I picked up a switchback unveil 9 frame (hammerhead thumper) and also goes under various other names.

I sized up to a large to get the larger reach. I cut the seat tube down and reinforcing bar off. Slapped in a -2 deg headset.

I built it as a winter bike but my Bronson seems to be gathering dust as it’s so fast.

I’d leave the Aero helmet. That would ring alarm bells for me.

Are they just winding you up though? Maybe they know you are fast. I’d suspect a paper thin person to ride well..

Nothing better than turning up on ‘not the latest gear’ and proving the body is the deciding factor.

Plenty going for the slowly grinding them down approach.

Personally, I’d get this out of the way early. Smash the first climb and wait for them, then just ride with them and enjoy it.

I find the gorby is a great workout.

Jon’s mix I found too difficult to get short sprints to work properly.

As for racing, yikes it’s just flat out. I have only done 1 and it was manic.

Well, couple of months have passed. It’s still in one piece and it took a rather large drop to flat on Sunday. Rides so much better with the seat lower. I’ve also dropped out the 140 yari and put a 160 pike in (running a bit more sag than normal as ideally I’d prefer it to be a 150).

I prefer the pike.

In 29″ format I’ve rode both and ditched the yari in favour of the pike. The lock out on the yari is better,but I just get on with the pike damper better on the chatter. As I had a pike on the other 27.5 bike I just felt it didn’t match up to the pike performance.

The yari is a good fork, just to me the pike is a bit better.

Careful, the canyon one is not the current model. I don’t believe it has navigation like the current model.

I’ve just used mine and it paired flawlessly with my phone, HR strap and cadence sensors.

My eps seem pretty comfy, and are breaking in a bit more each ride. Not as warm as I was hoping for though.

I’ve found after coming back to this bike (been riding something else) the seat is a bit low, and ideally I’d like to move it up.

It’s a reverb, it will break at some point.

Thanks for the suggestions of atf and silkopen.

It’s difficult to get anything on the post shaft as only 1cm is visible between the collar and seat clamp.

It’s been ridden the last 2 rides with the clamp undone (but not since I’ve been soaking it). I may reassemble and ride it again.

Yep, it’s a reverb that’s not gone for warranty. Nor has it ever needed bleeding or air topping up.

Lezyne super GPS, world of pain or worth a punt?

This did have carbon paste on it (2 years ago+) but as you say it’s hardly ever moved in that time.

I’ll continue soaking. I think I’ve started to see some fluid seeping through the collar. Hopefully the plus gas is starting to make its way through.

Yep the collar will untighten as will the post with some torque on it.

Very limited bashing/twisting with a dropper post…

It’s got plus gas soaking in it now. Tried again tonight with some wiggling and shock. Not budging.

Simon, I think I’d do that as a last resort if/when the reverb stops working.

Caustic soda, right oh. I’ll crack on with dropping some in….. :)

My synapse is a bb30, just bearings pressed into the frame as suggested above, it’s quite common for it to creak. I’ve got through a couple of sets of bearings.

Holy crap!

Thank goodness I didn’t get the wheel wet, as I subsequently used it to cut a couple of steel bolts. I should really know this. Thermite isn’t to be messed with!

Binning that wheel and maybe I’ll invest in some alloy specific wheels.

I’d bet a few people suffer badly from this, as it’s not something I’d considered.

http://www.finishing.com/317/17.shtml

Agreed,I’ve gone a bit lower than the ideal height but I’m up for sacrificing pedalling efficiency for a lower seat, and reducing any potential moment on the seat tube.

What could be a factor is the reverb is a 30.9 and I have a 100mm Sleve in the seat tube to the correct dia..

In any case, it’s a cheap winter build from a 29″ ht I could not sell for a good price

Cheers!

I don’t think you can trim the reverb collar.

This way I can drop the saddle beyond the ideal pedaling position, for when I’m playing.

I’ll take it to the local dh trails tomorrow and see how it goes.

I did have to use a smear of filler to remove some of the angle grinder marks. Also, there was a hole in the tt to fill

Theporge, noted.

Clearance is fine with a flat shock.

Load path on big hits is up the stays and to the shock mount. I just need to be mindful how much I load the seat tube when seated.

Most of my riding is up fire roads and then down trails.

Time will tell if it survives.

Well, no going back now.

I had the angle grinder out to fix the wife’s exhaust.

So here it is

View post on imgur.com

I’ll update the post if it snaps.

I’ve rode 38mm light bicycle rims for 2 years.

Built with light gauge spokes by my lbs, overspokes, so they are not harsh.

Yep, they square the profile a bit, I use hr2 and minion Ss and it doesn’t affect the huge side knobs traction.

Light, no issues with them. Can’t say I notice a serious advantage over the previous wheels with flow rims. They do look huge with a 2.4 front hr2 front.

I ran the rear down a descent at dyfi with a blown out ardent. No lasting damage.

The rear has been retensioned once, and the front has never needed it.

My comment still stands, angle headset and air shaft/spring would make it a very capable bike.

