Thanks all for the input! Appreciated. Plenty of options and I like the guide approach best.

@sillyoldman thanks I’ll DM you now. Cheers too @Jordan

Thanks – symptom of watching people use fancy tools on youtube.
Is there a tool to guide the saw, to get a nice square cut? Can just use a basic file to take any burrs off.

Thanks for the help/advice – have decided to save the headache of a vs b and gone for a Medium Tyrant. Cheers!

Thanks @tuboflard – how do you find the sizing? I’m at 55cm which is max for small and min for medium – would you recommend sizing up/down?

30mm front, 25mm rear for me.

Did you try 30mm at the back previously?

I would vouch for the customer service from the guys at Geometron and the bike set up day which they offer with the bike or frame purchase

Yes that has very high universal praise from what I can see

Thanks for the into/advice. More than convinced to get a few demos – happy to try any combination. What works, usually just works.

Going back to the original question… Given its near impossible to test a Saturn 14 ST prior to purchase – I’ll try a G1 first.

Aside of the try/buy experience and the configuration of the bike (eg suspension setup, mutators) – are there any construction/parts differences between a Nicolai G1 and a Geometron G1?

Got a 150 36 on the G13 that works great with the 130 rear.

That sounds good. Assume Nicolai said its fine to run 150, or even 160?

A friend who was die hard 26″ for ages, wouldn’t give up his 27.5″ wheels for love nor money, demoed a G1 recently and tried all setups (27.5, mullet, full 29er)…
He know owns a G1 with 29er wheels both ends and is busy eating his words!

Yes I know its a familiar story – every 29er I’ve tried so far didn’t impress and I’ve been happy back with the smaller wheels. Appreciate it’s not as trivial as that though.

Don’t get me wrong, the Saturn 14 looks great, I just thing personally that with that kind of weight and geometry, you might as well have the travel too… Or alternatively, look for a 2nd hand G15 frame (like mine), or possibly even a G16.

Don’t often see 2nd hand frames for sale – what is the price range to expect for a G13/15/16?

OP.
I’d be looking for a G13 to get what you want out of it.
G13 and G1 owner here.

Looks like the G13 tops fork travel at 140?

Contemplating chucking a Rock Razor on my 29er rear for now though for a bit more speed on the mellower stuff.

Have you tried a Rekon for the rear?

I think a demo day is the only way to narrow down some decisions :)

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/anyone-ridden-the-mojo-nicolai-yet/ I had to double take the 50 page count :/ !

Thanks all for the replies – interesting to read. Not sure if its useful, but build would be fairly average – XY, Hopes, CB alloy wheels and Maxxis 2.4s, carbon bars… Nothing brittle, but also nothing heavy either. Call it a conscious choice to buy once, but also not add needless weight.

Two things I’ve taken note of – the G1 is heavy yes, but the geometry negates that. My old Helius AM (best “feeling” and fitting bike I’ve owned) was weighty, but it was usable and a joy to do any type of riding on. Long XC rides were made more fun and didn’t feel taxing at all. Perhaps safe to assume the G1 experiences are similar?

The other thing is that no-one really talks about the Saturn 14 (ST or non-ST), is this because people just look past it to the G1?

@mboy the point on 29s, yes thats in the back of my mind, but I have been hesitant to go there. Still really enjoy the 27.5s and a nimble ride. Although know I could be proven wrong at any time.

Thanks again

Thanks all. To conclude, I got a OneUp bar, CB Highline 7 dropper and an Ergon SM Pro saddle – happy with all of them!

(deleted, double reply)

Other than the clamp and obviously the shaft, I don’t think so –> https://www.dropbox.com/s/hohhxzyz9phglr3/Highline%207%20BoM-SEP19C.pdf?dl=0. Any moving parts you were thinking of?

Thanks so much for the advice. Frankly it’s difficult to choose. Heart says E4s, head says G2s are enough, Code if you want that guaranteed.

Do the SRAMs need bled if you shorten the hoses on initial fit?

The Code RSCs seem the right choice… The advice has been much appreciated thankyou!

Thanks – you have the Code RSCs not G2s right?

@tall_martin how did you feel the power and modulation, in comparison to the E4s?

