To remove I’d try flushing it out with a bit of solvent, then following that with hot water and degreaser/detergent, then just hot water.

I used a lanolin based protector, fluidfilm, from eBay. Probably used about 50ml of product in total, so a couple of quid.

Just checked our menagerie of Islas and the spanner flats are visible on all of them. Either the dust shield isn’t fully home …

This.

The dustshield is not fully home on one of the cones, the one in the first and fourth pictures, it is quite obvious in the pictures. You can even see the flats inside the dust shield. A gentle press or tap using a suitably size socket should move it in a little.

As they say in the clickbait “look closer”.

As for centering, as long as the end of the axle is below the face of the dropout when installed so that the qr doesn’t bottom out it doesn’t matter too much.

Put your weight on the bars to make sure the wheel is fully seated in the dropoutds you choose the at.

71 seat tube 72 head.

Who will watch this one and tell us what they found?

5% difference one comment says, so someone’s earlier guess was spot on. Bit more than I expected o be honest.
Reasoning from that you’d probably expect the slightly lower efficiency of a hub gear and the wider gaps between gears to have an additional impact, maybe a few more percentage points. No wonder the OP is feeling outpaced.

Would love to see a test with modern groupset and matched wheels on both bikes.

The UCI rules are that once the sprint has started, sprinters must continue straight ahead with minimum deviation. As there’s a significan sideways movement from Bouhanni which also obstructs another rider, a typical sanction would be the demotion to last place.

Yes, I think everyone agrees on that point. The question is whether he committed a further offence of dangerous riding/unsportsmanlike behaviour which warrants greater punishment.

Seems to get off balance a lot during sprints. Bit pointless arguing whether he intended it or is so incompetent he nearly throws himself off his own bike.

Sorry 13thfloormonk but your interpretation is a stretch

He drifts towards him AKA changes his line during the sprint.

This not being sufficient he then throws his body into the other rider. He seems to expect the other rider to push back, effectively holding him up. As the other rider doesn’t push back he nearly falls off and his weight is so far over he can’t continue pedalling.

It’s kind of funny that he is trying so hard to ram the other rider that he has to stop pedalling, messing up his own sprint. Egregious. Who knows what video some of you are watching!

Uh, he’s off balance because he’s launched his weight sideways into the other rider!

Hunt also use Kinlin rims iirc.

Most, possibly all, of the halo aluminium rims are made by kinlin iirc.

and you have miss typed

recursive loop end.

Kinlin, adhn, xr21 etc

Just regular 406 rims and 100/135 hubs, aren’t they?

This thread title why yes fad is **** annoying. Nearly as bad as the Sorry… ones

First application is in summer, later ones in autumn and winter by any chance?

so does make me wonder if the same is a little bit possible when we stomp on a pedal uphill?

No.

Sense as in sensible but I should or could also just say a ‘double check’ with a known measure. Does the X01 also measure longer than expected on the vernier caliper?

You have introduced a new method of measuring and found a result that surprises you. Therefore it is always worth going back to your old measurement method to compare new to old for verification, i.e. verifying that it’s really the chain and not the device/method of measuring that is underlying the surprising result.

Ah, sorry. Sense check the full length measurement using the vernier calipers.

I wasn’t using digital though.

Yes I know. I meant why not also measure the chain using the digital calipers and see how that measurement compares to the others and if it is consistent with your full length measurement.

Roller wear is irrelevant.

Have you done a sense check with the digital caliper on the chain? I would return it and if the next one is equally bad change brand.

Looks odd/wrong to me. Unless it serves to hold a plug in place when you’re not using the mudguard?

Should still work with a bolt that is carefully cut and filed to length though?

It’s really the basket that is the major benefit when using the DFF, then the ability to adjust temp, then the speed. I’d happily use a slow cooker if it had a little basket to lift the chains out.

Screw you and your annoying bloody pulsing shit light. I wish they were banned.

Yes the Hope freehub is more expensive than the XT one but as a percentage of full cost of the whole hub is less.

