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I couldn't get past the PRX branding on the dial, looks like it should be on the back of a modded Impreza not the dial of a fairly classic looking watch.
I'm not averse to a nice quartz watch but that isn't one.
Thought I’d show an update to my Heimdallr Tuna, since I had the new movement fitted, along with the MarineMaster 300-style face and hands, and I’ve managed to remove the original ceramic bezel insert and fit the fully lumed one I originally bought for my aborted SKX700 mod. Although they don’t really show very well in the photos, I’ve also fitted some custom stainless Torx bolts that hold the shroud in place, as a final touch.
If anyone has or gets a Tuna, and wants replacement screws, Allen, Phillips or Torx, Andy Stockley is your man, contact him at tunascrews@gmail.com.
He’s a really smashing bloke to deal with, and very helpful, it took two goes to get mine to fit, the Heimdallr shroud holes are very slightly smaller than actual Seiko ones.
Really chuffed with the results.
Prefer my 70s Tissot to the modern version
Love the modded Tuna!
Continuing on the modding theme. I got an SKX007 thinking I'd keep it stock because I like the design. However I've come to realise that the original bezel insert is rubbish. It's just painted metal. Elsewhere on the watch there are lovely machined polished and brushed surfaces. Th metal/silver bits on the bezel insert look like Airfix silver paint.
I think at some point I'd like to change it to a ceramic insert of an identical design, probably an aftermarket one or one from another (more expensive) Seiko, if it would work.
It also made me wonder what the first mods for the SKX were? Was it the bezel insert?
The Tissot there... try pronouncing PRX as if it were someone’s contraction of a word, shorthand as it were - like TDS is tedious, PRX is p***ks?
So that’ll be a no from me.
@dmorts - re SKX007 mods, you may be right, I’ve not seen a definitive history of modding that particular watch, I think it’s something that’s just sort of grown over a few years. The standard inserts are pretty much the same as all sports/dive watches since they were first introduced about fifty years ago, ie anodised aluminium. Ceramic ones are a much more recent innovation, and there are loads available from a variety of sources. The one in my photos above fitted to my ‘Tuna’ homage was bought with the intention of fitting it to an SKX007 I was going to mod into a Tuna, but I discovered the cost was rather more than I anticipated after I saw the Heimdallr in the photo, so I sold on the SKX and bought the watch above.
Be aware, though, that changing the insert ideally requires removing the bezel because the insert needs removing from the back, then any adhesive left removed with acetone and the new insert stuck in place - you can just use an ordinary clear glue, or you can get proper pre-cut 3M adhesive circles to stick to the back of the new ceramic insert, which is what I used.
My insert came from these people, I reckon you ought to be able to find something you like!
https://lcbistore.com/
@Bullet - thank you, I’m really pleased with it now, I’ve never really like the ‘arrow’-style hands that Seiko use, I’d bought the hands and face for the original SKX007 mod project, along with the ceramic insert, but the two Heimdallr watches in the first photo probably only cost a bit more that the total cost of the Tiger mod to turn the SKX007 into a Tuna.
It was only when the date mechanism on the Tuna broke and it needed a new movement that I took the opportunity to use the face, hands and insert, and I couldn’t be happier with it. The other one is a Heimdallr ’homage’ SKX007/MarineMaster 300 mod, so I’ve got two variations on Seiko ‘mods’, both with Seiko movements.
I don’t think Heimdallr do the SKX007/MM300 any more, or the face; mine has ‘Limited Edition’ in tiny letters at the bottom, so I’ve got a bit lucky buying when I did.
Your SKX is not getting much wear since my new Komanderskie arrived at Christmas @countzero it is getting a couple of days out at the moment. @dmorts, agree it wants a better insert and I'll take a look at any suggestions too. Might be worth buying a new bezel to put it in and keep the original if it's in good nick.
It's only since getting into this thread that I found watch modding is a thing! Some intricate work there. It has also got me buying more watches than I need but getting real pleasure from it.
