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Watches N+1...

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I’ve got no time for tudor at all (badum tish!) but the vast majority of so called tool watches are basically cos-playing their toughness anyway so **** it, make one in silver – at least it’s something a bit original which isn’t something tudor are often accused of being.

What are you going on about? Tudor have been around for many years, they’re not copying anyone else, just look at the number of different brands that copy Rolex hands, ‘Pepsi’ bezel inserts, etc. Tudor make their own in-house movements, the current chrono one in conjunction with Breitling, and their Pelageos is as tough a tool watch as you could want, titanium case, in-house calibre with 70-hour reserve and 500m/1650ft water resistance. They even do a version for left-handed wearers, with the winder on the left side of the case, and compared to the likes of Rolex, not stupidly expensive for that standard of watch at £3440.
Now TAG Heuer, on the other hand...
(And I have a TAG, one of the very first ones, but I would have a Tudor Pelageos over any modern TAG any day).

A gold Tudor tool watch really seems odd to me.

That’s the thing, though, innit. Once you start fannying around with precious metals in the case, bracelet or other parts of the watch it’s posh jewellery, not something you’re going to wear every day. Titanium or stainless is more for tool watches, although some Grand Seiko watches have such highly polished steel cases it’s actually considered an art form! With prices to match.


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 1:50 am
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316 stainless has a hardness of 140 HV - link
Argentium (a proprietary type of 925 silver) has a hardness of 60 HV rising to 125 if age hardened - link

I suspect Tudor are using Argentium or something similar


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 2:19 am
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although some Grand Seiko watches have such highly polished steel cases it’s actually considered an art form! With prices to match.

I've just bought a GS springdrive and the polishing was unbelievable. Of course I simply wore it every day till that was fixed lol.


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 4:21 am
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Well it's not a "proper" watch but I got a deal on a Ticwatch Pro 3 smart watch. My first dabble with a SW.


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 6:30 am
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I can see why Tudors are so popular at their normal price range, but spending tens of thousands on a precious metal one? Fanboy stuff only IMO.

The new Tudor chronograph is right on trend too, actually nicer than the Daytona imo, and thankfully has a sensible quantity of text on the dial.


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 6:51 am
 mmcd
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I've got a Pelagos LHD, it's a fantastic watch, and gets far more comments / compliments than any of my other watches.


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 8:05 am
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There's a lot to like about the Pegalos. Even though I'm not a bracelet man myself, the clasp alone is a thing to behold, better than anything at that price point and beyond.


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 8:23 am
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CountZero

What are you going on about? Tudor have been around for many years, they’re not copying anyone else, just look at the number of different brands that copy Rolex hands, ‘Pepsi’ bezel inserts, etc. Tudor make their own in-house movements, the current chrono one in conjunction with Breitling, and their Pelageos is as tough a tool watch as you could want, titanium case, in-house calibre with 70-hour reserve and 500m/1650ft water resistance. They even do a version for left-handed wearers, with the winder on the left side of the case, and compared to the likes of Rolex, not stupidly expensive for that standard of watch at £3440.
Now TAG Heuer, on the other hand…
(And I have a TAG, one of the very first ones, but I would have a Tudor Pelageos over any modern TAG any day)


"Meh, they're a self-referential in-house homage brand for people that don't have the money to buy a rolex but lack the imagination to look much further.

When your biggest impact over the last 5 years had been making the same watch but (and wait for this cos it'll blow your mind) making it in blue, then let's be honest any reputation you might have had for originality has long gone.

As for the Pelagos being as tough a watch as you might want - your list of specs doesn't suggest so.

Titanium - no practical difference to toughness other than a reputation for picking up scratches easier. Lighter though, which is nice - helps you forget you're wearing a tudor.

In-house calibre - again, not inherently "tool watch" worthy. Could be considered less-so because it can only be "officially" serviced etc by tudor. Nothing about it goes beyond what is commonly available in terms of durability.

70hr reserve - not sure it makes it more of a tool watch. Makes it a better office watch though, if you can take it off on a Friday and not need to wind it before Monday morning. Gives you time to wear a proper tool watch for your weekend activities.

500m water resistance - not uncommon.

LHD - useful for southpaws but that's not inherently a durability issue.

In fact, there's nothing about the Pelagos that's any different to numerous other sports watches when it comes to durability and there are plenty out there which are objectively better.

Obviously if you want a tool watch that looks like a Pelagos then great, the Pelagos is likely to figure amongst the top 5 or thereabouts"

Is what I'd say if I was trolling anyway. 😉

On a more serious note, there is a huge lack of objectivity in the watch world in general and "tool watches" are pretty much ground-zero for a lot of such nonsense.

It'd be cool to see someone like tudor design an actual tool watch, designed to be tough AF and see what they come up with.

