How do you deal with the water movement when stitching so many pics together?

Luck & Software….

Ball Bridge Sheffield S3

Cairngorm form the shore of Loch Morlich

Abersoch Beach, N Wales

OP fail, not a panoramic, but we’ll let you off because it is so damn gorgeous! Lovely pic.

It’s not a classic ‘letterbox’ panorama format, but it is 8 images stitched using panorama software. Images shot in portrait not landscape.

The Waterfall at Glencoe is 36 images from memory. I’ve got a 72″ print of this. It looks awesome!

Waterfall in Glencoe

Woods at Coed-y-Brenin

Glencoe and Glen Etive

Double post

Yes. Had a look at the 310XT and lat – long can be displayed, or GB Grid ref.

Solar PV 4mm t&e run to the roof space from the cu area with plenty of spare tail for termination at isolators etc in the future.

3 core cable to possible zoned area for smart thermostats lead to heating controls

6mm cable for air source heat pump

Not quite a vintage as some, but this is epic.

I’ve been playing the same game of Civilization II for almost 10 years. This is the result. from gaming

There is another option, and I have made a couple of assumptions here:-

1. The socket outlet in question is part of a ring final circuit
2. The ring final circuit does not have a high load. (Generally, socket circuits outside a kitchen / utility room have a low load in a domestic environment).
3. The 2 legs of the ring circuit come directly from other outlet points, without underfloor junction boxes or spurs.

You could convert the existing ring circuit into 2 radial circuits. Identify the supply cables to the socket by the stove where they exit other sockets. Terminate the two cables and connect them to the earth cable leading back to the Main Earthing Terminal (MET) at your consumer unit. This must be done for both legs of the supply to the socket that needs to be disconnected. You MUST change the MCB to a B20, from a B32 because the a 2.5mm cable cannot carry a load of 32Amps. You must also test the 2 new circuits to ensure that the Zs is correct. If you are a competent person you are allowed to do this yourself, providing you are not in a special location. If you are not a competent person and/or do not have there instrumentation to check the earth fault loop, get a spark to do it for you.

If you’ve done the disconnetion work or located the cables for him, it will be a very quick job for the spark.

Don’t take risks or cut corners with anything.

Any buried cables that are left in the wall must be DEAD, and connected to the MET.

All outdoor electrical works is notifiable to Local Area Building Authority and should be undertaken by a suitably qualified person. Also, suitable protection MUST be included in the design of the circuit.

LED Floods are good and reasonably economical. Metal Halide floods are also very economical.

Is there access to the sub-floor from elsewhere in the the house? Or, can access be achieved.

You must to remove the conductors from the wall if you are going to remove any visible sign that there are cables running there. A blanking plate would do, but probably not for the stove. Unmarked buried cables are very dangerous.

If a SS blanking plate is OK, crimping or Chocblocks would be OK, but, if it is a ring, the continuity of each of the 3 conductors should be confirmed to ensure that the integrity of the ring is maintained.

Also consider that the current carrying capacity of the circuit will be reduced, possibly significantly subject to the heating that the cable will be subjected to.

But, running on hills and uneven ground is sooo much more fun. Easier to transfer from off-road to roads than vica versa!

Defo worth persevering with the forefoot technique. But, 5 miles is too far to begin with, however, the running / walking is good. Ideally you want to remain in your comfort zone until you can comfortably run 3 – 5 miles.

As others have said, stretching cold muscles is BAD. Warm up is not stretching. I’m lazy and warm up for running by…. running. Slowly and gently. Be careful not to speed up too quickly.

One exercises that will help you calves are heel lifts. Stand on a stair on your forefoot and hold onto a banister / rail to aid balance [only!]. Working one leg at a time, stand up on the ball of your foot and lower your foot so that the heel falls below step level. The benefit comes from the lowering part of the exercise. This should be slow and controlled. Work on about 30 seconds per leg then repeat.

Not a cheap solution, but they’re fantastic. 100% recommendation.

Life Proof case. IP68 rated.

The only problem I can see with the lifeproof case is the lack of robustness that the OB Defender affords. I work in construction too, and the added shock protection and raised case has saved my phone from damage on a number of occasions.

If only the OB D was waterproof, it would be perfect. Apart from bulky.

