Jam - it was just about surfable (I was at a stag do and camping at Watergate!) but not worth driving far for. I'd say 2ft and a bit messy. Fine if you were already there (I was busy drinking too many beers) I guess. Checked it many many times before deciding to leave it!
Hitman - uncrowded waves? Please explain your foreign terms...
TBH, the best sessions are when MSW miss a swell (very often) and so the crowds don't turn up. Had Porthtowan utterly firing a number of times during "school days" when the forecast has been lame. A fortnight ago (Monday) was an example - head high barrelling loveliness and hardly anyone out - very rare but very lovely.Any of you surf(ed) Leven? Had a go last May and utterly loved it. Again it was pretty uncrowded but that was just sheer luck and an early start.
Well it was very uncrowded back then with me initially surfing many waves on my own in the Scarborough area, before realising that there were a handful of surfers in the area. Back then the suits were not so good and the extreme cold water temp kept everyone but the committed out of the water. When I hooked up with an old college friend, I got to meet the core Whitby crew and pioneers of a certain still semi-secret reef spot which they'd surfed for 9 months on their own. This was only a couple of years before, so when I was there only a few knew it existed and its location - happy days:) The whitby boys really looked after me and I would stay the weekend with them and surf all weekend, plus waves further north, Thurso, Sandside, Melvick, Brimms Ness etc.
As far as Leven is concerned I surfed it back in 87/88 and enjoyed it although there were a few back in the water even then, although no problem getting waves. Surfed many secret & semi-secret spots in Cornwall and Devon back then, as I had time on my hands and would go surfing pretty much every day 🙂
Hitman - I've been surfing "properly" (i.e. not on holiday) since I moved down to Polzeath aged 14 twenty years ago - my first wetsuit was a £40 Gul and was dreadful yet we put up with it then. The Winter was always pretty quiet but even in the Summer it wasn't too bad if you knew where to look. Still some spots that never get busy but all hard work to get to.
Like you I was at school then college then Uni all by surf breaks so basically surfed every day there were waves and went to Swansea Uni for the reefs - and often surfed several times a day in school/uni holidays. Not so easy now but still get in a fair bit!
Never surfed Thurso - I will soon though. It's on my "places to surf before I'm 40" list... Six years left.
Kaikoura was pretty special - three RH points usually with no one else in and snow capped mountains as a backdrop. Spent a month there - loved it.
surf mat, make sure you keep surfing - I stopped for two years due to injury recently and its the worst thing I could have done. Now back in the gym training my shoulder despite needing an op which I now doubt I will ever have (long story!). Setting my sights on a go out in the next 2 weeks but will really return next winter unless a summer trip, probably to Indo comes off...
Scotland is great, I really loved it up there. It was cold although it wasn't close to what the north-east coast is like, and we had really good surf. It gets big up there as well and we were turning up at beaches/reefs and surfing on our own...
What's up with your shoulder? Mine has dislocated around 30 times, several of them when surfing. I've physio'd the hell out of it (was given the choice of that or surgery) and it's now almost 100% okay. I'm still cautious duck diving anything really heavy - can look a bit lame but if I get spun or shaken too much underwater, it's back to square one again.
Just worth checking out all the options.
Had Indo planned for after our Oz/NZ tour but the flipping East Timor war flared up - so came home and drove to the Alps for a month instead (in 2000). A real shame!
ah and i spent a 'dull as dishwater' week in a freezing cold rainy kaikoura, couldn't wait to get out of the place.
Had Indo planned for after our Oz/NZ tour but the flipping East Timor war flared up - so came home and drove to the Alps for a month instead (in 2000). A real shame!