Thanks so far. The previous Hope M4s never let me down, that was about 6+ years ago though so not sure whether that reliability exists still today? The SRAMs look more of a disposable unit, but seem solid from what I’ve read…

Any thoughts on the Hope Evo Race lever vs the Tech 3?

Thanks a lot for the suggestions – will look these up. Noted the 27.5/29 wheel sizes…

Would also recommend the Sony RX100.

Or sell back to the gallery/dealer you bought them from originally.

What if the camera you have with you simply won’t do what you need it to? What if your aim is to have pin sharp prints in large formats for your drawing room? In that case your pocket point’n’shoot won’t do, unless it’s something like the new Sony, at 2500 quid.

If you have a specific session in mind, then you’d naturally use the equipment you have access to that fits the job best. This is obvious. For your example, any numb nuts could establish a pocket P&S isn’t the right fit.

The point I was making is – if you buy a large camera and take it out less often due to the weight/size/inconvenience/whatever then you may be getting less value from it than a smaller camera that makes it easier to use more. Its a very common scenario that photographers come by. At the beginning, photography is often about trying everything and enjoying everything – so a tool that allows that is best – whatever it may be (dslr/p&s/rangefinder/etc).

Btw the RX1 requires pretty large pockets.

The best camera is the one you have with you. Its a well known phrase, but absolutely true. Prior to questioning crop or ff, consider whether you want a portable camera or one that requires a medium-large bag to carry the gear. You may decide both makes sense. I don’t believe one makes you more creative – thats a state of mind and approach to your photography. One will give you better image quality – but both can give you photos you cherish.

If you are serious about getting into photography, dont stew on the choice now. Its highly likely you’ll change your gear after a while to something that fits you better.

Thanks for the advice – much appreciated :)

Can you give any directions or how to find you there?

Cheers thanks for the offer :)

Is there a big trail network there? Hoping to get some good technical riding in somewhere?

Have any of you Helius owners compared the AM (or others) to a Cove Hustler?

@lardman – what did you think of what you tried?

I'm running 2.35 Fat Alberts – HiBike.de usually offer decent deals on them

Wouldnt go less

I had the Fat Alberts – they're good in the dry but generally found them to be poor performing in winters.

Hi there, yeah that'd be superb thanks – I'm thinking ahead for Jan-Mar next year anyway so no rush, just want to get the decision made and be sure all other choices are ruled out. Tried to find out how to message you, but cant see an option. Can join you in January then – I'm located around Uxbridge but no problem to travel. Cheers!

6" up front is too much for trail centers and XC – I've tried it and have to say for me personally, or at least for the riding I do – its just unwarranted.

I've looked at the geometry tech sheet on covebike.com and the Hustler and Gspot appear to share closer geometry – at least from what I could compare. But I accept what you guys have said about the relationships – it does seem logical that the Stiffee and GSpot are related.

Here's a long shot – does anyone near west London has a Hustler I could head out for a ride with and give one a go?

Thanks for the responses all – appreciated…

Out of all the suggestions, I think I'll try a Trek Remedy, Lappiere Zesty and maybe an Orange 5.

I've written off ideas about the SC Blur due to geometry, Nomad due to the weight (and cost), Spesh's..just not a fan, the Nicolai's and Turner's (sorry!) due to the prices.

There's something about the Cove's that I love, the geometry is so sorted for both aggressive riding and nice long xc days out. Think I'm 90% decided but what the hell, will try a few to seal the decision :)

Kit – would prefer to get a new frame – but thanks for the offer.

superb pictures… i miss it there a lot – laggan used to be 1.5 hours from my house! now its 10-12 hours! :(

What exactly are you using it for?

If you're after a Canon lens and 1.4 then your options are limited. If you are happy to buy from other brands then you'll immediately lower your outlay.

I've tried the 1.4 and 1.8 35 and 50mm's for portrait work on a 40d – they're pretty good and value is not bad – sharpness was excellent. 50+mm can be hard for general use though due to the crop sensor. However after using a 1.2 80mm on a 5d, it was simply amazing and I know what will be part of the next setup!

I hate to say though, I'm a bit confused why you'd buy a £1800 body and then look to possibly buy a cheaper lenses.