109 miles. Going over the Col du Glandon, Col du Telegraphe, Col du Galibier and finishing on Alpe d’Huez.

Not my longest road ride, but it was :wink: . La Marmotte, real mountain biking!

MrTall – Member
Must be down to your riding style, i’m heavier than you and have never broken a frame. I ride 29ers and historically most of my bikes have been ridden with a 400mm post at full extension with no problems.

Getting out of the saddle more over the bumpy stuff will take a lot of pressure of the area that you keep breaking frames in.

If I bought a quality frame such as a Lynskey I’d expect it to hold together. it is a mountain bike we’re talking about. Ti frames can crack, there plenty of examples out there.

If I were you I’d go custom steel….

timbur – Member
It’s good that we’re all different.

I’ve just re-built my 29er after a love hate relationship with it and am liking it again in a different build guise. It’s fully rigid with only 9 gears now and works for the riding I do.

Saying that Trek 69er SS’s are the best bikes ever.

Tim

Spot on! One of each for me, ss and geared. Awesome bikes.

Just to balance the argument I’ve got a Middleburn 29/42t with an XTR mech. Shifts really well. And I really rate Middleburn rings.

I think front mech adjustment is rarely done well, judging by the problems some people have.

I use the outer two settings, btw.

No probs here. Which of the ‘clicks’ are you using to shift up?

^^^^^ :lol:

Like a steel one but a pound or so lighter :wink:

Orange would ship out production to China, then they’d just be doing the same as everyone else. You could get a P7 copy done at http://www.xacd.com.cn/index1.htm and slap some Orange stickers on it..

I don’t really subscribe to the whole Ti thing, I’ve had two quality Ti bikes and looking at it subjectively, they’re not really worth the extra dosh.

And they can be prone to cracking….

I’d be interested in the s/s frame if your selling. L is good for me.

Easy job. Used Shimano cable cutters on the hose, and trimmed back the plastic sheath to get the (new) olives on. And you’ll need slightly diffent fittings, I went for the full Hope kit. Looks sweet.

I’ve made a small donation, enough for one moob. I await half a picture anxiously… 8O

Simon

tazzymtb – Member
69ers and 96ers like the carver are for the indecisive and ladyboys

I’m no ladyboy, I’m a boy-dy-lay. My wheels are on the other way :wink:

Went fully 29er, (Kona Unit, Gary Fisher Paragon and On-One Ti) liked them but didn’t really rate them. Front end was great but the back end felt a bit barge like.

Now on 69ers – best of both worlds. Front end rolls great, back end nice and short, feels very nimble. Sweet!

I think Kate is far more, err, womanly…

I’ve got a problem with this. One sided in my case, pressure on the nerve sheath, a bit uncomfortable. My spine is a generally a bit shagged though:

fourbanger has it spot on, I bought a frame off here that looked like it needed a respray, now it has been mistaken for new. It’s good stuff.

Stevo210 – Member
They are spanking new. Just colour coordinating.

Sir, I like your style!

eth3er – Member
The consensus is that Shimano chains are better than sram. As you’ll hear more about broken Sram chains than you will about Shimano.

Not here you wont!

What a load of tosh[/i](it is a sunday) :wink: . I’ve been running SRAM chains for years. They’re simple to fit, bullet proof, you can take them off with your bare hads to clean etc, and represent good value. I’ve had no problems on the geared bike or s/s. And I ‘tested’ the durability of a Powerlink by running it on 5 or 6 repacement chains on the s/s which sees lots of winter mud.

Shi*mano have failed me on three occaisions, and even a female riding partner who is quite err…. steady, has has Shimano chain split side plates. And don’t even mention the stupid pin thing.

My experiences match the OP. Time for a change!

I like the Chevin guys. Only ever dealt with them at their tradestand at races but they do customer service IME.

Same as me….

GlitterGary – Member
What angles are those?

Was it welded by a gibbon?

Epic bike knowledge FAIL! Ernesto, who will be grateful of the On-One comparison, will probably be sending the horses head right now…..

Lovely frame though not my favourite colour

GlitterGary – Member
£149 in Halfords?

+ 7.99 for a tin of Hammerite to make it look ok.
but it will build into a proper bike.

Gary – you have a talent!

Go on then, Dave and Bryn:

The wonders of ebay. They charge the seller 14%, so don’t expect them to support you!

You’re in the right, but potentially stymied. Wheels cost no more than £15 to post. I’d offer him a fiver extra towards costs and try to get the wheels off him.

It’s then your perogative to decide on appropriate feedback ;-)

I’m with Elfin, very aesthetically pleasing.

Seen too many Ti frames crack.

Keep it real (if you’re a lottery winner) ;-)

That Pinarello has too many brakes….

Ti bolts are £30, end caps £25 a pair. It’s worth up to £60 if it’s really clean and a usable size.

You haven’t said wether it’s JIS or ISO taper, or the shell size.

Which is different from my experience. The paint on my Bob Jackson fixie is variable and chips like mad….

6’4″ here
19.5″ 69er for everything :D

I can’t make my mind up :wink:

Chain a bit short? You are on big/big there fella… :wink:

Sweet steed though.

I’ve been riding in the sunshine, subsequently I’m very tired. But I’m still amused at your appalling spelling :wink:

You don’t ride much then? :wink:

I gave up on Shi*mano years ago, endless shagged feehubs and driveside cones. A poor choice if you ride all year round.

So does mine, see doggy pron ^^^^^^!

I created a new album, can’t post from there. No probs from my original album though….

Still, it’s definitely me! Thanks anyway everyone!

UUURRRGGGGHHHH!

+2 teeeth on the rear = roughly the same gear.

steve_b77 – Member
It’s a crease in the metal, got to be 2mm deep.

You can see it from 10ft away with ease.

Walk away! It could dangerous, as it’s aluminium it could fail without warning after fatigueing. But then again life’s a gamble, what’s the worst that could happen…

That is quite sweet in a retro ritchey way, but why do they feel it necessary to bend tubes?

What’s wrong with SRAM chains epi?

this is seriously pi$$ing me off now…

34t SS ring / new SS chain / new 17t SS sprocket / new tensioner What make? Tensioners can be a problem, I’ve found the DMR bolt on ones to be good. I’ve also found the sprung ones to be problematic.

chain length although on the long side not a contributory factor, chain lines spot on.

Don’t be so sure, a long chain will reduce the wrap around the sprocket. This is NOT GOOD in the world of singlespeeding!

chain seems to pick up on sprocket and clunks rendering the bike unrideable.

Is is jumping under pressure or chainsucking (as your words seem to indicate)

i’ve tried a 16t sprocket and all was fine, and a 17t sprocket broken out of a cassette and that was fine.

With what chain?

i assumed the original 17t ss sprocket was faulty so ordered a posh spanking new one and its clunking again!?

What make and width?

i’m out of ideas, its been weeks and i’m seriously hacked off. please help!!

I had all sorts of problems using a 1/8th set up. I bit the bullet after some advice from here and went to 3/32. No problems at all. Middleburn/ Sram 8 speed/ Surly 3/32nd.

I’ve put a DMR tensioner/ Surly sprocket on my son’s s/s after some issues with the sprung type. Very reliable. If you insist on using a sprung tensioner shorten your chain and get it to push up.

As is most often the case it’s the owner that is the problem. Or in this case your particulalry dim sister in law.

Dogstrust is the way forwards, they can woork miracles.

Don’t have it put down, this isn’t the dogs fault.

Oh, and change your vet.