That is a shame - best place I've ever surfed. This will be my 6th trip if I make it out there in the summer and although its changing out there in terms of crowds you can still get it good with only a few out. Went through East Timor in 98' which was a bit hairy (including a guy being pulled off our twin prop plane at gun point by the military just b4 take off) but worth it 🙂
my business partner goes out to indo every year, he rates it as the best place ever but scary at times when the swell is increasing and the reef gets shallower, he's got a few scars from being schooled across the reefs!
too big out there for this kook though!!
for what its worth another one here in cornwall who surfs (also just started kitesurfing for the windy onshore days - awesome entertainment that!). i'm down in west penwith so both coasts close on hand to play with, plus a load of moorland and other varied stuff to ride.
my business partner goes out to indo every year, he rates it as the best place ever but scary at times when the swell is increasing and the reef gets shallower, he's got a few scars from being schooled across the reefs!
too big out there for this kook though!!
Indo teaches you that (almost) everyone has their limits!!
TBH some of the NZ reefs were pretty hardcore and perfect. Still rate Portugal (Ericeira area) VERY highly too - been there twice. And of course SW France gets pretty epic.
We were gutted at the time not being able to go to Indo but TBH, I've scored good waves all over the place without going quite so far. Also got a little one now so long trips are out of the question for a while.
Sliced my arm open on a Gower reef, bust my hand on a Cornwall one, etc - all fun but a few scars (including a big one on my face) to show for it all. Also nearly drowned twice. Definitely been taught my limits a few times!!
Good to see a few others surfers here - and also good that you are all non BSing kooks (the internet seems to be full of them) too! I used to rep for Rip Curl - that was handy for kit even if their wetsuits aren't all that great.
Been an Xcel man for years now.
even if their wetsuits aren't all that great
i'm curious, who do you rate then? i've worn rc suits since the 80's and absolutely love them. fragile on the seams admittedly, but the flex, esp on the chest zip winter suits, is stunning.
Gav - I repped for them when Elastos came out. I got three Ultimates and they were super flexi but simply not warm enough and lasted no time at all. The Billabong Furnace (this is early 2002ish) I had before was far warmer than the 5/3 Ultimate.
I still have a long arm short leg 2mm Elasto which is hanging in there for warm days.
Also know many people with more recent E and F bombs - yes they are pretty warm but loads have had issues. I know a few shop owners who just won't stock them any more.
So it's Xcel all the way for me - and has been for the last 5 years or so. SO warm, flexi and last really well - got a 5/3 Infiniti X Zip and a 3/2 Infiniti X Zip - both are just amazing. As are their boots. I can't see RC getting near them. I like O'Neils but they seem to be made for the ganglier surfer.
Last couple of suits of mine have been Ripcurl Classics. Great for me at the time as I was on quite a small budget. They fit well and I was able to have good long sessions in the water.
However I changed to C-Skins for my last suit and the difference is just immense. Not knocking Ripcurl in any way but for me the C-Skins is just a step above. Super warm, super flexy and very very comfortable indeed.
My Xcel Infiniti gloves are really nice too....toasty warm for that cold NE sea 😀
Had some swell here on and off for the last few days, but Ive been too busy to head in for a surf. Off to Plymouth next Thursday for a couple of weeks so hoping to get in at Fistral for a quick session or two.
C Skins are very good if you don't want to go a bit mad on price - I have their gloves - they work well.
Alder are also a good value/budget (more so than C Skins) option too.
Had one of the older Alder 6/4s back in the day. Was the second suit I ever got, the first being a Frontline Killer 5/4.
Really liked the Alder, but it wasnt very flexible. Lasted very well though, 3 years IIRC
I like O'Neils but they seem to be made for the ganglier surfer.
Oddly enough, I'm 6'5" and love the fit of my two O'Neill Mutant suits. My 5'11" wife has bought two new O'neill suits this month too.
TBH some of the NZ reefs were pretty hardcore and perfect. Still rate Portugal (Ericeira area) VERY highly too - been there twice. And of course SW France gets pretty epic.We were gutted at the time not being able to go to Indo but TBH, I've scored good waves all over the place without going quite so far. Also got a little one now so long trips are out of the question for a while.
