You’ll get an email with the tracking number in once its in dispatch. Well, I always have had…

glasgowdan – later ReignX’s have a tapered headtube and 135×12 maxle backends. Can I ask what your looking to pay for an older one?

There is a ReignX frame in my shed that was formerly my playing about bike. Worked fine with 160mm up front (thats what Giant sell it with), it also worked fine with 170mm up front. Its not the lightest of bikes for pedalling, but its not the heaviest. It pedals well, the Maestro platform does a pretty good job for a fairly long travel bike. My only issues were the TT being short for me and the shock rate being less than ideal for a man of my stature, which is why its a frame in the shed and not a bike in the shed.

The Pickenflick is made by Waltly. I doubt they’d just make a copy using PXs drawings, but they might. Ask ’em.

Be careful. If you undo the nut on the internal piston and it’s swapped air (like mane had) the nut will fire off and hit the ceiling, leaving a spray of oil across everything.

Complete rebuild never did fix the issue and post languishes in the shelf still…

Blackspire isn’t made in Taiwan, its made in Canada. It’d be great if Works actually did the 30t version they’ve been talking about, but they’ve not. Can’t see the Works 30t being less than the £38quid the BS 30t costs from CRC, shame.

Cheeky Monkey – Is your post baggy when near its max mark, ie with the end of the post ~100mm into the frame? If so, thats what all three of my frames have been like, though the current one (from this latest batch) is better than the pervious two. You’ll find (or I did) that if you have more post in the frame it stops being baggy (basically the seat tube has an hourglass internal shape due to the welding). I “solved” the issue by buying a 450mm long post so I get a good 6inch insertion. Be careful if you just crank up the seat clamp or shim the post. I did that on frame number 1 and cracked the seat tube at the end of the post.

You are using a 31.6mm post though, right?

Well there you go. That’ll teach me to listen to Brant.

Wasn’t there an issue with On-One’s own Smorgasbord tyres? The single compound ones fit fine, but the dual compound ones were a larger diameter and rubbed IIRC.

Even with only about 4mm between my tyre and the seat tube, I’ve never had an issue, even in clay.

Well my 3rd frame finally arrived the other day. The latest iteration seems a bit neater; Rear post mount is simpler and inline. ISCG is also straight, which the first 2 were not. Seatpost tolerances are better too, but the butt weld issue remains (solved by having more than ~110mm post insertion). As a friend said to me last night though, it wouldn’t be an On-One (I know its a Titus…) without a few quirks.

Having been off the bike for 11 weeks it was good fun to be back riding it last night. It really is a fun yet fast bike. You can’t be having a bad day because it won’t let you fart about at the back of a group.

Eh? I’ve yet to read a review that’s negative about the plus….

What problems have you experienced?
Well, if you are a man of stature, then you’ll find yourself running on max rebound. Thats fine when cold, but after a good long run it starts to kick a bit. They say it’s been fixed for 2014, but not tried one myself yet. Also, with sufficient air in the can to hold my arse off the ground its neigh on impossible to get full travel as the can is too small (and thats with an HV can) and there is too much compression damping. True, for lightweight match men who need to eat pies, these are not likely issues.

Then in general is does like hard sharp hits, it spikes. Also, slow speed wallow is not handled well.

YMMV, we are all different and one man’s gem is another man’s poo.

It’s bigger, so it’s hard to compare. The ReignX has a shorter stroke shock for longer travel, so I worked the shock a lot more (blew it twice but only rode the thing a couple of dozen times). I’d say the Mega pedals better but feels as good down.

I’m 6’3. Frame size for me is dictated by the fact I have a 410mm post on max to get leg extension. No way I’d fit a large. That said, the TT on a large would be too short for me anyway.

It rides fine. There a bit of granny ring pedal feedback if you g-out whilst pedalling in the granny. Never noticed it in the big ring (running a double ATM). Its no lightweight, the XL frame with Monarch+ weights the same as my old ReignX with a coil DHX3, but I’d rather than than it broke (3.8kg IIRC, I’d have to check to be sure). With a 170mm fork and a 50mm stem you get some front end wander on steeper climbs as you might expect, but is a hoon on the way back down. Rear pivots knocked from new, LBS said it was my BB but they lie like a cheap rug. I stripped the rear and rebuild it to torque spec and it still knocked. So I stripped it again, greased and threadlocked where I figured I should and did things up better and now its knock free and no issues since. Paint is cheap, chips off really easily. Monarch+ is a bit poo, but we all know that.

So far I’m very happy with it overall.

You want to read the Banshee blog, it spoke some sense on wheel size physics. Not much sense, but some…

The advantage of the Park apron is the front pockets are “hinged” so when you lean over things don’t fall out.

You need to chase.

Yes, you can put a bottle cage inside the front triangle (on my XL anyway).

Does anyone put a mudguard on to look cool? No. They get up on to avoid soggy chamois and mud in the eye. Fashion police can hibernate when its wet SFAIAC.

Why would you build a Ti full sus? The point of Ti is it gives a nice ride characteristic for the weight. That characteristic, of inherent damping is not needed on a full sus, so its a waste of the material. Indeed Ti’s characteristic flex/give would be a hinderance to keeping the pivots of a full sus in line.

I have set the adjuster, as above. It just means it moves correctly over the block, it doesn’t sort the potential for chain tension issues which is down to the very short cage. 2 separate considerations.

The cage provide enough chain take up for the difference between an 11 and a 36 rear cog just fine. If you have a full sus with an especially high chain growth ratio then you may be screwed I guess, but it would be an exception rather than the rule.

Buy an old Airport Express off eBay for a few quid. Simple.

Saint works fine with 11-32 (or 34 or 36) so long as you set the “mode converter” to the longer B link.

