Home Forums Bike Forum Shimano brake calliper seals – can they be fixed?

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  • Shimano brake calliper seals – can they be fixed?
  • BigEls
    Free Member

    I have some SLX m675 brakes.
    Just did a bleed and found there is weeping from the rear calliper slightly and it won’t retract.

    Most people treat them as consumable parts but has anyone sourced O ring seals successfully?

    Any help much appreciated.

    JAG
    Full Member

    Where is the fluid weeping from?

    If it’s the piston then it’s not an O-ring but a specialist square section seal. You need to go to Shimano to get the correct part.

    stevextc
    Free Member

    Nope, postage costs more than it’s worth.
    You can buy a brand new Deore M6000 caliper with “free pads” and warranty and free delivery or £20 for brand new M7100 for £20 (plus delivery from bike discount). If you are in a rush I have a MT200 brand new you can have for postage but then you’ll need to sort out the hose differences…

    spacey
    Full Member

    I’ve got the SLX m675 too and think the seals are on the way out (they’ve had plenty of use). My question is would the 675 levers be compatible with a newer generation M6000 caliper? Anyone done this? I just hate chucking working components in land fill if it isn’t necessary!

    stevextc
    Free Member

    All the levers and calipers work together … The only caveat is hose (BH90 vs BH59) = Olive or banjo. I have one caliper that is 1/2 685 and half 785 … the only actual difference is graphics and 685 came with a split pin.
    I’ve currently got a 685 caliper on a M8000 lever … a M785 on a Zee lever… another 685 on a M6000 Lever… and some 7120 calipers on M7000 levers… (but with the bite point screws taken from old M785)

    spacey
    Full Member

    Nice one steve, I thought that would be the case but that’s reassuring.

    rossburton
    Free Member

    The BH90 vs BH59 difference is entirely at the caliper end, right? As in the diameter at the lever is identical.

    Wiksey
    Free Member

    If it’s leaking from where the two halves of the caliper join together then, yes it can be fixed and I can confirm it was very easy to do. Cost about £2 for more o-rings than I needed to fix all my leaky calipers – see below 🙂

    A couple of years back I thought mine were leaking from the pistons hence this thread:
    https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/anyone-tried-fixing-leaky-shimano-brakes/

    But the last post in that one sent me to the right place:
    https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/leaking-shimano-calipers-possible-solution/

    bigyan
    Free Member

    The BH90 vs BH59 difference is entirely at the caliper end, right? As in the diameter at the lever is identical.

    No, 2.1 V 2.3 mm ID.

    stevextc
    Free Member

    The BH90 vs BH59 difference is entirely at the caliper end, right? As in the diameter at the lever is identical.

    Not quite as Bigyan say’s but I’ve stuck in the BH90 barb and Olive in a Zee caliper and its been fine. Ideally though I’d stick to the correct hose if possible but I’d not chuck a hose as ultimately you can get the barb in and olive over the top.

    In another (non STW) place @POAH went to the trouble of measuring fluid per pull …

    Nice one steve, I thought that would be the case but that’s reassuring.

    I long ago stopped bothering so now I have just about every mix possible… often just to fit a shifter if it’s ispec (though now only buy bar mounts anyway)

    Stablebarns
    Free Member

    Wiskey, I followed your link to the other thread and the last post seems to be about using Maguras? Are you able to elaborate on what was in that post,or am I missing something?

    Lockdown seems to make this repair issue a lot more viable… I have a bout 4 different leaking shimano Deore callipers. But I have no idea whther it’s at the piston or this other joiney place.

    Davesport
    Full Member

    I’ve stripped and rebuilt a few of the Shimano 2 piece calipers without replacing any parts. All of the calipers that I’ve had apart have had corrosion issues in the sealing ring groove allowing fluid to seep out. Once properly cleaned and reassembled they’ve held pressure and didn’t leak. For how long???

    There are plenty vids on youtube showing how to strip the calipers. Where it get awkward is getting the pistons out. I used compressed air with the caliper halves wrapped in a rag. Once out the seals are exposed and can be removed. All of the seals I looked at were like new. The O ring between the halves also in good condition. Once the seals are out it was obvious that there was dirt and corrosion in the ring groove. I polished this out using some metal polish and a synthetic brush on a Dremmel. The pistons got a quick clean up with some 1200 wet and dry and soapy water.

    Reassembling I put a wee bit corrosion inhibitor in the ring groove & used an anaerobic sealer between the caliper halves. Pistons and seals given a light coating of silicon.

    The alloy Shimano have used doesn’t seem very resistant to corrosion and the calipers aren’t anodised. The other thing that became obvious was how much the caliper flexes when under pressure. The two halves visibly distort & this makes the bores go out of line with each other. There were witness marks in the caliper bores where I assume the pistons had been binding.

    As pointed out you can get a new caliper for 22 Euro. I don’t think I would bother refurbishing any more of these. It’s simply not worth the effort.

    Wiksey
    Free Member

    Stablebarns, no worries.

    The orings I bought were these:
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141455807147?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=440603744128&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

    spangelsaregreat did the hard work which is why I linked rather than it looking like I knew what I was doing! These are 3mm internal diameter and 1.5mm width. The original ones are 3mm 1.3mm.
    Their instructions are as follows:
    “Easy to do, remove caliper, remove the securing bolts to split the caliper, replace o ring, re assemble and bleed”

    It really was that easy and saves junking more calipers for the sake of a few pence – nothing to lose really.

    Neb
    Full Member

    Using magura calipers increases the hydraulic leverage and increases power a bit above saints. I’m using M675 levers and MT5 calipers, with cheap Chinese brake pads (£1 a pair) and the power is immense.

    Stablebarns
    Free Member

    Thanks Wiskey. That’s very clear now. I’ll give it a go. Neb, again just to be clear are you using Magura levers with shimano calipers? That’s coz they both use mineral oil I presume… I have never used Maguras.

    Stablebarns
    Free Member

    Just bought the o rings. I mean £2 odd delivered…. gotta be worth a go.

    globalti
    Free Member

    Interestng thread. I would always try to overhaul before replacing – what have you got to lose?

    My philosophy is influenced by having owned and maintained a Land Rover, which was probably one of the most DIY-friendly objects I have even owned.

    stevextc
    Free Member

    My philosophy is influenced by having owned and maintained a Land Rover, which was probably one of the most DIY-friendly objects I have even owned.

    Shimano brakes are kinda the opposite though … cheap as chips top replace and a pain in the arse to work on the insides… (say’s the guy bored enough to be sat typing this next to a dismantled M785 lever but run out of forks and shocks and bearings to service )

    rossburton
    Free Member

    I’ve four five bikes in the garage with the same M615 brakes, three of which mysteriously loose oil a while after bleeding and squeal. I’m guessing this is relevant…

    I’m very tempted to switch my bike to Hope brakes on the rationale of long-term supply of parts, but ironically my main bike is the one bike that doesn’t have these problems.

    Wiksey
    Free Member

    Rossburton, that was exactly what I was up against – squealing brakes, disappearing fluid but no obvious sign of where it was going. Ended up with losing braking force and bikes being unrideable. I was all set to buy new when I asked on here and sorted the brakes on 2 bikes for a few pence. It seems to give more problems on bikes that have been stood for a while (I don’t get as much chance to get out these days)

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