Funny you should say that but the year you missed out on Indo (2000) I went to Portugal for the first time- for some reason I had never been there b4. First time closer to home for a while and had a great time - very cheap charter flight to Faro, with rucksac, board tent sleeping bag etc. Got a hire car at the airport and drove up to Lisbon on my own and worked my way up the coast from there - great trip and the locals were superb, very friendly and welcoming and it was so cheap!! Waves were good but not as big as I know they can be...
And of course SW France gets pretty epic.
Probably the best beach break in the world when its really working, had so many great summers in France and Northern Spain......:)
Re:wetsuits I bought my first ever super stretchy wetsuit on that trip and have beeen a RC Ultimate fan since, but in the market for a new suit next winter so good to hear your comments
xcel infiniti here for the winter and c skins summer/spring suit
both ace, am a convert to xcel from now onfor winter suits.
Hitman - depends a bit on your shape but if you fit Xcels, get one (or two) without question - massively superior flex, durability and warmth to anything else. I kill wetsuits quickly but my last Winter Infinti lasted three years, my last Summer one more than two (usually only get one Summer out of them).
They seem to be made for the slightly broader surfer though - tall and skinny won't fit too well - O'Neils are the choice then.
If on a bit of a budget then C Skins or Alder. Snugg are raved about but they just don't seem to keep up with their technology enough.
That first pic I posted (the floater) is in zero degrees with a frozen beach and a force 4 NEerly wind. Everyone else had hoods on (I hate them) yet I stayed in for an hour and a half and only got cold when I changed. I don't reckon any other wetsuit could do that!
Snugg are raved about but they just don't seem to keep up with their technology enough.
fit and quality of construction is more important to me that the latest, greatest innovation. how many of those innovations have actually endured?
my winter suit is nearly ten years old, looks as good as new and works a treat. its a 4/3 and with a vest for the coldest days does me fine all winter...
Jam - of course fit is vital but wetsuits (with the odd step backwards) just get better and better IMO. Flexier neoprene, better seams, warmer, better zips.
So if a wetsuit fits perfectly AND is made of the best materials, I'm all for it. Trust me, my Xcel is far warmer than any other suit I've had (now on my 2nd Winter and Summer Infiniti) and the Summer one is so flexi that it often feels like I've forgotten to put it on.
Compare this to "high end" wetsuits of 15 years ago and there's just no comparison.
Maybe, but an off the peg top end excel is the same price as a custom fitted snugg. I'm sure the excels are great but I'm sticking with snugg.
And I get to choose the colour....
faint heart never f~cked a pig...!!! as my old fitter used to tell me...
Your old fitter told me you're that bloke who ****s and eats it.
Jam - yep they are but a Medium Xcel fits me perfectly (as well as custom made suits I've had) so that's handy. If they don't fit, Snuggs are fine. But I bet an Xcel is flexier 😉
so, looks like there may just be a little wave up wales way in the next week - bring on the after work surfs I say.
Talking of battle scars, heres one from a boat trip to the Maldives central attols. Two weeks, fun(but not very big) surf and no other surfers or tourists spotted for 2 whole weeks!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pedro75/2487735944/in/set-72157604641548030/
OUCH! That looks like some mad tribal warpaint or something!
Had similar when a fin sliced my face open - my wife fainted when she saw it!
Yep - waves on the way. At ****ing last!!
Hey surfing-type-stw-ers
I've managed to miss this thread but can now justifiably join you as a proper surfer 😉 Moved out to Newcastle in NSW about 4 months ago and have been surfing at least once a week since I got here. I'm a bit big for this lark - 6'4" and 16 Stone so have gone for a big mini-mal 8'6"x23"x3" which I still can't turn but enjoy falling off on a regular basis. The thing that's going to upset you most is probably the fact that i'm surfing in a spring suit in Aussie winter and i'm a bit too hot - the water temp is usually higher than the air temp out here! If any of you are in NSW and fancy a diversion on the way to the major surf areas, give Newcastle a try and give me a shout. I really am not missing central Scotland 🙂
Hey Hugo - had some good waves in Newcastle when we were in Oz - Enjoy!
bintangman, which company did you go to the Maldives with, how much was it and would you recommend them??
