You cannot mix and match shifters and mechs, but everything else works fine including using road cassettes with mtb mechs etc so long as they are all 10sp.

I hope they find that big Viking boat from S1 😆

… oh and yes they are great tyres, been running them on my DH bike since they came out and love them.

Nope you’re not mad, the Der kaisser is similar to HR/HR2 which is itself a copy!

It all started in the late 90’s with Michelin producing the Comp 16 and every manufacturer has ‘invented’ a copy since.

The ‘factory’ version is mint 😉

Next Thurs at NEC cycle show 😉
Trade has seen them but public launch next week.

He did say ‘paid’ in inverted commas!

Similar to me, my annual elec bill is ~£350, but I get £1200+ back a year in FIT, so they ‘pay’ me £850+ a year to use their Elec 😉

Swap hoses, it’s a 5 min job if that, (time to undo two nuts & tighten two nuts!).
Ideally having someone with you to hold 2nd hose is better so they can hold one hose vertical whilst you’re working on the other.
Secret is to pump pistons out prior to detaching hoses 😉

As Kaiser said above, it’s a doddle and I’ve used that method on every shock I’ve ever had.

If you haven’t got a vice or G-clamp, use a threaded rod and 2 nuts/washers or a long nut and bolt. or as a last resort, you can use a small hammer to tap it in.

http://www.stigmaracing.com/en/custom

I haven’t found anywhere cheaper for full sublimated shirts and really good quality.
Email them with your requirements and graphic files and they will make up some pdf templates for you to review and choose.

Interesting to hear people say they have different width bars on Diff bikes, I have 740mm bars on every bike I have XC – DH.

I was once told by someone that the correct width of bar is determined by doing a press up! Get in a normal press up position and then get someone to measure the distance Btw your little fingers = ideal bar width.

Seems to work fine for me 😉

I have a problem of them not sending an order to me placed last Wednesday and them ignoring my queries!!

Since Wiggle took over I have noticed a slow decline in their service!

https://www.trailforks.com/trails/map/?lat=50.123202&lon=-122.951774&z=12&m=trailforks

I love how the word ‘cheat’ keeps getting used for people who don’t ride the intended ‘sheep line’ 😉

The rules state that a rider must ride between the marker tape. I have done races in the past where the tape was on the outside of a corner, so therefore everything on the inside is fair game no matter where the ‘sheep trail’ is.

If you tape the inside of corners fully, then you should be able to get away with less tape.

I once did a race where I sussed out on a big hair pin that there was a blind route through the inside bushes to cut 10+s off 😉
There was a famous incident in DH years ago at Cheddar where Titley sussed out that a massive horse shoe bend was taped on the outside only so he cut it and saved 20+ secs and was duly DQ’d. But Peaty and warner argued his case and he got reinstated.

Apparently, can be boiled twice and the water discarded, then cooked properly and is edible and good.
… I’ll let someone else try that one!!

Enter Sandman, live version.

I know the ‘safety’ camera people have a different agenda, but I once got stopped and given a talking to by motorway cops and they told me to set cruise to 80mph and they won’t bother with you.

If you want to play the % game, then there’s a way to get off this and I know it’s correct as I have done it 😉

In Scotland they have a precedent that you only need to admit guilt under caution. When you get the NIP, fill in the details but DO NOT SIGN IT. This is where Scotland differs from England as not signing is a prosecutable offence in England, whereas in Scotland, signing it is an admission of guilt and you don’t have to do that if you are not under caution.

They will send another NIP back to you saying that you haven’t signed it, do the same again and every time they send it back to you. What they need to do is send the NIP to your local police station and ask for them to call on you and caution you and you then have to sign the NIP in front of them.

From the 1st receipt of NIP they have 6 months to call on you before it times out, most of the time the local bobbies are too busy to do this so ignore it 😉

I’ve got a Biknd Jetpack and there’s plenty of room for a 27.5″

Talking of silly expensive bike bags, anyone see this ‘launch’ the other day, (I had to check it wasn’t April 1st!!)? https://douchebags.com/stories/best-bike-bag

Yep, Steve D at i-cycles is yer man 🙂

Yeh mine fell out exactly the same last year and noticed that 3 oher riders were having same problem and thankfully told them before they lost them.

