More well meaning BS?
You don’t state the brand so at least you’re not biting the hand that feeds you. Different brands have different pricing structures. Different retailers get different prices.

Ha another ‘I know it all keyboard warrior’, you don’t know me yet assume it’s BS!! I just answered the original question, straight to the point, no B.S!! i.e. What is the actual ‘Trade’ price that the distributors have to pay to my bike manufacturer v the RRP.

Yes there are then different retail ‘trade’ prices based on volume, a lot of us shop at Costco, Macro etc, we understand the concept :wink:

I don’t have to state the manufacturer, and TBH it doesn’t make any difference if I did as all Manu’s are going to be a similar figure, if not less, as my bikes come from a European manufacturer that doesn’t turn out a fraction of the bikes that Giant, Specialized et al do. I just know for a fact that they supply both the UK and the Nth American distributors at that ‘trade’ price ratio as I’ve had my bikes from both of them since 2008.

I currently get them through the Nth American distributor, so I get it at 45% of the $ RRP and seeing as tax over there is only 12%, it actually ends up cheaper than UK ‘trade’ price :lol:

Built a pair of wheels for my mate whilst we were in Whistler in August using them.

Built up really nice and he then proceeded to flog them to death in the bike park on his V10 and came back with the rear rim folded on one side in one place, BUT it hadn’t punctured and the tyre stayed on too, which was pretty impressive.

Straightened it out for him on the jig and it’s still going strong.

Build up to ~1900g, bit lighter than Deemax Ultimates but obviously not as strong and are ideal if you want something stronger than Stans Flow Rims.

I get bikes at trade + VAT through a sponsorship deal direct from the distributor and trade is ~ 45% of the RRP.

Not sure how much stiffness the carbon brace actually provides since it only attaches down near the hub? There’s a lot of material to flex Btw there and the brace 400mm higher up!!

Granted it may provide a bit but not enough to really counteract the forces produced when a fork is under load.

Also avoid co-codamol pain killers, they make you constipated, which is actually worse than the pain of the injury :lol:

My physio basically involved using a thera band, (big elastic band), and continualy doing reps with it, you stretch the band as the wrist strengthens to offer more resistance. Also rotating a hammer side to side, start with a claw and work your way to a lump etc…etc. I also bought one of those small grip strengtheners used by rock climbers, pretty cheap and helps.

As far as speeding it up, it all depends on how good a healer you are! My mate swears by a supplement called Cissus Quandralaris to speed up the healing process.

Another mate has good private health care and goes and sits in an oxygen tent!!!!!

I bought a good wrist guard that got me riding my bike before the doctor recommended :lol: Check out the ‘Bioskin Wrist Brace’, really thin so it will fit beneath existing gloves, all others I tried were really bulky and needed bigger gloves.

The advert says that you get 1 x Trailstar (for Fr) and 1 x pacestar (for back) compound, is this correct all those who have purchased?

Nike has very dubious ethics so it’s no surprise to me that they continued to support him.

Yhey kind of like the ‘bad boy image’ a bit and if it sells they don’t give a ****.

I’ve ordered a few things off their site in the past, most recently a carbon super 4 frame in the sale. Frame arrived 4 days after order and was only 11 euros postage.

Good comms throughout informing of status of order and tracking provided too.

Check out http://www.ticket2ridebc.com for accomodation options.

We’ve always flown from Glasgow for Crankworx for 2 weeks Hol which flies on a Wed, that way you get the full 10 days in.

I’ve been boycotting them for years along with other corporates whose ethics are disgraceful to say the least.

Grooved out pencil rubber and gaffer tape has worked for me in the past!

Ha Mike beat me to it ^

I’ve used the Fratelli tape and the spank valves on my rims and they work great.

(OT – Mike if you’re still monitoring – when are those Oozy straight pull wheelsets going to be available, saw them at Whistler during Crankworx and they are sexy!!)

I think it was taken by Ian Linton at an Inners DH race earlier this year and is genuine I believe. Currently trying to find the original report it was in.