This will be my third winter visit to the Killing Fields of Perton. I didn’t do last year’s, but the thing is like some crazy narcotic. The ice in ’10 was interesting, but more cases of hypothermia in ’09. 600 from memory, oh and a suspected broken neck.

Yes. Quite a lot of it. Started it like many, having read Born to Run and was inspired by it. Also, I would get to 7 or 8 miles and get very painful knees.

My running gait has changed completely as a result of BFing and I can now run comfortably for 20 – 30 miles, on or off road, but much prefer off road stuff. The main difference is that running BF is a very liberating and joyous experience, and without wanting to sound like some long haired hippy, a very holistic experience.

There are many people jumping on the BFing bandwagon, specifically (if it’s not an oxymoron) the shoe manufacturing companies. New Balance, Innov8, VFF and Nike to name but a few. All of these talk of ‘transitioning’ to BF or minimalist running. They are all trying to sell shoes that supposedly aid the change to forefoot style running via incrementally reducing the drop from heel to forefoot.

Their solutions are slow, expensive and NOT barefoot.

The best advice I could give is to start running absolutely barefoot on a hard surface. City roads and pavements are by far the best surface to learn technique. Urban pavement is generally smooth tarmac rather than tar and chip (very uncomfortable) like many rural roads. Dirt tracks and grass are great to run on but do not promote good BF technique. Also, I do not run BF on the grass in urban parks because of the risk of hidden sharp items that you would see on a road or path.

But a STRONG word of advice. You should be very patient learning to BF. Shod running does not promote strength in the foot. The bones, tendons and ligaments in your foot will be atrophied because they will have had very little exercise to date. The good news is, that the foot evolved to move unshod, and with some care and exercise it will strengthen remarkably quickly.

A good approach to starting BF running can be likened to beginning to run completely. Start by taking off shoes and socks and jogging a couple of hundred meters or so. No more. Do this for a couple of days then slowly and gently start to build up distance. Don’t think about speed, just form (below). Why? As I mentioned above you are beginning to condition your feet, Achilles tendon and legs (especially your calf muscles). Your Achillies and calf muscles will become very stiff and sore initially. Don’t over do it at this stage. Remember, it’s your body sending you a message. BF running is all about feedback, so just start getting used to what your body is telling. After some time (depends on you), you will feel relaxed and just end up running BF over considerable distance with very little effort and a huge deal of satisfaction.

There are loads of web resources about technique, so I will just tell you what I find useful as pointers.
1. Relax when you run.
2. Run with slightly bent knees. They are part of your shock absorbing system.
3. Don’t reach out with your front (leading) in each stride. When it lands, it should hot have any forward motion. It is effectively just place on the ground momentarily to support your weight as you move over it. You’ll know if you’ve got it wrong because you will get hot spots or blisters.
4. I find a ‘good rule of thumb‘ is if you can see your feet when you are running you’re stride is too long. Each step should have the same feel as a gentle hop on the spot.
5. BF running is not running on the balls of your feet, it’s forefoot running. I find that my heels do touch the ground, but towards the end of my stride, just as the take off phase begins. If you have any impact on your heels (which you’ll know because it hurts) you need to shorten your stride.
6. You will find that naturally, you pick your back foot up higher behind you as you are in ‘flight’.

The other thing to remember as you get used to BFing, is that the nerves in your feet will begin to be stimulated. There are about as many nerves in the feet as hands and very quickly you will begin to feel textures and detail of the surfaces you run over. In a very short time, you will notice that your stride, gait and cadence will change as you move from on surface to the next. However, it is very easy initially to interpret these sensations as pain. This is because your brain does not understand how to interpret these new inputs. Just bear in mind that the foot and it’s skin evolved to stand on all sorts of surfaces. It’s much tougher than you’d imagine. The other thing that you will find is that the skin on the soles of your feet does not get hard. If anything it gets softer but slightly thicker. It’s weird but that’s how it is.

People often ask what happens when you step on something sharp or ‘unpleasant’? Quite simply, you become far more aware of the surface(s) you are running over and use your eyes for very accurate foot placement. It’s the same as picking a line down a rough piece of track on a bike. You just don’t really think about it.

If you choose to learn to BF run in shoes, you will not get the benefit of all the feedback you get from perfect interface with the ground, and not feel the full effect of changing your running style.

