How did the jetboil do in the latest mag?
I take it that it came out tops?
My primus is great, justa bit big for the camelbak ;)

I'm paying for 10mbs from Virgin media, I'd say thats spot on ;)

OK, just got home, can't be arsed with pics tonight TBH, maybe tomorrow.
Does anyone have a link to the easton bung, or any other suitable bung, google is pants for looking for stuff like that :(
Cheers.

I'll try & do a pic when I get home later.
Whats the shortest usable steerer length anyway? Ebay's not a bad idea.
Nick, not sure, but when I bought them they had a SFN fitted so I cut down the steerer.

The steerer & crown are one unit, last time I asked it was about £500 plus about £100 to fit & service :(

So how about gluing a steel tube to the inside of the steerer?
At least it would bend after the CF had failed :idea:
**** it, £350 on a new set of forks sounds like a good idea :)

I built a bike for my daughter (cough) using an Azonic jump frame, the problem is the seat angle is very steep, so it doesn't alter the TT length as much as you want as they grow.
HTH.

There is no rule I know of that says you have to landfill them.
I'm pretty sure they are recyclable, at least my 'dustman' have always taken them along with the rest of the cans & stuff*.

*They may not be looking for non-recyclable material, but then they still don't like certain plastics which they chuck back in my box when they sort it.

Crazy-legs, at the top, but to make good the steerer would then be about 170-175mm long, not much use to most folks.
Cheers.

CHB, there is no 'bottom' of the steerer tube to worry about, it's solid.
The carbon rods sound interesting, not thought of those before, but the theory seems good.
Re the 'dentist', compared to the carbon seatpost that failed on me the other week sending the big ring into my leg, I'm not sure what I would choose ;)
I still think an epoxy filled steerer tube would be stronger than standard alloy.

I posted this a while ago.
I haven't been dissapointed in my choice, not only does it boil quicker than the adverage kettle, it makes a good job at being a proper cooker as well :)

Bump for the daytime brigade.

Many thanks for the replies guys, Trolling Zoo Fighter, was yours a Thule?

Cheers.

I really wouldn't bother, most people know there next to useless on a decent car, OK for a quick touch up on a banger, but thats about it.
Have an ask about in local car dealers & see if any of them actually bother to use them, I bet its only for the odd bumper scuff if they do, anything else is to noticeable on a sales car, & most will pay to have the work done properly by a decent paintshop.
HTH.

I like the description of the Seven in mtbrDot's link

Full specification
Frame: Seven Sola Gold custom, Cirrus™ Ultra-Butted™ and Argen™ butted titanium
Fork: RockShox SID World Cup w/ carbon crown and XLoc compression damper, 90/100psi positive/negative

Critical measurements
Rider's height: 1.66m (5' 6") ; Weight: 52.6kg (116lb)
Seat tube length, c-c: 373mm
Seat tube length, c-t: 410mm
Saddle height, from BB (c-t): 690mm
Tip of saddle nose to C of bars (next to stem): 511mm
Handlebar drop: 15mm
Head tube length: 90mm
Top tube length: 558mm

Front brake: Avid XX w/ 160mm rotor
Rear brake: Avid XX w/ 140mm rotor
Brake levers: Avid XX
Front derailleur: SRAM XX
Rear derailleur: SRAM XX
Shift levers: SRAM XX
Cassette: SRAM XX, 11-36T
Chain: SRAM PC-1090R
Crankset: SRAM XX, 175mm, 28/42T
Bottom bracket: SRAM XX BlackBox
Rims: Stan's NoTubes ZTR Race
Front hub: American Classic Disc 130
Rear hub: American Classic Disc 225
Spokes: DT Revolution 1.8/1.5mm, 32h, red alloy nipples
Front tyre: Kenda Small Block Eight DTC, 26×1.95", converted to tubeless
Rear tyre: Kenda Small Block Eight DTC, 26×1.95", converted to tubeless

Bars: Truvativ Noir World Cup, 580mm
Stem: Truvativ Stylo World Cup, 100mm x 5º
Headset: Crank Brothers Cobalt SL
Tape/grip: ESI Racer's Edge, shortened

Pedals: Crank Brothers Egg Beater 4Ti
Seat post: Syntace P6 Carbon
Saddle: fi'zi:k Aliante w/ braided carbon rails
Bottle cages: King Cage Titanium

Total bike weight: 8.74kg (19.27lb)

Now that's how much a very light hardtail weighs in the real world, I bet all the people claiming 17-19lbs on here don't have kit half that weight.

