Really keen on the new 2019 Arkose D3. Seems like an ideal do it all bike.

I had two questions, which I’m hoping Jameso (and others can answer):

1. With the removal of the seat stay bridge, how do you fit full-length mudguards?

2. Quite a few mates I know who have Arkoses have experienced problems with headsets loosening – I’ve read quite a lot online of people having the same issue? Has this been addressed with the new frames?

Thanks! 🙂

Thanks guys. Now need to decide do I go Shimano Hydros or Sram CX1.

@Trimix, thanks for the reply. On your second answer, can I check, so as the pads wear the lever throw increases? I thought the hydro system would just adjust to compensate and the lever throw would remain the same.

I have these: they are f#cking awesome!

Currently down to £71.49 from Evans.

Fleece-lined, Boa retention, Full taped zip under a neoprene flap. Best bike footwear I’ve ever owned. Hell, might be the best cycling related purchase I’ve made full stop. All my mates have bought them too now.

I’m 43 in road shoes, 44 in MTB shoes but had to buy a 45 in these. Most reviews have said the same.

Good man. Thanks

@Junk – so you said I *don’t* need to remove it? What tool do I need that will fit inside it then?

@ wanmankylung, leggyblonde and lunge

Longer rugby studs will be just the job. Thanks.

GHill – Member
If you can wait a bit, Fluent in Cross are getting some Horst spikes in. Some long ones should see you right (touch pricey, but they are imported).

Sent him a wee email. COuld be doing with them ASAP.

Any other suggestions?

bikebouy – really appreciate the effort on the BB enquiry. Seems like I’m going to have to select a few options and then try and work out whether I can make them fit, either straight or using adapters before pulling the trigger on an actual purchase. I’m going to look at wheels again before settling, but thinking that Panceti SL25s built to c.1500g for roughly £400 is going to be hard to beat. Don’t want to go tub route, needs to be clinchers.

Pawsy_Bear – you’re right about riders being the biggest factor. I’m 6ft 2in and have dropped from 15st to 12st in the last year and would like to get to 11st 4-6lbs. (dbukdbuk) I got the whole bike new from my lbs for almost the same price as you’d buy the frame, so I’m happy I’m not going to be out of pocket in the long run.

mrblobby – you may as well be speaking russian with that BB explanation 😉 but I really appreciate the effort. Sounds like you’re the rainman to speak to when it comes to this topic! Spacers are made from dark matter, so I’d wager you’re right there.

Edric 64 – my lack of skillz means I’ll be carrying a lot. That and the fact I ride a 14lbs roadie makes the TCX feel like a Sherman tank. 30lbs?! You have my undying respect.

Thanks for all the kind words and input guys. You’ve left me feeling all warm and fuzzy!

mtbfix – Member
Incremental gains…lose the bottle cage. That’s what pit crew are for.

bikebouy – Member
Ahh, now I’ve had a chance to look at the photos I see your problem, it’s all too clear to me and I’m amazed no one else has pointed it out.

It’s your stem spacers, there’s about a kilo right there.

*Goodfellas-esque voice* We got a couple of comedians over here! 😆

bikebouy – Member
I have the Adv1 and it’s a cracker (in baby blue), welcome.

I’ve changed my wheels to some Reynolds Assault carbons jobbies (nice, only had them two weeks, will report back soon) Changed bar to a light alloy Zipp one (stems the OD thingy so left that alone) Seat I’ve got ProLogo Nago Pro (but you’ve got to be comfortable so choose what you want) I’ve got the Rotor Cranks, ace, light and very sexy, you could do worse than these I guess.
Thats it, mines light at 18.5lbs in old money, more than acceptable and a huge amount of fun.

If you are doing this seriously then Wheels (you’ve got that sorted I see) Tyres you could go Tubs if just racing.. Open Clinchers (Grifo/Limus/Almanzo are my combinations) if buggering around. Cranks go 1×10 or 11, Bar (carbon) or super light alloy) and stem if you can get Giant to sell you a carbon OD version. BB is press fit but if you go SRAM or Rotor they come with the BB inserts to fit. Ya can’t change the post as it’s a D shape and Giant’s is super light and stiff/flexy in all the right way. Not a lot to save on discs I’m afraid nor shifters.