I’m not a BF evangelist and do use natural style shoes in addition to BFing. I tend to run in shoes during the winter, because, a) it’s cold; b) barefeet don’t grip well in wet mud.

Enjoy, but take it easy to begin with.

OP, it really depends what you want to do with your electrical installation. If you / builder / sparks are planning to add new circuits, or do any work other than replacing like with like, then some work will be required. Any new circuit in a domestic property must be protected by a 30mA RCD. RCD protection is included in modern Consumer Unit, and all ancillaries (meter tails, earthing and bonding etc) will be updated at the same time.
Updating the CU for all circuits makes sense rather than adding small boards for new circuits.

The plug in MCBs illustrated are a good replacement for wire fuses, but do not offer the same degree of protection as MCBs used in conjunction with RCDs RCBOs etc.

I’ve invested in some nice down tent mules and and an Alpkit down gilet to aid in this winter’s central heating.

I fully uphold the dress for the season adage. Even though I now live in a modern(ish) house that’s relatively easy to heat I grew up in a very drafty old house where the radiators worked in a couple of rooms, but not others. Waking up with ice on the inside of the windows was normal, and occasionally, ice forming in the glass of water next to my bed.

Modern folk – Pansies.

No, it’s purely to act as host for software / files for personal use. Not vast amounts of data at all.

Website hosted by fasthosts, and will probalbly keep it there.

I don’t think so, as the structure of the tyre would stop it from expanding too much. Obviously at infinate speed the centrifugal force would out-do even those forces and it’d expand more, but at that point it’d loose contact with the wheel and just roll off down the runway conveyor?

FTFY 😉

I needed to replace the Porta Filta gasket on my Miss Silvia (Ranchillo) for exactly the same reason. That sorted the problem out instantly. It was a real bugger to get out though.

if you travel 100 miles north, 100 miles east, 100 miles south and 100 miles west, you don’t end up where you started.

Provided you start in the right place you do.

I know you’re right, but racking the ole grey matter as to where you have to be for it to work. Certainly not in this latitude.

The stock market/price of something goes down by 5%
The next day, the price rises by 5%

And the number of people who say, “phew, back to where we started!’.

Yes, it’s just like getting used to the fact that if you travel 100 miles north, 100 miles east, 100 miles south and 100 miles west, you don’t end up where you started. 🙂

If you overtake the last person in a race, then you are in what position?

Same as you were before, because you weren’t in the race.

Just got some Falkens for my Bro. Good price from a big independent, Hawleys in Sheffield.

jonba,

the wheels and conveyor are an irrelevance in both versions of the question. Thrust, an external force to the wheels and conveyor still acts upon the aircraft.
Assuming 0mph windspeed, the groundspeed of the plane (the speed of the conveyor) would be 2 x airspeed.

I love that this chestnut is back. It always makes me chuckle thinking about the lamentable lack of understanding people have about why an aircraft works. Some people just cannot make the leap of understanding between ground speed and airspeed. As cyclists, they should have an clear understanding. Anyone heard of a headwind…?

Example.
You are standing next to your steed of choice on a beautiful sunny but chilly autumnal morning. Nice day for a ride you think. That sun will be nice and warm, as you drink the last dregs from your pre ride coffee.
Then you mount up and start riding. You are riding on a perfectly normal flat road and you look at your speedometer. You are travelling at a very acceptable 20mph. But, bloomin’eck it’s cold! Where has cold headwind come from? It must be blowing at 20mph.
Result: Windspeed 0mph; Groundspeed 20mph; Airspeed 20mph.

Next Example
This time there is a windspeed of 20mph blowing in the direction that you will be riding in. You stand next to your bike and think bhah, that’s a cold wind. You set off in the direction of the wind. You again look at the speedo and notice that once again you are doing 20mph, yet the air around you is still, and you feel the warming rays of the morning sun.
Result Windspeed 20mph; Groundspeed 20mph; Airspeed 0mph

Final Example
The wind this time is blowing at 20mph from where you want to go to. You set off and because you are super human STW hero, you glance down at your speedo, and once again you are travelling at 20mph. But stone the crows, it’s jolly windy you think.
Result: Windspeed 20mph; Groundspeed 20mph; Airspeed 40mph

Conclusion: you under stand that airspeed is different from groundspeed.