Also, I previously wasn't a fan of tags but they've grown on me a lot recently and there's several I'd have ahead of any tudors, except that silver one - which is somewhat ironic.


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 9:28 am
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Anyone got an idea of value for an original seiko monster with the black face?

SKX779? Not that much tbh, they're quite common. £150-250 and you'd be doing well, maybe a bit more if it's in really good nick on an original bracelet.


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 9:58 am
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This rantette was brought to you courtesy of a bottle of cooking shiraz.

Lol.

That Tudor Chrono is now one of three watches on my 50th list, with the others being the SRQ031J1:

And the Tag Carrera:

Although the Tag maybe deferring to a Speedmaster becuase I already have an Aquaracer Crono.

The Tudor reminds me of the Hamilton Intramatic which I really like.


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 10:00 am
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@johnners.

Thanks, that’s about what I thought. It’s got a normal amount of desk diving scratches to the bracelet etc but otherwise in good nick. I might chance eBay and see what I get. Ta


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 10:09 am
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I might chance eBay and see what I get.

It's probably your best bet. I've an SKX779 myself, it's one of my favourites though tbh it doesn't get much wrist time these days in favour of less chunky and more cuff-friendly alternatives. It may see a revival when short sleeves are more the OOD!


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 10:21 am
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I’m quite fond of it, I just can’t remember when I last wore it regularly!


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 10:26 am
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Having previously been of the opinion that dive watches should never go on a leather strap, i've gotten over if and popped the 58 on a dark brown one. Glad I did as i think it warms the whole watch up nicely


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 11:42 am
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Very nice Dakuan


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 12:46 pm
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i agree,suits it well


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 2:03 pm
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I don't mind a leather strap on a diver but there seems to be a disconcertingly big gap between strap and watch with that combo above.


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 2:09 pm
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haha yeah, one of those things that looks less drastic IRL vs the zoomed photo


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 2:17 pm
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looks less drastic IRL

Glad to hear it! Tonally it's rather a nice combo.


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 4:36 pm
 edd
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@dakuan - where did you get the strap from?

@ivandobski - brilliant rant, love it! (I am a Tudor owner.)


 
Posted : 11/04/2021 7:20 pm
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Was just looking at Northwind's thread about his Grandad's old Omega, and it struck me I'd not not posted a photo of the Seamaster that Wally sent me on it's new strap. Poor picture I'm afraid, I wish I could work out how to take a nice one.


 
Posted : 12/04/2021 9:54 am
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tthew - that's very nice


 
Posted : 12/04/2021 10:00 am
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edd - its one of these: https://bulangandsons.com/collections/watch-straps-accessories/products/siena-brown-leather-watch-strap

made by the same people that Bark and Jack use (JPM)

that seamaster looks lush on its new strap!


 
Posted : 12/04/2021 11:35 am
 edd
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Thanks dakuan, they look great


 
Posted : 12/04/2021 11:38 am
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Speaking of leather straps, I was perusing an article about the best NATO straps, and this one was featured - quite taken with them, it’s the leather keepers instead of steel that I like, far less bulky, but still with the safety factor of having an unbroken strip of leather under the watch. And not stupidly expensive either - their blue one would look good on the Tudor.

https://www.bartonwatchbands.com/collections/leather-watch-bands/products/saddle-brown-leather-nato-style?variant=158868340762

It’d be cool to see someone like tudor design an actual tool watch, designed to be tough AF and see what they come up with.

What, you mean like Seiko with the MarineMaster 300, with the monobloc case?
As far as I know, the term ‘tool’ watch is used to describe any tough, everyday watch that isn’t like that Omega, ie a ‘dress’-type watch, which means any diver or field/military watch that will tolerate being abused and isn’t over-complicated, so no extra complications, computers, etc.
So I’m not entirely sure what the ranting about ‘tool’ watches is all about, tbh - most of my watches would be classed as ‘tool’ watches, the only one that isn’t is my Yema, which is a sports chronograph. The others are divers and a couple of field-style watches, chosen for their clarity and simplicity, and ability to take being knocked around without falling apart.


 
Posted : 12/04/2021 11:58 pm
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@countzero - the strap pictured on the Omega is a Barton band. They're in the moderately expensive price range, but really nice quality so definitely good value for money. Can take a while to be delivered too as they come from the states.


 
Posted : 13/04/2021 10:41 am
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@tthew - tbh, I’d only looked at their NATO straps, I hadn’t realised they did others, although with hindsight it’s pretty obvious they’d have a wide variety of styles. The perforated brown leather on the Seamaster does fit its aesthetic very nicely, although I’m not a fan of the 60’s dress-watch style, I really couldn’t see myself wearing one, but I do have a Yokobies mod Seiko Series 5 field watch style with polished case, the face and hands are very much like my SPORK, or a Sinn, which is the nearest I’d get.
Haven’t worn that in ages, either; I’m much too attached to my Heimdallr watches and the SPORK, which I’ve been wearing for nearly a month.
Back with the Heimdallr ’Tuna’ now.
Come next pay day I can see one of those Barton leather NATO’s winging it way across the Atlantic...
😁


 
Posted : 19/04/2021 12:14 am
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Pleased to see my Omega being enjoyed by a fellow STW watch nut.


