Asking for some comparative beam shots at different settings is hardly a big ask…

If you don’t want to do them – that’s one thing, but give the guy requesting them a break.

a break?

All I’m saying is beam comparisson pics are not hugely relivant without a properly set up consistant photographer/camera/setting and a similarly consistent comparisson pic to a light you actually use. Being honest I do actually think that’s a pretty huge ask.

But it’s ok now as molgrips has selflessly volunteered to do them. 😉

I’m with Geex here, I took a beam pic.  Posted it then was asked for more…like it wasn’t good enough! I will likely take some more but having to mess around loading them with this crappy forum software is a pain! I would say if you are concerned about burn times, beam patterns blah blah, this isn’t the light for you.  It’s a £55 halford light ffs!

I will say though that for me, this light coupled with ab exposure diablo.  Is as good as any combo I have used.  The battery is perfectly acceptable for 2 1/2 hour night rides if you cycle the modes (does anyone really ride with full beam on for 3hrs). It offers a wonderful clear wide, white light (see my picture of the beam) it’s good enough for Fast FOD off piste trails in the pitch black, so would suggest it’s good enough for weekly night rides pretty much any where.

I would say if you are concerned about burn times, beam patterns blah blah, this isn’t the light for you.

I’d have thought it was reasonable to be concerned about beam patters and burn times if you’re buying any light, even a relatively cheap one? Not sure where you’re coming from.

My point is that, a photo has been taken of the beam pattern, the real life usuage on burn times has been discussed.  The light is a £50 Halfords special, I’m not sure what more information people can give!

My my suggestion would be for people to buy one and if they find it’s not fit for purpose, return it!  It’s from Halfords for heavens sake not some moody online retailer!  Both geex and I have posted our thoughts, answered questions and even taken time to post photos.  Hence where I’m coming from.   Sorry if that comes across grumpy, but it feels that sometimes people need to read a whole thread before posting!

Yes. A break.  He’s not asking for a professional or informed opinion on whether they are helpful.  He’s asking because he thinks it will be useful.

read a whole thread before posting!

As I did.

Dick – had the same problem with the rubber spacer on the out front mount. Its a real ball ache to squeeze close enough to get the bolt to bite

Got it on eventually using vice grips to close the thing up and turn the bolt in

I know it’s not strictly relevant to the light in question, but I can’t believe the makers of cheap and not so cheap bike lights – yes, Exposure, I mean you – still haven’t managed to devise a switching method that doesn’t mean constantly cycling through increasing light levels to make a downward adjustment. Have I missed something. It just seems odd

My diablo is programmable, with tap function.  I use a mode where I have dipped and full power which gives me about 2 1/2hrs use and mode change by punching myself on the head.

You make a good point though, wouldn’t it be nice if you could program a lights power and function rather than work off a set of preset options? For me the function click through on the Bikehut light is the worse thing about it. Albeit it’s not a deal breaker! For such a tiny amount of money I think it’s great value

I’m not even sure which client Jamj1974 is even acting for.

As I did

If you did you would’ve seen the picture of the beam pattern and answers on burn time.  I’m happy to answer questions and help out, in fact there have been at least 3 in depth reviews of this light now just in this thread.

Lulz at you guys.

My diablo is programmable, with tap function.  I use a mode where I have dipped and full power which gives me about 2 1/2hrs use and mode change by punching myself on the head.

Yep, I use Exposure lights in the same way – program set to two levels, alternate between them – but without the punching myself in the head. The bar remote works pretty well, though not, I guess, if the light is on your head.

If you want three levels though, you’re back to cycling sequentially through levels again though.

No agreed, bit shoddy that you have to click through, especially on a light 4 times the price of the Halfords job.  In reality though for most people the 2 functions are enough in terms of night ride ‘juice’ different  kettle of fish I’m sure for those crazy guys that do the 24hr events.

I would love the ability to programme my light properly.  Maybe via a laptop or a phone.  I only really need a couple of settings.  I certainly don’t need some weird pulsing light function I get on the halford job.  Some of the settings on there remind me of night club lights from the 1990’s

I bought the Hope QR handlebar clamp…wiggled around with the handlebar spacers and the unit screws straight on to the light. Properly solid and doesn’t appear to have any of the wobble the outfront clamp or rubber strap creates.

8 quid from CRC and is a definite benefit to the light!

linky?

I’m guessing this one:

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-universal-handlebar-mount/rp-prod23533?gs=1&sku=sku72337&pgrid=60711842778&ptaid=pla-450130686874&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|sx8hN6I8c_dc|pcrid|294922111643|pkw||pmt||prd|72337UK

I use the Lumicycle one – I have a pair hanging around from an old set, and they can still be found here:

https://www.lumicycle.com/accessories/q-r-large-camlock-bracket.html

I imagine they’re both the same, but I’ve not checked whether the Hope oneallows you to put a bolt up into the light body or not. But we’re looking at £8 for something you can return if it’s wront, or double the amount for the Lumicycle one.

Couple of other updates from me:

Halfords seems to have put the price of the light up from £50 to £60.

I bought a second remote the other week and broke it open. Inside are two microswitches – the one that gives a click when you lift the switch lever but doesn’t do anything isn’t actuall connected. The internals are basic and open to the elements, but I’m guessing that doesn’t really mean much with such low voltages. There are two wires from the USB C cable to the microswitch, and what looks like a couple of teeny resistors. I have pics, but no idea how to post them on the new forum.

I’m guessing you could hugely cut down the switch to something the size of about four 5ps stacked on top of each other to strap around a grip just above a dropper remote. Seriously: it wouldn’t take a huge amount of faff to do. I need to sort out my garage / shed / work shizzle first in order to do this. More later, once I’ve had a chance to tinker.