I bought some long ‘button head’ set screws and nylock nuts off ebay for a few £ and took the two top and bottom set screws out and replaced with single set and bolt.

Can’t remember dia required, (poss M3?), but these are the jobs; http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_nkw=M3+M4+M5+M6+M8+A2+STAINLESS+HEX+SOCKET+FLANGED+BUTTON+HEAD+ALLEN+BOLTS+SCREWS&_id=321232365051&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658

I have an Uswe and they are fantastic packs, the ‘No Dancing Monkey’ system is mint.

You can either have the best – North Shore Billet = £
or cheapest – Superstar = swiss cheese

The helicopter was there scraping up a roadie who mullered himself going down the hill we were going up Btw stages 3 & 4.

A lot of DH Tubeless options atm that allow low pressures to be run. Pro core, Deaneasy, ghetto pro core allow ‘silly’ low pressures without fear of punctures = maximum grip, (I run 16.5 Fr and 19 rear whatever the terrain, Incl FW!).
There’s also Huck Norris and Flat Tyre Defender, but they don’t lock the tyre bead on the rim like the above

If you buy from One Up they have an International/UK Wharehouse site so there’s no customs/duty etc to pay.
CRC do them too if you have a discount code 😉
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/oneup-components-sram-x-cog-expander-sprocket/rp-prod141745

Ha, thanks for your input. I didn’t actually ask for a solution I asked if anyone else had suffered with similar problems 😉

I’ve installed 100’s of all types of ‘tubeless’ tyres since they were invented and also tested prototypes for Maxxis, so I have some experience on the matter and know the difference 😉

Whatever the type of tyre, UST, tubeless compatible or standard, call me pedantic, but I expect the carcass to be actually air tight, the sealant is there to help form a seal btw the bead and rim and hopefully fix punctures.

With my engineering head on, if the sidewalls are leaking, there are voids through it, which are weaknesses in the structure which can lead to premature failure.

I have also used TCS light Vigilante and Trail Boss tyres in the past and they all sealed fine with no sidewall issues.

Apart from one incident, I haven’t had this problem mounting 100’s of tubeless and non tubeless tyres in the past. As mentioned above, there was the old continental problem, but to be fair they were not specific tubeless tyres, just normal ones trying to be mounted tubeless, like I had been able to do with other makes in the past. Since continental brought out the tubeless versions, they are fine.

I’m quite shocked that some people think this is acceptable and a ‘tubeless’ tyre doesn’t actually need to be airtight!!

It states on the sidewall it’s ‘TCS’, (Tubeless compatible system), which it is clearly not if I have to p1ss around for 4+ days to try and get it sealed!

I’ve got vigilante and trail boss tyres that are TCS air tight, inflated first time and stayed inflated, so these are Def faulty.

I have the max size chainring fitted to my bike that the chainstay would allow and there is probably less than 1mm clearance. Had no problems in over 1 year of riding.

Decline was the Nth American equivalent of Dirt magazine, more gravity orientated.

Surprised that’s gone as it was full of Ad’s, I stopped buying it as got fed up of going through 10 pages of Ads Btw actual articles!!

I have a similar claim against me atm from Nov 2015 and have a solicitor defending me on behalf of the insurer.

I have proof that I drove to my office that day, (tracker in car) and have email logs all day proving I was working in that office.
They also asked me if required can people at work sign a statement saying I was there.
Thankfully I also have a gps tracker in the vehicle in question and that proves it was in a secure compound on the day in question.

I have normal stans tape in mine and it’s fine.
From schwalbe recommended pressures, the procore tube only needs to be circa 60psi and I’m running tyres @ 17psi Fr & 19 psi rear.

The only other thing you need is a clear sticker to go over the valve hole to aid sealing, I use a park tool super patch, (or other Manu equivalent).

Bike24 is cheaper, but tbh next day tyres have them too. http://nextdaytyres.co.uk/search.aspx?search=pro+core