You have to take the cassette off to remove the drive side adaptor, but just wiggle and pull off with molegrips :wink:

I’ve re-used the 10sp links a few times, I bought some pliers for opening the links, about £8 from CRC.

Mine is a Std AM1 with the following bits changed / added;-

Changed 32 float forks for 32 Talas so I can lower front on climbs
Changed riser bars for flat ones, (can’t remember make as spares from my box and guessing ~ 250g ish)
Added MRP x2 guide
Changed wheels for Flows on Pro II’s with tubeless hans dampfs
Changed Formula brakes for hayes strokers
Stuffed pipe lagging and bubble wrap down tubes to stop cable rattle :lol:

I’m 5’7″ and had a go on the AM 29er version and it just felt wrong compared to my 26″ version.

I’ve had one since March and it’s a beaut of a bike.

Did all of the UK Gravity Enduro races on it, plus I’ve took it to Whistler and did Top of the World trail, Gargamel, Khyber pass et al, plus a few UK trail centres and it’s come out shining in all rides.

I’d dispute the need for 36’s on it, ok I swapped my Std 32 Floats for 32 Talas to get the reduced travel for climbing, but the 32’s are man enough for the job.

Historic Commencal cracking issues are long gone, I have been told by both the UK and Nth America Distributors that they have not had 1 single cracked frame since launch of the new design, (V3, AM, SX and SL).

The rear end is so plush, I only use pro-pedal for fire road climbs, anything technical turn it off and it pedals through anything.

Mine tips the scales at just under 31 lb, but it rides lighter than that and felt like I was on an XC bike compared to my old Meta 6.

A mate changed his 55 for an AM in the summer and he’s raving about the AM too and said it’s way better thna the 55.

Must admit I’m not too keen on the 2013 colours, so I’d Def recommend the 2012 blue one at the reduced price, it’s a bargain at that price and you wouldn’t regret it.

The vertstar, which are aimed at DH racing, shred in no time at all, not adviasble for day to day riding.

I have Trailstar tyres on my AM, actually Hans Dampf’s, and the wear rate is acceptable wrt the better grip you get than the Pacestar.

Most people on AM rigs go for Trailstar on the front and Pacestar on the rear.

Yep I split £160 ish into 3 orders too and saved £30 :)

Don’t bother hiring bikes out there it was only ~£20 each way to take your own, we took our DH and 6″ AM bikes for a total of £78 which won’t pay for 2 days hire of a DH bike!!

Also check out http://www.ticket2ridebc.com

Also if you’re not particularly tied to dates, Can Affair/Air Transat, (which are the same company), do cheap fixed date deals, I got a return for £289 last year with the T2R discount code. As mentioned above the planes entertainment is random, we had seat back screens with multiple choice going and bugger all coming back this year, so be prepared just in case.

Cheapest way to get a bike park pass for just 1 week is firstly buy a Pink Bike Road Trip card, (need to do this a couple of months before you go), which will give you an extra day in the park for ‘free’ when you buy a Triple Play card. (It’s not actually free as you paid for the PB card, but’s it will end up 50% cheaper for the day). You use the 4 days on your card and then all further days are automatically deducted from your CC from the 5th day onwards at the cheapest rate and certainly cheaper than buying day passes.

Your triple play and PB cards will also then give you various discounts around the village to get 10% – 20% off food and goods.

TBH you need to get out of the PB for a couple of days as there is plenty of better ‘natural’ riding in Pemberton and Squamish, depends if your budget can stretch to some shuttle days, but well worth it.

I rode one in Whistler and whilst it’s a fantastic trail centre bike, it’s a bit of a misnomer labelling it ‘SL’ as at 28lb without pedals it ain’t ‘super light’.

I currently have a Commencal Super 4 which is great for XC duties and was thinking of getting the SL to replace it, but it’s a different beast altogether and too heavy for just XC.

This guy rode the same bike as me and I agree 100% with his comments;
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Commencal-Meta-SL-and-Supreme-FR-2013.html

..and TBH the Spec for full price is pretty average, I would be P’d off if that’s all I got for £3600, just about right for the current discounted price though.