I’ve split three Switch alloy freehubs, they just shear. S* gave me a steel one (which is made of pig iron its so heavy) ‘cos they wouldn’t accept it was a shit design of hub. Seen a few Tesla’s exploded too. Mind you, I’m having to think hard for a brand I’ve not broken or seen broken first hand. Everything is shit, really.

What you want is one of these. http://on-one.co.uk/i/q/WSSALPG/sapim_leader_plain_gauge_spoke Puts you over the free postage level just nicely. Handy for, well, whatever a spoke is handy for.

Can I get in touch even with the restraining order in place? :wink:

My tin foil shim packer disintegrated last night, leading to post slippage again. Arses. I really need to find a more robust solution. I think this may involved a lathe, a block of steel and a lot of cutting fluid. Anyone with ideas please do shout.

Perhaps a bolt through the frame and post? :twisted:

As you say the_lecht_rocks, fast. Its odd how much quicker things are on the FLE. I rode some older trails last night that I’ve not ridden on the FLE before and the way it keeps speed over roots and through loam is just addictive. Only downside is Ias being held up by 26er friends ;)

Interestingly (well, to me anyway) I had a similar issue on a Sustrans National cycleway route last night. I was stopped by a security guard and told that access to the route was closed after 7pm and that I shouldn’t be where I was, despite being firmly on the tarmac of a National Cycleway.

Can National cycleways restricted by local rules or are they accessible 24/7? Anyone know who at Sustrans to contact?

So a 30.9-31.6 use shim with extra packing from a foil takeaway tray had a 30.9 post in and solid. Sorted (I hope, not riden it yet!). A minor hassle but worth it I think. Good fun bike.

2yr warranty, FYI.

I popped a 31.8-27.2mm USE shim into my FLE this evening, with a liberal amount of Loctite 638. Seems not to rock, so a good solution if you can live with a 27.2mm post.

I can’t really live with a 27.2 so my next plan is to use a 31.6-30.9 shim with some extra backing between the frame and shim. Need to roll out some sheet to the right thickness, perhaps on Sunday.

Happy days :)

So yes, measuring 4″ down inside the seat tube with an internal calliper shows the diameter of the tube is 32.05mm. That’ll explain the rocking.

Johnhighfield, I can measure at the top, that’s easy, but I need to measure 4″ down. I’ll pick up internal caliper when I’m in Bath tomorrow. I don’t get post slippage (I have a nice big clamp) just rocking. You don’t notice it when riding, it’s like you get on an adjustable post anyway.

Nice bike otherwise. Was it rushed? I think Waltly were working to a budget and OO/PX didn’t check enough. It’s what I’d expect from catalogue Chinese stuff. Not that this is but it’s what I’d expect, if you follow.

I need to buy a calliper that measures down in holes, ‘cos I’m getting seat post waggle even with the clamp done up. Tried two posts (Nukeproof and Bontrager) with the same results. Both measure 31.6mm with my normal callipers. I’m fairly certain the seat tube is oversize. Anyone measured theirs properly? I’m thinking of shimming it using a 31.8mm shim and seeing if that will take up the slack (though I can only find 31.8 to 27.2 shims and thats less than ideal).

My 20″ was an ounce under 4lbs IIRC.

Someone asked about ride impressions. Its a bike. I’ll admit I’m not a seasoned 29″ owner, but it handles much like folk tell me they do. You have to muscle it into corners or it runs wide. Its not as flickable as either my 456 or my BluePig. It is a heck of a lot faster though. It isn’t as stable at speed in rough stuff for whatever reason, wheels are more flexible, as are the forks (though same fork and rims on 26 and 29, just larger on 29), but it does kinda feel like the bike is starting to get its knickers in a twist when you hit a rock garden. It does find its own line and not beat you up though, its just different. Not good nor bad I guess.

I wouldn’t mind slightly longer stays myself (and not just cos I’ve had the back wheel nearly lock up with shit between it and the seat tube), perhaps just personal taste. Its a little to easy to wheelie when climbing (and I refuse to flip the stem over).

For £500 you can’t complain really. For £700 I’d still not TBH. Its nice.

Oil is easy. Print this, laminate it, and fix it to the wall of your shed.

http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/YL3tV_-p2R7RHzoYEvE-kYZ9IWS_u4gj_2ldmQp4Ano/mtime:1340230333/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen_0000000004198_rockshox_suspension_fork_oil_chart_2013_0.pdf

I might be a little special when I’m in my shed, true :P

You won’t die, no. You;ll just have a higher front end and a slacker head angle. You may prefer that. You may void your warranty too, ask OO if you care.

The fork comes with two 10mm spacers which you can put onto the spring rod easily enough. Its worth stripping and lubing a new RS work anyway. Mine were very dry :( Only take 10mins to lube and add the spacers in.

It’s a shame OO seem to only sell the old style headtube badge and not the new one that the full price FLEs come with. Doesn’t seem right sticking the old one on a new frame. Also don’t have the replaceable dropouts available yet. Ho hum.

To the chap complaining about his ISCG mount being out. They do say the cheap ones are, though only in a picture and not in the main text where it still incorrectly states ISCG05 (I’ll stick the word Brant in here do this comes up in his vanity search ;)). Seat tubes are baggy yes, but carbon grip and a good collar work for now. Long term I reckon I’ll need to ream it and glue on a shim. We’ll see. It was cheap I guess. American cheap too sadly.

badbog99, was yours a full price one or a cheap out of spec one?

I emailed on one about decals and was told to f’off (politely). Bastards.

Just a FYI. For those expecting decals, don’t. Apparently these are sold “as raw” and thus no decals. Not very clear on the site, but On-One have just told me this via email. A bit weird, ‘cos when I bought my 456 it was “blue” but still had decals. Can’t complain to much at the price though, just would have been nice to know (and now you do).