:)

Well I can't say I have read the whole thread, but after tonights episode where my carbon post snapped just above the frame I must say my next one will be ally or Ti.
I'll get around to posting the pics sometime, but in the meantime keep an eye out for a 'short' carbon post on the classifieds soon ;)

Why do you think all chavs congregate in McD's car park, they know the law can't do them for doing donuts, so lets hope the McD's donuts do for them in the long run ;)

Why would anyone notify the dvla of a engine change?
And even if you did, unless you tell people how will they find out?

In all the years I have sold cars I can count on one hand the amount of times people have checked engine numbers, chassis numbers yes, but matching chassis & engine numbers only mater on very important classics.
HTH.

Good luck fella, my wife turns 40 in a few days, but then thing's haven't been the same since the kids came along, I hope you get it sorted as best you can.
Good luck.

Fair enough, but on a polo I would think it was the plastic veined waterpump to be the possible cause.
I certainly wouldn't replace an alt belt just because the alt failed, but I would obviously inspect it closely before making the call.
My gut instinct would be that it was a cheap recon alt that is to blame, I've had relatively expensive Bosch units fail within a few months, but thats rare, there was/is a place on the A406 that reconditioned starters, alternators etc, we used to laugh & take bets about how long they would last (after giving the customer the choice based on cost & recommending the expensive option).

It could be one of the rollers or something else like the waterpump/ac compressor has seized & caused the belt to snap, this could be because the alternator bearings going have put unnecessary strain on other components leading to the failure.
It's a fine line on whether or not to change the whole lot at the same time, but most customers will moan or say someone else has quoted less, so you don't advise or insist they change the lot.

I hope you get it resolved soon.

This is going to get painful, what car do you have?
Most cam belts have a cover to stop this kind of thing happening, I'm interested in the set up of yours.
Good luck.

Any thoughts on this?

Also, at present my grassed area is about 3" above the driveway & held back by a concrete pavement edging about 2" thick, do you think if i removed it the ground would eventually meet the drive, or is this a recipe for disaster?

Thanks.

Thanks for the suggestions so far, especially Tj's, that was most helpful (& predictable).
The grass one is a goody, but I thought you were supposed to dig down, put in loads of hardcore first, then put in the mesh & backfill it & finally seed it, that may not be the cheapest option?

Cheers.

I picked up one of these in TK max today for £30, so it may be worth a look if you can.

It seemed a bargain so I bought it to walk the dogs in. I also bought one of these

for summer biking duties on friday after getting drenched on thursday nights bike ride.

Both are light & pack very small, although the montane is obviously lighter & a bit smaller.
Cheers.

Grand union canal?

Try having them re cut by a LBS first, you need to find one with a cutter rather than a chaser though.

It seems the failure rate, even from new is high, last nights confidence is dwindling :(

Mine seems to have survived tonights deluge, so thanks to Trout I have some confidence in it now, maybe one day I'll leave the back up frogs at home.
Now can anyone do an extension for the battery lead?
I need to put this thing on my bonce.

Cheers.

bleed it right then ….. no excuse for a bad lever feel after a bleed unless brake needs seals

Unless you have Formula brakes… I paid to have them bleed by the importers & it still took bleeding thumbs to put right, all brakes are not created equal, but then Hope brakes are beautifully simple.

LOL @ sfb, that's never going to happen, in fact it gets worse as YOU get older :)

Ahem, I think you'll find that no one owes anything to Trout or Smudge other than thanks or beer money, yes they are both obviously really nice chaps, & I personally owe Trout a beer or two for sorting out my light, but really I had never heard of either before this thread. So to insinuate that I am somehow doing them out of a living & contributing to the downfall of the British empire by buying a light from china I find more than a little demeaning.

However I do see your point, I just think you need to get over yourself & express your point in a more eloquent manor. I don't ever expect niche light makers & battery experts to make a living by charging more than the competition, but if they do then I would be the first to congratulate them.
Have a nice evening.

Cute.

Slate it all you want folks, I don't own it anymore ;)
I bought it as I thought it was cool looking, never bothered to ride it offroad, but I did try riding around town & down some steps, that was interesting :?

It sounds as if they all need the Trout super service before you try them, can't go wrong for a tenner!
If mine prove reliable then it's money very well spent :)

Retro porn ;)

Muddy fox porn ;)

No messing your pants now.

I seriously thought about this one

Ian, mine is US, a converter costs a quid you cheapskate ;)
Why did you buy some anyway? I don't think they're as bright as your HID.

Hora bashing is the STW sport, you would of thought he would of changed his name by now {like that would work sealion} but the guy just likes to be known, I bet he's tossing off to the STW video thread as we speak type ;)