Thanks for replies everyone . I managed to pick up an unused solid oak worktop , 2 metres long x 40 mm thick, should do the job nicely with a bit left over for a couple more shelves elsewhere . I was going to make a corrugated cardboard template as the walls are not perfect , then , hopefully get a mate to cut it , if not may have to buy a nice new circular saw .
The walls on both sides are nice solid brick , I planned fixing two concrete screw in fixings on each side , leave about 15 mm on and chop the hex head off . After shelves are cut I can sit on top , mark out and then drill and route some slots ,which will then give an invisible fixing. I am open to suggestions if anyone has a simpler idea .

I don’t own a biscuit joiner or clamps . I live in Wakefield, there are a couple of hardwood stockholders locally , I’ll give them a visit . I thought about veneer faced furniture board but wanted something a little thicker , scaffolding boards would still need joining .

I had a TCR Advanced Pro and it was one of the most stable bikes I’ve had at speed . I decided to upgrade to the TCR Advanced SL as I thought it would be even better . I was wrong , it was too twitchy and although I didn’t experience speed wobbles on it I didn’t have as much confidence at speed on it. I think confidence is a big factor as I have had speed wobble problems a few years ago and it takes a long time to learn to flow with the bike again . Best bike for stability , feel etc I’ve ridden was a BMC SLR 01, absolutely rock solid at speed and could be thrown into any corners on any surface .

I’ve bled the brakes and tried pushing pistons back in , the wheel is spinning freely now but there is no clearance between pad and disc , certainly couldnt fit a folded credit card in . Had a watch of a couple of YouTube vids showing cleaning the stuck pistons , will try this tomorrow .

I’m not Chris Froome 😂, but I have sold a rim brake TCR SL and moved onto discs , Genesis Zero , 105 shifters and callipers , almost regretting it . Disc isn’t warped or bent and I’ve done all the centring stuff as above. Wandering if it could be a lazy piston as one of them seems to resist being pushed back , it’s not much but doesn’t take much , what can you do for a lazy piston ?

Coleman coolbox, not cookbook :) . Last year the campsites weren’t refreshing ice packs because of Covid, thats why I think wife is looking into this .

Weve got a really good Coleman cookbook but Mrs Alongo has seen the Jackery type power-packs and has been thinking if we could use a fridge . Quite often the hook up areas are on gravel or in a less attractive area . Personally I think it will be a lot of expense for little gain really .

I’m about to buy a set of wheels for the disc road bike and am thinking the JRA MAP full wheel build @ £390 is maybe best bang for buck wheels there is presently. I was considering a carbon set, maybe up to £1000 , I know they look better but weight is probably lighter than all but the top end carbon wheels. Other consideration is the Scribe alloy race wheels, which seem similar but have CX Ray spokes @ £370 . I have built my own rim brake wheels before but can’t quite convince myself to try a disc build .

I’ve just built up a nice Genesis Zero disc brake bike , only ridden it once so far . The Basso frame looks nice , so does the Bowman but the geometry doesn’t suit on those . I have accumulated quite a bit of equipment over the years and have an old titanium frame or a Giant Defy frame that could maybe be upgraded instead of buying another frame .

Yeah , think I agree about £70 buying a lot of fruit and veg etc . Maybe a daily smoothie made from varying combinations of greens , beets ,,berries , chia seeds, flax seeds, ginger , turmeric or other good quality ingredients is the way to go .

Had a look at YouTube and found some good instructional vids , looks pretty basic , thanks all .

Been using them together for 18 months without a problem.

I have a Samsung S9 , how would I manage to get it to run Zwift on a large tv screen.

“a little spanner will appear for you to calibrate – have you done that?”

I have a Direto and was under the impression that the Elite App was all that is required for calibration . Does anyone know if the “spanner icon” on the Zwift set up actually does anything for calibrating the Direto.

I’ve had some Fiziks that only had one Boa dial plus one Velcro strap and they seem to gradually work loose . Does a double Boa dial stay at the tension you fasten it to or do they also work loose?

Keep wondering if the laces will get caught in the chain wheel teeth or are they really short .

Just fancy a change really , a bit more tyre clearance would be good.Had an Aithein, bit stiff for long rides, so comfort is important, although Ycr is not bad. Current frame is a great fit too and when I get back on it after a decent break I always think why am I thinking of changing it.To be honest it’s far more of a bike than i am as a rider, just bored musings after a long Christmas holiday.

Thanks for replies, will put it on the list for next year .

Got it all sorted now, swapped rotors round, took mounting plate out and bolted caliper to frame.Bolts were right length and got the circlip on . Got two pairs of wheels to swap around now, thanks for advice everyone,

Thanks simondbarnes , think I’m getting my head round it now. I’ve got the tools required to swap the rotors round . I think I will go with 160 front , 140 rear then it’s just a case of switching wheels when necessary. So , no need to touch the fork , the rear needs the plate taking out which is 6 or 7 mm thick . Will I need shorter bolts or will they be ok?

