The 2.8 trax fatty has a width of approx 74mm on my 38mm rims. It doesn’t leave much room to the bulges on the revelation forks (side to side clearance) . I’ve had no contact but I would not dare go wider. Lots of room elsewhere.

The wtb on the rear also comes up surprising wide, circa 70mm when I did a quick measure. I thought it was going to be less.

And just to add my 27.5+ rolls better than my Bronson sitting on its maxxis hr2’s. Quote a lot better after riding them back to back yesterday.

Go try one, I think as a do it all bike on a ht it makes a lot of sense.

Seems wasted on a full sus

36 mile natural ride today on mine. My 29″ ht would have had my ass bleeding, and I’m sat comfy at home with its new 27.5+ wheels.

It does smooth stuff out, not quite as much as my full sus; but the beauty is the lack of maintenance and a bit more comfort (I’m still recovering from an off a couple of months ago)

I dont do proper xc, so I have never had lightweight xc tyres. Ive used carbon rims to keep rotating mass down, yes tyres are heavier.

Slower? probably a touch but in the current conditions I’m not going for kom’s. I’m riding in a different style on it.

As for rolling resistance, they are far better than expected. Vee tax fatty front and wtb rear, both in 2.8.

I really like mine

Old bmx’er here.

I bought the bike I wanted when I used to race.

An se racing floval flyer. Bit rough but I’ve got it semi restored. Perfect for riding with my kids. Also got an itch to get back on a proper track.

Great for remembering how to ride properly.

I found the Fox ctd either blowing travel or with spacers in the can to tune it, it became quite ‘wooden’.

I’ve tried the vorsprung air can, which has taken time to get that right too. Nice supple initial breakaway, supportive mid range and not hitting the end of the stroke.

Demo day at fod on Oct 4th. I think they will have the alloy yelli in xl available.

Canfield UK on fb have an event up.

Bronson 1 resale value will drop circa that amount as the Bronson 2 is released.

Doesn’t bother me, I’m happy with the reach on the original. What’s more on an issue is getting a rear shock set up to make the most of it, pita.

Canfield nimble 9?

I reused my 29″ hubs and just bought the new rims, then paid my lbs for bits and to build

I used my specialized epic frame and slapped an on one front in it. I also put a narrow mud tyre on the rear.

It worked ok in the mud of the wyre, saved my other bikes a lot of abuse. It self steered like a pig, looked a bit odd and i felt the fat front didn’t help my riding skill, it flattered the rider.

I soon broke it for bits and have a 27.5+ now which seems a lot more rounded

Another ride today and I’m sold on this set up.

The vee Trax front appears to have stretched and isn’t self steering anywhere near as much.

I had an absolute blast on it today and ride the natural wyre trails like a hooligan (or it certainly felt that way).

Doesn’t appear to be any slower climbing or on the flat too, over the 29″ set up.

Significantly reduced chatter on the rear, stupid amounts of grip and the lower cog makes for nice handling. I’m sold

Any eta on opening.

In this case (assuming it’s just a switch back)I’d maybe simplify it and try the Jedi method.

This is a sound method for a switch back or off camber, but I’ve found it difficult to use in natural surroundings;in hitting a couple of quick turns you can’t rotate the cranks 180 deg quick enough, and you need an alternative pedals level solution. Same problem applies to trying to lead with a left or right foot, you don’t always get time to rotate them or something physical in the trail will stop you from switching.

Steve slow your rebound

Agree with the posts above.

Fs and make it work on red/black dh runs.

Aggressive ht for my local natural trails which are not so demanding, and the ht makes them feel more alive. I also ride the fs smoother from some time spent back on a ht.

Bmx is still the ultimate to master.

Not all will take it. If you can get a 2.4 rear tyre on a 29″ you have a good chance, but it really depends on how the chainstay is formed. The on one lurcher for example doesn’t have the clearance.

Vee trax fatty is a far better front tyre than the wtb. I’ll keep mine until I can get a maxxis offering.

I’ve lowered by bars a touch and that coupled to the lower bb and extra grip has resulted in some awesome tight handling characteristics.

Good skills courses are far cheaper than new bikes. In the 2 I did last year my riding came on leaps and bounds…until my off.

Invest.

I feel your pain. 8/9 weeks ago I fell onto an exposed timber on the techie devil after going otb.

I got out on my roadie asap, but I’ve noticed on a mtb the first few rides felt like near death experiences at any turn or feature.

Firstly make sure from your time off and fall you don’t have any body deficiency. I found I was, and are still weak on my left side. Get your core strength up so it’s easier to move on the bike.

I’m always bricking it at the start of a run, as a kid when I raced bmx this ruined my racing usually. I found Tony Doyle, aka Jedi really helped my mental skills at (not overcoming) but putting my mind in a focussed, commited place which lets me ride better.

Relaxing and freeing up the body is key, but also just going back to basics for cornering technique is a good place to start. If your mind in wondering about falling it’s not doing the right things to prep you for the next bend/jump. You will go from one near miss to another at bpw, with your confidence falling through the floor at the same time.

Check your technique, have a word with yourself about focus and commit to your technique, start slow, repeat and add speed back in.