Might be worth buying a new bezel to put it in and keep the original if it’s in good nick.
I should have thought of that, it’s possibly a good option, although getting bezels off without damaging anything is a bit fraught, and the coin-edge bezel I bought to fit my other Heimdallr doesn’t seem to share the same fitting, like the click mechanism.
Replacing the insert on the Tuna was a real pain, because the bezel’s an absolute flush fit to the case, and shows no practical way to prise it off. I accidentally knocked the little ’pip’ that has the lume in off the bezel, so tried using the little hole to lever the insert out, then tried soaking it in WD40 for twelve hours, with no effect.
Then I tried dribbling small amounts of acetone onto the insert, and tried again, pushing the insert around with a large sewing needle, and with some effort it started to move!
Once it started, with a bit more acetone it suddenly spun round and fell out!
Result and a big sigh of relief. A good clean with acetone to remove all the old adhesive and the lumed ceramic insert dropped straight in.
I might contact Heimdallr via their Fb page and see what bezel and insert might fit the MM300 above - the ceramic insert I fitted to the Tuna was too small in diameter to fit the MM300 bezel, so there’s clearly a fair bit of variation going on.
@tthew - I go through phases with mine, the Yema only gets worn if I have a prolonged period when I’m not working, and I haven’t worn my Seiko SPORK for several years.
The MM300 is getting less wear now I’ve got the Tuna completely sorted, but that’ll change at some point.
Good thing I’ve got too many outgoings at the moment, I can’t justify indulging in any more watches, I was very tempted by Heimdallr’s recent monocoque Tuna, with 1000 metre water-resistance and gold PVD details...
Then there’s the recent Yema NavyGraf with their new in-house movement...
The standard inserts are pretty much the same as all sports/dive watches since they were first introduced about fifty years ago, ie anodised aluminium.
Ah ok, I did some research. I think with the bezel being anodised it will age better than I thought. One downside with ceramic inserts is they are more prone to shattering. I'm going to stick with OEM for now.
However, the current bezel doesn't line up at 12 (luckily the chapter ring and dial do). This is something I'd like to try and fix. Also the lump pip looks like it has a dent/line in it. So ideally I'd like to remove the insert and realign it, replacing the lume pip too. Alternatively I could get a new OEM bezel and hope it aligns better.
I will have to weigh up living with a wonky watch or potentially ruining it trying to fix it. Can bezels be removed easily? I have a case back opener.
I will have to weigh up living with a wonky watch or potentially ruining it trying to fix it. Can bezels be removed easily? I have a case back opener.
It's been a doddle to remove the bezel on all the SKX's I've had. Cover the case with tape to prevent scratching and a small thin knife between the case and bezel to pop it.
Think this was asked a month or so back by another user but don't think it got an answer.
Does anyone know if the costs of purchasing from Creation watches is likely to have gone up? It was outside of the EU anyway but not sure what all the new rules etc are?
Cheers
Yep, I went though this although didn't complete with Steinhart. Basically over £135 deduct local tax, then add back 20% (UK VAT) of the value and the couriers handling fee (was £11.50 for a watch via DPD) which you pay to the courier on delivery
Anybody else think Zenith have made a stunning watch for once with the chronometer sport? White dial version, stunning.
I will have to weigh up living with a wonky watch or potentially ruining it trying to fix it. Can bezels be removed easily? I have a case back opener.