I’ve found I’m as quick across the board on my 140/130 slack, long 29″ (in arguably worse conditions) as I am on my 160/150 Bronson

The zee cranks are flipping heavy though. I am going to try the yari fork with a 150 air spring. I have bottomed the fork on the local dh trails. This should remove my low bb /pedal issues.

No cage bolts to worry about, just that bend by the mech mount.

As mentioned above is it 120 travel?

I’d slap a -2 degree headset and put a 130 air sleeve in the fork (is it a pike? Some evo ‘s got these).

It’s a two-fold problem of my legs not quite being long enough to use a preferred saddle and pedal combination, and I’d like the seat a touch lower on the ‘gnarrrr’

I’m minded to think if I were chopping the seat tube to near the top tube (25mm or so) I would not be concerned about losing the brace. However, I’m listening to the advise above and post dia and insert length (to the bend) need checking first.

You may think I’m ignoring the other comments on the potential to snap the seat tube, but if it’s shortened enough, I can’t see it breaking as the moment on the welds from my seat load is dramatically reduced. I’m also 11st, and the frame cost me very little.

I’ve taken the seat post tube down as much as I can, whilst still leaving enough room for a small clamp above the brace weld. I don’t quote follow what was mentioned about the split clamp and the holes.

The 650 rear wheel might be an option, but I fear it will be a bit extreme and lose the roll over characteristics (it’s got a minus 2 degree headset and 140 fork already, and pedal strikes are easily instigated). I think I’ve read some of your blogs previously, chakaping. The wheel supplier you mention in your blog, was the owner I spoke with who removed his brace entirely (who purchased my canfield yelli frame too-small world)

I’ve made do by using old v12 dmrs and a thin saddle, but I’m not enjoying that saddle, and the pedals don’t help with strikes either.

Time for some more measuring before I crack open the tools.

I have an alloy Bronson. In 2 years I’ve replaced the lower link once and the upper link twice.

It’s cheaper, and quicker to buy a new linkage with bearings already pressed in.

I grease up that lower link every couple of months.

It’s not too bad, I’ve always meant to put some Moto foam in there but it’s never been an issue.

The other issue is that even when the seat is dropped, I don’t feel it’s giving me enough room to move around. It’s too high compared to my other bikes.

I agree, the brace is there to support a moment on the long seat tube, but if the tube is sufficiently trimmed it should not need to be there as its braced by the top tube.

David, it is ano finish. I’m more minded to DIY it. I might do some measuring and planning. I’ll lose the end of the decals on the post, but as its really a winter hack, I’m fine with that.

It’s a dropper post, it won’t go any lower.

Agreed, that seat isn’t the slimmest. I’ve taken the specialized phenom off as its an instrument of pain. It’s got my 170mm cranks on it too.

As for cutting it myself, it’s something I’m considering. Grind down the welds to the brace and then send it away to be refinished?

I’d highly recommend a local bmx club. The skills learnt on bike handling easily translate to any other bike.

Plus a lot of clubs are floodlit, run proper training sessions and bikes/kit need not be silly expensive.

Bmx ers make great mtb ers.

Worth looking at local clubs/tracks near you.

I raced a lot as a kid, I’m sure my parents enjoyed it more than me sometimes. I eventually gave it up and played football just for a change after 8 years or training and racing. Hence I’m pretty laid back with what my kids want to do, they can all ride but it’s always social based riding.

Map of UK bmx tracks:

https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=z4JARLW3g6t0.kPhkdYnz-0xE

Sombrio shazam. Crc had them for 20 in the summer.

30.9 on my 2014 Bronson alloy.

You will be fine, the majority of people there will be riding with no helmets, flip flops and on bmx’s.

My most enjoyable ride there was on my own at 11 pm.

It’s not bad on the climbing.

He did the run more than once, this would mean to me he could judge what was appropriate himself.

He is after all well educated.

If it was a blind run and he felt pressured into it, and it was not appropriate for his skill base that’s another matter.

Jedi didn’t tell me to do anything…he just used some freaky mind trick.

I went, and we did it twice over back to back. It’s a tough old loop doing it twice. Last section is great. it’s Rocky and takes no prisoners on tyres. I enjoyed it, both down and ups.

Penmachno is very different

I’ve hung mine up. It’s a cracking tyre and the minion held up well at a wet fod dh. Whereas my friends rock razor was all over the place. I think the minion has bigger side knobs.

Good luck Mboy.
Glad I didn’t go for a ticket as that would have made my current injury even more depressing.

In garage. My logic was incorrect.

Thanks for stopping me wasting my time.

Chief speaks sense. I’d better check my logic.

Bringewood is superb, far less xc than hopton loop and way more natural. Cracking place. You will lose the day there.

I’d rather spend half a day there and them cross over to Mortimer on the other side (bit more xc runs, not as steep as bringewood)

I have a rural commute, so very different circumstances. Bike goes in the basement at work and is not left out.

I’m not a fan of road riding, but it certainly helps my mtb riding.

2.5 years on my planet x pro carbon with race blades and 25mm tyres. Used in all weathers it’s been good value for money in only needing chains and brake blocks.

It is white under all its grime.