I have a set of SRAM Guide RS brakes and I want to adjust the bite point as it bites as the lever is too close to the bar.

What is the process to adjust this as there is no ‘tools freeway of doing it.

I have a bleed kit to hand

Thanks in advance!

I would start with a bleed as they should not be hitting the bar before working.

Needs a bleed. You can adjust lever position, but not bite point.

Once properly bled, you could pull lever whilst wheel is out and move the pads in and then make that the ‘home’ for the pads…you’d need to add a bit more fluid once done and it will mean new pads will have an even shorter throw, but might means putting wheel back in frame a bit harder.

The pads sit very close to the disk as it is.

Thanks all for your replies!

I’ve been using the sram bleed kit. At the end remove top syringe and close reservoir. Then open the bleeding edge valve at calliper end and pressurise slightly before closing it. Mine bite miles from the bar.

Over filling the system is on temporary Though, as pads wear it’ll move, I’ll take consistency over a wandering bite point.

Plus if the system is over filled, there’s no space for the fluid to expand into when things get Got, again resulting in a wandering bite point.

Just doesn’t make sense to do in order just to achieve a shorter lever throw for a little bit.

sticky pistons – lube ’em and work in and out.  BIte point will move out from the bars

Overfilling can blow seals too – Formula are particularly bad for this but I’ve often wondered if it’s at the bottom of the rash of Shimano failures as it seems to have passed into common practice as the standard way to do things even though it’s wrong really.

As above, pad wear will cause this.  If you rebleed now to get the lever feel back, don’t forget you’ll need to let fluid out and possibly rebleed again when you change pads.

Bite Point/ Lever throw is a well known ‘characteristic’ of Sram guides. I have Guides RSC and the bite point adjust is almost next to useless if you follow Srams bleed procedure and dial the Contact point adjuster dial in the opposite direction.

The fix/hack/bodge is to bleed with the pistons pumped out slightly and overfill the system, and if you have contact point adjustment dial it halfway(50 clicks). I’ve been doing and had no problems, but it;s not ideal.

I had this with mine after a week’s alpine riding in the alps, just needed an air bleed and more fluid adding 👍