You don’t need a case-back opener. What you can try is what I did with my Heimdallr Tuna above, where I explained that the bezel is flush fitted, without an undercut to allow a thin blade or other tool to get a purchase and prise the bezel off. The fact that the insert seems to be misaligned indicates that the adhesive holding it in place has aged and constant wear allowed the insert to ‘creep’ slightly, so get some high-strength acetone, the sort for removing gel nail tips, and some cotton buds. Try a tiny amount at first, to make sure the acetone doesn’t mar the surface - it shouldn’t, anodising is a photochemical process, IIRC, so should be proof against most normal solvents, then soak the bud in acetone and allow it to run around the edges of the insert. Give it a few goes, because it’s going to evaporate fairly quickly, and get something you can use to push against the lume ‘pip’ with, a wooden lolly stick or something; I used a cocktail stick on mine. The insert should start to rotate and then come free; then you can clean all the old adhesive off both surfaces, and put new adhesive onto the bezel and press it back into place, getting the alignment spot-on. You can buy special pre-cut 3M adhesive, or just get some double-sided tape and stick on the back, then use a sharp, pointed blade to carefully cut around the inside and outside of the insert.
There’s lots of instructions on the web about replacing bezel inserts, most relying on the bezel being removed, but it can be done without, just with care.
My Yema chronograph and my TAG-Heuer Night Diver have alloy bezel inserts, and neither will be replaced, they have a quality and aesthetic that is right for the periods they were made - late 1960’s and mid-1980’s, but ceramic inserts do give greater scope for customising, and while they can be shattered, (and I’m not sure what such an impact might do to the watch), alloy is relatively soft, and very easily scratched and gouged, and abraded, and bent permanently if mis-handled while removing, so it’s easy to see why ceramic is being used so much now.
You couldn’t really make a fully-lumed alloy insert like you can ceramic with the brightness of the one on my Tuna, for example.
Just take your time, and you should have a successful result - I was desperately trying to figure out a way of getting the original ceramic insert out, in the end it was really very easy, took longer to get the old adhesive off the bezel in the end!
@CountZero The reason the bezel insert is misaligned is because it's a Seiko. It's a new watch. I could perhaps see about going to Seiko under warranty. However, from reading around what they consider as acceptable alignment has huge tolerances
Does anyone know if the costs of purchasing from Creation watches is likely to have gone up? It was outside of the EU anyway but not sure what all the new rules etc are?
I used the Royal Mail option and my Creation Watches order shipped from a UK address. There was no duty to pay. I was prepared to pay the duty if it was applicable though
neilnevill
Free Member
Anybody else think Zenith have made a stunning watch for once with the chronometer sport? White dial version, stunning.Posted 16 hours ago
I don't like it when it's just a product shot. It's all a bit busy with the different coloured subdials, the badly positioned date etc but when you see it on the wrist it looks really good. I'd like it more of it was a bit bigger I think but again, seeing it in the flesh might be different.
I like the colour sub dials, not gawdy but a bit of interest.
Anyone else struggling with the watch love at the moment?
I've got a reasonable selection available to me and had eyes on a couple more, but right now they're just not being worn.
I tend to wear different watches for different occasions and as the only thing I do now is sit in the home office (G-Shock that is my "home" watch) and run (Forerunner 645) most haven't been worn on months.
Bit of a shame really.
Not struggling but I have settled on wearing the Pantor most of the time as it's just so comfy with my Instinct used for sleep tracking and being out with the dog or whatever.
I've got a couple I might get rid of which I no longer wear just to free up some space and help justify a new addition. They're not worth loads so no incentive to sell though really - just a Timex and a basic G-Shock.
Ordered before Brexit and arrived after!
Looks like it got it's Royal Mail tracking number on 29th December
Cheers for that. Sounds like you just squeezed through.
I'm after an orient if anyone knows a decent UK distributor?
Otherwise, the watch is only £170 on creation so shouldn't get stung with too many fees?
Anyone else struggling with the watch love at the moment?
I've only got three pretty basic watches, two of which are quartz but have just gone back to my Seiko Sarb017 Alpinist after a few months of not wearing it and it's just such a nice watch!
There's aren't many places doing Orient in the UK, which model are you after?
Anyone able to help on this one - I've a Seiko Solar Divers 200 - hadn't worn it in while so had the battery changed but it has just stopped working altogether - like it as a watch so want to see if there's anything I can do to fix - any solutions ?
