Home Forums Bike Forum A quick poll – Carrying bikes on cars

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  • A quick poll – Carrying bikes on cars
  • neil853
    Free Member

    One problem with roof racks apart from fuel consumption is that dirt falls onto your car

    This is an annoyance, not a problem.

    steveh
    Full Member

    C for me. I’ve tried every other method and now will only use towbar mounted racks when with the car.

    jamesb
    Free Member

    A roof mounted rack; BUT this is very much a second preference to having bike in back of estate car be bike whole or partially disassembled , ie front wheel off

    As for dirt falling on car; depends on your car upkeep, a wash a year is OK and if it rains enough teh dirt washes off teh roof 🙂

    lobby_dosser
    Free Member

    used to be b. but I never felt secure with this method, then I got a. and used for a while until I dropped one. I aslo felt a bit restricted with the height.

    Now d. in the car everytime.

    pinkturtle
    Free Member

    The only thing that puts me off C is its not viable to leave it on all the time (I think)

    The only time I take my hitch rack off is when I’m towing a trailer, which is only a few days a year. My rack folds up pretty tight to the truck.

    See here for pics.
    Canoe on Ridge from rear

    Liftman
    Full Member

    D. In the back of the pick up.

    ned.c
    Free Member

    c, but on a towbar flange mounted rack, not on the towball itself. better mpg, can be quickly removed and slung in the boot once parked up and bikes dismounted. some types lean forwards to allow access to the boot without removing the bikes, I just pull the back seats forward if I need something. I’ve got the witter one and it can take 3x adult bikes with careful mounting.

    -m-
    Free Member

    C all the way for me – on a flange-mounted wheel support rack (if they’re not in the boot)

    rocmagnet
    Free Member

    Was (B) with a thule rack
    Now (C) with a thule rack
    Both secure and easy to fit/use

    Xylene
    Free Member

    I got some Halford Advanced carriers, which were great, until I put 140mm travel forks on my Enduro and now it doesn’t fit, so D.

    crotchrocket
    Free Member

    done all three over the years.
    if a company bmw or merc I used A – because the company paid the fuel, they didn’t like tow balls & the german premium cars have ‘screw into the roof’ roofbars which do not slide about & scratch the roof like ‘clamp on’ roof bars.

    on the wifes car: C (witter)
    because nothing touches the paintwork, the MPG is better with bikes behind rather than on top & on her CR-V you can still get in the boot with a bar mounted witter.

    HTH

    TheFopster
    Free Member

    a) all the way now for me. Would prefer in the back of the car for security but currently in a saloon and a bit of a faff to load/unload. Used to use rear rack but was never happy it was safely secured. Roof is best bet for me.

    7hz
    Free Member

    c) Tow ball mounted.

    + Better fuel economy (I’m convinced with the old Subaru Legacy the economy went UP with bikes on the back – reduced drag?

    + Easy to attach bikes

    + Don’t trash bikes driving into things

    + See bikes all the time

    + East to take off (1 bolt)

    + Comes with lights and number plate

    + Looks cool

    + Much easier than roof mounting on a 4×4!

    scottidog
    Free Member

    B is excellent for covering up the number plate to protect against speed cameras.

    snowslave
    Free Member

    if up to 2 bikes, in the car. Over this, they go on the roof. Use thule 591s, they’re brilliant. Easy to put the carriers on and off, and the bikes go on and off v quick.

    Cons, when robbers see the roof carriers, they know there are probably bikes to be nicked in the house/shed/garage. That’s why I like being able to take them off and remove them easily, but that’s my fault for living in crime central

    br
    Free Member

    C for me, on either car.

    And probably the one thats safe at pretty much any speed, +135mph (on the speedo) 😳

    myheadsashed
    Full Member

    B is excellent for covering up the number plate to protect against speed cameras.

    Also excellent for a nice fine – obscured number plate!!

    bol
    Full Member

    If I can’t get the bike/s in the car, I still go for A, despite having trashed car and bike driving under a height restrictor. Luckily my house insurance paid out for the bike damage under accidental damage, and I’ve just got my nicely re-built Prius back from the garage. Sticking bikes on the roof is just so easy, but clearly fuel consption and abscent minded damage are both downsides.

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    Used to be B on rear though never very certain of safety of it,now using A on roof using a Thule set of bars with Thule fork mounted racks very secure but even i noticed a drop in mpg which is fine on local jaunts but on longer runs to the valleys i try and car share to share fuel costs, usually get around 60-62mpg but with 2 bikes on over to Afan i was getting early 50’s or so .

