars – absolutely brilliant.

Bought as they can play all your music on the iPhone/iPod controlled by the remote.

As a hands free it works great, and the iPod control tipped it for me. Only originally bought so we could play music in the car without changing head units for aftermarket ones, but now use the hands free function loads too.

Pricey, but well worth it. Got ours on eBay and fitting took me no more than an hour per car.

Andy

Check the one in the baseplate – I just nicked mine enough to let air past when re-installing the air spring assembly after removing a travel spacer.

I couldn’t see any damage to mine until I stripped it down enough. First thing I knew it had gone was after trying to pump the forks up and the scraper seal on the stanchion popped up.

Andy

I’d say that’s the top-out bumper to prevent the “clunk” on top out. My reba’s had a similar fault to yours – was the o ring in the baseplate between the uppers and lowers – the o ring seals the spring leg/rod.

Don’t know the part number as had spares from a donor fork anyway.

Andy

Yup, should work ok!

Only thing is that steel stanchions have a different internal diameter to the aluminium stanchions so as long it’s analysis older argyle (newer is alu stanchions) then you’ll be laughing!

Andy

Frank’s tank route is pretty knackered at the mo – the weekends rain won’t have helped…..

I think it needs a voluntary closure for a bit to let it recover – its pretty chewed up and having more mtb rides over it in this state won’t help it (or make mtb’ers more popular!)

Andy

Primera always gets my vote!

MTB stuff in the “Poole” store, Road in the “bournemouth” store (both are just out of town)

Clive and Vince at Poole are brilliant guys – really helpful!

Andy

Shameless plug…..

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-rockshox-sektor-u-turn-110-150mm-with-revelation-lowers

Email in profile.

Andy

In addition – I built mine up with u-turn sektors, set at 120 for general use but could wind out to 140 if I wanted to have some fun, wide bars and short-ish stem.

Ran it 1×10 with XT and a reverb, and it’s the only bike that has come close to my old 2004 specialized SX – the only bike I wish I’d never sold!

Hence decision to buy the 29er Camber – here’s hoping its as good as the 26er was/is!

Andy

Have sent a pretty detailed description and lots of pictures – if they don’t arrive as e-mail might be quite large let me know and will send smaller pictures!

Andy

Will ping some pics across now!

Andy