Depends how you ride the rock really, if your not quick on the rock most tyres will do. I use 2.4 Fat Alberts ust which are great but quite pricey. Tyres that have a good rep with regular riding locals, off the top of my head are High Rollers, Michelin Rock'r, RubberQueens, Rampages etc. Basically robust and 2.2-2.4 size wise.

Ayup fella 😉 I've used kysrium sl's for many years and they are a good stiff light wheel. Only real issue I had with them was the nipples seizing which was a bit of a pain when you want to true them. But I've just got a set of Shimano Dura-Ace Wheels CL 7850(carbon laminate) a few months back. So far they are the absolute dogs, the hubs run super smooth and whilst stiff they give a very compliant ride, ideal for the passes round our way. Best road wheels I've used. If you shop around you'll get them about £400'ish new on ebay and the likes which is what I did.

Review on Bikeradar

Sidi insoles are cr@p, most folk i know either stick Specialized, Sole or similar in. Only issue to watch out for is the sidi is a tighter fit than the specialized shoe so for some people it can make the fit too tight.

This was my first Lakes ride for 10+ years, (other than Whinlatter), can anyone recommend some similar descents?

If your after rock then Esk Hause to Styhead then seathwaite is a absolute cracker and my personal fave. But also….Walna scar to Coniston then later on the same ride Stainton ground to the other Seathwaite(Duddon). Blacksail into Wasdale. Burnmoor into Wasdale. Back of Fleetwith into Buttermere. Scarth Gap into Buttermere. Bowdale going north west. Sticks pass heading east then theres a cheeky detour under Green side round Glencoyne valley for some techy singletrack with top views. Harter fell to Nan bield col then either descent, the one into Haweswater being the more techy. Garburn into kentmere. Skiddaw and down Ullock. Whiteless from wandope and down the front. Both bit cheeky. Parkermoor to high nibthwaite. The Borrowdale Bash descents watendlath to Rothwaite and castle crag plus some other cheeky extra's. Rossett gill or Greenup edge if you feeling brave

List is endless but these should keep you busy for now 😀

😀 Hehehe. Definitely got their site sorted and doing some great deals at the mo.

Its actually quite common for locking wheel nuts to seize on, think its probably because they are fitted later than the wheel nuts and probably don't get anti seize re-applied.

If its still under warranty it doesn't matter who bought it first. Don't let them fob you off.

Your size here for just a few more pennys, think its a newer model to as its 5.5

Biketreks have some good deals on the s-works shoes, limited sizes though.

parisroubaix gotta agree with you there, I use both S-works road and mtb shoes for the very same reasons. 😉

They're a couple of years old model wise and hence they are showing the rrp that they were sold at 2 years ago. The good news is they haven't changed other than colour and a higher price over the last 2 years, so at that price they are a bargain……..if you can class £160 a bargain

odi cush 😉

To be honest I don't really have a problem with with the pitching. Dollwagon was a cr@ppy manmade scree which was expanding very quickly before they put the pitching in. Now the grass is growing back and the fellside is becoming more stable. The pitching is a rideable if your used to that sort of thing and if your not keen there's plenty of chicken run options to the side. Unfortuately the volume of traffic nowadays means these pitched paths are necessary to protect the fells.

Trek carbon frames used to do this on the joints between the bb section and the seat tube its nothing to worry about….according to Trek. That said the newer trek madones don't seem to do it anymore my SL hasn't, so its something Trek obviously addressed.

http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=237&Name=Hollowtech+II+bearing+upgrade

Have a look at sending them to betd they will fit enduro bearings for you for free and send them back.

For a xtr to last 7months I suspect the preload was incorrect or the bb case needed facing. I'll get 18- 24 months out of a xtr in the lakes riding 2-3 times a week which as we know is a harsh environment. A king would have to last 8 years to be cost effective for me by which time it would be battered and I will have moved on bike wise and I suspect bb and cranks will have to. But as said they are bling so whatever floats your boat is good 😉

Yeah the xt and the xtr will fit the same without any need to modify anything 😉 as said sick with new xtr one though.

Hmmm no bearings last indefinitely and there's been quite a few posts on here about ck's running roughly. Also its not 80 quid cos you need the grease tool too. Sure if you want the bling then ck's the way to go, but cost effective… I don't think so as you get a good 18 months out of a 32 quid xtr one.

Get the xtr one they last longer than the xt's for very little extra cost

It's known as a Northshore dab, using hands or elbow, shoulder etc. Originating from Vancouvers mental North shore trails. Dabs a dab whatever you use.