Cracking bike, one that I adore riding hard.

bikebouy – Member
Ohh, it’s the same frame the good lads race so not a lot can me saved on that
My forks are carbon/carbon steerer, check yours as they could be the alloy steerer, you maybe stuck with a bit of weight if they are.

I’ve gone through all this weight saving milarcky and only really saved a huge amount on the wheels, the rest is a combination of small gram savings at best.

Thanks Adrian. The Blue paint job is my fav, but couldn’t stump for the cash. Mine’s is the 2016 version (which I think hasn’t changed from 2015). My LBS did me a great deal on it, so I can’t complain!

Sounds like I might be best served pushing the boat out on the wheels.

Like I said, I’m completely confused on the BB standards.
Is it only a BB86 BB that will fit in this frame?
Do the inserts for other cranks fit into the BB86?

Tallpaul – Member
Wheels and tyres are the obvious and will give an all-round more sprightly feel.

I wouldn’t swap the chainset. However, the saddle is probably hefty (the one that came with my TCR weighed a ton!), so there may be a comfier slimline alternative. Also, a new stem may be needed to get the best setup, so potentially a few grams there too.

(Oh, and 9.7 kg is 21 lb!)

Will definitely look at the saddle – it’ll be on the scales tonight.

STATO – Member
BB30 cranks wont fit at all, HT2 design (or GXP) will fit. Essentially they have built bearing cups into the frame, so you’re stuck with that design. Bearings push in, just get the ones that fit the crank you buy.

Check the cassette too, possibly an easy weight loss. Saddle looks heavy too.

Thanks STATO

lunge – Member
Nice bike that, looks like it s a proper sized bike too!

Wheels and tyres are always a good place to start to good choice there.
Beyond that, I find stock finishing kit tends to be heavy so post, bars and stem are worth looking at next.
Cassette is worth a look too, the low end ones are very heavy compared to the higher models with the alloy carrier.
Crank wise, I have a feeling you either need to stay with FSA or replace both cranks and BB if you move away from it. I may be wrong in that though.

Thanks Lunge. Will get some weights on the finishing kit. Will need to stick with the seatpost as it’s one of those carbon d-fuse jobbies – like it and it works well in keeping things comfy! Wouldn’t swap the bar and stem if the savings are only going to be minimal. Will test and see.

It’s an 11sp 105 cassette. I’m only going to save 28g to move to an Ultegra.

sssimon – Member
wheels and tyres for sure, chainset would be a fairly easy 150g off, finishing kit next?

surely theres 100g of excess cable on that front end?

That cable will go soon. It’s bugging my happiness! 😥

will – Member
First of all, very nice bike. Always liked the TCX and that is a beauty.

Perhaps stating the obvious here, but surely the discs weigh a fair bit compared to say frog legs? Again, happy to be corrected, but are disc wheels heavier than rim brake wheels? Obviously you’ve already stated wheels and tyres will be changed, and I suspect that will help a fair bit.

Secondly, maybe 1×11?

Should add that i’ve always found Giant stock wheels to be very heavy!

Thanks Will – photos don’t do it justice.

Discs are definitely heavier, but having used them I won’t go back to cantis. Will go to hydros through time, but fairly impressed with the Spyre brakes.

Thought about 1×11, but will I not have to go Sram for that?

Think the stock wheels come in about 2400grams.

Pawsy_Bear – Member
rider weight?

76kg/12st

breatheeasy – Member
Never had a problem with JustRidingAlong and they’ve doen a few wheels for me.

Their ‘owe brand’ Jawbone wheels use SL25 rims on Bitex (I think) hubs for less than £400 IIRC, or I’d be tempted with DT 350 hubs.

Not heard much about Bitex hubs. Any idea how they compare to the likes of Novatec (which to be fair I know **** all about too :wink:)?

atlaz – Member
http://wheels.23mm.co.uk/ ?

Seems to have a good reputation

Thanks. Had a look. On Novatecs they seem to be building up to £475 without skewers and tape. Don’t know if that sounds reasonable or expensive???

bikebouy – Member
Nice Bike Sir!

I’m going all carbon so can’t help you but hey, Nice Bike!

(I’ve got the Adv1 in blue)

Why thank you. I looked at carbon, not totally dismissing it. Light Bicycle seem to have a decent reputation. Quite liked the look of their 35/38mm carbon rims, but worried about built quality and after market service etc.

