Adjoining garage is leaking, seems to be relatively badly and worrying me about damp into the house.

It is where the current asbestos roof joins the wall of the house, and the joint seems to have started to fail. Normally a couple of drips come in and its fine to ignore, but given the near constant rain for 6 weeks I’ve got a small amount of standing water at the bottom of the wall.

I don’t think it is viable to get ontop of the roof to look at the flashing as the roof as I believe it is likely quite fragile and I’m worried it will make it worse.. I don’t want to replace the roof (yet) as the whole lot will get knocked down as part of an extension.

I don’t seem to be able to position buckets well enough to catch all of it.

Any ideas for sealing from below? Should I just try a whole load of sealent as a temp measure? Any clever way of channeling the leak so it all goes into a bucket? It is above my asgard shed which is pretty muich immovable and needs the lid to open – so any bucket I balance on it has to move.

I fyou seal it from below, you’re only diverting it to somewhere else it shouldn’t be and potentially causing more damage.

Any clever way of channeling the leak so it all goes into a bucket?

Hang a length of gutter from the underside of the garage roof with a bucket at one end?

CT1

I’ve seen a few industrial buildings with internal guttering for leaks. It does work. You can do similar with string or chain for small amounts of water. The surface tension keeps the water stuck to the string. You can use sealant. I’ve done this on a corrugated roof with reasonable success. Use a heavy duty roof and gutter sealant. Takes a while to go off and does smell a bit but it sticks and seals. As above, be aware where the water will then go, but hopefully it’ll stay outside and run down the surface of the roof

Are you sure you cant get on the roof? Either walking on a ladder or scaffold board with sofa cushions or similar under it to protect the fragile roof material. That or a bridge with a scaffold board on a ladder one side and a something else on the other end.

It will obviously be a lot easier to fix from above.

CT1 works
there are other newer alternatives.

Cheers all, not sure why I didn’t think of internal guttering – they would do the job and take about 10mins to set up so that it catches the drips and means it will go in the bucket

I have some plumbers gold lying about, probably still usuable, may give it a go, if not try some CT1, if that fails the guttering and empty a bucket option

interesting video on that CT1 stuff (or alternatives)

ive got a small leak in our roof that our builder mate thinks will be the gully/valley i believe, and says itll need replacing. quoted £1100 + vat for it! :-/

will this stuff be a good bodge do you think? or will the problem be finding exactly where the leaks coming in?

The short answer is that there is one way to find out.
Although CT1 does stick to wet surfaces, it needs to be a clean wet surface. If it is old wet slimey moldy dirty surface then it will not stick.

If it is a repair to get by until the roof is repaired properly then it is worth trying.
But as a serious long term, next ten years, repair probably not ideal.

Just run an internal gutter and shape sheet metal drip trays where there’s wider ingress points. We do this quite a lot for water ingress that can’t be addressed in any other way.

I fixed a leak at a consevatory/house join using Thomson’s water seal brushed into the pointing where the lead went in.
Did it leaning out of first floor window.
It is very runny liquid and in theory could be squirted from a distance.

Flexacryl

https://www.screwfix.com/p/cementone-flexacryl-roof-repair-compound-grey-5kg/46079