Motocross stuff

You can get proper carbon sheets for use on motocross bikes its super tough. Only issue is getting it to stick to your down tube, got mine to stay down by applying superglue to the edges hasn't moved in 3 years and still looks in good nick.

They used to come up small but the sizing can be a bit hit and miss from year to year. I'm 5'11 30" waist and the medium Swiftbibs are supertight on me but very comfy whilst on.

Chain growth and pedal-kickback – as bikes utilize chains in their drive train, and it is in connection with the engine (the rider), any changes regarding to the chain feeds back to the rider. Compressing the suspension usually causes the wheel to get farther from the bottom bracket, thus the chain is required to “get longer”. This is caused by the geometry of the suspension linkage, and taken up by some chain-tensioning device (or the rear derailleur). Since most bike have a rear hub with a clutch mechanism, which not allows for free forward rotation, the chain lengthening will cause the hub to turn forward (if it can). So the chain length change can be balanced either by wheel rotation forwards, or the cranks turning backwards or the suspension not moving. In real life, if a rider rides over a bump and the suspension is compressing, he might feel his pedals turning backwards to some extents. Or if he’s strong enough to withstand this, either the wheel will have an “extra” rotation forwards or the suspension will not compress that much, as it would without the chain (or drive train). All of these effects work at the same time in different amounts, degrading suspension performance and rider comfort.

Wheel rotation caused by suspension compression – there is another effect affecting wheel rotation besides chain lengthening. For most designs, suspension compression also makes the wheel contact point with the ground getting more rearwards from the main frame, thus if the wheel is not sliding, the rear wheel will turn backwards. Also, as the suspension is compressed and the wheel's ground contact point remains the same (imagine a stationery position), it is turning backwards compared to the main frame. These wheel rotations cause pedal-kickback by the clutch mechanism and the tensioned chain – at the ratio of the rear and front cogwheels. Thus you will feel less pedal-kickback in larger gears.

You can check these previous effects (chain growth, pedal kickback, wheel backwards rotation) on your bike as well. Just pull the front brake and compress the rear of your bike. The wheel and the cranks will turn backwards. Of course, this also happens when you ride over bumps, just you can't separate this feeling this sharply from other effects.

The pedal-kickback values are shown positive counter-clockwise, since this what you really feel as "kickback". Wheel rotation values are shown positive clockwise, thus a positive value means "forward" rotation.

As an example (using Linkage and a model for a 2005 Intense 6.6), the chain growth when both front and rear suspension are compressed 100mm is roughly 13mm, this translates in a pedal rotation of 13.7 degrees in 32/32, 19.8 degrees in 26/32, 25.7 degrees in 22/32.

found this on mtbr

Isn't it just its a lot more noticeable in the little ring because of the gear ratio.

Pedal feedback
Pedal feedback describes torque applied to the crankset by the chain caused by motion of the rear axle relative to the bottom bracket.[14] This can sometimes be felt by the cyclists and can be considered undesirable.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_suspension

I had non oakley ones put in my twenty's which are fine but contacts are miles better for biking IMO

Turner just cos it wont crack, its built straight and if anything does go wrong then you've got a good warrenty to back it up with.

Quite a lot of the 2009's DW Turners have cracked! Search this forum or mtbr. That said the CS is brilliant and the problem the 2009's had has been sorted on the 2010's……..Hopefully

Check your saddle sounds like there is something clicking the lycra. Cracks in the surface or a abrasive material will do this.

You usually size up ie specialized 43 = Sidi 44. Sidi site has a fit guide you can print out and use to measure your feet.

Whatever cynic-al

Its all very well using the etiquette card when its in you favour, but Andy and Co didn't wait for Chavanel when he had 2 punctures on the pave did they… oh and let's remember AS didn't have a mechanical he just fluffed a gear change and actually lost the majority of the time on the descent. Nearly every single ex-pro has come out and said what happened that day is fine including AS's team manager Mr 60% himself

The strongest rider is in yellow. Its a bike race FFS. Schleck was only in the position to take yellow after Sparticus put his food down on the cobbles after a crash isolated most of the gc contenders. Remember he also neutralised the stage on the previous day in which Andy would have lost serious time. I ain't that keen on Contador but he is the best all round rider and worthy champion.

There's a rumour they're gonna be on the same team next year so that may put a end to any real showdown in the next few years.

Good deal on similar

Difficult to price as their oe. Rutland list the rrp of the non 15mm bolt thru. at £518.99

The rrp is a bit out me thinks, these are the non fit damper budget version of the floats. Still a good deal but not quite so good as they are making out. 😉

Kirkstile[/url] Great food and produces its own beer which is pretty dam good 😉

Cool 8)