P.S. The Blue one is pimping – well done!

Thanks guys

P20 – Member
Tasha has last years cable disc Rose, she’s been very happy with it. She liked being able to spec the bar size, saddle and cassette size. I’ve got the Giant TCX. I’d recommend it, I’d buy another if it got nicked/died.

Both nice looking bikes?

I take it the TCX comes with the TRP Spyre mechanical discs? How do you find them?

Also, thoughts on the wheels and the overall weight?

Thanks

NZCol – Member
FWIW I ended up going the hydro Ultegra and chinese carbon route with a side order of hope/stans wheelset and random finishing kit. 11spd Ultegra. All up it came to bang on 1500 quid which i think with those wheels is good value, you could get it down another hundy or so. The chinese frame is pretty good really for the money. It took from ordering to build about 3 weeks total.

Any chance of a linky to the frame you went with?

GrahamS – Member
I have the Rose Pro DX Cross 4400 (bought Feb 2013). It’s very nice.

Not sure that helps you any, but I’m happy to answer any questions.

Rose service was good (be sure to join the VIP Club before buying a bike for mucho reward points!)

Thanks Graham. And good tip on the VIP club! 😉

1) Is it true that it’s a pretty light bike at this price point? Most of the others are over 10kg where as the rose is ‘apparently’ sub-9kg.

2) How did you find mud clearance and cable routing?

3) Thoughts on the wheels? Again they seem about 3-400grams less that others around this price.

4) What are the welds and paintwork like?

5) Lastly, in your opinion, is it more of a tourer/do-it-all bike, or does it lean more to a proper race bike geometry?

Thanks in advance!

mrblobby – Member
Crux E5 Sport if you want something racey?

Nice bike, but looks a bit pricey for the spec.

AlexSimon – Member
I only had a brief pedal about on the Arkose, but it was enough for me to think that it was more of a tourer/commuter/do-it-all bike than I was after. Not quite as much as the Croix de Fer, but not racy enough for me.

I did get the impression that it was less suited to proper cross racing. That said, I’m not after an out and out cross racer – if I was, I’d buy a Ridley.

DT78 – Member
If you have any worries about backup – Rose’s warranty is fantastic. The longest part of the process was waiting for parcelforce to deliver on its “24hr” delivery.

Good to hear on the warranty. Have read good things about Rose.

Speshpaul – Member
Focus mares 2 disc, 11speed 105, TRP Hydros £1200

Looked at the focus as well. It does seems like a proper race-type bike. Heard people having problems with the amount of lever pull on those calipers though.

pbooker1995 – Member
Giant TCX SLR1 or 2 is hard to beat for VFM. Backup from a local bikeshop, a great spec and lifetime warranty

I really like the look of the Giant frames, but even the carbon version at £1800 doesn’t come with hydros. Didn’t think the kit was that great for the prices.

Also read the alu version are quite weighty.

Think the frame looks ace. Particularly like the internal cable routing.

A set of hydros and it would be a stonking bike.

I have the Elite Chrono Fluid from Wiggle. It’s hands down the best turbo I’ve come across – and it really is as quiet as everyone says.

I do think it comes with a 50×34, but I’m sure you could spec it with a 46 if you asked. I actually quite like the White, but and black, but it will show up the mud!

The XLS has never really grabbed me.

bassspine, those MTB ones you your 700c wheels?

No issues with correct contact?

STONER & JONATHAN – The idea of buying the child support you both have (pic below) certainly appeals as it is not only cheaper but will last my boy a lot longer. I guess I wanted to ask how young you found you were able to use it from – as it looks like it is more upright than the sling I linked to earlier, and therefore would their little heads not drop forward when they were sleeping?

Thanks!

monkeyp – that's why I'm looking for alternative suggestions.

@jonathan – what do you use to hold the little one in your trailer – assuming they are too little for the standard seat?

Monkeyp – I haven't bought the sling yet, but I've just been on the phone to a very helpful guy from Amba (who import Croozer and Chariot products) and apparently this Weber Baby Seat For Chariot & Croozer Trailers will do both types.

jonathan & monkeyp that's where I'm leaning towards.

I have a 2 year old and a 4 month old, the latter of which will go in a sling type seat like the one below. Not sure I'd get a helmet to fit him?

I should probably say, I'm after a Hyundai Santa Fe.