Hope 3 conversion to 12mm/142mm through axle?

I’ve seen a Hope Pro 3 rear hub on ebay, and I was wondering if it could be easily converted from 130mm/qr axle ro 142mm/12mm through axle. Anyone done this?

I need a replacement hub for my Superstar Components V6 that decided to split across the middle.

Did they ever do a 130mm disc hub? I’d imagine the hun shell is narrower than a 135/142mm hub.

Those hubs require a.3 bolt rotor iirc.

Rim brake hub?

If you mean 135mm qr then Hope did adaptors to convert to 142mm and if it is the three bolt disc version Hope did sell discs up to 180mm though there was also a six bolt version.  I think they were all 24 spoke but may be wrong.  If you are looking at a fairly obscure 24 straight pull spoke, three bolt disc hub I have to ask why you’d give yourself the hassle?

Hope tech page:

https://www.hopetech.com/_repository/1/documents/Pro3SP-AM4RearExploded.pdf

I think I’ll give a miss then. Thanks for the info. I think it’ll be easier (and cheaper) to build a new back wheel (32h) than find a decent 24h rear 142mm disc to replace my bust V6.

Wolf tooth adapters better than hope for this. They don’t alter the cassette placing just use a spacer under the disc. Yes a re-dish is needed but the wheel has less dish after so is stronger.

notes I made

Boostinator

It’s great to be able to continue to use non boost wheels and actually they end up nicely dished when adapted the preferred way (which involves minor re-dishing).

I’ve done this with both front and rear, both Hope and DT hubs using Wolftooth Boostinator kits.

Once done you’d think the hub was made that way.

Wolftooth Boostinator in more expensive, true, but a proper machined end-cap specific to your axle is surely worth it. e.g. https://tinyurl.com/woltoothHR

plus – I hate the idea of loose spacers to get lost trailside and make wheel fitting more fiddly.

REAR:

Got a boost frame and want an old non boost rear wheel to fit, here’s what I think:

If Wolftooth make the Boostinator kit for your wheel (they do for at least DT & Hope) go for it.

<b>What are the advantages of the “need to re-dish” rear kits?</b>

[Just one 6mm axle spacer for disc side and disc is also spaced 6mm, so kit also includes longer bolts, no adjustment to axle spacing on cassette side]:

A rear boost hub is 6mm wider, all that width has been added to the disc side of the hub.

1: Chainline with “need to re-dish” rear kit:

Cassette position stays the same as with a proper boost wheel so Chainline is unchanged, also if you’re running 2 sets of wheels, one set’s adapted and one set’s boost then there’s no need to reset the derailleur when swopping. Nice

2: Wheel dish with “need to re-dish” rear kit:

Since a rear wheel has a very “flat” bracing angle on the drive side spokes, then re-dishing (only about 1.5 nipple turns) is actually improving the “dish” and, therefore, improving wheel strength because the “dish” is improved by 6mm.

IF you want to move one rear wheel between 2 bikes, one bike’s boost one not, then that changes. The kits with washers both sides  / i.e. no re-dish version makes that easier for sure.

FRONT:

Got a boost fork and want an old non boost front wheel to fit then these kits are vital.

If Wolftooth make the Boostinator kit for your wheel (DT/Hope) that’s even better IMO, because it has the full endcap and no fiddly spacers to drop off.

A front boost hub is 10mm wider, all that width is added to the non disc side of the hub.

So, what’s the advantage of the “need to re-dish” front version

[just one 10mm longer end-cap (or axle spacer) for the non disc side], no disc spacer :

Better wheel dish with “need to re-dish” front kit:

Since a front non boost wheel has a very “flat” bracing angle on the disc side spokes, it’s actually improving the “dish” and, therefore, improving wheel strength to use a kit that requires re-dishing. Because the dish is improved by 10mm.

Note on front disc position, it ends up the same with either kit:

With a “need to re-dish” front kit fitted (such as Wolftooth), the disc position is unaltered on the hub, it’s in the same position as it always was relative to the calliper, which is also same position the disc on a genuine boost front wheel, the caliper doesn’t need to move.

The “non re-dish” front kits that use a 5mm washer each end of the axle add a 5mm disc spacer to keep it in the same position relative to the calliper too.

IF you want to move one front wheel between 2 bikes, one bike’s boost one not, then that changes. The non re-dish version makes that easier for sure. re-dishing every swop would be a pain.

seems complicated doesn’t it

its not when you do it.