So, how does this relate to said conveyor and said aeroplane. A normal fixed wing plane requires lift in order to fly. This is generated from air flowing over the aerofoil (wing). Using the above example a plane requires airspeed (headwind) in order to take off. Got it, air flowing over the wing.

Next question. How does a plane propel itself?
1. By having engines driving the wheels on the runway.
2. Having engine(s) moving air from the front of the aircraft to the rear.

Anyone not agree that the answer is 2? Right, lets call this moving air ‘thrust’. Thrust generated by the engine is entirely independent from the ground (be it tarmac, water, snow or in this case treadmill).
The plane moves through the air, be it on land or in the air by modulating the thrust provided by the engine. In order to leave the ground, the airspeed generated by the INDEPENDENT thrust must be sufficient to overcome gravity. Lift off occurs when the required airspeed is achieved. This has nothing whatsoever to do with ground (conveyor) speed.

Final example. This time the aircraft is a glider. Thrust (engine) this time is provided by another external force. A large tensioned elastic band. The glider is standing on a conveyor travelling at nmph, but anchored from behind so that it cannot move forward under the force of the thrust. The wheels on the glider are revolving at nmph. The anchor is released and the glider moves forward across the conveyor as a result of the thrust provided by the elastic band. The airspeed of the glider increases to the point where enough lift is generated for the glider to leave the ground. At this point the wheels of the glider are travelling at n plus take-off speed mph. n can be any speed.

Anyone now not understand, or if you can provide a reasoned argument to the contrary, please enlighten me.

Always wanted to leave a ‘bait’ bike with no brakes at the top of one of Sheffield’s hills….

Used to go out with at girl who could ‘hold’ a 1.5l coke bottle. Empy mind.

Should also be a MIN limit to reduce the speed differential too

1. Min limit would be downright dangerous. What about adverse weather conditions. I’ve been on M’ways where the traffic has been travelling at at 10mph because of tempestuous rain. Not much traffic but virtually no visibility. Having an arbitory cut off point for good and bad conditions would be dependant on vehicle type, conditions, driving skill (perceived or otherwise…!) and personal appraisal of the conditions. This could potentially lead to greater disparity of speeds.

2. My opinion is that the 70mph limit that we have appears to work. The Police have a greater scope for discretion with our current limit. I know a M’way traffic officer from the Mersyside force. He intemated that in normal conditions they wouldn’t bother with anyone travelling at 80mph. Those travelling at 85mph + were much more likely to attract attention. However, should the road conditions be such that 80 is dangerous, they will happily feel the appropriate collar. Quite right too if you ask me. Increasing the limit would remove that option and thus impeed the eductation of drivers engaging in unsafe driving.

I got a set of winter tyres from them last year. No problem at all. Just got tyres though.
The winter tyres are definitely worth it. You’ll be amazed.

Not via ferrata, but similar..

Some of the best Real Ale pubs in the country. A visit to Kelham Island perhaps:
Kelham Island Tavern, Fat Cat, Riverside, Gardners Rest to name but a few. Also, The Milestone worth a visit. Good food if not a little pricey.

Shorts here. Unless a job requires greater protection. Self employed sparks.

Some very contradictory advice above. Some is right, some wrong, some confused. Ask your mate who is a sparky if it isn’t a straight swap plug’n’play. Don’t go changing fuse / MCB ratings or cable sizes if you don’t know exactly what you are doing.

As has been mentioned, the most cost effective solution is to fit LED / CFLs.
Changing the dimmers will be a requirement for this. I would suggest getting a quote from an electrician(s) to simply change the switches.
Speak to LL and negotiate between LL 100% and you 100% payment for the work. Whatever happens, you will save massively on lighting bills.

You could suggest keeping the dimmer switches and replacing at the end of your tennancy if required.

I’d be more than happy to let you have a price if you are around the Sheffield area.

It might sound stupid, but make sure the oven is correctly isolated from the electrical supply before sticking your pinkies in there!

It sounds very much like the element is shorting out as it heats up, causing the short circuit that is tripping the MCB. It will reset when the oven is isolated because it cannot close the circuit. Similarly, when the oven is cold, it does not close the circuit because the metals have contracted and are not touching / arcing.

Remedy – replace the element(s) that are damage.

Should be fine. I assume that you will be using the correct arbour. The area of the cut should be protected by masking tape to reduce any splintering of the surface of the resin. Drill a pilot hole for the arbour the cut the hole at high speed.