Oak worktop and water damage help reqd

I look at people who put carpets on the floor in a house in a similar way.

You mean people who like warm feet and rooms that don’t echo like a public loo? 😉

Nah I mean folk who walk on bacteria riddled Petri dishes.

You mean people who like warm feet and rooms that don’t echo like a public loo?

Ahhhh, badly installed floors…

Is carpet being cancelled now? So I can’t use my wooden worktops because they’re just for show and I need to pull up my carpets because they contain germs 🤔

Nah I mean folk who walk on bacteria riddled Petri dishes.

See, now, what I do is simply avoid licking the carpet unless it’s absolutely necessary, and it must work as I’m not dead yet.

Are rugs allowed? Or is it a strict zero floor textiles policy?

Thanks all. Feels like all the usual STW approaches have been covered, some really helpful, some much less so and some others.

The worktop still isn’t in the kitchen.
We do have a rug, but it was from John Lewis so must be ok.
We do have minimal carpet, it’s only on the stairs, as I ran out of energy at the end of the build to do anything more involved.

I will be keeping the oak worktop in the utility room.

I’ll sand it down and use the Oxalic stuff to get rid of any stubborn stains.
Then I’m going to use what is clearly to STW left field and using the suggested yacht varnish, if it’s good for million squid yachts then it’s good for enough for this.

I’ll report back with progress, as I’ve never used this before.

If it does work, I may consider using it on the side oak door that leads to this room.

Don’t want to labour the point but oxalic first, you may find you don’t need to sand it. It’s kin miracle stuff.

@BillMC

Don’t want to labour the point but oxalic first, you may find you don’t need to sand it. It’s kin miracle stuff

Good point, I will use the oxalic first.

For any/all of these varnishes/oils etc, how important is it to get any previous finishes off first?

I’m going to have to do ours, but getting whatever’s on there now (and I think it might be Danish Oil, going off the tin they left in the garage) off is is probably, well, definitely, not feasible.

If it’s not in a good state then I think it’s important to remove the current finish. Probably also necessary if you’re changing treatment. Mine were in a terrible state from years of Danish oil so I scraped and sanded it off to start again with a different product. You’ll know when it’s going as the sanding will produce dust rather than gumming up.

But it sounds like oxalic would be worth trying first as above.