Boost adaptors???

Different adaptors for converting 142 to 148, hope use 3mm each side others 6mm in cassette side. What the difference and is it better to keep cassette on the centreline or inline with dropout?

For the rear I prefer the spacers all on the disc side to keep the cassette where it’s supposed to be.

For the front I do one each side

for Hope front hubs i used the MRP adaptor as the Hope one looks like a bodge.

3mm either side and a 6mm disc spacer. Used this combo for over a year with no issues.

If you use both on the same side you are supposedly meant to re-dish the wheel to keep it central!!

I have yet to use m y adapters as a set of cheap boost wheels came up while I was waiting for them

Put all the space on one side, then redish for a stronger wheel.

Nowt wrong with the Hope one, can’t see how it’s a bodge in any way shape or form. Just replacement top hats and they’re manufactured to Hopes usual top notch quality. No issues with the adjustment of the mech to accommodate the more onboard cassette…well within the mechs adjustment range. Only difference is with the other type is you need to re-dish your wheel. Doesn’t matter either way.

Spacers each side would go better with non boost cranks.

Spacers on non drive side and a resisted wheel would put the cassette in the right place for boost cranks and allow for easy wheel swaps with boost wheels.

Plus spacers each side would make it easier to use the wheels in a non-boost frame or fork.

The front hope one is only a bodge if you consider redishing a bodge. However not you want to share the wheels between boost and non boost forks then the 5mm each side with a disc spacer is better as you only need take the spacers off (or swap out in the case of the MRP).

Just noticed that the OP was on about the rear. My preference in this case is all spacers on the disc side as cassette then ends up in the correct place. This will need a redish.

For the rear I agree with nixie above, not having the cassette in its correct place will cause the derailleur to barely reach the largest cog (I even had to bodge some spacers for the jockeys to push them further in); plus, the massive spring+cable tension will cause the shifter to stick when moving down from that last cog.

The rear hope kit is good, the front is surprisingly lazy on their part and allowed a third party to do it right. I bought the Hope front but just didn’t like the idea of dishing the wheel 5mm off centre, uneven side to side tensions and it just not looking right.

Surely the front hope adapter pushes the rim back over the center of the flanges? Almost all front disk hubs asymmetrical, adding a non-disk side spacer would actually address this.

The opposite of the rear, which spacing the disc side reduces the dish.

N.b. the word dish is a bit misleading, as it’s usually used to refer to building a rim that’s offset over the axle so wouldn’t be central in a wheel jig. Specialized/merrida/carrera/Last among others have done it in the past pre-boost as it centered the rim over the flanges.

+ 1 for either side on my spare wheel, a minor tweak with the barrel adjustor and good to go. These ones … https://mtzoom.com/collections/thru-axles-and-skewers/products/standard-to-boost-thru-axle-hub-adapters

The rear hope kit is good, the front is surprisingly lazy on their part and allowed a third party to do it right. I bought the Hope front but just didn’t like the idea of dishing the wheel 5mm off centre, uneven side to side tensions and it just not looking right.

There is no “right”. Re-dishing, as many have said above, results in more even spoke angles/tensions so a stronger wheel (front or rear). A Hope Pro 2 front hub as standard has flange offsets (from the centreline) of 20mm left/ 33mm right (I think those are my measurements, not official figures, they are what my spreadsheet says but I can’t remember where I got them from). So shifting it 5mm to the right would get you to 25mm/28mm, still not quite even. The re-dishing approach would always be my choice unless external factors such as compatibililty with other wheels/frames indicated the “keep it central” approach. One wheel I have used 2x5mm spacers on has an offset spoke bed so it wasn’t such an issue (an extra 5mm would have taken it beyond central).