Off to start a “What size XX chainring for Mayhem” thread.

Worlds heaviest Inner tubes constructed like a 1920’s nodder? Wilkos!

FTFY
For what its worth we charge £5.99 for schwalbe, and so do most other shops I know, so yes – £7.50 seems a bit dear unless it was long valve/superlight etc.

*wonders if its too late to book a trade pitch…*

Filling up nicely? At 10 am!
Damn these people and their days off!

Looks like I’ll be enjoying the corner of the field furthest away from the start when I finally get there tonight!

We had a customers Zee brake do the same thing not so long ago.
Got it swapped under warranty by Madison.

I’ve just started running a SID RCT3 and its awesome. Feels much better than the Fox 32 and DT XCM’s it replaced.

No.

DT swiss 240.

I stayed on Rons last year (26″ ones at that!) and while rideable I did find it incredibly slippy in places.

^Adam isn’t a scrubbed fred a slick tyre?….

I’m sure the remainds of the tiny side knobs will make all the difference!

teamslug – Member
Shall I start a what tyres for mayhem tang thread?. Got a brand new pair of Rocket rons coming on tuesday or is it scrubbed racing ralphs?.

Scrubbed furious Fred’s?

Thats poo.
Police were there last Sunday too cos someone else’s went.

I’ll keep an eye out for them.

He said he has a long torso (relatively short legs in other words) which would result in the need for a longer toptube to somebody with a shorter torso/longer legs, and therefore the next size up frame is required.

He also said he was getting a shorter stem so the top tube was apparently already to long on the large.

Sounds like you need a riser stem not a bigger frame (I presume that the suggestion for a XL was for a bigger head tube?)

This.

Wait, your issue is your bike is too long, so your solution is to get a bigger one?

Have you tried bleeding it?

My 96 was 22lbs with 2×10, so that seems about right!

9kg flat on the shop scales.
Seems about right – WC ones are 8.8kg with lighter wheels but heavier tyres.

Just measured then in work.
Both road and mtb cups appear to be 10mm.

To run a Shimano MTB HT2 bb on a roadbike, use no spacers at all and re use the centre tube from your old bb (the mtb one is too long).

HTH

You’d need a proper 12T end sprocket aswell rather than one that sits second in line, as that one wont have the knurled surface for the lockring to tighten against.

I’ve been number 001 in the Midlands XC series this year.
Both my races so far have been awful.

It’s definitely not my lucky number!

If you replaced it with a reverb its definitely not 27.2!

Also- 27.2 only in steel frames?
All the xc carbon hardtails we sell have 27.2 posts (for flexy “comfort”).

Just no, purely on the strength of the bar/stem combo!

Alu Merida Big Nine’s have rack/guard mounts. Should be readily available in Oz.

Ordered my frame in September!
Apparently its due to land in the UK on the 22nd of this month.
Seeing is believing!

It’ll work fine – I’ve done it many times with mismatched BSO’s coming through the workshop. Shifting will be pretty much what you’d expect from a cheap 7 speed setup 😉

I know it’s a swear word around here, but the Altura ones are pretty good.

Not Premium Rush.
On the grounds that you probably shouldn’t watch it at all.

Have you ever actually tried this? In real life? With real parts?

EDIT – the 7/8 speed compatability, not the bodging a 9 speed cassette onto a 7 speed freehub.

8sp spacing for shimano differs from 7sp.

that’s why the usual trick to “upgrade” 7speed stuff is to take a 9sp cassette, bin 1 sprocket, and run it 8sp with 9sp shifters+mech.

No it really doesn’t.
7 and 8 speed have the same spacing, just the 7 speed cassette is 1 cog& spacer narrower.
9 speed cassettes (and 10 for that matter) are the same width as 8 but with narrower spacing.

So TL:DR 8 speed shifters will work fine on a 7 speed cassette, you’ll just have an unused click .

Just to add balance I rode there on Sunday on the way back from the Marin, and I thought it was gash!

1×10? how 2013…

Hahahaha, I used the biscuits I get paid in!

Great, you found a good camera shop!
I had to have my phone fixed recently and the phone shop I took it too were hopeless, kept getting put back, no communication – should I infer from that that ALL phone shops are useless?
Or just suck it up that I found a bad one, after all not all businesses are created equal.

Rscott – Member
I Don’t understand why people go to bike shops for bearings.

If you have your bearing, take it to a local engeneeing supplier. there will be a tiny code on it somewhere and they will get you the exact same thing for much cheaper.

did a 2004 specialized enduro for £7 the other day.
Hope rear hub £5
Race Face Dues head set £1.20

That’s epically (is that even a word) cheap!
Who’s your supplier?

Friday – 50k Clwyds loop.
Saturday – night ride after work.
Sunday – Marin and Penmachno.
Monday 50k Clwyds loop reverse.

Waiting for the weather to turn horrendous now!

all bike shops are a pita tbh

Bollocks.

For bearings head to the local bearing shop…

Good luck with that – none of the bearing suppliers near us carry any headset bearings, so its back to official distributors.

there’s no such thing as a ‘standard’ 1 1/8 cartridge bearing

This.

I’ve got 3 on the shelf here – give me a shout if you need one.

This years has 336m climbing – Jaymoid’s links seem to be the wrong way round.

If you can stretch to £150, my girlfriend is looking to sell her 15″ Rocky Mountain Element LO.