Hmm, I’m still not seeing any argument for doing it that way except that it’s the same way you’ve always done it :)

Hands on the ramps or hoods should be pretty comfy. I don’t use my drops much on the commute and still find the top sections a very comfy way to cycle.

Is it a stretch out too much weight on the hands?

It’s not shite, it’s minor. Lacing symmetrically can be both ‘good enough’ and also not be the best pattern, right? Does doing it symmetrically provide sl any benefit apart from being easier for you to lace up?

This factor is sufficiently outweighed by the major factors, tangential spokes, sufficient tension and good stress relief that you can choose to ignore it and still build wheels that don’t fail. Similarly, you can lace the drive side the other way too. Whereas if you radially spoke where torque is transmitted, apply insufficient tension or don’t stress relieve you will have failures relatively quickly.

What way do you lace a front wheel on the disc side cynic-al?

Flange width does affect the calculated spoke length a little bit, it’s just that the other side of the triangle is so much longer that it’s normally insignificant.

Who says that’s more important then the other considerations?

Unless any of these recommendations are accompanied by published test data on what happens under load, I wouldn’t place too much weight on this issue.

I’ll stick with what Shimano, Sapim and Magura recommend, given they make and test wheels, spokes and disc brakes or all three, even if they don’t publish their test results. Who exactly is recommending the opposite approach, except for Chris King.

There are arguments based on what happens under load, but these work both ways. One type of argument is that the crossing point should be pulled in under load to prevent fouling – but that means lacing one way on the disc side (prevent fouling on the caliper under braking) and the other way on the rear drive side (prevent fouling on the derailleur cage when pedalling in first gear). And spoke/caliper fouling may not be an issue with your setup. Another argument is that the outside spokes should be the ones loaded under braking as those spokes are better supported by the flange. And so on

This is nonsensical. All your arguments are in line with the Shimano/sapim/Magura pattern and logic! So what if you have to lace differently on each side on the rear? Look at the diagram, you have the outside spokes supported by the flange and being tensioned under braking.

Replace the nipples though.

Why would you replace the nipples from a new wheel? If you make a mistake and have to relace a wheel would you throw the nipples away?

Depending on the rim I think your front right spokes might only be slightly short on the new hub, if they were perfectly sized before. If they are currently a little long (spoke protrudes a mm or two from the nipple head under the rim tape) then you might be in luck. It’s not sensible to reuse but a skinflint might be tempted :)

Ummm, maybe I’m doing it wrong, and I’ve built fewer than 10 wheels so am a looong way from being an expert, but not a single one has had a different lacing pattern on the disc side, and none have failed on me yet

Possibly you’re doing it wrong, possibly what I have written is slightly unclear and this has led to a misunderstanding.

https://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Disc_wheel_Lacing

Not best practice might be a better way to put it than ‘wrong’. I’m sure many wheels are laced symmetrically and do not fail. However, that is hardly a good argument for continuing to use a worse method when it is relatively simple to use the better method instead.

You should be able to get good Sapim spokes and nipples for about 50-55p each. Hopefully you can reuse the rim tape. You might get lucky and find you can re-use half of the spokes, but if doing so make sure you identify and keep separate the ones to reuse, separating inwards from the outwards laced spokes.

If you can’t lace it then you could looking for a shop or builder who is willing to build the wheel using your parts, and who might charge a few quid more because of that. You should still be under £75 quote you’ve got.

Lacing a rear disc wheel is a little tricky because many of the lacing patterns online are symmetric for rim brakes whereas rear disc should be asymmetric to account for the braking forces. Once you get your head round this and find an appropriate guide it is just like lacing any other wheel.

Dynamo hub overhaul

Helpful guide to disassembling a Shimano dynamo.

I think you can replace the whole rotor assembly, which might work if the cups are ok.

I think it’s the same stuff, a sort of fluorescent yellow green colour.

People have various theories as to what the original manufacturer’s name for it is.

Autol top 2000 super longtime grease is one of the commonly mentioned possibilities. People say motorex bike grease 2000 is similar too. It might be another packaging of the autol grease I suppose.

I bought from spokes from Ryan for the first time after recommendations on here, cheap, good and quick.

I think Sapim race are the direct equivalent. D-lights are another option. https://www.spokesfromryan.com/product-category/spokes/

Only a fool commutes on low spoke count wheels. To save what, 150g?