 
Posted : 19/04/2021 7:41 am
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Well pleased with it @Wally, I've worn it quite a bit. When you first put it on after wearing a modern watch it looks a bit small, but soon get used to the look. I reckon my missis will want to borrow it for occasions where she won't want to wear her smart watch.


 
Posted : 19/04/2021 11:47 am
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Y’know, looking at that strap on the Omega, I can imagine a few people having issues with all those little holes...


 
Posted : 19/04/2021 11:27 pm
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Always useless at posting pictures on here, so bear with me.

I've found myself buying a few n+1s over lockdown. This turned up today...

Panda

Ah, imgur have stopped supplying the direct link. Will update in a bit.


 
Posted : 21/04/2021 4:55 pm
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Website crashed! OK, take two...

Panda

I miss the 'preview' button...


 
Posted : 21/04/2021 5:12 pm
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I miss the ‘preview’ button…

You can change to an advanced editor in your settings/preference somewhere, (don't ask me to describe it, I just found it by chance!) which has the preview button on it.

Nice chrono too.


 
Posted : 21/04/2021 5:24 pm
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It's under Account -> Preferences -> Fancy Editor


 
Posted : 21/04/2021 5:38 pm
 igm
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Account, preferences, fancy editor

nice spot tthew

edit - 11 seconds!!!


 
Posted : 21/04/2021 5:38 pm
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Ah, thanks - I'll take a look.

In my pic posting frustration I ommitted the watch detail. 1977 Seiko Panda. Managed to find one in great condition and with original seiko parts. I have the seiko strap as well, but am allergic to metal watch straps so the Nato is on for now (which i think works well - better than the original metal strap to be honest). I also have a nice dark brown leather from finwatchstraps on the way.

Should be a nice investment - have always regretted hovering over the Buy It Now button with one of these around 5 years ago, before the prices started going crazy.


 
Posted : 21/04/2021 5:40 pm
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Account -> Preferences -> Fancy Editor

Thanks!


 
Posted : 21/04/2021 5:42 pm
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(which i think works well – better than the original metal strap to be honest).

By coincidence, I was never mentally comfortable with the strap code bracelet I put on my Sea Urchin, and have just logged on after replacing it with a late Bond Nato


 
Posted : 21/04/2021 11:35 pm
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I have an aquaracer on a late bond nato. It looks far better than the metal strap it came with originally.


 
Posted : 22/04/2021 3:03 pm
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I give up!


 
Posted : 22/04/2021 3:46 pm
 Fudd
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1977 Seiko Panda. Managed to find one in great condition and with original seiko parts. I have the seiko strap as well, but am allergic to metal watch straps so the Nato is on for now (which i think works well – better than the original metal strap to be honest). I also have a nice dark brown leather from finwatchstraps on the way.

Should be a nice investment – have always regretted hovering over the Buy It Now button with one of these around 5 years ago, before the prices started going crazy.

Looks like a nice honest example so well done on not buying one of the many filled with a/m parts.

I bought one a few years ago when prices were even sillier - I first took notice of them around 2013 and they rocketed up a lot quicker than Pogue's or 6105's etc. Seems I bought at the peak as I thought it was a 1.2k watch once it had been serviced etc, but I sold it last year for £850 which seemed to be the going rate. Everything else has kept climbing so I reckon it's a blip and now's a good time to buy a Panda.


 
Posted : 22/04/2021 4:10 pm
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What watch strap for nude massage?

(that's going to look really weird when the mods delete that previous message) 😁


 
Posted : 22/04/2021 5:13 pm
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Has anyone got a Yema Navygraf Heritage?


 
Posted : 23/04/2021 11:50 pm
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Has anyone got a Yema Navygraf Heritage?

No, but I was very seriously considering one a while back, when I had some available cash, but some significant outgoings have nipped that in the bud for the time being. Really nice looking watch, and with an in-house movement, and not stupid money either.
It would go well with my original Yema Rallygraf, I feel. Maybe a birthday present to myself for next year.
Not as expensive as I thought...
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/yema/navygraf-ynav2019-ams--id18825236.htm
Speaking of my Rallygraf, mine’s in better condition than this one, cost me £50!
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/yema/yema-rallygraf-super--id19159916.htm


 
Posted : 24/04/2021 12:41 am
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ohh FFS - at some point I'll get images working...


 
Posted : 24/04/2021 7:49 am
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