LOL, proper cyclist economics there.

I think that’s actually pretty close to the observed effect IME, somewhere in the region of tenths of a turn?

A good recent thread that also links to many of the other relevant past discussions at the cycling UK forum. https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=143125

It used to be a deep mystery for me. That ended when I started compressing the axle prior to adjusting the preload.

In a similar way to “the laws of aerodynamics should mean that a bee can’t fly”?

Exactly that, never argue with someone about something that can be easily demonstrated by a simple experiment. If someone is too fing lazy to put a QR and clamp it on the axle to see for themselves then no amount of forum posts is going to convince them.

You don’t have to buy into anything because you can easily demonstrate it for yourself in about thirty seconds.

Can someone explain to me how tightening the QR increases the preload? You’re not compressing the axle with the force from the QR, and if the locknuts are tightened against the cones, the force from the QR isn’t going to move the cone down the thread. What am I missing?

You are compressing the axle with force from the QR. It’s not moving the cone down the thread, it’s moving both cones a fraction of a millimeter towards each other.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/cone-adjustment.html

That might be fine if you are well practiced and know how much play to leave so that the QR removes it, leaving it in perfect adjustment. I never got that good and ended up taking the wheel in and out of the frame several times to readjust. People who are not so familiar with the process are likely to adjust the hub so it is running perfectly in the hand (out of the frame) resulting in it being too tight when clamped by the QR. Excess preload will lead to premature wear.

Using the hub vise removes the uncertainty. A stack of 10 M5 washers taped together is all you need for a spacer and you can be certain that it is not running too tight. I thought it was bit of a faff from Sheldon; description but really it is very easy to assemble and use.

On quick release wheels the compressive force of the QR squeezes the bearing together, removing some play. Is the same true of through axle systems?

If you use washers or spacers as dummy dropouts you can use the QR to compress the axle while still leaving access to the lock nut on the side you are adjusting. This is sometimes called a hub vise. You can then adjust them precisely. This eliminates the guesswork and speeds up adjusting them a lot.

This method is described by Sheldon brown in his page describing cup and cone hub adjustment.

Despite the link, diagram and ALLCAPS jest above, last time we discussed this I also found some well reasoned explanations of the other position i.e. that it doesn’t matter very much (better explained than ‘it’s pish’/’not applicable’/’i’ve always done it this way/etc).
The reasoning was that the maximum torque during braking is still relatively small compared to the other forces the wheel sees in use making adjusting the lacing pattern not very relevant for disc braking vs rim brakes, so long as it is tangential and not radial https://www.wheelfanatyk.com/blog/issues-disk-brake-wheels/ and Jobst Brandt said the same.

Personally, I still felt it was sensible to continue following the majority of recommendations and lace as per the shimano/mavic/dt swiss/magura/sapim pattern and instructions. Since I’d never laced a wheel the other way it didn’t make any difference to me. You buys your spokes and you make your own choice.

The valve hole thing gets easier too. In a 3x wheel you’ll be putting the first spoke (leading to the hole bedside the valve) in the 4th hole away from the logo, 3rd for 2x, 2nd for 1x and of course 1st for radial.

READ THE SHIMANO STANDING ORDERS. READ THEM AND UNDERSTAND THEM!

https://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Disc_wheel_Lacing

Well they say one good experiment is worth a ton of mouthflapping. Will try dropping the temp before removal next time.

Can hot wax really run out of the chain to any significant degree? I think that even if it’s very hot, capillary action in the thin gaps between chain parts will mean it will retain a lot of wax.

I tend to run mine to the hot end of it’s range, around 170, agitating the basket until it stops bubbling to make sure the air gets out and wax gets right into the chain.

I can’t wait to see these jokers faces when you bring the math @theotherjonv

Buy fewer and get the die drawn ones.
How do they come? Could it be more economic to buy 100 polished inners and a roll of outer?

If the fibrax ones are die drawn/polished it may be worth the extra if the Clarks are not.