I cant figure out how to load pics. Forks look like I just need to swap adaptor which says 160 top on outside. The rear is also on an adaptor plate but not showing any numbers.

Thinking about it , if I make both wheels : 160 front and 140 rear it will just be a case of a straight swap whenever I change the wheels. If this sounds feasible I just have the rear adaptor to sort out – will it just flip round to fit 140 , cheers .

Interested in this thread . Just got a Cube Nuroad Race with Cubes own RA .8 wheels on. I am wanting a spare set so I can have one set up with gravel tyres and one with road tyres. If I bought the suggested Shimano RS 170 @ £120 , which , if any would suit road and gravel best. Also, can you recommend a decent cheapest centrelock 160 mm rotor.

I’m running a 105 , 5800 Stages 4iii with an Ultegra R8000 crankset, it’s fine. I do have a related query though, just bought a gravel bike with Shimano GRX on and was wandering if this would work ok as the Q factor is supposed to be 2.5 mm wider each side. Will it work or won’t it , I know I could just try it but if anyone could confirm I’d appreciate , thanks .

Is there any difference in feel to the more expensive ones , I have the super cheap ones, which are ok , just wandered if it was worth investing in better quality.

Thanks for that .

Wheels are Team Vision 30 .

Thanks for the replies, I’ve solved the problem – bought a Cube Nuroad Race with 15% off in a Black Friday sale. It’s got a GRX groupset , could do with selling a bike or two now 😀.

I thought I might put it on for the Ronde Von Calderdale sportive next year, it has crazy cobbled climbs with gradients over 30% in places . I also thought it might work well with a closer ratio cassette like a 11-25 for more normal riding conditions.

I think you may need rhe full chainset as the PCD on the GRX will be smaller to accommodate the 30 tooth ring .

What I am starting to realise now is that I’m not that bothered about chasing pb’s and high average speeds anymore. Also , to be realistic I’m less likely to be seeing pb’s etc at 55 years old , and feels all a bit pointless now. Family commitments including grandchildren and elderly parents mean following structured training plans isn’t easy and time available seems tricky at times too. So, I see my fitness waning and have already noticed over past couple of years and to be honest I’m ok with that.
I had acquired 6 or 7 decent quality bikes , like you do, and came to the conclusion they were unnecessary, so I have sold a few and raised a couple of grand. I think I am entering the autumn of my cycling “career” and am at a loose end on what to do. What I think an e bike might do for me is “help” me get out for 3 or 4 hr rides , whereas without an e bike I think I’m only motivated for up to 2 hrs at the moment .

I think the reason I’ve got an e bike itch is that I want to go easier on outdoor rides now . I can use zwift for thrashing around and enjoy that but I think I want to ride little easier and still get quite far, especially in the hills , so I think this is where my new desire is coming from . Thinking of up to @ £2500 , don’t know enough about then yet to make a purchase . Thanks for input everyone .

I’ve just not been “feeling” the cycling recently and thought it may add a new dimension to it . I’ve been cycling nearly thirty years and realise you have peaks and troughs , to be fair I do 90% of my cycling on Zwift now. The mountain bike idea may be the best as I have nanaged to get HID out on the trails on hired mountain bikes and there’s no way she would ride on the road at the moment. @rhisisnotaspoon , what bike are you using to get your 65 milers , would I need a 500w/hr battery, something like the Cube hybrid pro 500?

I would definitely want to buy new , so would not be hacking or chipping it as it voids the warranty . I have flat roads to the east and hilly , very hilly roads to the north , south and west so my intention would be riding in the hills . Probably wait to see if I can get a Black Friday deal.

I’ve been looking at an Orbea Terra with GRX. Not fully sure I will make use of a gravel bike but have not been feeling it on the road recently so thought the change might do me good. Does anyone know if the 600 and 800 GRX levers are the same size or are they like the first gen Shimano levers where the lower model, 505 i think , was a lot bigger .Btw , I am very impressed with the Myo custom paint scheme on the carbon machines.

Like “daveylad”, I have a weak left knee that flares up in the medial area. Would be interested to hear or see some strengthening and rehab exercises , routines, thanks in advance .

Didn’t realise that about charging the Oregon batteries, will give it a go , thanks everyone .

So, if I record on Oregon without maps will it display on Strava on maps. I have a good USB charger pack and a solar charging unit. Think I’ve got covered with the Garmin and phone as backup .
Mentioned the Instinct and Fenix as we do quite a bit of walking and use the Oregon on unfamiliar routes but wandered if the watches were more convenient on familiar routes. Does anyone use a Fenix or Instinct for navigating unfamiliar routes . Always take map and compass btw.

Didn’t think you could go smaller than 34 teeth on the 110 pad compact.

Not missing nothing really, strava routes seems about the only one I’ll use.