Has it had enough light to stay charged? Maybe stick it in a bright light for a few hours and see if that does anything?
Tried that - left it in the window for a few days but no change - also wore it for a few days as well to see if that worked but again, no joy
I guess options are pay someone like these guys £107 for full service and repair, or buy a cheap (probably non-solar) movement and do some fettling yourself.
If its a solar, might the dial be an integral part of the mechanism? Swapping the movement may not be so straightforward.
Very good point. I'd pay for the repair if fond of it.
I'll check them out - it's an SNE245 Solar Air Diver, so repair may be as much as the watch is worth.
Thanks for the help.
Tried that – left it in the window for a few days but no change – also wore it for a few days as well to see if that worked but again, no joy
You get remarkable little solar energy through a pane of glass, or when a watch is worn on your wrist. There’s tables you can Google (or watch instruction booklets usually quite the variation in charging times).
If your watch is truly empty is could take days even weeks to come back indoors especially in the Winter light - stick it outside which will pretty much speed up the solar absorption may times - for a couple of days.
I let a new gshock go flat last year which took three days outside in direct sunlight during the heatwave to get to full capacity.
A friend had a similar issue with a solar Seiko, he replaced the capacitor which fixed it. How handy are you with a soldering iron?
Thanks, Kelvin - I'll try the outside option first
@Umo - where would you get the right capacitor ?
From a quick Google looks like a V158 movement which needs one of these. Might not work, but might be worth a try.
99% of the time with a dead solar watch, it's the capacitor.
I got a nice blue Orient Kamasu in September last year from TUS watches. UK company with fast delivery. I can recommend them. I got the rubber strap version but upgraded the strap to a blue waffle strap (I think its called) and very pleased. Gains about 4 seconds a day on average which I think is quite good.
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Cheers for that. Sounds like you just squeezed through.
I'm not convinced being on the other side of Brexit would have made any difference. It shipped from a UK address on UK Postage.
Regarding @dmorts original query about alloy bezel inserts, I’ve just taken some photos of the three watches I own with alloy inserts, trying to get as close-up as I can, to show the wear and tear, the first one is just over fifty years old, the second one thirty-seven, and the bottom one twelve years old, all three have had significant wear over the years I’ve owned them.
99% of the time with a dead solar watch, it’s the capacitor.
I was going to post something similar, having just read about the problem. I don’t own a solar watch, but I’ve read forum threads about issues with them failing, and it’s the capacitor that always seems to be the culprit.
Eddie opens up tomorrow, 2pm....New website and 2nd run of new 200 in and that's it folks system. I have had several Solar Seiko and Citizen. All have been faultless if allowed to have daylight by a window every month or so for a day. The only way to ruin a solar is 6 months plus in a drawer, so hard to do, but neglect will kill. Even harder with the better solar watches that go into hibernation after 2 days of darkness and then awaken by a frenzy of hand spinning to the second - sorry Citizen landmaster - I promise not to put you in that dark drawer again.....
Eddies Top grade Selita 200 Navigator series keeps better time than an Omega coaxial 8500 for 1/10th cost. I have replaced Capacitors in Seiko Kinetic watches that die after 8+ years and it's a faff, that can be easily messed up. Their are folks who do this professionally as a small side line - use them.
I do firmly believe howver that Solar will eventually rule them all. Citizen/Seiko have this nailed. Why buy a 200m watch to open it after 3 years? or have to regulate it?
I do firmly believe howver that Solar will eventually rule them all. Citizen/Seiko have this nailed. Why buy a 200m watch to open it after 3 years? or have to regulate it?
Why indeed. Apart from the fact that electronics can die, and replacement parts become almost impossible to find, whereas a fully mechanical watch will go for years without needing to be touched - if it needs adjusting, so be it, it’s not too difficult to take the case back off and tweak it, I did it with the SPORK above, but really, adjusting the time once every month or two is hardly a chore, takes about thirty seconds or so.