It was hardly disobedience. Carolyn asked on the start line to do 4 (it had been posted all day as 3 but why ask at a convenient time eh?) and was told she could. But that doesn’t make controversy does it. Mind you if she did continue after being told she was on a 3 lap race she’d have to have been penalised, which would have been controversial. But she didn’t as she wasn’t so I guess this “journalist” has to stir the pot.

You need to change the wipers to to get it the same as a Lyrik. Cheap RS seals in a Yari, posh SKF in a Lyrik. Or so I hear, YMMV, etc.

Having changed the seals and put a Charger in mine it only feels better to me when you are really pushing in the chunky stuff. 95% of the time its hard to notice, but that 5% is generally when I’m hanging on for dear life and need all the help I can get, so…

I didn’t like the Luftkappe in my Yari. Horses, courses, etc.

I had my soles coming away. Shimano replaced. My mates ratchet strap has torn off and is currently “being looked at”. If not be buying another pair.

The bc site does indeed list many comms. What it doesn’t show is active comms. There is a huge shortage of active comms, and issues organising them. Look at the last couple of BDSs as examples. Both under comm’d.

I like Garburn, Gatesgarth and then Nan Bield but then I am one of those weirdos that likes to carry their bike up hills

Do you do Garburn east to west then? I made that mistake the first time. I’m not a weirdo so was a bit miffed. Maybe I’ll do west to east later this week. Bloody lovely in the Lakes today it was.

TF use a different seal when they service. Same design, just different material iirc. Has lasted so far after mine were services for having the damper dump it’s load.

Having installed Peace this morning, I must say it does make mobile web viewing feel extremely quick in comparison to yesterday. I don’t mind ads, but the speed is the thing for me.

Fair play Slugrider, I’m 15mins away and staying in tonight. Horrible out there! From the comfort of my sofa I can tell you what it’ll be like over there, muddy, slippery, fun!

They can, but the chainline is poor.
Though running a Boost chainset on it would help…

If you stick a single on the outer of a triple its Bob on. I’ve checked two frames since I’d assumed as you do.

I also ran the same setup on my old Bullit. Worked perfectly.

It won’t – cranks are too wide.

Not really. Banshee Prime can run 150 rear with a 73 BB, works fine, even as a double.

I have a Salsa 29er rigid fork on my 26″ on-one 456. It’s a similar length to a sagged 140mm fork, so rides lovely and doesn’t put more stress on the headtube (unless you assume you only crash headon with a fork fully compressed). Just do the math and get what suits your frame/riding.

Where do I get my info from? Talking to folk in the know and seeing with my own eyes.

Wouldn’t stop me buying a Banshee necessarily though. Quite fancy a Phantom, despite being warned of the issue by folk I’d trust to know better than most.

Draw triangles, work it out. As for being superseded, 142 already is by Boost, but do you care? You’ll get 142 hubs for years to come and if 142 wheels are strong enough for you (do the math, learn from experience) then do you care?

From a white board and experience, I went past boost and bought a 157mm rear for my new 29er. Horses, courses…

A lot of shocks on Banshees seem to wear prematurely. It’s not alignment, it’s flex.

what’s a typical xc race lap? – 8k(ish)? 30mins(ish)?

No. Ideally about 15mins for the elite men, about 6km.

A BDS round next year costs £95. And you think Enduro is expensive?

About half are in stock at Madison already. The others look like December iirc.

The full details of the 2016 range are in the catalogue http://www.scribd.com/doc/277106216/Banshee-Bikes-2016

Loving the blue w/yellow Phantom.

Dipped my toe in the carbon waters with some On-One Knucklebars when they were on offer a while back. Good shape and sweep and hold my controls and grips in the right place. Saved about 50g over my previous aluminium bars IIRC. Went for the ‘hard’ option though, so no danger of damping any trail buzz!

I’d disagree with your lady statement. Having ridden Knuckleballs back to back with Aluminium bars (Nukeproof and Raceface) the KB does take some buzz out IMHO. It’s not as much as some lighter weight bars, sure, but they still do.

Just read that there were no Bronsons, 5010s or TBLT at the Santa Cruz booth at interbike this weekend.
Definitely something going on.

What’s going on is Eurobike. Interbike is in 2 weeks or so.

Just need a longer air shaft, or one of those extender things someone makes.

Surely no one is surprised by FUD on an Internet forum?

According to Enve the Syndicate team only broke 10 runs all last season. If you speak to Jason Marsh and Greg Minnaar about spoke tension (as I have) it’s quite interesting. Nothing really to do with pure grip in corners, more to do with allowing the wheel to track better and not be deflected.

The analogy to motorbike chassis/wheel stiffness is a bit moot. There is all about numb absorption when the bike is leant so far over the suspension is ineffective. That’s quite unlikely on a push bike off road!

There’s a bike called a Battlecat?

A mythical beast, perhaps? Sadly it doesn’t come in green and orange.

I don’t find superstar’s weights optimistic. Both the loose DS25s I’ve had have been as advertised (within 8 grams anyway)

All M771-10 11-36 here. CRC will just ask for a photo then send you a new one, that’s what they’ve done everytime for me. It’s always been the largest two cogs on the smaller of the two carriers that one loose or indeed come off if you leave them too long. Alloy carrier deforms and rivets come loose.

I’ve had 5 XT cassettes go like that. Shimano deny there is a issue. I’ve been given a new one everytime.

For that can you could get some DT 350hubs with S* DS25 rims from S*, as I did for winter wheels last winter. Very impressed tbh and I wasn’t really expecting to be.

I’d get S* DS25 over the Tactic, having had both.

The pub.

I find tyres blow off, or roll off, with 721s when tubeless. In the end I ghetto’d mine and they’ve been fine since.

American stuff like that is often much cheaper in B&M. Peanut Butter M&Ms for example. Mmmm.

Shit. 50% more for rims from Travers than it was direct a few months ago. F’k that.

That’s a shame. Bought some Nextie rims earlier this year, been great. Was pondering more but not if now more $$$ than LB.

The Scout is surpringly capable. It’ll handle the Alps fine for a week. If you are mostly trail riding the the Patrol will be too much bike for the sake of the odd big DH. He Scout feels like more than its 125mm would suggest.

Don’t bother with a brolly, it’ll blow away. Take a midge net and a hat to wear underneath and keep it off your face. Take good walking boots if you want to head up the hill. Bring a camelbak.

I had a strange issue with a skipping post. Turned out my QR clamp had quite a deep lip, so the lip hit the post before the clamp really compressed the seat tube. In effect it was acting only as a stop and not a clamp. I filled off the lip and solved the issue. I doubt that’s the OPs issue but hey.

Ditch the Rev. Then get a proper carbon rim. I did both, steering now sorted.

When I needed to replace a nipple on a Gorilla taped rim, I just poked a hole in the tape, sorted the nipple and stuck an inch of tape back over the hole. That was a year or so ago. Using Stans sealant. No problems.

Agree that if you want to remove it it leaves a mess, but why remove it? Plus nail polish remover (from the wife’s budget) gets it off with a bit of elbow grease.

Pivot bearings in most bikes need maxx, or otherwise known as full compliment, beatings. Hubs do not, and indeed using maxx in hubs will cause premature failure.

Good quality maxx bearings will last ages in an NP Mega, mine were over 2 years old before I changed them and I only changed them ‘cos I thought I should before another season of mud and Alps.