I’d consider, 24 a bit silly itself, so losing another 8 or 12 spokes to save another 40-60g seems pointless. Next you’ll be telling us you’re using alloy nipples through the winter.

Might as well go fixed and ditch the rear caliper, you’d save a lot more weight :)

SunXCD are interesting but haven’t tried them.

Sun Tour SunXCD Large Flange Hubs

Are you limited to singlespeed wheels? I also couldn’t find the wheels I wanted and have ended up building a couple of rear wheels for singlespeed based on Shimano freehubs. I’d never built a wheel before although I’d trued a few.

I just built the second for myself. H plus son archetype rim 36h is 470g, spokes 229g (DT alpine iii DS 7.2g, Sapim d-light NDS 5.5g), nipples will be 36g and the deore t610 hub is 365g. £50ish for the rim, £17 for the hub, about £20 for spokes, washers and nipples. You could save about 50g by going down to 32 spokes. Took under 2.5 hours to build but please don’t ask how long the first took (relaced it three times!)

(5.5×18)+(7.2×18)+36+470+365=1100g

plus say ~10g of rim tape and a quick release. It’ll gain a bit when I switch it over to a solid axle. My first wheel for a disc bike is about to become free/fixed using one of velosolo’s 6 bolt cogs.

I rinse the chain in water with a little detergent to remove some of the grit it has picked up.

I use a small slow cooker rather than a fryer. It is slower and unlike a fryer there’s no basket for draining the chains. Instead I took the chains and wire them together so I can lift them all together.

I’d buy a mini fryer in preference but the slow cooker is another option and people are always giving them away.

Don’t use an open flame. I wait for a dry day and run an extension out the window.

Are you mixing putoline with the candle wax?

https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=119641

General discussion of grease guns and comments from at least one Moulton owner.

Cannot believe they let it leave the factory twice!

Try some new pads and do aproper setup on the front brake. What model is the rear brake.

Could you service the freehub or is it fubared?

They all feel notchy and rough after a year? That’s damning.

How about a Circe Morpheus?

I often confused myself turning nipples during my first attempts. Things get confusing very quickly if you’re mixed up about whether you’re tightening or loosening.

+1 for weak thread lock. The only thing worse than not being able to remove them is a cleat bolt falling out mid ride.

A530s are a terrible pedal in the wet, my feet slide straight off the flat side.

The xt t8000 are much better with good level of grip from a few pins. The relatively new eh500, an update of the a530 with added pins, looks a good option too.

M324 would be a decent choice too.

I thought so, just having a little fun.

What’s she studying in Ely?

Get a mate to hit it with a hammer, through a suitably sized socket/rod/insert your choice here, while you apply force to the end of a 6′ piece of gas pipe with a spanner in the end

An impact driver applies a sharp rotational force which is very useful. Bashing on the face is not entirely unhelpful but much less useful and much more likely to cause damage to the freehub and hub. It would make more sense to hit the end of the spanner to apply a similar force to an impact driver.

Have you tried a proper penetrating oil for stuck bolts (rather than gt85) and heat on it? Heat should expand the aluminium freehub more than the lock ring, breaking any corrosion layer between the two.

A long lever helps too of course.

Get the position right get the core strong and you wont be colapsing on to your hands for them to go numb.

Couldn’t agree more. The classic test is to see if you can support yourself with your hands clasped behind your back.

If position is not right, changing bars, grips and tyres is a fool’s errand.

Is your saddle fore-aft position correct? Could it be leading you to put too much weight on your hands?

Why do people want thin pedals?

Bummer. Thanks for the reply.

Does this BrantX3 thing work?

Would you ever want the knee to be behind the pedal spindle, with the foot reaching for the pedal?

I use nearly all types. For most small adjustments or checking something is tight I use a park multitool that is normally close at hand, very occasionally a triangular type one and tend to get the newest longer Wiha magic ring ones out for a planned job, changing cranks of pedals or where reach needed or access is difficult, adjusting disc brakes through the spokes. Just because you get a shiny new set you don’t have to stop using the old ones.

Wiha magic ring are really nice, as is the ergo holder. Magic ring is a spring that holds the bolt on the ball end. Comparable price with the bondhus ones but shinier and tricker.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/wiha-metric-magic-ring-hex-key-set-9-pieces/8095g?_requestid=345581

With respect you did not try the smart method.

Freeze it, shrink the post, break the aluminium oxide bond, remove. No damage to post or frame. The hard part is getting dry ice but with the effort.

Don’t take my word for it, check it out yourself.