Tempted by one for the misses but I do like the ‘Race’ mode on my Lesyne 1500i which makes the light have just high and low power modes. Otherwise the lights look very similar.

Also using a Hope qr light clamp, and it holds the light solidly, and yes it is bolted into the light body.

I have the 1000 lumen version and the remote works like this:

1 click forwards when the light is OFF, lights battery indicator in red to show how much charge is left.

1 click forwards when the light is ON, does nothing.

1 click forwards and hold when the light is OFF, turns the light ON

1 click forwards and hold when the light is ON, turns the light OFF

Clicking down when the light is ON, cycles through the different modes.

Mine is attached to my road bike at the mo, and so far haven’t been impressed with any of the mounts.

The out front mount is too flexible and causes the light to vibrate all over the place. Its a good idea but just not stiff enough. Neither of the rubber mounts inspired confidence.

It is now attached to a K Edge out front GoPro mount and is solid.

Not inspired by the out front mount from the off. I wanted something more substantial. The fannying about with the thumb screw, it never quite made good contact,  made me look elsewhere.

Hope clamp, aluminium spacer now rock solid.

Great light, let down a bit by the mount and flimsy remote which I found a bit cumbersome.

Go-pro style mount modified from £5 ebay jobby:

Re-housed the remote switch with a 3D printed jobby, happy to share the .stl file if anyone wants to print their own.

Ooh, nice one. I’d like the file please, got a 3D printer here at work 🙂

I’ll send PM.

Oh my word! If anyone fancies making a couple more, let me know. Will be very happy to swap for beer tokens.

Bought the light on these recommendations, and pleased with it!

However not sure if mine has a charging problem: No matter how long I charge it for (from usb port or plug) the top light never stops flashing, suggesting it isn’t at 100%. All the lights might up when I do the battery test though.

Can anyone confirm all their lights do/don’t stop flashing when charging?! Thanks!

The red lights stop flashing on mine when it’s fully charged. Are you using a 5A power supply?

BTW, on the buttons, it might be worth considering changing the orentation of the hooks for mounting so it’s a bit more like the old Di2 shiftery thing:

Is it supposed to light up when charging? It lit up the first time but isn’t anymore?

I see someone else has the same issue above

Good idea Bent Udder,

Mk2:

If anyone wants one, it’s 1 x beer token posted. (£4.50 around these parts)

That’s really cool Mikey but I don’t really get the point. ie. it looks way more complicated and slower to cycle through that flicking the lever.

Does it have two buttons? (one to cycle through modes and one to switch on/off)

Geex,

yeah, the buttons just do what the lever did (up was on/off, down was cycling the modes)

The reason I did it was I struggled to mount the stock remote anywhere, I had to strap it to one of the grips and kept accidentally cycling the modes. Plus it’s a pretty flimsy bit of rubbish tbh.

Not saying my version isn’t a flimsy bit of rubbish.. just less so IMHO!

Quick question for anyone who has the 1000lm bikehut light.

What does it weigh?

Thx

I wrapped a slither of Masic tape round my bar between the lock on collar and front brake lever and mount the remote there. it’s not super securely mounted but much more so than mounted to the bare bar and never actually moves in use.

the bikehut remote is kinda cheap but well for a fiver it couldn’t really not be, eh?

@ Geex

Bare light unit (no mounts) = 210g

Light + outfront mount = 270g

Light + rubber mount with ‘stabiliser’ = 240g

These from my Feedback sports scales

HTH

Thanks man.

Pretty much exactly the same weight as the 1600lm light so I’m guessing it’ll use the same batteries/housing but different electronics/LEDs? . Reason I asked was wondering if it might be lighter to helmet mount one. Just noticed I have a spare helmet the rubber mount attaches to perfectly (angle spot on and fairly securely)

Hi.

Can this be used whilst charging with a power bank ?

Cheers

Daft question, but why would you? It surely won’t charge but just drain the power bank…unless you are asking as you effectively want to increase burn time by adding ‘more’ battery?

Hi Dickbarton

yes mate my rides are are sometimes quite long in the night and would like the option to extend the burn time if required.   I have a few cree lights but this looks spot on for my helmet.

Ah ok…would it be better to have a unit with separate battery pack so you could ask someone like mtbbatteries to make a bigger battery pack to last longer? Might be more expensive but maybe easier as once the rubber covers are removed, the light isn’t waterproof.

That’s really cool Mikey but I don’t really get the point. ie. it looks way more complicated and slower to cycle through that flicking the lever.

I haven’t tried Mikey’s switch (although I’m just about to send him some beer tokens if he’s willing to print a couple more for me), but I’ve found the stock one to be a bit of a hassle. Mostly it’s to do with the lever throw and lack of positivity in the action. So you’ve got a longish throw for a single acuation (and you need to do a few of those to cycle through) and it feels really feeble. I also found that if a bit of rubber got in the way (and I used a different o ring thingy to get it tighter on the bars) then it wouldn’t activate. This is, of course, massive splitting hairs as it was intended to go on the flat part of a pair of road drops, possibly with tape on as well, rather than the bare bar between grip and brake lever.Mikey’s switch enclosure looks like it’d sort out a few of the grumbles I have about the existing set-up. I’ve noticed on my last few rides, by the way, that I’m leaving it in 1600lm and simply switching it off if I’m not descending, and letting the Exposure Axis on my noggin burn on. For a two hour thrash around in the dark, that’s perfectly adequate, but I’d expect to do a bit more flipping around between modes on both lights for anything longer.

Bent Udder, yeah, that pretty much sums up my experience with the stock lever.

YGM

Cheers

Mike