    If i had an estate it would be in the back for me i guess?

    andrewh
    Free Member

    B is excellent for covering up the number plate to protect against speed cameras.

    Also excellent for a nice fine – obscured number plate!!

    If you’ve covered it properly they won’t know who it is to send the fine to… 🙂

    ivantate
    Free Member

    In the car for me most of the time, otherwise A. I will always have a car that gives both options.

    Multipurpose rack using thule 591s, when not in use they take up minimal space in the shed.

    asmythe76
    Free Member

    ‘A’ all the way!!!!

    aP
    Free Member

    Quite a lot of roof mounted racks seem to allow a disturbing amount of oscillation to build up in the bikes, I have a fascination watching them wobbly violently on the top of a car going along the 3rd lane of the M4…….
    Oh, d) all the time.

    Grimy
    Free Member

    C) towball mount thule euro for me for all the reasons given above plus,

    Its a much better way to secure an unconventional FS frame design with awquard hydroformed down tubes and FS linkages that just dont work with a roof mount system.

    If somebody drives into the back of me, its their insurance claim and I get a new bike. If your using a roof mount and forget the bikes are on top, Its you that picks up the bill!

    I can remove the towball mount rack in about 30 seconds and I dont advertise the fact I have bikes all year round.

    Much happier being able to see and check on the bikes as Im traveling. The wobble on option A, and the poor clamping on non round tubes just scares me.

    Obvious downside is the shear cost of having a towball fitted and the racks themselves are quite costly.

    bigbloke
    Free Member

    Wobble doesn’t seem to be such an issue if you use the fork mount roof rack. Like this…….

    http://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/rbvehsel4_tab.php?16180

    lipseal
    Free Member

    I use the ‘a’ method but need to change the carrier to a fork mounted one due to what^^ he said, anyone of you wonderful people fancy swapping?

    Bez
    Full Member

    If you reckon strap mounted carriers “bounce” then you’re mounting them seriously wrong, they should be rock solid. And on many cars you can still access the boot if you’re careful. Plus, this is by far the cheapest option if you don’t already have a roof rack or tow ball, especially since on some cars you can mount the bikes with no need for a lighting board.

    So B has always been my choice unless it doesn’t suit the car, where I’ve used the others.

    I don’t like roof mounts. They cane fuel at motorway speeds, they wobble in crossings and I’m a forgetful sod and I knew at some point I’d drive into a car park.

    Interestingly the last strap carrier I bought was in France and they’re now hard to find over here, which I blame on idiots not fitting them properly.

    restless
    Free Member

    C for me as its easiest. I have a thule towball carrier. it goes on in about a minute 😀
    i couldnt have bikes on my roof as my car is too high. i wouldnt be able to reach them. cant have them in the car either as no room, already got pushchair and stuff in there.
    jane

    porter_jamie
    Full Member

    Used to carry the bikes in bits in the back of the Golf, and basically trashed the interior.

    The we got an 850 estate, and found it actually wasnt much bigger inside – less height just a bit longer inside, and trashed the inside of that too.

    Then i got a Thule 3 bike towbar mounted rack from Halfords (cheaper than wiggle – only about 100 quid including light board) and that was a lot better. I could just throw the whole rack into the boot when we got there. I would not trust myself not to forget my pride and joy on a roof mounted rack. Main problem is what to do if you want to go to the pub for lunch because the bikes are all on show. Even locking them dosnt stop you seat posts etc going missing.

    Now i have an old VW T4 van and it is absolutely brilliant, highly recommended. All problems solved, and i do not miss the car at all.

    RustyMac
    Free Member

    A for me.

    I have used B previously but didn’t like the way the rack moved about on the back of the car. No matter how much i tightened the strapps it would still move about.

    Have had no trouble with a thule roof bar mont blank cycle carrier combo. Sure the economy and performance of the car goes down a bit when the bikes are on there but i feel they are more secure than before so it is a price i am willing to pay.

    tow bar mounted was going to prove too expensive for me so although it would probably be the way i would go in the future with a different car i ruled it out for my polo.

    chakaping
    Full Member

    Tow-bar rack.

    Too forgetful to even consider roof-mounted.

Viewing 31 posts - 41 through 71 (of 71 total)

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