Easier said than done, I’ve not been majorly airborne since my off but I’m sure it will come back with commitment and practice. Good luck

Just be mindful of what will be your coolest wall/roof before boarding.

When I insulated and boarded my workshop/garage walls I found the roof to be the coolest and condensation/ eventually mould formed on the roof boards. I had to put a vapour barrier across the joists to stop this.

3x 6ft strip lights. And I second the use of tube protection. As I currently have only one working tube…

When I was in need of a cheap, reliable crank the zee Inc a bb was about 60 notes on crc. Used it for an uplift day and then sold it on whilst I sorted my crank.

Bit heavy mind..

Cheers nemesis.

I’ve had a play tonight and I found the self steer was being triggered at about 11psi, above that it was ok. The shape of the tyre appears to have changed shape a little, maybe stretched and the effects seem to be less

It’s on a 40mm rim and the shoulders appear to be quite steep. I think it would maybe work better on a wider rim (hugo etc) to slacken the shoulder angles. It might self steer less.

Not too many tyres out there to play with, I want to try the maxxis offering.

Out of interest what pressures have people tried? I’m 11st 3 and have used 16 psi front and 20 rear, but I might up the front to try and reduce the self steer.

Ive not been out this week to have more of a play with pressures, only a rip round the garden. It’s amazing how nimble the bike feels for tight turning.

There was very little weight difference for mine. Carbon rims and shorter spokes offset against the old, plus I was running pretty tough tyres in 2.35/2.4 on the 29″ anyways

That 3.0 tyre looks pretty close to the fork, shame as it looks a nice tyre profile. I’m looking for another 2.8 for the front that’s more uniform than the Trax fatty as it self steers too much for me. The trailblazer is really only about 2.6 wide.

Smuggler looks good

I only take the roadie down there. Go smash a nice ride to lands end via the coast.

Its about the only time I find road biking e enjoyable.

If you are washing out pay close attention to your bar height, you may want to lower it as they get a bit high on a 29″.

I still think it depends what you ride.

Average trail, sanitised or xc stuff there is no doubt 29″ has obvious benefits.

As the trails get more technical and you verge towards dh, I really dont think the benefits of roll over are there, or are limited. You rely on your skills of body position, hopping and popping more.

Good price though. I think they will sell well

You can’t just compare wheel sizes. Most 29″ out there are aimed at xc (more coming out with an am style now).

I’m very happy smashing my canfield yelli 29″ at pretty much anything trail wise, but it’s got geometry to suit that.

I’m down to 2 bikes now. A decent full sus that can do uplift days, local dh trails and a full days ride, and a 29″ ht that i use for the local forest and more xc style events. (although it’s now sat on 27.5+ wheels atm)

It’s about picking the right bike for what you ride.

Our frog tadpole has been used by all 3 kids. Just make sure you find a current version with the brake on top of the rear (i would say triangle, but it’s just a chainstay, without a chain..) anyway the older model with the brake on the underside is best avoided as my kids have had some neat grazes from it when catching their legs

Not all 29″ are created equal though. I’ve rode some 29″ that felt like a flexy canal barge, and others that feel like a bmx/monster truck love baby.

Love my ab oval too.

Stu, are bikes are very similar. What rim did you use up front

650+ yelli

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Canfield yelli screamy mk1

2.8 vee Trax fatty front, 2.8 wtb rear. 38mm light bicycle carbon rims in dh layup.

Great fun, enjoyed riding it this am in some mud. Doesnt feel any heavier. Much more comfortable to ride.

Not sure on the front tyre/rim combo. Once you get on the side knobs it really grips and pulls the inside of the bars back. Quite an odd feeling that I got used to over time.

Overspokes tried my canfield yelli mk1 with 40mm carbon rims and a 2.8 vee tyres which are a good bit bigger than the wtb 2.8. Clearance was fine. (so great having a shop willing to build stuff, just to see what’s possible)

Ive ordered the light bicycle 38mm rims, which arrived a few days ago.

Just waiting for overspokes to re open from hols to build them up.

I thought why not, being as I’d just killed my arch ex rear rim. I’ll update when it’s done.

Ah, I found some old threads and the link between ss and some of these cranks.

These were not bought through superstar, they don’t appear to sell these single ring spiderless cranks.

Shame, as they are light and look quite tidy.

Fox launch, feel like knee warmers

The negative posts here include a lot of if’s. The maths stack up for ratio’s, if you get the opportunity, try it.

Losing the front mech and moving my reverb control makes up for losing a little bit of gearing.

Sometimes working a bit harder results in some improvements to your fitness.

Last year I would not have entertained a 1x set up.

I made sure in my 1x set up I still had a low enough gear that’s near comparable to a 2x set up. Sure I lost the equivalent of one gear, but for the climbs I need that type of gear I’m better off walking or running.

depends on how steady you are with an angle grinder… cut a small notch and flat blade screwdriver it out. Might mean sacrificing the holder though.

at least yours arrived safe. My raceblades looked like ace ventura had delivered it, and the clips had all fallen out. CRC replaced it with 24 hrs though, credit to them