http://www.tech-mavic.com/tech-mavic/technical_manual/data/index.php

user name is mavic-com password dealer

Quick search found this. If you stick crossmax service in google there are some good vids which are helpful

Yeh what ian says unless the importer is overstocked you won't see many bargains. Dura-ace 7800 stuff is still a similar price to the 7900 gear still. Shimano want people to by the newer group obviously so they control stock and price of the older gear

Has the rear mech got the rubber coat on? If not that can clunk against the chainstay. If it ain't your brake hoses I'd be looking at shock and pivots for a dodgy bush or bearing.

No Lowers, cycle the damper rod whilst the bike is the right way up on a stand or something so any oil left in there is released and drops out.

Foxyriders instructions are good stick them in your favourites for next time.

As said just cycle the damper rod to get as much out as possible, then put in the fox volumes(its not that critcal if your slightly over)

Yes they are a bit slower.. but not slow by ribble standards. Price of success I guess. Merlin and wiggle usually next day still. 😉

Mk's are chocolate avoid if your're going anywhere near rocks. Schwalbe fat alberts are very robust and a great tyre up here in the lakes. I run the 2.4's which weigh just under a kilo but the 2.2's will get you well under.

XT equivalent is Ultegra being the next down from XTR Dura-ace in the range. Shimano stuff is great shifts well and is smoother than SRAM Campag IMO. Others will like SRAM or Campag for different reasons, to be honest they're all pretty good.

Blacksail has some big hits at the top in the steep section. Skiddaw is laced with sharp slate especially if you're going off the front to Ullock. Borrowdale Bash…..well the name says it all dunnit! Its definately not a non issue but as said it depends how you ride. 😉

Or smooth style 😉 or slow 😛 Tehehe

Yes KMB have lots of tyres in stock. Maxxis etc

The 2.4 Albert is a big tyre it only just clears the rear end of my epiphany.

Depends how hard you ride really, the NN and RR have lightweight carcases if you rode here all the time they wouldn't last long at all. Seen a lot of ripped sidewalls on NN and similar. My tyre of choice at the mo is the Fat Albert 2.4 UST. Mates just ditched a nearly new Highroller 2.35 Lust, as that was ripping every time we went out, so they're a little too lightweight IMO. That said the trails are super fast and grippy at the moment so that obviously means the tyres get a harder time.

Freeridenick takes a good photo or two

Gallery[/url]

Compact is a double chainset with smaller rings.
Medium GS mechs are for triple.
You can use the newer shimano short cage mechs up to 28 on the rear.

Did you hike up from Goldscope Mine (the valley between High Spy and Hindscarth) ? Never, ever, ever contemplate trying that out as a descent – we tried it a few weeks ago – it was bobbins

We went Little town, up Maidenmoor which it rideable except the rockstep above Black Crag across to High Spy then down to the tarn up Dalehead(nasty carry!!). Along the tops to Robinson then down to Buttermere and back up Rigg beck or Death valley as we call it when the suns out!! Cracking ride

ParkedTiger that's going up High Spy init? Mate had a over the bars incident near that point on Sunday, fortunately he's Ok, waiting to see the footage as he had a head cam on, should be a giggle. 😀

Headset might be slightly loose or worn allowing the oscillation to start at certain speeds. Dragging the front brake can sometimes set it off as it rakes the forks back slighty under the bike. Can be very very scarey, had it on the Fred Whitton on knocking on 50mph on Kirkstone 😯 though I was going make a contact fit with a drystone wall!

BETD

That sounds more like the new chain and cassette don't like the old jockey wheels. If it was a stiff link it would only happen once every chain rotation, not constant movement you describe. Jamies right make sure the B screw is right, but if it was right before it shouldn't need re-setting unless its a different ratio cassette.

Shouldn't be. Best way to check the chainring suck is to ride the bike with someone watching to see if the chain is pulling up, its difficult to see it for yourself and often won't do it on the bike stand as there isn't any tension on the chain. It only has to grab a little to create the clicking noise.

If the rear mech is jumping about its often cos the ring on the chainset is too worn(usually middle) for the new chain, causing it to suck up round the ring slightly then release. You get a click as the mech bounces back to position. Or your jockey wheels could just be goosed causing the new chain to ride over the teeth and jump about.

are the zig zags up kepple cove rideable?

Yep they are if you can climb technical and have the legs done it a couple of times without dabbing. 😀

If time was running short I think they mean go down the zigzags on keppel cove. You have another climb to get to sticks. Dunno if you've done helvellyn before but the better ways up are either from the coach road over the Dodds or up the keppel cove zig zags as the are pretty much rideable. Best way off allow the ridge to dollywagon then grisedale tarn to patterdale.

Sella italia slr xc gel on both my road bike and mountain bike, brill saddle just don't notice it which says a lot.

You checked whether it's the middle chainring sucking then releasing with the new chain that creates a clunk as the mech springs back 😉

Can't say I'd fancy going up from patterdale to the tarn. If you'd wanted to extend it a little, I'd have gone up Keppel Cove on the zigzags which are rideable, then you have a small'ish carry onto lower man then onto onto helvellyn and down dollywagon. Wouldn't have taken much longer as it took 1.5hrs up from patterdale to grisedale.

There's a really good almost all rideable way up Blencathra round the back below sharp edge to the north east, see FP below White Horse Bent then take the obvious path up Foule crag.

Best way out of Grisedale Hause is the way you went to patterdale 😉 its nowt special into grasmere

Nice………fancy not taking your bikes on Sharp edge you big chickens!! 😛

Descent into the top of nan bield off Harter is excellent init. 8)

Great day out and you can ride a lot more than 50% if the fitness is good. Honister climbs doable and you can ride a fair bit of scarth gap, blacksail and Styhead. The descents are tricky and proper lakes techical rockfests but all rideable, not really for the inexperienced rider as they'll end up pushing up and then pushing down a fair bit.

Gasgale gill is quite badly damaged/washed away on the buttermere end and involves so scrambling with the bike to pass through it 😉 not for everyone me thinks, take care.

Its oil and tar deposits on the screen, clean it properly as said and they'll make no noise.

Remember also because of the larger contact area on road cleats they bend slightly to the shoe when fitted as not all shoes are the same. Cast them out of metal and you'll have problems with cracking cleats or damaged soles… That said it is mostly about weight

Cleat position is important, check your cleats are positioned so the pedal axle is over or just behind the balls of your foot. If the cleat is to far forward it stresses your calve more.

Its super dry at the moment and running fast. It took 3.15hrs week last sunday. Great ride when its in that condition.

What pressure you running them? They have a sweet spot at about 28psi, loads of grip on wet lakes rock. Brill tyre!

They have a triple compound on the new fats and I ride whinlatter a lot and have never had a grip issue. The cheaper schwalbe may use a hard compound.

Scareypants the fats have the snakeskin carcass makes a huge difference on the rocks

Schwalbe's carcasses are far more durable on rocks(ust) new fat alerts are a fantastic here in the lakes, mate runs the highroller lust over the same stuff and they are fragile. Wouldn't touch a conti up here again as I've never got a set to last more than 10 rides, but haven't tried the rubber queens so could,'t comment on their durability

As said by yeti the 4000s are excellent. Their offroad range however is nothing special grip or durablity wise, schwalbe are far better in both those areas imo. Every conti i've used in the lakes lasted less than 10 rides, mountain kings only six(very weak carcass on the ust versions), there just not up to it on rocky terrain. Will never buy another offroad tyre from conti but road wise conti every time.