We had a look at it in Whistler during Crankworx, they had a bike on a desk in the SRAM ‘shop’.

The R wheel was fixed in a stand so we couldn’t pedal it and the chain was on the largest sprocket, (can’t remember what bike it was), and whilst we initially thought ‘yeh that’s good’, we then back pedaled it and the chain came off the rear sprocket a couple of gears and locked up, so there are Def chainline problems with the system.

Check out the CRC bag, they’ve ‘pinched’ some of the EVOC ideas in their new design and for £50 it’s a bargain;-

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=68409

Someone on holiday had one and I was V impressed by it.

Cost me £25 last week to have a BB re-threaded (which TBH I thought was a bit OTT for 15 mins work), but for the other £75 you could buy the tools required to fit the BB & headset yourself and still have change.

BTW – Wrapping a bar, do you really need to pay someone to do that for you???

Got one 4 weeks ago on my R thigh from a heavy fall on rocks and it’s gone down 50% already. I’d leave and let it degrade naturally.

On my DH bike I run;-

18-22 in the wet/mud – using spikes / Der Barons
20-25 inter conditions – using Der Baron / Comp 16’s
25-32 in the dry – Using Minnions

I sent mine back on 20th June and received a replacement last week.

For people missing their slot – wait them until end of their cat where there’s a gap of a few mins – then send them down with a 10s penalty or whatever.

That’s what Steve was doing the last couple of rounds as there was a 3 min gap Btw Cats to enable this, however he didn’t actually add any penalty time on, since he’s such a nice guy :lol:

Also I also agree and disagree with seeding, yes it’s sorts out the fast DH riders into order, problem is it doesn’t sort them into the correct order on the pedally bits! I caught the rider in front on the various pedally bits at Dyfi and then was held up on the subsequent DH runs in to the finish, since TBH, it was just too fast/dangerous to try and overtake.

Not done this particular uplift yet, but they use the trailers where your bike is held individually in a frame and having used these type on many occasions elsewhere they are probably the best at NOT damaging your pride and joy, so I wouldn’t bother taping up your bike;-

http://www.anturstiniog.com/photo-gallery/?ref=2#

Steve did throw some Fetish T Shirts to the crowd on Sun stating “Anyone want some rags?”

Having raced the last 2 years I’m really sorry to see Steve go, the series will lose that friendly, chilled out touch and will probably scare some of the new riders away.

Yeh, I’ve been looking at those Novatec plus A2Z hubs on ebay, bit of a bargain for ~ £120 pair and pretty light too.

If you learn to use your gears then you can get away with a medium. A medium cage just won’t take the chain slack up when you’re in the 28 front and last few rings on the cassette.

You just need to make sure you change to the 40 up front once you get past the middle of the cassette.

I have done this on mine and it works fine.

I have a problem when I’m sat in my van on a race weekend with no internet access.

How can I view my gpx files, is there some non internet software I can download to view the files?

You need a pair of these to un-do them;-

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/SearchResults.aspx?Search=powerlink+pliers

I have re-used a 10 speed link and no problem so far!

They are a bitch to put on too, you either need another pair of pliers like these yellow ones;-
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=56350

….or you have to fit the link so it’s just ‘biting’, run the link round the cassette so it’s on the ‘pulling’ side and stand on the pedals, the force will lock it.

On a hard packed surface – Holy roller without question.

Been in Canada the past month where it was advertised on the TV a lot and TBH it looks shite :roll:

…… but if you think ET could actually fly on that BMX then you’ll love it :lol:

I like the retro look, I have the following original jerseys;-

Systeme U
Renault Gittane
Peugeot michelin
Chateau D’Ax Gatorade
Ti Creda Raleigh

Also invested for the future and have the following that will be classics one day;-

Sky rainforest rescue
Also just ordered a Sky TdF Spec Ed, that isn’t available in UK currently but being sold in Germany.

In one word, no!

“ruggedized” FFS!!