Thanks. Surely it can’t be designed to be like that, water must get in really easy and all the videos I have watched seem to make sure it is butted up properly.

Thanks for the advice. I’ll monitor ebay and see how much the Lyrik R is going for second hand.

The difference in weight was remarkable to the handling of the bike. The Pikes are about 500g lighter. Plus the brand new 2014 EG doesn’t have a chain device as it runs a type 2 rear mech. So there is a weight saving there too. However, I wouldn’t run my EG without a bash or skid plate from a chain device as I regularly hit the plate on mine at the mo.

What about Flow EX? Thery are meant to be stronger than the old Flow.

I might go for a EN521 on my cheaper hub.

Thanks for the tips. I quite fancy tubeless as have just managed to get my front Stans Flow setup tubeless. Has anyone got experience of 721s tubeless or would 819s be up to the job?

Went on a course with Dirt School a few years ago and that was top notch. Two months ago a group of us did Ed O’s Alpine Prep course, it was fantastic. Both Andy Barlow and Ed O are fantastic coaches.

Ed has a great knack of making the complex, simple and really adding value to each individual rider.

I’ve got the Stock X9 transmission on my V3 EG CCDB.

175mm cranks
Double 39/26 with 11-36 ten speed cassette. I find it perfect, good top end speed but you can still climb some steep shizzle.

It came with the Truvative X-guide chain device which hasn’t missed a beat.

All this bollocks about pedal strikes makes me laugh a bit. You’ll soon find out that the sag setting is pretty critical in getting the ride height correct. I didn’t realise when I first got the bike and was twatting everything in sight. Look at Ed Oxley’s video and follow the advice. Plus if you change your rider weight i.e. if you are doing an all day epic and are carrying a heavy pack, check your sag, you’ll prob need more air.

If you get the sag right and adapt your riding style a bit you’ll not catch anything much.

Hi, Did you get to the bottom of this. I am having similar problems with a virtually new brake (ridden for less than 30 hours). To cut a long story short, my new bike came with Elixir 3s. However, the hoses were too long and the bike went back to the OEM for them to be shortened. My guess is they bled the brake with the half worn pads in instead of a bleed block and when I went to put new pads in I couldn’t get the pistons back flush in the caliper. I let some fluid out and some air must have got in the system as after that the leaver wouldn’t spring back when released and there was no power.

I have just bought a bleed kit and followed the instructions to the letter. I cannot push fluid through the system from caliper to leaver (no matter how hard I push). There seems to be remnants of rubber in the fluid. From previous posts, may be this is something like a broken o-ring. It sounds like a warrantee return to me though …. more problems.

Got my shock modified by TF Tuned Shox for free (Higher Flow Inner Air Can has been fitted). It seems to progress into the last 20% of travel now when pushed. TF put a good base tune in for me and the bike feels amazing now. The rear wheel tracks the ground so so well.

On another note I had some serious issues with other things on my bike that if not sorted would have left me seriously annoyed to say the least. In fact I would have been posting on forums like this telling the world about it. Companies get a lot of bad press when they don’t do things well. However, I must admit that On One/PlanetX gave me excellent customer service with my problems and turned a potentially awful situation into a good one. They have a happy customer here.

Just checked and I am using the rear/lower mounting for the shock. It came like this when I received it from On One and I haven’t changed it. I spoke with TF Tuned and they said they would do the mod for free if I wanted it. I will and find some bigger features to hit before I send it to be modified I think, 3 foot is about the biggest so far.

I understand that you don’t want to be bottoming all the time but the thing with the CCDB Air is you should be able to make it do whatever you want it to do. Part of the setup tuning instructions for the shock from Cane Creek advise you to adjust it until you are getting full travel on big drops and then reign it in to suit. The fact is even with zero HSC I can’t get full travel (a long way off).

I was getting a lot of pedal strike issues at first, rechecked the sag on the CCDB Air shock and I hadn’t got it right for whatever reason. Now running approximately 30-31% (21mm) sag at mammoth riding load (extremely full bag, winter kit, extra food and so on) and after a full weekends riding it seems to be a lot better. You do need to adapt your technique and line choice if you have come from a bike with a much higher BB like I did.

One thing that is puzzling me though is, I am not getting full travel out of the CCDB Air shock. I have even resorted to running the High Speed Compression fully open (i.e. zero) and it still doesn’t seem to make that much of a difference. The last 15mm travel on the shock shaft is not getting used at all even on high speed drops and jumps onto rough ground. Is anyone else having this trouble? There have been a few posts about similar behavior on the Cane Creek website. The following is a quote from their website made by a Cane Creek representative:

“If you are currently running your HSC wide open then you will probably benefit from the inner air can upgrade. You can contact your closest service center to inquire about having the upgrade done.”

To me, that doesn’t sound good, if like me, you have bought a full bike from On One with this shock fitted. In fact it sounds like what is being supplied may not be fit for purpose. I’d appreciate your viewpoints.

Thanks.

Hi,
I have just got an EG v3 with CCDB and reverb. I have ridden it four times now and I am impressed with it. It is my first “big” bike, so I don’t have anything to compare it with.

I am just wondering if anyone else with a v3 is suffering from major cable rub issues on the frame (bike built complete by On One)? I have put protection patches an quite a few places but still seem to be getting a lot of cable rub all around the frame. On the left side of the fork crown the cables have rubbed that much they have worn through the patch I put on (after four rides).
Thanks
Alex