Be careful though - my cousin did a boat trip there (Maldives) and scored only one day (out of two weeks) of reasonable surf. £3500 - ouch
I went with Maldive Surf - its run by Antony Colas, the guy behind the Stormrider Guides - there a bit on the central atolls in their most recent book. we went in April, which is a bit between seasons, but we got waves every day, but biggest was probably about 5ft. We ended up at Yin Yangs, which is picks up any swell going, and loads more than the Northern atolls round Male - it was flat at Lohis and Cokes when we were at Yin Yangs. And we didn't see any other surfers the whole time.....
It worked out about euro120 a day, so with the exchange rate it was ok. Total was about £1700 including flights I think - the boat wasn't particularly plush, and you can certainly pay a lot more.
Its a lot closer in flight time than Indo, so works well for a week or 10 days. Theres some pictures of the waves on the flickr link below. Had some really fun surfs in what looked like a swimming pool in head high perfection. Good times.
The waves aren't like the Mentawis - reef is a lot flatter and it isn't so powerful, but to be honest, it suited me. A group of friends went to the Mentawis on the Indies Trader II and I'm glad I passed on it to be honest - to be surfing Lances etc I'd need to be surfing more than twice a month!
There are some new hotels springing up in the central and southern atolls and friends have taken their other halfs out there and scored empty perfection with no one else out. But don't tell anyone!!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pedro75/2487744034/in/set-72157604641548030/
Ooooh that flikr pic is VERY nice indeed!!
a case of get up at 7, go for a surf, back for breakfast on the deck, surf again for 2hrs, lunch of freshly caught fish, another 2 hr surf followed by dinner with a couple of cold ones watching the sunset. S**t it was good! And we had two professional photographers on board just to top it off.
that does look pretty nice. its hard to get excited about a 3ft english beachbreak when you see things like that...
Hey Jam - it's not all bad - all local Cornish breaks and taken by a spaz photographer - me:
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Yes I did get in every time (often take a snap before a surf if it's firing)
yeah I know. but a proper job that means I can't just drop everything and go means those days are few and far between for me....
and there are three million others there too...
i wish it was good today...can't seem to get any motivation for a ride this morning, a bit hungover and wet so DH doesn't appeal, it may well be a wet xc pootle around the moor/cann woods for a few hours.
this is where my big brother lives
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Jam - indeed - where are you BTW? We're near Truro. Not as handy as when we lived right by the North coast but only 15-20 mins to PT. A baby boy and a company to run does mean options are limited but still get in a fair bit. Missed some good waves early yesterday (was on son patrol!) by the sounds of it - doh!
You can score the above beaches fairly uncrowded but it usually means a dawnie or surfing on a "school day."
Anag - had come cracking waves there but I found Kaikoura even better - partly because I prefer rights.
Waves yesterday? There's been knack all worth getting wet for up here (North Pembrokeshire) for what seems like ages now. Still dry tails.
Did you used to post on MSW Mat?
Live in tavistock so 35 mins to the north coast on a good day, work in totnes so 20mins down to the south coast after work.
Des was calling it good yesterday am but none of the cams seemed to show it, a bit sceptical of his reports sometimes. I know connies pull in more swell than anywhere else but some of his reports are over egged.
Headed out to Stockton this morning (other side of the Hunter river from Newcastle) for our 8am surf to be greeted by 6 foot plus close outs that were hammering the beach. Haven't had a decent surf for three weeks because we have too much swell coming in from the pacific!!! Don't complain about 3' english surf - at least you can get a ride without risking snapping your board in half 🙁
Ironically it was after that trip to the Maldives that I got more into my riding - the lure of 2-3ft Rest Bay didn't have the same appeal, so been riding more and more since...
Looking at those Cornish pictures could change my mind though!
