Fox Float CTD lever doesn’t do anything

I have a Fox Float CTD Boost Valve on my Horsethief. When I switch the lever between Climb, Trail and Descend it doesn’t appear to make any difference to the firmness of the ride. I know it’s not a full lockout switch but I can’t feel any difference to the firmness when riding.

I’ve given the shock an air can service but that’s made no difference, do I need to do a full strip down and rebuild? Or is there anything else I can do? Or does it sound like it’s working ok?

I have an RP23 displaying the same behaviour.

I think it never worked properly if the pressure was high or if the sag was wrong.

But now it’s looking like a full service or replacement – 10 years old so it may be replacement as even a basic shock today is probably as good if not better.

I think it’s full service time for you.

Yeah that’s what I was starting to fear.

I’ll have a look at a new one too as you say a basic modern shock may well be better than this older one.

Didn’t CTD mean Can’t Tell any Difference?

I have the same shock, i can easily tell the difference between the 3 settings.
Sounds like yours has been borked from day one tbh.
I mean, I wouldn’t say the difference is huge, but i can easily tell.

Mine did this a couple of weeks ago – in desperation I let all the air out, turned the damping dial to max and min a couple of times, pumped it up (compressing the suspension every 50psi), swore at it it and magically it started working again.

Mine did this a couple of weeks ago – in desperation I let all the air out, turned the damping dial to max and min a couple of times, pumped it up (compressing the suspension every 50psi), swore at it it and magically it started working again.

Just tried that, doesn’t seem to have made a jot of difference. 😥

They are shite that’s why

Are you sure the cable from the lever’s tightened sufficiently? I went the first couple of years of ownership just assuming there was no noticeable difference! 😳

After adjusting the cable tension, the lever pull now rotates the adjuster on top of the fork fully and there is a noticeable difference (well, certainly between climb and descend settings- still not sold on their being much point to the middle trail setting).

This isn’t a remote lever, just the dial on the shock body.

Going to book it in for a full service, the local place says they can fix the issue with a full service.

Mine seems to work, it’s really only a 3 position “compression preset” dial so perhaps expecting huge changes is a bit wishful anyway but it does have a noticeable effect.

I prefer leave it in ‘T’ mostly, sometimes use ‘C’ for winching or for long tarmac sections ‘D’ is only really used for longer rougher descending as all it does is wind the compression off.
The “trail” setting is a generally acceptable option, who really wants to be flipping a switch every few minutes when riding?

IIRC different versions of CTD fail for a couple of different reasons i.e. the lever/shaft can become disconnected from the little actuating cam or the compression shaft might get stuck so you’re just left with the compression damping in that position whatever the dial does.

Cranking the shock through its Range of movement might manage to dislodge the compression shaft, in that situation, if I needed to use the bike, I’d personally just stick it in ‘T’ and leave it in case it gumed up again, treat it like a fixed compression shock, ultimately it would need a service…

Which Horsethief have you got? I leave mine in T almost all of the time on my 2014 model. There is a noticeable difference, particularly going from T->C.

It’s a 2014 too I think. Split pivot model

Could just be low IFP pressure, those shock rely on a high IFP pressure.

I would suggest just sending it in for service (unless you want to service it)